parachutist

I think they have factions in Vigil, like the white house. Some want a normal date format while others cling to the week/year style [inline cuatrodates.jpg]

I don't know of any studies. Just from watching a baglock or two descend, I'd guesstimate 8-12x the speed of the reserve pc, depending on the size of the main PC. Good luck with the search!

Each case is different. If a pin has a definite bend at one specific point on the shaft, then I'm likely to recommend replacing the rip cord. This block was used to encourage an out-of-true pin with a slight curve to be straight again.

Thanks! It cost me about $1.75 in materials for this print, using PLA plastic, and probably another $1 in electricity. The plastic is plenty strong, but if it ever did get damaged you could print another in a few hours.

Indeed. A wash means a complete disassembly and reassembly. Plus the actual wash. Sometimes I charge $50 and sometimes $60. Plus the $75 R&I, and $10 more to inspect and pack the main. Also the gear spends 2-3 days hanging in my loft, taking up space while it dries. Good soap isn't cheap either. Complete dis/reassembly, new elastics if warranted: 55 for a sport or pilot container wash and 65 for a tandem. 70 I&R, 7 main pack

Pin straightening block: [inline pinblock.jpg] This is a tool I needed recently. I added holes ranging from 2.3 to 4.0 mm, suiting a variety of pins. The STL file is inside the attached .zip. I hope some people find it useful

Thanks Chris for the kind words, however I could not find a good way to model two GoPro 5 Blacks onto a single glove. GoPro added doors on the bottom and on one side. For a typical tandem HC workflow, we'd need access to both of those doors. My attempts to make 2 of those cameras be accessible on the same glove produced a housing that was too large or too expensive to manufacture. So instead I recommend the Sessions for 2017 double GoPro setups. I wish I had a better answer Chris

If the new lines seem much longer than old lines, I'd measure a few lines to make sure the correct set was installed. The long loose lines will work as-is, but it requires a lot of attention to detail when s-folding the excess into the container. I like easy packing, so I'd add 2-4 more elastics and maybe reduce the size of the bights by about 1/2" each. Long bights can increase the chance of line twists. Chris

I considered making a housing for it, but I decided there are too many things working against the X3000 as a handcam: - The image stabilizer crops the image, so you won't be able to use that stabilizing feature for a 170 degree FOV shot - Long and slim form factor puts the lens closer to the subject, once again impeding the FOV - Card slot location is underneath, which makes it not quick and easy to access I do make a flat top universal glove mount. That could work using the camera's stock mount for flat surface. [inline flat_top.jpg]

Thanks for the feedback! The story on why I needed to redesign those double Session housings: When GoPro initially released the Session back in 2015, they included two frames with each camera. One was a Low Profile, the other was Standard. [inline frames.jpg] For tandems I figured LP was the one to use. I could make a more snag-proof housing for that Frame. So I designed a side-by-side model. [inline legacy_dubsess.jpg] Then GoPro got a lot of backlash for the high initial Session prices, so they dropped the price and made up some of the difference by cutting out accessories. Originally the rectangular retail box came packed with accessories. One of the parts they stopped including was the LP Frame. You could still buy them from GoPro, but they were pricey. That meant my side-by-side model wasn't as cost effective any more, except for people who already had LP Frames. In order to make a Session housing that could hold the camera without need for those Frames, I needed to change the manufacturing process. So the Lightweight Session housings were created. They're named that way because the newer method lets them be very strong without needing as much bulk material. [inline LW_housings.jpg] There are two versions because some had asked for a stacked model and others prefer the lower double wide style. Both of these versions have the cameras angled back a few degrees, which lets them be relatively low without catching the hand in the shot.

I talked with them on the phone and through email last week. They sent some fabric for a repair and it arrived a few days after I requested it. Sorry to hear about your delayed service

Movie Studio can use templates. You'll likely need to rebuild the ones from Vegas Pro because MS probably won't read them, but it's pretty easy. The part that MS can't do is use scripts to automatically populate those templates with your video clips ( PA only works in Vegas Pro). Instead, you'd need to drop the clips onto the template's timeline manually.

