Singer Question...

[hackish 8]

Finally got my new sewing machine (251-3). It requires some lovin before it will work. First of all it's not timed so I've been trying to get that done according to the manual. I noticed that one of the thread loops was missing and the other was badly bent. Can you guess what happened when I tried to straighten it? Yep, snapped off! You can see the nub just above to the left of the tensioner.

Can anyone tell me if these steel loops are threaded or press fit? I may be able to knock the broken off piece out of the hole but not if it's threaded.

Next question, what's the second one on the left supposed to look like? It's missing and the manual doesn't show a clear pic. No problem for me to make one I just need to know what it should look like.

[Sangi 0]

Maybe you should try a tailors forum?

"Dream as you'll live forever, live as you'll die today." James Dean

[captain_stan 0]

An internet search should help you come up with an exploded view from a parts book. These are often helpful in revealing how a specific machine is assembled.

[madhatter 0]

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/251-12_13.pdf
or

http://safemanuals.com/user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/SINGER/251-12%20%40%40%20251-13-_E

or

http://parts.singerco.com/IPsvcManuals/251.pdf

A VERY MERRY UNBIRTHDAY TO YOU!!!
D.S # 125

[riggermick 6]

Quote

Finally got my new sewing machine (251-3). It requires some lovin before it will work. First of all it's not timed so I've been trying to get that done according to the manual. I noticed that one of the thread loops was missing and the other was badly bent. Can you guess what happened when I tried to straighten it? Yep, snapped off! You can see the nub just above to the left of the tensioner.

Can anyone tell me if these steel loops are threaded or press fit? I may be able to knock the broken off piece out of the hole but not if it's threaded.

Next question, what's the second one on the left supposed to look like? It's missing and the manual doesn't show a clear pic. No problem for me to make one I just need to know what it should look like.

You actually have enough thread guides and tensioners still on the machine to sew with no issues. The tension spring is the most important piece in the thread guide system and it looks to be in good shape. You will need to change the presser foot to an open foot design as the one you have is for very heavy duty sewing and will be difficult to do accurate stitching on parachute gear. Also a bobbin cover plate wouldn't go amiss. As far as thread guides go most are just pressed in and some are held in with screws perpendicular to the guide. A good cleaning is also needed, and probably some lubrication also, DO NOT use three in one oil as it will gum up after a while, use only white machine oil. It is vegatable based and will not harm nylon. Also watch those fingers, industrials can bite quite hard given the chance.

Oh, almost forgot, check the hook for burrs and a blunt tip, this will cause it to skip stitches, break thread etc. When timing, it is important to make the hooks horizontal distance from the needle as close as possible without touching the needle. Most people when they time a machine overlook this and just focus on the loop capture distance (to the side of needle eye) from the needle. Good luck with your new toy.

Mick.

[hackish 8]

Quote

Maybe you should try a tailors forum?

Your answer was not helpful in any way.

Rigger forums and sailmaker forums are normally the best as I doubt you'd find any tailors using a machine like this.

-Michael

[hackish 8]

Quote

You actually have enough thread guides and tensioners still on the machine to sew with no issues. The tension spring is the most important piece in the thread guide system and it looks to be in good shape. You will need to change the presser foot to an open foot design as the one you have is for very heavy duty sewing and will be difficult to do accurate stitching on parachute gear.

That presser foot is for doing upholstry. It does come with a variety of different feet. I just left it as-is but will definitely have to play with the assortment of parts.

Quote

Also a bobbin cover plate wouldn't go amiss. As far as thread guides go most are just pressed in and some are held in with screws perpendicular to the guide. A good cleaning is also needed, and probably some lubrication also, DO NOT use three in one oil as it will gum up after a while, use only white machine oil. It is vegatable based and will not harm nylon. Also watch those fingers, industrials can bite quite hard given the chance.

All great info. I spent my afternoon visiting a few sewing machine repair places. Nothing useful there except that I bought some oil and by accident it was exactly the stuff you suggested - white in colour and veggie based.

The comments I got were mostly like "that thing has no use in a home and belongs in a t-shirt factory" or "sorry that's an industrial machine I don't even know where you'd take that". Apparently the local sewing repair folks aren't so friendly to an old clunker like this :)

Quote

Oh, almost forgot, check the hook for burrs and a blunt tip, this will cause it to skip stitches, break thread etc. When timing, it is important to make the hooks horizontal distance from the needle as close as possible without touching the needle. Most people when they time a machine overlook this and just focus on the loop capture distance (to the side of needle eye) from the needle. Good luck with your new toy.

What impact does aligning the needle closer to the hook? Just for a more reliable pickup avoiding skipped stitches?

Since I've been saying for so long "sure I'll make that when I get a machine" I guess I'm just going to have to get this beast running!

-Michael

[skybill 19]

Hi hack,
'ya got 2 choices, leave the nub in or try to get it out. If you can find a machine parts supply place and get some really small "Easy outs" and a drill bit about 1/2 the dia of the nub you can do it. It requires a really steady hand. At SPCUSA (Sun Path Contracting in Raeford) we had a class VII machine that got the needle set screw head broke off!! I had a easy out and got the screw out. Steady hand is the word, you have to drill in the middle of the nub, if your drill goes to the threads, you're had!

SCR-2034, SCS-680

III%,
Deli-out

[hackish 8]

The holes are about 3/32 in diameter. I hope it's not threaded.

I spent about an hour trying to time this machine and I think I've given up. There is no possible way for the needle to pass near the bobbin housing. The needle either collides with part of the bobbin or the bottom of the feed dog. I've tried every orientation possible. My rigger B is really busy but I'll have to coax him over with some beer or something :) At worse I'll try to take some good photos - maybe the bobbin assembly is broken.

-Michael

[riggermick 6]

Quote

The holes are about 3/32 in diameter. I hope it's not threaded.

I spent about an hour trying to time this machine and I think I've given up. There is no possible way for the needle to pass near the bobbin housing. The needle either collides with part of the bobbin or the bottom of the feed dog. I've tried every orientation possible. My rigger B is really busy but I'll have to coax him over with some beer or something :) At worse I'll try to take some good photos - maybe the bobbin assembly is broken.

-Michael

Sounds like the needle bar may be set too low if it's coming into contact with the feed dogs. Very first thing to do is make sure the right needle is installed, if it's not then nothing will work correctly and it will be a bitch to time (your needle could be too long or even be bent slightly). Check the timing on the feed dogs, they should be coming up and moving forward as the needle bar is on it's up stroke (but only after the needle has cleared the work) Also check to see if the hook race is installed correctly. Is this machine a rotary hook or a shuttle hook? The answer to this question will help pin down the issues your having.

Mick