dirtbox

Currently editing for a DZ that uses a business card usb. Using a mac and premiere pro with encoder. I do all my edits, cue them all up in encoder (output both 1080 HD and a 480sd version for use with social media and images - files range between 1.1Gb and 1.9Gb). The renders can take up to 30 minutes and transfere to USB takes 2-3 minutes. Works for me, once all the editing is done for the day I wander off, have dinner, go to bed or what ever and when it is done rendering I come back and put all the products onto their USB keys and into envelopes. Real time sitting there doing the work isn't too long and I have plenty of other things to do during the rendering. Another option would be to buy 10TB of cloud space from dropbox or Google drive, which would host 5500 media packages that averaged 1.8Gb each, and only post USB to customers that specifically requested it. Host videos for ~12 months on the cloud and send each person a link same day as the edit is done.

I found formatting on the computer and adding in the original Sony files killed two brand new Sandisk cards after 7 or 8 uses each. I switched to Lexar cards and only format in camera now and I have had no issues. YMMV

get a 10mm fastex clip from your local outdoor store and some 4mm shock cord. Make two ~15cm loops and larkshead them to the two ends of the clips and to the bungee attachment points on your rig. Easy to use and make, cheap to replace. I get a couple hundred jumps out of each one. There is another thread on this

There is a degraded video link in the post, of I get access to faster internet I'll put up a high def one. Cheers Dave

There doesn't seem to be any real information on here about using the Sony A65 DSLR or the functionality of the Sony AS100VR for work jumps so I am going to roll both into one review. Over the last weekend I put 12 jumps on my new camera set up: A Sony AS100VR and Sony A65 with Sigma 10-20mm lens. Plenty of people have written reviews on the Sony AS100VR action camera and they all know more about image quality and video recording than I do but not a lot has been written (from what I have seen) about functionality/adapting it to work jumps. AS100V Settings: The first 5 jumps I played with different settings on the AS100. All videos were done on the pro-mode (XAVC S) with 1080p60fps. I played with the steady shot on and off, padding the box (some reviews suggested it was necessary) and the color settings. With the steady shot on the image had a horizontal 'shake', adding a piece of padding (business card) to the box did decrease the amount of shake but didn't 'fix' it. Stead shot off made for nice smooth footage, to my eye at least as smooth as a CX110 camera and having padding in the box made no difference so I took it out. The camera has both neutral and vivid colour settings with the vivid producing a much nicer image (in my opinion). So after playing around with it I will continue to use it on 1080p60fps vivid color and steady shot off with no padding in the box. Also worth noting is that you will need SDXC cards to use the pro-mode settings and a 1:07 freefall clip is about 435MB. A low quality copy (540p) can be viewed here https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10154461698780635&l=3359354394787768747 AS100V Getting your cards: In terms of function the camera is a bit of a pain in the ass but manageable with a bracket to invert it. You could use it without the box or use the lens protector but I'd rather try and protect the camera. The engineers must of been out to lunch the day they designed the box as they put the clips to open the door on the bottom which makes retrieving the camera from the box if mounted on a flat surface impossible. I made a bracket out of steel banding to hold the camera upside down (the cameras software allows you to invert the image) and now taking the cards out is like taking a CX110 out of a Rawa box; open the box, grab the camera, open the camera door, retrieve the card and do the opposite to put it back together. AS100V Control and batteries: For recording on the ground I just use the physical controls on the camera itself. Once in the aircraft I had to use the physical control on the camera to turn it on but then you can control it with the wrist mounted remote which shows recording card status. There is a 10 second lag between turning the camera and remote on and getting them to connect so I was turning it all on about 500ft before the red light and a ~3second lag between pressing record and the camera recording. The wrist remote used about 50% of the battery over the weekend/12 jumps. I found the camera battery lasted ~6-8 jumps though spare batteries can be purchased cheaply from Amazon (I paid $16 for 2) and switch out the same way as the cards do. Current set up: Bonehead flat top narrow with the Sony A65 screwed directly to the helmet (no bracket) with thumb screw and a large washed in the inside and a layer of cork between the camera and helmet. Next to the stills is a Sony AS100V mounted upside down inside a square bracket bolted directly to the helmet. It weights 5.1lb (2.3kg). Photo of set up is attached. Sony A65 settings: I have been playing with both manual settings and using the cameras of sports setting for skydiving all with decent results. You can pick your own settings for what you want to achieve. Worth noting though, even with Sandisc Extreme pro cards (write speed of 60mbs, off the top of my head) I am still using the low continuous mode as the high setting fills the buffer and can take 7 seconds to clear. Images range between 5-8MB. Sony A65 functionality: Battery life on it is solid; I started the day with a battery at 27% and got through 5 jumps before it was down to 15% and I switched batters. The second battery did the next 7 jumps and it is still at 86%. Switching batteries, with my set up, just meant undoing the thumb screw inside my helmet to access the door and popping a new one in and tightening the screw. Memory cards are accessible from the side so basically, if I start the day with a full battery I would only have to unscrew my camera to change the battery at the end of the day assuming I did 15 camera jumps. You can either buy switches made specially for Sony (~$70-$90) or you can buy an adapter from Hypoxic (~$40) and use Canon switches. (~$50). I have attached some different photos using the A65 in different settings with the Sigma 10-20 lens over the last few months. Most (all?) where done with manual settings/ Aperture priority.

