bomb420

Ha thx dude... Its a 1/4" shaft just like the original articulating bracket.

The coment on the websight comes from the fact that the Newton Ringsight comes in a 6mm post version. Some people using the Newton may have an 6mm shaft to 6mm eyesight post swivel clamp that this will not work with. A new swivel clamp can be purchased in this case that converts the 6mm to 1/4. See L1366 on Paragear's website SCHUMACHER 1/4" X 6MM SWIVEL CLAMP. Some other folks do sell them....

On L&B's site, the makers of the Newton Rignsight, it appears they are now using an anodized aluminum housing like Brent's. The older ones used to be a gray plastic.

Anyone seen any other variations? Your best bet is to find someone with a pair of calipers and just measure the shaft

-Trunk

I just got a few samples in tonight. Check the pics! They are super sweet!

I think they will work well for a universal tandem workhorse/recreational camera helmet. Use your eyesight when you are flying outside camera. Then simply take it off if you want to fly with your buds. Its a little bigger than the original one but nothing drastic. I took some comparison shots. He did a really nice job of making the corners smooth to resist snagging. There is a well placed thumbscrew that locks the sight in place.

I've seen a few prototypes flying around at Skydive Az but its now finally released!

I'm not the best at macro photography, but you'll get the point...

I used to have a shaking problem caused by too big wings and well really not arching good enough. Ended up flying the wings as the CG and not my body. It was really caused being a Freeflier trying to learn to belly fly with wings... yeah I was mess'd up It was not until I think Ash White mentioned to me the too big wings idea that I realized what I was doing. In the end I think too much uneven drag becomes hard to control and may cause shake especially when looking down.

Just an idea, from experience...

My only thoughts are:
1) You have moisture in the switch, use an air compresssor and try blowing it out. The switch is not sealed and prone to this.
2) The switch contacts are boinked and it needs to be replaced. Find your closest Electrical engineering friend.
3) You got some metal filings in the assembly itself. The housing doesn't take much to pop off and then glue back together, just be careful not to crack it. Try the compressor trick first.

Finally, you can just have a bad cameye. There is a trick to allow the same switch to turn on the camera and control the recording and standby. There are a few components that if bad/ not soldered correctly/ missing can cause this. Try all the above first or contact the manufacturer. (Or just start by snipping off the switch )

Of course what do I know... and why would I know

Do you happen to wear wings? Are they perhaps too big for you?

Quote

Thats my point, If you can shoot sucessfully without the wide angle, your probably ready to transition to using it for what its for.

Exactly, think it will be a really great exercise on perfectly framing, centering, and composing your shots.

Here's a balloon one I did this weekend without a wide angle. The skydiving part starts around 1:13. Don't mind the quick edit. Still have a ways to go...you tube

I have not seen a lot of discussion about this but I want to get people's take on shooting without a wide angle. I've finally taken off my .43 this weekend, backed up some and really like the results. Of course this is for flying outside video, but I really think it looks a lot better. Oh and its so less forgiving, but do think its managable.

What's your opinion?

I've openned a PC120bt case a bunch of times. The only thing it will allow you to do is insert a needle from the back side pushing the pin out. Its a pain in the butt, but can be done. You pretty much have to take apart the whole camera to get to the lanc, video mic module. Oh and that flash charge cap sent me across the room once, be careful. I would place a long strip of masking tape on your clean workarea and describe where each set of screw comes from.

Like stated it comes apart in halves. Some significant notes I can remember. You have to disconnect the lcd module from the access point underneath the battery, just pull. There are about 5 FPC connectors that need to be disconnected from the controller PCB. They pretty much fall back into place when u need to reconnect. they are taped together, you can just pull that off for the time being. the Bluetooth antenna white cable just pulls off. Carefully fish it through as to not get shocked by the flash cap. these are the main details I can remember...

Just a few pics from Chicks rock.

Its so much easier when you hold your subject in place (johnny.jpg)

The Hybrids was a really neat attempt to stack two hybrids on top of each other and then have outside stingers... soon....

Cheap and easy, Why don't you just skip the goldmember and bolt it directly onto the top of your optic? The fiberglass is really not that thick and I'm sure you can grab a bolt that fits through the helmet and properly thread into the mount. Contact cement some rubber on the top so it stays steady. Don't over tighten.

As far as a remote switch, skip that too, just press the button in freefall. Good training for when your remote switch breaks or you forget to plug it in. But really teaches you how to fly good (super hard to get good shots this way, think we've all tried)

The pc120bt has a closed 2.5mm connector. You are better off with stratos or DSE's method. (plus you don't want a conductive pin floating around your camera) Use the force :-) oh and stop doing that!

:-D

... and more to realize you do not necessarily need to do a hook right then and there, or one at all. I noticed when I first used the optima I felt really anxious when it went off, much like when your ditter goes off around pull time. Took me some time to "unlearn" that pavlo dog syndrom... anyone else?

Nice job in all your published pictures this month! I mean....

