darkwing

Don't tip. Skydive. Become part of the gang.

Jeff

I suspect it is more like "pull the apex down a little, and get to the ground slower. Pull it down a lot, and get there faster."

I second the Strong Lopo.

I am a rigger, and I'd be much more worried about the riser at the grommet than the velcro fraying. Probably time to pony up for some new risers. Of course a rigger that can actually look at and touch them should have more say than I do.

Isn't that some Russian thing? I seem to recall seeing some video of that jump.

The Prairie. For the reasons cited above. Nothing beats the LP.

I recommend you start with whatever the manufacturer recommends. Do you have a manual?

Whatever the reason, I think it doesn't happen in the vast majority of cases.

It smells very, very, very fishy. You definitely need to do more looking. While I don't guarantee that this particular guy is a fraud, this method has been a scam routine in the past. Can you get his phone number?

Having been "certified" by a rigger in 2006 means nothing today. The repack then is out of date now. It is kind of a low risk way to enhance it market value.

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Back to this old topic! god bless search. When you are packing your sabre 2 do you roll the nose?

Back to the same old advice -- For starters, always do what the manufacturer says. And always ask them about variations. Nobody, let me repeat, nobody, has packed them more, and paid more attention to the openings than they have.

In the absence of real numbers, I'd suggest as a good first estimate that the diameter of the line scales as the square root of the ratio of the strengths, for for example, 1000 lb line compared to 500 lb line will be 1.4 times the diameter.

On a related note, since someone will care, drag scales with diameter.

I'm pretty sure that Skydive Walterboro, in SC has such traffic, but I don't jump there, and I'm not sure if any of them are dz.com types. Maybe try contacting them.

What, no heroin or crack options?

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The turn is a recent problem. The canopy is old, but the lines are newer. There's less than 100 jumps on the lineset. The turn showed up in the last few jumps. I've checked the lines and attachment points, but haven't done a complete trim-check. The lines are symmetrical side-to-side. The fabric is the older Aerodyne zero-P.
...

The turn is significant, requiring toggle to the shoulder to keep it flying straight.

_Am

You need to have it gone over carefully. I have seen such symptoms for both rib problems (e.g. a seam separation or tear) and line problems (e.g. an unsewed connection that is slipping). I agree that the port fraying is certainly not the problem.

Jeff

A single MA-1 is pretty marginal for a Jumbo PC, especially at sub-terminal. In the old days I probably would have recommended a HotDog or a Grabber, or similar pilot chute. Going to double MA-1s can work, but can cause other problems-- packing, etc. I recommend a higher drag single pilot chute. You might be able to find one, or at least one with a serviceable spring, with some olde-tyme loft. If you can find a spring it is easy to make the rest of the pilot chute. Maybe a messed up pilot chute from a modern reserve could be bought cheap and re-manufactured.

There is only one correct answer, whatever the manufacturer says to use.

People will be curious as to why these two? Is it that you have the option to buy one or the other now? SInce they are both probably used, it is reasonable to ask how many jumps on each, and the price. The Nitron is certainly a more modern design, and I'd guess would be a better overall canopy.

I would also guess Jerry Bird, maybe at the world meet, in Pretoria, 1974?

It's got to be a 23 foot triconical main from the infamous Bird system.

It depends on the user. Pretty much any helmet out there has some people who feel it is the best. Head shape and size, and other factors all go into it.

For me, because I wear glasses, I much prefer the Bonehead Havok.

It looks familiar to me. Seems I recall a guy in Boise had one like that when I started jumping there in 1973. I don't recall the name of the pattern though, although I do remember some other pattern names. I owned a "clown"

Clearly you are interested in the technical aspects of rigging, so I second the suggestions above that you get an old metal-geared sewing machine and dive in. I have a 1950-something White portable sewing machine that I bought when I first started rigging stuff in about 1974 for $30, and I still have it, and it works great. Forward, reverse, and zig-zag stitches, and you can do a lot of skydiving related sewing.

This is how you start down that long lonesome road to being a rigger. I'd recommend machine sewing with E-thread. Good time to practice some standard sewing patterns, Box-X, 3-point cross, and 4-point cross stitches...

Some "quality" work by someone with access to, but not the expertise, to use a harness machine. It probably would have worked, but it would be embarrassing to get discovered.

Easter Bunny, mk-1. For dropping eggs to troops.