IJskonijn

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Everything posted by IJskonijn

  1. The step from 0.9 to 1.2 WL is quite a significant one. I wouldn't be comfortable taking that step without at least some jumps on a 230sqft in between. Furthermore, is the PIM considered to be The Law, or merely a guideline of sorts. If it is The Law, your next canopy must be a 230. If it is a guideline, you better have some solid fact-based reasons to go beyond it. As already mentioned, everyone thinks themselves to be an above-average canopy pilot. But can you prove that you are, maybe through having followed several canopy control courses and demonstrating you can squeeze a lot more than usual out of your current canopy? Also, have a look at Brian Germain's canopy sizing chart. It has some great bits about the why of canopy sizes, and what should influence the decision (like altitude above MSL of your DZ). http://www.bigairsportz.com/pdf/bas-sizingchart.pdf In summary, with that kind of wingloading I would suggest a 230sqft. It's easier to downsize once the 230 becomes boring than it is to upsize once you're in hospital with broken legs.
  2. My personal experience with a Silhouette 190 loaded at 1.16 is that its not at all a high performance canopy. In fact, I find it to be rather docile and easily able to get me out of a tight spot. I bought that canopy as my first own canopy, and coming from a mishmash of student rental canopies (solo 210, spectre 210 and 190, etc.) it didn't feel like a big step up. I feel the suggested wingloads and skill levels by PD are very conservative, maybe even to the point of recreating the Navigator-style of flying (I have yet to find the difference between a Silhouette and a Navigator other than the sizes and the name.) It's lightly tapered, but every opening I had with it was nice and sweet. Even six turns of twists was no problem, as the canopy just picked a heading and flew straight, giving me plenty of time to get the twists out. I can't really say much about the flare. I think it has plenty, but my only real reference in that respect is a Lightning...
  3. Hah, we had a discussion a while back about what is the difference between a hobby and a sport. We settled on "if you can die while doing it, it's a sport. If you can't, it's a hobby". Loose standard, since stupid people die doing pretty much anything, but it was good enough for a saturday at 5 beers in the evening. Although I've never heard of anyone dying while collecting postage stamps...
  4. I thought the whole goal of bumpers was to prevent the grommets from being damaged by the hard links. And in todays world of slinks, I doubt that's still a relevant consideration.
  5. Total bridle length is listed on the linetrim chart, see http://www.performancedesigns.com/docs/linetrims/TC-120-230-Line-Trim-Chart.pdf. As for the loops, the top one (at the pilot chute end) needs to be large enough to fit the pilot chute through, and the bottom one (at the canopy end) needs to be large enough to fit the bridle through. I don't have exact measurements for the location of the knob that's supposed to keep the pin in place, but I would hazard a guess that anything that allows the bridle to put tension (during deployment) on the pin before the tension is on the part of the bridle between pin and canopy should be enough.
  6. And what if I cannot find them secondhand here in Europe? All that I see on eBay are shipped from the US, and I very much dislike buying new when I am not able to test it beforehand, especially if there is a big shipping fee involved as well... What new camera with external support and a fairly narrow field of view would be a good alternative? Unfortunately, a hero 4 is a tad bit on the expensive side considering my budget.
  7. My profile is filled in and up-to-date. With that out of the way, I'm not a videographer yet. I want to start doing it, and at the moment I only want to film CRW outside and occasional hop & pop exits. My freefall skills are laughable (my last jump with a delay longer than 5 seconds was half a year ago, second-to-last such jump was probably two years ago. I've made ~130 jumps in the past 12 months), so I'm not even going to try freefall video work. I already have a date with my chief instructor lined up to chat about cameras and safety and whatever's related, plus I've been talking to an experienced CRW videographer (and plan to talk to more such people). I have recently bought a helmet (cookie MXV) that includes a chincup, cutaway system, ringsight (which I'll remove until I have decided I need it for real) and some mounting spots already drilled. So before I can start, I just have to find a camera. Hence this thread. What video camera would you recommend for a starting videographer (budget ~€300) that should be good enough to film outside CRW formations with? Ideally, I want some form of external control and/or indication (hypeye or the like) to attach to it. So related to that, since Sony removed their AV/R protocol from newer versions of their cameras, what are my options for buying a new camcorder that includes the ability to attach indication leds to it? I've also been thinking that I might want a camera with a fairly narrow angle lens, to allow me to keep my distance from a formation (and its burble) while still having it nicely fill the field of view. Any experienced CRW videographers want to share their opinion/experience in this regard? Plus, of course, any more advice is very welcome. I've already trawled the forums about lots of different aspects, but couldn't find a recent thread about this specific subject.
