Tim-O-T

have a look: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1496576492/stubilizer-gopro-compatible-active-camera-stabiliz?ref=live

Should reach consumer market next year, with kickstarter campaign in January. http://www.rocksolid-tech.com/

A USB remote shutter release is available for the NEX-3N. It might be nice to hack the switch there, as oppose to hacking the camera itself. Or maybe a future hypeye can be built to use this USB port. http://store.sony.com/p/Wired-Remote-Camera-Remote-Alpha-Remote/en/p/RMVPR1 Right now it is only compatible with the NEX-3N, but it gives hope that future NEX models will follow. The NEX-3N is a nice camera, but lacks the faster phase detection autofocus of the NEX-5R. http://store.sony.com/p/Wired-Remote-Camera-Remote-Alpha-Remote/en/p/RMVPR1#compatability

Have a look at Video Copilot: Action Essentials 2, and Riot gear.

Crazy idea, but since the gopro 3 is so small, would it not be possible to create a new internal mounting position in the chin of the helmet? This way you can bypass snag hazards, bashing your camera, and won't interfere with sliding of the visor. Most importantly you could make it so you can see the record light blinking, so no more "dude, is my gopro on?"

Yeah, that screenshot was from a video recorded with the switch flipped to NTSC. (Its strange the handycam logo comes out in since that's only in the boot screen)

No error messages and I also did a hard reset. Video on the LCD was scrambled, but I could still see the icons, etc. Also checked the recorded video file info on pc and the metainfo still said 25fps. Didn't try the HDMI output. My guess is the clock can go up, but the cam software can't write in higher frame rates. Guess there is no easy was to change the firmware?

Well, I tried flipping the PAL/NTSC switch on my CX100E, but it didn't work too well. Video and LCD are scrambled and flicker like hell (see attached). Flipped it back to PAL and all was good again. Maybe the NTSC versions can be downclocked, but the PAL ones can't go up?

Is it as simple as flipping the NTSC/PAL switch? I was expecting the firmware would be different between NTSC/PAL models and would need to be flashed. Has anyone actually tried this and can confirm it works? I won't mind a boost in FPS going from PAL to NTSC.

Yeah, I think Garmin abandoned the option to choose between 1-sec and smart recording after the FR301/305. But luckily it is back in the FR610 and FR910XT. FR910XT also has a barometric altimeter, so its the one to go for.

Thanks, I'll keep that one in mind, but was looking more for a top-mount option. Something that clips into the Zkulls connector would be best.

Wired remote shutter only gives shooting at 1fps. Anyway what is the best way of mounting the NEX-5N - will any of the regular SLR brackets work? Guessing its too small, and the lens wont reach the velcro strap. This camera also has an annoying protuberance for the tripod mount, and the low surface area means it untwists easily. Please post pics of your helmets!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTXiYohr6lw Ok its paragliding, but it at least shows what a snag hazard these cameras pose and the usefulness of a cutaway helmet! Watch him fumbling for the chin strap buckle - thought the guy was gonna break his neck...

Make sure "frame blending" and "blend fields" is off. They are on by default. Also make sure your project frame rate is exactly the same as the camera --> “Project Properties” --> “Match Media Settings” frame blending will seriously fuk up render times, it is stupid it is on by default.

Setup looks OK, but I would recommend putting a steadycam mount like this between camera and helmet: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXUeO3auRZg

Well you'll still have to contact Sony support, but at least you can just give them the part number directly.

Oops, well for future reference here are the actual part numbers for that piece. Its a bit complicated cause that part happens to have the serial number, compliance stamps etc. for that country. But I guess most people will want the US or the Europe (E) models - just check the symbols match up to what you have. from this site - whole pdf is too big to upload here: http://www.eserviceinfo.com/

schematics for those interested - I've now removed both the handstrap and the dc/ac cover (nondestuctively).

Now how about a collar made of d3o? -flexible for looking around -stiffens with the force from a hard opening

http://eugenia.gnomefiles.org/2009/06/29/the-top-10-must-fix-features-for-vegas/ Have a look at point number 4. I suspect you could have some frame blending going on - Try disable the resampling and deinterlacing, rerender and see if things improve. Also check out if your project settings are the same are your source footage, and that you are not dropping NTSC footage into a PAL timeline/wrong framerate, etc. (point no.5) Oh, and if your render times seem exceptionally long, this is a hint some sort of resampling is happening. This has happened to me a few times .

Here are some pics of my setup: Tonfly CC1 with double Zkulls connectors for both top and side mounting. Helmet feels very lob-sided with side-mounting though - I'll only use like this if I put a still camera on top. Lens is a Century 0.3x baby death - plenty of space for it.

Yes, but you need to specifically request it - this is what I did. Couldn't decide between a top or side mount . No extra cost, unless you want a spare zkulls male connector.

no vig with a step down from 37mm. I reckon you could still add an extra 2 spacer rings to make the FOV wider with no vig. The CX100 is quite narrow on most lenses it seems. And yes adding spacers will make a lens wider (although this might seem counter intuitive).

It should. There is only a small amount of overlap at the bottom - the camera almost sits flat on a desk. Probably won't work for a side-mount however.

some pics of the CX100 + baby death still waiting on my tonfly CC1 and box, so sorry no footage yet