Grumpy

PD did some detailed research into this a while back but the report is no longer available on their site. Does anyone know why it was removed? Here's the bulk of it. Well worth a read. https://www.skydivemag.com/new/2018-06-06-two-canopies-out/

That sucks. You'll be ready to downsize by the time it gets delivered :)

I prefer the display on the Atlas which changes automatically from aircraft mode (lots of detail) to freefall mode (thousands and hundreds of feet only - super simple and clear) and then to canopy mode (adds tens of feet) providing an appropriate level of detail for each phase of the jump.

...and more often than not, in the pond for much longer than that

Phil Onis in Australia has over 35,000 jumps. Don't know how many tandems but that's mostly what he's done for the 20 years I've been going to his DZ so easily over 10,000

An L&B Optima or Quattro is a great addition to your gearbag. The canopy alarms are easy to hear and they allow you to keep your eyes on the traffic around you and your approach rather than continually looking at your wrist. If you start doing higher performance landings in the future, they allow for much greater consistency on your final turn so you can start to fine tune your turn technique (but get canopy coaching before you start this). I have a wrist mounted digital alti (Neptune) but after opening, I rarely look at it again. I did try using the canopy alarms on the but couldn't reliably hear them so I got myself an Optima. The Quattro wasn't available at the time but it seems to have additional log book functionality for the same price so that's probably the way I'd go if I was buying again.

I agree with BMAC615. Consider worse case scenario, I'm unconscious, on my back, and my AAD opens my reserve container. Any delay or hesitation in the reserve being extracted from the container could have really serious consequences. I've chosen a standard fit reserve in my 306 in the belief that it improves the chances of a clean quick deployment and any reserve that's inflated over my head is better than a larger one that's still in my container. Just my reasoning behind my choices.

I've got one from here. Works great and is snag resistant. http://www.devianprint.com

I've got a 306 with Xaos 21-94. I put an OP113 in because I didn't want a full fitting reserve (don't want that thing hesitating when it's coming out of the container) but it's a small reserve when you're trying to put it down in a tight spot off the DZ. If I was buying again, I'd go 319 for sure. Same thickness as the 306, just a little longer and the 306 sits high on my back already (I'm 5'10" but my torso is quite long)

On the G3 helmets there's the little orange thing under the lining, left hand side at the bottom to adjust the tension on the chinstrap. It's just a little orange piece of plastic. The draw cord is wrapped around it a few times. If you unwind it a little it should take some of the tension off the chin strap.

Go Pro have released a new cheap version of the Hero, just called the Hero (no numbers or colours). http://shop.gopro.com/APAC/cameras/hero/CHDHA-301-master.html It hasn't got all the bells and whistles I'll never use and don't want to pay for. Has anyone jumped one? What's the image quality is like?

Sorry to hear you're leaving. Thank you for investing so much time in sharing so much useful information over the years with the community. Best wishes for the future. Dave

DSE, I just picked up a 1080 mini to top mount on a G3. The curved "snap tray" is more curved than the profile of the helmet so there's clear space under the centre of the mount reducing the mating surface area. Turning it 90 degrees allows it to match the profile of the helmet better but then I have to use the taller hemi-lock so the camera can be pointed forward. Would adding a small circle (half inch diameter) of VHB tape so there's a double layer in the middle of the snap tray be a good idea do you think? Can you think of any other way I could improve the interface between the two surfaces? Thanks.

Have you tried the Psycho Pack method? It's good at getting all the air out of a newer ZP canopy and should allow your existing canopy to pack smaller. Google it for instructional videos if there's nobody at your dz who can give you a demo.

I went to the Contour site yesterday to download the user guide and the software for configuring the camera. The links seem to be broken now so I dug around and found copies on the interweb. I've put them in my Dropbox in case anyone else needs them. You should be able to access even if you don't have a Dropbox account. Cheers. Dave User guide - Contour Roam 2 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/31394473/Contour/Contour_ROAM2%20manual.pdf Storyteller for Mac https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/31394473/Contour/Contour-Storyteller-Installer.dmg Storyteller for PC https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/31394473/Contour/Contour-Storyteller-Installer.exe

I had my Optima II batteries go flat after a couple of weeks of not being turned off. I emailed L&B about it and they said batteries should last 1-2 years without turning it off. They said my unit must be faulty and replaced it straight away (Thanks L&B) and have only replaced the batteries once since then (3 years ago)

My measurement was an L size on the chart but when the Large helmet arrived I realised it was going to be too much of a struggle to get in and out of it every jump and the strap was too tight across my throat. I returned it to Cookie (un-jumped and un-used) and they sent me an XL instead (super quick turn around and they didn't charge me for the postage for the second one - Thanks Cookie). It was absolutely the right decision. When I do up the strap, it clinches the back of the helmet around my head and holds the helmet securely with no discernible movement in free fall. The audibles are barely noticeable. Obviously everyone's head shape is different but I can measure my head again (I forget what it was) if you like. Can you try an XL at the DZ? (make sure you pull out the strap to the right to clinch it)

Is this what you are looking for? http://www.flycookie.com/shop/Accessories/101/index.htm

Freefly - Sonic - Happy Camera - Tony - Happy Suit improvement.... 2 thoughts... 1. After the jump, when it's warm, most jumpers get out of the top half of their suits, tie the sleeves around their waist and spend the rest of their time on the ground hitching the suit back up on their hips as the sleeves knot loosens. Suits could have either a belt (internal or external) OR an over the sholder elastic strap attached to the waist of the suit. 2. boosters need to have an arrangement to allow them to be "stashed". You only need them in the air. Most of the day they're flopping around and tripping you up. Maybe a tuck tab or a a pop fastener on the tab on the toe of the booster ??

I jumped one for about a thousand freefly jumps. There were a number of up-dates made to my rig by the manufacturer that are necessary but your rig may already have them done. The main flap teeth were up-graded to beaver teeth (almost an inch wide as far as I remember) from the thin little tabs that were on the original Talon 2. The reserve flap had tuck tabs added to the side of the flap which made it much more secure than when just the bottom of the tab was tucked in. A bridle cover was added to make sure there's no exposed bridle between the BOC pocket and the main flap #3 by giving you something to tuck it under (and therefore out of the wind when you're flying head up) I also had a bungee cord on the leg-straps to stop them sliding down my legs in a sit and I had a low profile reserve handle. With the modifications done (they were all cheap to have done) and the rig well maintained, was secure and problem free.

I had the same problem and emailed UPT. Theyresponded immediately (continuing the awesome customer service I've always received from them), asked me a few questions about my rig and determined that the following fix was appropriate. They mailed me a velcro piece which is sewn inside the resreve handle pocket but it floats at one end so should allow for more flexing of the harness (see attached photo) They warn that the force to remove the handle will increase marginally. I will have the velco fitted at my next re-pack so can't tell you how effective it is yet. This may not be appropriate for your rig and you shoud absolutely contact UPT before making any mods like this to your rig.

Gav, When you're starting out, baggy is better. The tighter suits that people wear now are only a benefit when you get more precise in your flying. As you'll be learing head up first, get a baggy top to go with your freefly pants. This will give you more drag on your upper body (make sure it is not so baggy that it can blow up around your handles) making it easier to get head up and work out your flying position. As you get better you won't need the extra bagginess but it accelerates the learning in the early stages.

The Optima is designed to be left on all the time. L&B say there is no need to turn it off (unlike the Pro Track).

Get onto facebook and search "Brisbane skydivers". I think they've got our 850hp Beaver this weekend. If you're still having trouble, call hte head office on 02 9791 9155 and ask them for a contact number for the Brisbane DZ. Cheers, Dave