  8. Correct, it would take quite some time for the unit to cool that much. And my interpretation of the manual is that they guarantee correct operation of the unit down to -25°C. But not guaranteeing that it works below is very different from guaranteeing that it does not work below. There's usually a significant safety margin in the design of electrical components like these. You could put a small thermocouple sensor in there to record the temperature during the next jump. I'm not a rigger, so talk with someone who is about the best way to do so without messing up anything vital.
  9. Just speculating, but it could be a battery-related error. The manual states: "The battery pack is designed to operate within a temperature range from -13°F to +158°F (-25°C to +70°C)." If the external temperature around your rig was -30°C for an hour, the internal temperature of the unit may have reached a temperature below -25°C.
  10. I see very few canopies that don't suffer from that problem... =)
  11. I've got my phone on a lanyard around my neck. As long as I don't wear baggy clothing it stays flat against my body, and doesn't interfere with my handles. If you still don't like the idea of having it near your handles, follow raftman's suggestion, and (have someone) sew a pocket with zipper on your jumpsuit. That should be a quick and easy addition.
  12. Yup, most interesting to attach a flag to the outside foot and attach a smoke canister to the inside foot, as done with Mr. Yellowhead. ^_^
  13. Solid strategy for ensuring your main doesn't get lost =). I got my nickname (rough english translation: ice-rabbit) during AFF 1-4. I was WAAAY too tense in the air, it took a bit of tunneltime to solve that. I may still have some residual freefall fear, because it's been at least 40-50 CRW-jumps since my last freefall jump.
  14. Count me in! Now to find the cheapest flights to Lodz...
  15. The other 4 minutes and 55 seconds should be spent telling the user to take better notice of their equipment. I see too many people who don't really care about their gear, and don't pay attention to issues that may need resolving. Anyone with more than half an eyeball and two braincells should have noticed the excess fingertrapped line sticking out during packing...
  16. How do they fit you? How's your visibility downwards (i.e. handles) with them on? If you wear glasses, can you still use those or do they cause problems? I haven't used either of those helmets, but how a helmet fits you is imoh one of the most important things. Nobody likes ill-fitting helmets that are a pain to get on or to keep from taking an alternate route back down while you're in the air.
  17. It's not just 20k for two jumps, it's 20k for an 11-day holiday, that includes two skydives. The only other thing you gotta pay is a ticket into Kathmandu, your visa and some hiking equipment. Too bad I don't have the money, because I think it would be an awesome holiday, especially if you're also into trekking/mountaineering. Hmmm, I wonder if there's ever been a CRW formation over there..?
