jurn

It seems the mount comes off at about 1:40 after the pilot has struggeled with the helmet buckle for 10 sec and given up...... Those plastic buckles on the chinstrap are hard to open if you put tension on them. So yes, cut-away is the way to go for camerahelmets.....

http://www.chutingstar.com/newgear_en/zkulls-hero-overkill-dual-mount.html It probably needs some modification to fit a Rawa. I think they are made to fit the Tonfly helmets. Some drilling and bending was necessary to make it fit my 2Kcomposites Fusion. Or just mount the gopro with one of those small metal mounts that you can bolt on to the forehead of your helmet.

if the gopro will get in the FOV is hard to say. Depends on what kind of lens you are planning to use on the CX. A 0,5x will be less prone to getting the gopro in it's FOV than a 0,3x. I suppose you can slide the CX as far as possible forward on the flatlock, but if its gonna be enough is only going to be based on assumptions. Looking at the helmet in a picture i would say you might get away with it by sliding the cx far forward, but then again, only assumptions until someone actually tries it.

To answer your question; yes it will probably work. You probably have to bend the metal plate that holds the gopro so it fits. Then you have to attach something behind the gopro to tilt it forward again, as the mounting plate has been bent. I have a overkill mount for my Fuzion helmet. I thought it would fit right out of the box, but that was not the case. Its probably made to fit the Tonfly helmets, as it took a lot of adjustment, bending and relocating of holes to make it fit my helmet. I would probably have been better of making my own mount from scratch...... Thats why i wonder why you want to go for the overkill mount for the bonehead helmet. Especially as the BH helmets don't come with the Zkulls system. It would probably be easier to just mount both cameras on top of the helmet with the supplied mounts, or maybe build a plate that is slightly wider then the top of the helmet to mount the cameras on if the helmet is to narrow. Just bolt it to the top of your helmet. Just my opinion. But yes, you can make the overkill mount fit, but it will require some work....

I got a 620. Great suit so far. It's a slow suit if you know how to fly slow. It gives a lot of drag on the legs and arms. I'm a pretty heavy guy, but i have no problems jumping with the skinny guys and girls at the DZ. I opted for the double cordura option on the legs and arms for the extra drag. It gives a lot of power, but makes the suit pretty warm, especially in the tunnel.

Had the same problem your describing. I tried catcrap but it didn't work for me. I found out that the problem was caused by humid air being trapped between the lenses. When the wide angle lens got cooled down by low temperatures and wind the air would condense and form a blurry ring in the picture that would gradually grow larger. The solution i use is to mount the wide angle lens inside a place with cold dry air. I usually use my fridge. I leave both parts in for about a minute, and then i mount them together while still holding them inside the fridge. Never had any problems after i started doing this. You might want to try it. It's easy and it's for free

Ok. Thanks for saving me on the GF2 then

Here i a thread about a remote shutter release on the GF1. http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3876330;search_string=gf1;guest=77514184#3876330 GF2 should be the same. My plan is to make a little harness that i can insert between the camera and my bite switch to test the concept. If it works i might modify the biteswitch.

I've jumped both the Pilot and Sabre2. They are both pretty similar as some others have commented. However i found there are some differences. I will not claim that these differences are the thruth as there can be a lot of factors affecting the canopies that i'm not taking into account (container type, line type, #jumps on the canopy, my experience level at the time, etc) Pilot: -More consistant openings than sabre2. you get the same every time. Also a bit more on heading. -Flatter glide than Sabre2 -More responsive toggles than sabre2 -Less flare than sabre2 (Pilot has a good flare, but Sabre 2 is better) -slower than sabre2 Sabre: -openings vary a lot. Twists and turns a bit during the opening sequence, and you can count on the endcells being closed..... Can open quite hard ocasionally (guess that can happen to any canopy) -Faster than a Pilot -Very good flare All in all they are quite similar canopies, and i guess you'll be happy with any one of them. For me the main differences came down to opening and flare.

Done

I'm currently looking into using micro 4/3 format cameras for jumping. At the moment i'm jmping a canon 450d with a 15mm lens, and although its not the heaviest setup, i can feel it in my neck at the end of the day. So i want to try to get a lighter setup. At the moment the best option seems to be the GF2 with a 14mm pancake lens. It seems to be the only camera that i can rig a remote trigger for with relative ease. However there is a thread in here about the GF1. The guy testing it claims it reacts very slowly. So i thought i'd just ask here before buying a useless camera. And yes i know about the guy modding the Sony NEXes for the remote shutter release. I'm considering that option as well, but the Panasonic seems lie a better option as i dont have to mess with the camera and void warranty etc.....

Recieved some pictures from JayR. Looks really nice. If i hadn't just bought a new stills camera i would consider getting a NEX.

Any chance of getting a pic of what the end product looks like?

How is the switch port hacked? I've been looking into the MFT standard cameras for a while, and looking for ways around the switch setups. What kind of lens do you use?

Ok, thanks for the reply. Might be moisture trapped inside the lens then I'll have to experiment some more with the lens itself.....