Jacked

Today is a long way from the start of this thread and as of now I'm using the SL1 with a canon 10-20, its the older version, larger, heaver, and slower autofocus, but I don't use autofocus anyway... Canon has a newer version that is shorter, lighter, and has image stabilization on board (not that you would use it) the autofocus is snappy aswell... I bought one and lent it to friend to jump with and he loved it so much I let him ride with it.... The Video is a gopro hero3+ on medium fov. It matches a Sony cs150 with a 5.5 lens in comparison very well... The only thing I miss with the cs150 is the image stabilization. I battle with going back to the CS all the time... GoPro has won out because of my old neck and heavy gear just don't see eye to eye these days... That setup works for formation (up to say a 15 way) and is ideal for tandem....Remember no mater how good the gopro gets for still images it is only as good as the glass it see's through. (the SLR is bound by the same rule as well) The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

I really hope you don't take that advice of those jumpers telling you to hold your head down. A straight spine will support more than any other position. I've got close to 1300 camera jumps and for a while I was getting spanked pretty good because of lines getting out of trim quickly because the root problem being line stows. Every time I tried something other than keeping my spine center of mass I got checked hard. I managed to get my openings back under control then switched canopies. I still have the spinletto in another rig for hot loading when it is a no choice situation. It still scares me to jump it even though its good to go.. No choice to be taken lightly, I always have the last say... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

You should to do the same type of write up, but for camera flyers. I have found very little in the main stream of skydiving that addresses this discipline, with any data to support it one way or another...

Any machine shop could make you one, of your lucky you might even skydive with a machinist, ask around or look in your phone book for machine shops... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

The card slot is side access but the battery is not, I machined access ports for my battery so I wouldn't have to mess with my alignment during a change out.. The New SL1 hat weighs not much more than a feather and is my new setup does have the card slot in the battery compartment located under the camera... No big deal, Already solved with previous mod.. A hack saw and file is all you need or a friendly neighborhood Machinist :) The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

Well let me apolige for the bad information on how this lkens does in the air.. Turn IS off and this lens seems to get it done. One of my videographers jumped the lens this weekend. He normally uses the canon 10 22 and I will be lucky to get it back from him. (he's bigger then me) :) He uses Auto focus in SP mode... The lens did great on the ground, I was using the IS but most likely didn't need it. I wish I could answer your question of sacrificing speed, It did very well in the air this weekend... I did shoot some video on the ground with it but the noise level in the shop was really high, you could have had tank treads rotating the AF and I would have not noticed it... The lens was well worth the money.. even if you dont need one :) The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

I have no issues guys! My pictures are sharp, everything in the skydive is SHARP. Sorry if your not able to achieve the same results.. Once again I'm not asking for advice.. Those of you that think I'm full of shit, say it and be done with it. Has no effect on my day or my product.. . And as far as googling DOF No need.. Last time I checked Most FF photographers shoot in Shutter priority which allows changes in DOF through aperture.. Its not the fact of the focal point but the results of changing aperture which has an effect... All of this is mute in manual mode. You get what you input. Not one person has even asked what my shutter speeds are set to. Which my friend does have an effect on aperture and that combined with Hyperfocal distance gives better results in a manual focus... The fraction of the depth of field which is in front of the focal plane approaches 1/2 for the closest focus distances, and decreases all the way to zero by the time the focus distance reaches the hyperfocal distance. The "1/3 rule of thumb" is correct at just one distance in between these two, but nowhere else. Focusing at infinity causes the nearest acceptably sharp objects to correspond with the hyperfocal distance. Keep in mind the movement of that little line in the focus window changes from day to day and some times throughout the day due to temperature changes we as skydivers tend to encounter, The placement marker for infinity is very large in comparison the the line of focus your matching on the barrel. Half a line can make or break you depending on where you are in the window If you want theory then theorize on the face I don't have out of focus issues instead of telling me what I'm doing has ill effects. Thats not productive and a waste of space and time... The focus ring cant be moved to a spot the autofocus moves it to? There is a way and to publicly say it's not is pretty much calling me a dumb ass or a liar in which I'm neither, but I forgive you... One more thing, The images I've been comparing were took from my fellow video guys using the same gear in AF. I thought I was specific with that? Not sure what mode of AF but sure of what I was seeing... You do realize I'm here to help and not to create tension among my fellow camera flyers. You all do this for the same reasons I do I hope... We are a minority. Doubting anyone of you is not what I would want to leave this thread with. I'm sure its a misunderstanding of sorts.. Peace The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