  18. Wraps tend to happen due to a few known causes: 1. Weather: I've seen a formation wrap due to an air gremlin, which resulted in a pretty nasty cutaway (everyone walked away without more than a few small cuts though). The weather that day was iffy and a bit turbulent, with generally high winds. If you absolutely positively don't want a wrap, don't jump in that type of weather. 2. Poor formation engineering: A poorly engineered formation typically wraps because the wings outrun the centerline. So a properly engineered formation has slightly faster canopies in the centerline, and slower ones on the wings to ensure the formation bulges forward at the center. Getting this right is a matter of experience and practice. Figure out how fast people fly and put them in the right slot of the formation. Try it out and tweak as necessary. 3. Poor docking skills. If you dock the formation like a garbage truck on steroids, guess what's gonna come out... Exactly. This is down to the skills of the flyers. To minimise the chance of a wrap, they must know how to approach for a soft dock, and must know how to abort and reset if their approach looks iffy. All this can be practiced and optimized before you do a demo-jump with fireworks and stuff. Also, the firework rigs can be optimized. Get a thick steel pipe, weld it shut on on end and fix it on a properly designed harness. Now firework has only one way to go, and with a proper harness that one way is always away from you, even if the pyrotechnics inside malfunction. These type of jumps are not planned with "lets just hope nothing goes wrong" in mind. We CRWdogs do think thoroughly about the risks, how to minimize them and how to handle them should it happen. But if you plan everything for the absolute worst case, the only sensible plan is to stay on the ground. Also, if you're in the US, there's a pretty active CF scene going on over there. I think the Raw Dogs do CF-coaching mainly in the new england area, or you can join us in Florida for the Spring Fling in March 2016. In europe, we also like our CF. We occasionally have events in the Netherlands, and I know there are groups of CRWdogs in Germany and Poland active as well. Try to contact Henk Lunshof via Facebook, he might be able to help.
  19. Given the two camera's are slightly offset, my guess would be he wants a piece of that sweet sweet 3D video action.
  20. how did your stows look after the hard opening? Were lots of them broken? Even if not, it can't hurt to replace them all. If you have serious doubts as to the airworthiness of your gear, look it over together with a rigger. They know how to look to find faults which may not be noticable to you and me.
  21. Yes, but neither should there be a witch hunt. Hard proof should be provided together with putting the names out in the open. If no hard proof is available, report them to the correct people and have them investigate it. Rules should be followed (as a rule), but that goes both ways. Good care must be taken to ensure you name, shame and punish the correct person, not just someone who happened to have made a few enemies here and there.
  22. I agree with the always-carry-on thing, but I think it's smart to have your rig and ONLY your rig in that carry-on suitcase. Personally, the bare minimum I have in carry-on is rig and papers, since I can always get jumpsuits (not that I really need them as a CRW-dog), helmet and altimeters at the DZ. Some airlines allow you a second hand-bag as carry-on (usually much smaller than the suitcase). In that case, feel free to also take along things like altimeters etc on carry-on. Also, include the cypres/vigil X-ray card whenever flying. If flying into the USA, I think there's also a TSA letter on their website stating a sports rig is safe to carry on. Never hurts to print and take that along with you. Ninja edit: don't forget to put hook knives etc in your check-in luggage. The less reason security has to check out your luggage in detail, the less can go wrong.
  23. Last year at the Spring Fling (Sebastian, FL), there were also a few first-time CRW-jumpers. If I recall correctly, they were flying in a nine-way formation by sunday. Try to get into contact with either Brian Pangburn or Kirk Vanzandt for more info, although it should also be posted tot the crwdogs group. This year, it's around the end of march.
  24. Even with a radio, you aren't guaranteed to flare at the correct time. And learning to flare correctly all the time isn't done in 20 jumps either. Training your PLF (together with a correctly sized canopy) is by far the most important tool in your box to prevent you getting hurt. It's much better to do a PLF and think afterwards: "that wasn't really necessary", than the other way around. So practice it ad nauseam and beyond. It's a skill you'll never regret learning to perfection. I still use it occasionally (after >450 jumps) to prevent getting f*cked on iffy landings.
  25. I jump a Lightning 160 in the same rig as my Silhouette 190. The difference is actually so small I don't even bother switching loops (easier than lengthening/shortening it every time I switch canopies). Most CRW-canopies get nowhere near as large as accuracy canopies, even though Lightnings have a reputation for packing big. In general though, if I cannot get a proper fit by adjusting my closing loop (Vector II V5, so it's attached to the reserve container bottom), I'd be very Very VERY hesitant to do it before talking it thoroughly through with my rigger.