Shredex

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Posts posted by Shredex


  1. I injured my ankle on a low turn Feburary of 2014.
    Got a couple xray's, doc said It wasn't broken and should be 100% in a few months.
    it healed up and would only bother me if I was on my feet for really extended periods of time.
    But, as of 3 weeks ago, it's been aching anytime I try to walk on it.
    It's weird because if I deal with the pain and walk about 5 steps with it, the pain goes away and I can walk normal for the time being. But once I rest and get back on it, then it hurts again.
    Anyone experience this? Thought it might of had something to do with the hurricane and low-pressure BS but the storm is gone and the pain is not.

    I'm too poor to afford a Doc right now. Cost me $1000 just to have 2 damn x-rays done and they didn't even clean the dirt out of the "road"rash....So I'd figure I'd ask here first if someone else has dealt with this.

  2. JerryBaumchen



    No absolute answer. What are you using them in?



    Practice 2-pin rig I made to hold my spare canopy.

    I'll use whatever grommets work(spur) that don't rust lol

    I just don't want to destroy the die set I got on this practice one. Would rather use it(with SS) on the real one I plan to make down the road.

  3. JerryBaumchen


    Best of luck with it,



    Hope it works! lol Just need it for a couple grommets so not worth the $150 investment!

    councilman24


    Your failed grommet looks more like the hole was too big. 1/4" for number 0. It seems too small when you try to insert the grommet.



    I used the hole-punch that came with the grommets. It fit fine. It wasn't until I put a load on it, while closing the container, that the none-spur washer just kinda slid slowly to the one side.


    pchapman


    I thought the regular cheap dies will work fine for a Stainless Steel grommet -- when it is a little #0 one. Not for a commercial production line perhaps, but entirely usable at home.



    We'll find out in a week once my order arrives! :P

  4. JerryBaumchen


    Are you sure that you are using the proper setter for the type of grommets that you are wanting to set. >:(



    Yup, was a cheapo L&H grommet kit I got off amazon
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Y68Y/
    Again, was just a practice rig I made to store my extra canopy so didn't care if I used cheap parts(except when they fail lol)

    I ordered the "#1070-0 Inserting Die" just this morning from L&H directly. They said that's the one I needed for the #0 RRSW Stainless Steel grommets. Only $18.39! Same die set on Paragear is like $50!
    B|

  5. JerryBaumchen

    ...



    Thanks, man! Email sent!
    EDIT: I actually found that I can individually order them from Paragear so you don't have to do extra work and send me any, Jerry! Thanks for offering up, though!



    I tried cheaping out with the basic #0 grommets because this rig was just for practice...but those failed pretty quickly lol(See Attached)

  6. Vertical speed = Horizontal speed.
    The faster you fall the faster horizontal potential you have.

    When I first started tracking I was going after max time, but you sacrifice forward speeds when doing this.

    In my normal jumpsuit(tonysuit spacesuit) I've gotten 84 seconds from 13,700, deploying at 2,780 holding an average fall rate of 83mph.
    Slowest avg fall rate I've obtained on this suit was 80mph, and slowest speed seen was 65mph on a dive with flare out.

    Best time with a tracking suit:
    118 seconds from 13,100, deploying at 2,000.
    Avg speed of 63mph, min of 59mph, and max of 71mph.
    Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ExlIwbHxTiY
    I was going for max time, But because of this, I wasn't going very fast horizontally. The distance I covered was roughly 2 miles which means my horizontal speed was only around 50-60mph.

    I only had the tracking suit for 10 or so jumps so didn't get a chance to try a dive and flare.

    Learn to track steep. I went and did several solo angle tracking dives just to get comfortable with flying at such a high AoA/speed.

    Also for reference I'm 5'9"(175cm) 130lbs(58kg)

  7. Jumped my PD 9-cell 170(f111) for awhile and I would always get "nice" 300' openings. They never really "slammed" me...though I did roll the nose every time. They were fast but not unpleasant.
    Bare in mind that you got an f111 canopy for low quick openings on big-ways, then remember to not load it over 1:1.
    I wouldn't recommend loading f111 more then 0:8 to be honest.

    Now I jump a sabre 1 150 and get beautiful soft snivels :]

  8. You're absolutely right. I found that out quick after spending a few minutes in there. Giant store known for it's vast fabric and sewing supplies and the only thing I can use out of all of it are a few #18 needles lol

    Now, some more questions as I look through Paragear...
    What webbing should I use for backpack/gear bag straps?
    Which fabric for backpack/gear bags? (Para-pack Nylon Duck Fabric?)
    What is the padding called inside leg-straps?

    Thanks in advance!

  9. I bought a cone of E thread from Paragear, but stopped into Joann's again to see if I could find anything comparable while I wait for it to arrive. This is the best I could find(attached picture) I have no idea what these letters and numbers mean except the color code...

    I also took some time to practice sewing up a single pant leg of the freefly shorts im going to make so I could figure out how I am going to do the seams and if I got the sizes right. (See Attachment) Hard to see the seams on that design...I know

    Little by little...I'm finding rewinding bobbins to be the most annoying lol

    And for the machine, I can power through several layers, but I can't go really slowly through it..I have to full throttle the beast or turn it with the wheel. Not a big deal. Like I said, starter machine :]

  10. From sewing with my dual duty thread in a #14 needle last night, I'd have to agree. Not only was it struggling to fill the holes, but the thread was coming undone at the needle hole and bunching up. Kinda like skinning the thread down to a thinner size.

    I'll be getting some more needles today. I've read that a needle will last 12-20 hours of work.

  11. Got the machine today. Been playing with some seams and found the one I'd like to use on some freefly shorts I'm going to eventually make.
    Just practicing with the thread/needle it came with(unknown thread type/size and #14 needle)
    It seems to be doing a great job going through the layers of Supplex(Taslan) and Spandex. I'm wondering if I should even use the Dual Duty/#69/E thread with 110/18 needle for these shorts?
    I'll be getting the #18 needle tomorrow so I cant do some tests then. Hopefully it's not too large for the fabric...

    Attached is a picture of the seam.
    Turquoise = Spandex
    White = Taslan/Supplex

    One of the first projects I'll be doing is making a stash bag for my BASE rig. I've got ripstop nylon, but I read somewhere to use #12 needle on the stuff. But will the smaller thread hold up? Will #18 needle work on RS Nylon?

  12. In some of the earlier threads I searched before asking, councilman24 stated: "But stay away from the newer Singer 20u's and the cloans. They all seem to come from the same chinese factory, range in price from $500 to $900 new for exactly the same thing and often have quality problems. Older blue Singer 20Us were made in Japan. Those are worth buying. There are other better machines to choose from but some are hard to find used."

  13. councilman24

    Yes it will take an 18 but that machine may not be as strong as the one I used. Should be okay though.

    The viking would be better, at least I know more about it and it has the low gear, I think.



    The necchi shows samples of it sewing through 8 layers of denim. I can't seem to find information about either of them, though. Trying to see if the Necchi has a low speed...it does have a better ad then the Viking. Seems I can trust it's working order better lol