First weekend back after an accident that put me out for 11 months

The advice I was given is below, I am not a doctor and I am just recounting what was told to me relevant to my injuries (full length IM nail right femur after a swooping accident broke the femur in to 10+ pieces). I spoke to two different ortho surgeons about my femural nail and having another accident. Both said the knee would blow out (ligaments) long before the titanium rod/femur would be damaged. The femur is now re-inforced with the titanium rod that will flex a reasonable amount without breaking the bone (and if the bone did break the rod will flex back to its normal position and keep the the limb stable). That is not to say you can't bend the rod, just that it is extremely unlikely as there are other ways the energy will be absorbed before the rod bends permanently. One surgeon did relate a story of a girl who had a second break and managed to permanently bend the rod only weeks after having the nail put in. The femur was completely stable with a 45 degree bend in it (re-broken obviously, but stable because of the rod). Extracting the rod around the bend was took a bit of thinking but other than that not really a big deal (grated this surgeon is the head of one of the best orthopaedic centres in Canada)

poke some holes in it?

and you have the data card... take your common sense, it goes a long way Also, take a BB gun or frizbee so you can pass time during the weather holds.

so I may be ignorant but to me it sounds like it could be fixed with a new chip/updated hypeye? though with the wifi remote (which seems to have decent battery life) it may be a redundant exercise.

a pair of snug fitting sunglasses ($20 drug store variety) and a bungee if you need one. Has worked for me with a FTP, Cookie ROK and Uvex ski helmet

Pulling pebbles out of your shoes/pants (more so on no wind days) might get old? otherwise the soft sand on the beaches in Australia rocked (minus the sand in your shoes/pants business) - if less than perfect you could still stick a stand up landing in the sand or if there was no wind and you wanted to sit down it was nice and soft. I'd vote for sand over pea-gravel but either one is nice, though a smooth flat well kept grass area is just as good really. Of course flairing really helps, just wish I had done that on my last jump

Anecdotal at best but I personally don't wingsuit with anything smaller than my Pilot 117. I had a friend who had issues with his Pilot 111 and big suits. I have had no issues (jumping my R-bird through to X3 with my 117).

probably a stupid question but maybe it could work... Could you use a Sony Multi Terminal to AV/R Adapter with a Hypeye to control a as100v (it has a multi terminal)? Cheers Dave

Plastic, it is the new carbon ... maybe they will now make a legit (FTP like) camera helmet.

had a couple of toggle fires on a 91 @ 2.1ish and been able to get out of it with time to spare with some grunting and cussing the thing never jumped a velo to compare

actually attached it this time

It flew on its back ok before (pressurisation in the lower half of the tail wing wasn't the best/it could be slow to re-inflate after a sloppy transition) but after the 2 new vents were added it was much better Of course I could just suck ;) below is a video after the mod - I don't have video from before (someone decided they needed my old laptop more than I did...) but is wouldn't inflate properly below the knee on my back https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152771057505635&set=vb.625875634&type=3&theater In the photo you can see the stock vent (I feel that air intake was restricted by the low pressure/burble created by the rig) and the two 'new' black ones

it would be a waste of time, even the back fly vents that existed when I bought mine were insufficient for the Rbird (single in the center up high) and I ended up adding to more of my own more inline with the location on a P2. The mod improved the backflying abilities of the suit 10fold but i do feel i sacrificed some of its belly to earth performance....

i have a bunch on an Rbird in the 3:40+ area

I find the v306 micron and i12 infinity to be about the same but narrower than an icon (though an icon i3 is for 135 canopies and the i2 for 110 canopies with the i12 and 306 for 120s so probably not a fair comparison)...I also see the new nexgen icons had a tall/narrow option

well hurry up and be the sacrificial lamb, others are waiting (I am in the same boat, I need a new HC set up but probably not until the end of the year so I might/should get lucky)

http://dgise.com/post/62262921573/gopro-hero-4-specs-and-release-date-are-disclosed summer, possibly June, if the above link is worth anything

correct me if I am wrong but the way I understood it was that pd reserves are actually bigger than there model name. A pdr113/OP113 is something like ~125 square feet. (PIA measurements v's PD measurements???) so a OP113 is a ~125 square foot canopy with a 263cubic inch pack volume which means it packs about the same as a Speed 2000 150 (which may or may actually be 150 sq feet). It closes the gap a little bit though there is still a significant pack volume difference for a given square footage. Then of course there is also the Icarus Nano reserve which probably has different pack volumes again...

both mine got a good coating when new (r bird, X3, parapak)... no damage i am aware of and I suppose it worked in so far as I have no way of proving it didnt