You know I believe that, I would very much like to host that lens in combo with the SL1... Maybe I should give it another shot.. I did give up rather quickly... I still am fond of the focus window and use it faithfully... Reviewing my photos compared with some of our guys using autofocus the most things that stands out between the two is everything in the frame on manual is in focus and not the case with the same lens in auto.. The main subject is clear as a tack but the peripherals fall out of the depth of field in some of the shots... I'll check it out some more... The lens did very well on the ground it should do well in the air... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

Well first off it was a weight issue, always trying to shed it. Second You can use AF all you want. I happen to have sharp as a tack pictures using my set up. I was not asking for advice on setting a camera up. I was just sharing what I learned... I compare my shots every weekend with my compadres and am very happy with the end results of my setups. The weight is another issue. The older I get the lighter I want my head gear.. That's just me... The lens was 300 bucks.. The reason I bought it is I wanted it... The lens shot great video through the SL1... The Disappointment was more in the having to go back to top plate with a slightly heaver set up than first perceived when I coupled the the two featherweights together... I cant believe you asked if I had 10 - 22 why did I buy that lens? That is funny... Maybe the same reasons I buy anything I don't really need... Because I can The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

I bought it and got to jump it this weekend, I normally shoot a canon 10-22 on manual focus so having a sight window for focus settings was taken for granted until now. I set it up for AF and was a little disappointed in my results. During the week I had this lens on my carry around camera and it did a really nice job just snapping and some video.. Attached to my SL1 it is a featherweight setup and I believe I need to give it a good hard look again. I let a fellow video guy try it to see what he thinks, I'll get his opinion this weekend. Mean while back with the 10-22... It also has an external focal barrel but it only moves 3/16 of an inch or so and right at the front... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

A 5/8 hole I believe, The problem with any size hole is eventually it will push through and the pressing is a bit spongy feeling because of the lack of support. I made a sheet metal backing plate approximately 3/8" (9.5mm) wide that is U shaped with two flanges to bolt to and secure the button to the underside of the top plate for a very solid fix and the actual button press is just a touch as a micro switch should be. And use soap to get the button protector through that hole, It's a bitch, and don't let it fool you into thinking it dont need support :) 9/16 hole maybe? You can measure the small part of the protector ... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

The Manufactures of the Tandem gear that your TM's hold their rating through requires min 500 jumps. If you are planning on holding a training program be sure you follow all the manufactures guidelines just for liability issues... Times have changed just in the past 5 or 6 years regarding cameras because of the POV's. Safety is paramount followed by a good quality product and anyone reading themselves to capture someones first skydive needs to have proved themselves before they hire on thats for sure. There is a lot you can teach a willing skydiver that has the right reasons for doing what they want to do and " free jumps " is not a good reason. In my experience those are the worst in any field or rating that generates money... You are heading down the right track, You have already done more than some places I know, Good on ya... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

That would really suck... I would imagine it would hinge on the DZ's editing preference. Is that why some of the DZ's are camera specific? For me the editing is an expression of the thing I love to do most. I would rather edit my own unless it gets real busy.. Then it becomes about the numbers.. More like work than fun.. If I had to work at a DZ that restricted my choice of gear I would just do AFF or Tandem most likely a lot of formation fun jumping videos :) Sorry to hear of your demize... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

I'm running the same except I run the hero 2 at 120fps for better slow motion on the exits and deployments, Most importantly making the video guy ahead of me look good leaving the plane :) The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

you forgot the image stabilization the CX above 100 offers, I have been invested in gopro video and SL1 still platform, so far I have reverted back to the Hero 2 because the 3 is undependable. (I've had turn off issues after the latest firmware update ) But there is something that nagged at me and I couldn't place it until I compared video side by side from my CX with a gopro on the same rig... It was the image stabilization, Even though it was minute, it was there... I know splitting hairs here. But for hire, I'm still lugging weight, The end result is directly connected to the effort applied