I just met with Schumacher and attempted to get every replaceable part for his lineup. I also posted McMaster-Carr part numbers and descriptions of all his nuts and bolts included in his skydiving products. Of course you can order from me, but most are available from your local hardware store.

Check it: http://www.gethypoxic.com/ringsight.php

Blue Ones,
-Trunk

HYPOXIC

Contact Jerry Li at jerry (at) mail.embroidery.com.tw

He does them extremely cheap and they get done relatively fast. Just send him a jpg of what you need, with thread color description and all that other stuff you mentioned. Got mine in 3-4 weeks and I believe they were around 63 cents a piece. Oh and they look dope.

-Trunk

Wow dude, looks like you spent some considerable time working on all this. Looking good!
Very minor suggestions:

1) Cover up those bolts inside the box with something squishy. Give it a few jumps and your camera will get seriously scuffed up.

2) Take out some more material for the lanc to fit properly. Connectors in general do not like to be squished and constantly forced like that. I've seen both CamEyes and HyPeyes fail prematurely because they are in that configuration. Some day, you'll be running fast to get on a load and it doesn't quite fit right and u force it in, just weakens it after awhile... Take it with a grain, just seen it a bunch.

looking good though... my 2 cents. Hell, this weekend more than paid for your camera helmet supplies!!!

The Hypeye Mini is only around 1/4inch wide. None-the-less, if anyone wants to buy the cable and solder it onto the Hypeye directly, we can provide him or her with a kit and instructions. Of course we highly recommend good soldering skills.

Just send an email asking for the Pro Installer Kit if you are interested.

Thx
-Trunk

Firewire and USB can be done its a matter of the price. Would people be willing to pay +$200 for an indicator on a $400 camera. Making niche electronics is extremely expensive and the economics may not be there. IMHO, the connector is one of the biggest road blocks. Both firewire and USB will not hold up to the stress skydiving will place upon them. You yank the camera out wrong once, and you can no longer download your video to the pc.

With that said both options are still being researched.

-Trunk

It was an amazing experience. Amy thank you so much for organizing it! Working on improving my belly skills for the next grand scheme

"Red Rover Red Rover, let Trunk come over..."
(after attempting to dock with my gut!)

Be on the look out for some killer stills!

Blue Ones,
-Trunk

It is possible but it takes some serious experience with disassembling ultra compact electronics. In the end you also need to be able to solder. Be forewarned that on PC style cameras you basically have to take the whole camera apart to get to the LANC connector. I fixed a PC110 a few weeks ago and needed to go so far as disconnecting the lens assembly. Pretty sure it was a 110? Anyway…

Every one has a technique with these kind of things but mine is to place some tape on a desk and label where a set of screws comes from. The PCs generally come apart in two halves. The ones I’ve seen the tape loader side comes off first and then that gives you access to get the screws out of the other side. In the end you are trying to get to the LANC connector. You’ll have to remove a few FPC connectors to get to the lanc. Some flip up and some are just pressure. Just make sure they are all seated properly when reassembling or something will not work!!!!

SPEAKING OF WHICH::::: If your camera has a flash be extremely careful!!!! You will probably get zapped and it’ll hurt really bad (legal: or kill you) Stay away from the capacitor and things that look like it connects to.

The few I’ve seen, a trace from the LANC connector to the circuit gets cut. The traces on the PCB are really narrow and by inserting the LANC over and over it puts a lot of stress on the thin PCB and the trace eventually cracks. You can ohm out between the pin on the connector and the circuit the trace goes to. Generally it’s the one furthest away from the connector itself; this is the one under the most stress. Get some rework ~30gauge wire and just bridge the crack trace (soldering it in place that is as short as possible). Put a dollop of nail polish or crazy glue on the wire to ensure doesn't move.

Reassemble going backwards through your process of disassembling it. (from car manuals)

Be careful, know your own skills, and use the right tools. Worst case; send it away to get repaired. Hell maybe I should start doing it

Sounds like a FPC cable (those flat clear cables) was not properly reinserted. Unfortunately to get to the LANC connector you must pretty much disconnect most of the PCBs (printed circuit boards) on the camera itself. I would send it back to the repair company. A quick simple thing I would check is remove the single screw and cover underneath the battery. Ensure that connector is properly seated. Use a watch screwdriver not to muck up the screw.

Other than that, there really is not a LANC chip. What tends to happen 90% of the time is the GND lead of the PCB cracks. A little 28gauge wire bridging that tends to fix it. (Just stating this for others)

-Trunk

Happened once to me that the poleyster screws did the shining. To this day I have no idea what it snagged on, but since then I have remounted it and really removed all the excess. BTW the HyPeye cable is the only thing that saved the expensive eyesight from going bye bye.

IMHO More reason to use the polyester screws.

-Trunk

I buy all my cables on Ebay. Never had an issue:

Here's an example

There was some discussion as to putting the camera's away after dark. I got badly punked at the Rocky Point boogie a few years ago. Without a camera, what fun would it have been?

Anyone else have something along these lines?
Policia, The Movie! (11Mbs)

-Trunk