Chubba

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Gear

  • Main Canopy Size
    170
  • Reserve Canopy Size
    160
  • AAD
    Cypres 2

Jump Profile

  • Home DZ
    In Queensland
  • License
    A
  • License Number
    10160
  • Licensing Organization
    APF
  • Number of Jumps
    110
  • Years in Sport
    1
  1. You should UPSIZE, get something closer to 1.0 for next 100 jumps.
  2. You have a good attitude, keep reading/researching and make sure you double check everything with your instructors. Stick with the 170 for your first main if your instructors have put you on a 170 and it's treating you well, you don't want to load over 1.0, you have to be wary of short lines from a 150. A 170/150 container sizing would probably be ideal for the foreseeable future, also consult your instructors. Size your reserve for the worst case scenario, not for landing straight into the wind. You will never regret having extra fabric over your head.
  3. Make sure YOU can pack it comfortably. It often sounds good on paper, but buying a tight fitting canopy/container can really piss you off for the next 12+ months. Took me over 100 packjobs on my first rig (very tight 170) before it wasn't a massive ordeal. Really hampered my ability to crank out the jumps and in hindsight I should have gone for something easier to pack.
  4. I jump at a very small single C182 DZ. Daily jumps go completely wrong and a single point isn't made. Sometimes I do 10 jumps in a row with an A licensed jumper and only make a single dock from 10k. Nobody takes offense, we offer advice and get straight back onto the load with said jumper. Lifes too short to be a points nazi.
  5. I sit down above 20 knots, I will also sit down if it's extremely gusty. The majority of jumpers here will jump between 20-25 knots and will sit down above 25... I choose not to go with the majority because my Sabre2 170 @ 0.95 basically lands me backwards above 25 knots.
  6. EDIT: LOL opps. That was a big rant at the wrong person.
  7. Most definitely. Don't get ahead of the curve too early, these things are there for a reason. Also take into account the emergency handles, our DZ uses SOS silver + dummy, every DZ has there own system and a sport setup might not be appropiate till you're licensed (or converted).
  8. +1 I can't stand jumpers that believe skydiving makes them a superior human being. Take a step down off your high horse.
  9. Hard opening on a Sabre2? Never heard that from anyone before. I get 700-800ft with just pushing the nose back, I remember when I first got my Sabre2 and I was rolling the nose, 1000ft. Closed end cells, yep, had them 100% of my jumps. I asked my rigger if there was anything to worry about, he said "Nop, it's often an indicator of soft openings, are your openings soft?"... hell yeah, they're like butter. They inflated in 3-5 seconds anyway, but I just pump my rears after opening/adjust heading. Off heading, I agree too, used to do 180's for the first ~100 jumps, but with my better body position and awareness I'm NEVER turning over 90 now. I have faith that I can open the Sabre2 on-heading, it's just taking a lot of work. All that aside, I got the canopy for it's flare power landing straight in, it treats me EXTREMELY well, nearly 200 jumps on my Sabre2, 1 downwind landing (walked away), otherwise 100% standups.
  10. This thread has very little to do with canopy choices now. It's about your attitude to canopy flight, which is potentially dangerous to others. Everyone can suggest conservative canopies and while it may contribute to your safety, ultimately only you can change your attitude. You need to go back and reflect on your comments such as "I can handle "x" perfectly", "I know I'm capable of handling more then others", "no, no incidents here", "I've been learning before I even did a tandem", "meaning there is no room for me to improve". Don't be so defensive.
  11. This must be a troll. I've never seen anyone with such a ridiculous attitude in my life. I'm going refrain from a large outburst, I've read some silly threads on DZ.com over the years, but this one takes the cake. You have 30 jumps, take a step back and listen to the people in this thread, it's not a majority telling you to slow down.... it's ONE HUNDRED PERCENT!
  12. Have you ever got stuck going downwind yet 888? I didn't get my first downwinder till jump ~150. I had just passed 100 tip toe standups in a row, my head was inflated and was looking to downsize, then due to a bad spot ended up going downwind in 15 knots. I walked away from that one but came out extremely battered and bruised, very humbling experience.
  13. If a Sabre2 150 @ 1.0 is boring at 30 jumps you're definitely not flying the canopy properly. I'm closing in on 200 jumps on my Sabre2 170 @ 1.0 and it's still an absolute blast, I got so much more to learn, it's still throwing me curveballs. When you change your mindset, wanting to REALLY learn about flying/maxing out your canopy, you will discover a whole new world under your wing after you deploy. Slow down, you got all types of fun stuff ahead of you... turning your first points, learning to freefly, getting into wingsuits, doing camera, doing CF... whatever. You can't do all those fun disciplines in freefall if you break yourself under canopy. As someone mentioned earlier, 500 jumps is the guideline for the Stiletto, completely out of the question.
  14. Never give money upfront for a rig. At your jump numbers, do the deal through a rigger. That way you won't get flat out ripped off, he can double check the quality of the gear and make sure you're getting what you pay for. It's also a good way to form your first relationship with a rigger, something that I've found is VERY valuable, they are much more useful then just repacks and sales... pick their brains a bit. In case you don't understand, in essence. You would find a rig that takes your fancy on DZ.com, you would organise for the seller to send the rig to an independant rigger, the rigger would then check the gear and verify that it is indeed what you paid for, you can go down and check out the gear/put the harness on. Then when you decide it's suitable, you pay the seller... the seller then contacts the rigger and confirms you have paid, then the rigger releases the rig to you. Assuming the rigger is legit, there's no risk for either the seller or buyer. I wouldn't purchase a rig any other way. Make sure you consult your instructors.