I got this advice from UPT's rigging dept a few years ago. It was a solution to the RSL tab damaging the right riser's 3-ring loop. All of our Sigmas were showing wear on the right riser loops, while the left ones were in great shape. If you hook the shackle on back to front, I was told, then you won't have that problem. A few years later: we still get a bit more wear on the right risers, but it's not as pronounced as it was before we started hooking up the RSL back-to-front consistently.

MEL would have the details on that. From my observations and experiences: they aren't the same. HMA looks like it's ready to fray when new, like a fuzzy sweater. Technora is solid and stays that way. Maybe the fibers are the same with the difference being all in the coating.

I'd agree with this. A 120 is a small enough canopy that line trim matters. On 170s and up it matters a lot less and then I'd go with Spectra. Just my 2 cents. Other people see it differently. Yes everything gets more affected on smaller canopies. Maybe I am biased against Vectran because of the constant need to replace it around here.

Must be something to do with the area where jumps are made and line life. That's kind of the message I got from a PD rep when discussing with them a few years back. I'd asked why Sigma vectran lines were wearing so fast for DZs close to me (350 jumps). It was something happening with the fine sand dust particles getting in the lines and shredding away. Switch to Technora and we get 650. Spectra doesn't seem to be affected, except for the typical shrinkage. So for my area I was thinking 450 from a spectra line set before the openings are bad enough to replace, and 350 for Vectran. Maybe all desert areas aren't like my sandy beach area here, but the OP mentioned desert so I figured it might apply

Vectran life is kinda short. Also it gets damaged near the links quickly, unless you pull the slider down on every jump. Spectra would be my choice

Thanks

I've used various things to hold bobbins such as store-bought trays or rubber donut style, or pipe insulation sliced in half. But these days 3D Printing allows exact fits, so I built my own bobbin trays and the design is open to anyone who would like to use it. Driven by variables, you can change the diameter and depth dimensions to suit any bobbin. And you can change the size of the tray: like 3x10 for 30 bobbins or 2x6 to hold 12, or anything within reason. This link is to the CAD model at OnShape.com. If you agree to the CC license that is displayed, just click on the "Trays" tab at the bottom of the screen to access the model. You can create an account for free and copy the file to your account, then adjust to your liking. The only gripe I've heard about the free accounts was a possible phone call from a salesperson, so be aware of that before punching in your digits. [inline tray.jpg] Legend for the variables: #Width_number = The tray will be this many bobbins wide #Length_number = The tray will be this many bobbins long #Bobbin_Diameter = outside diameter of the bobbin #Bobbin_Depth = width of bobbin end to end #PlusDiameter = extra space allowed between the bobbin and the curved walls #PlusDepth = extra space allowed between the vertical walls. More depth makes it easier to grab a bobbin. Recommended values are .5 - 2.5 depending on how big your fingers are #ShellThick = Determines how thick the walls are after the model gets hollowed out. It should be a multiple of your nozzle size. If you want a stronger part, you can increase this, but printing time goes up. #WallThick = how thick the vertical separating walls between the bobbins will be. Whatever amount you add here will be doubled because the linear pattern stacks bobbin sockets end to end. 2.0 has worked well for me. [inline printedsamplesb.jpg] Or if you'd like to print a version of this design that needs no account or adjustments, here are a few pre-made trays in STL format. All of these are 3x8 configurations, except for the 733R version. for Bernina 217 bobbins for Consew 146RB, 199RB, or 206RB for Consew 339RB for Consew 733R for Juki DDL-8700 and similar for Juki LK-1900AHS for Juki LU-2810 Print settings I used in Simplify3D slicing software: .4 mm nozzle .4 mm extrusion width .15 mm layer height 5 top solid layers 4 bottom solid layers 3 outline/perimeter shells 0% infill 0 support 50 mm/s print speed X Only retract when crossing open spaces X Minimum travel for retraction = 15 mm

It think it looks like a Juki DNU-241: http://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/juki/DNU-241.htm

Which software are you using for editing & rendering? Maybe take a snapshot of the screen showing the current settings & post it here... somebody familiar with that app can probably pick out the issue

+1 on the Voodoo Curv. Because all the options you probably want are included in the base price. No add-on skyrocketing additions like SS hardware... it's already there! And a Curv fits better than any other rig I've tried.

All units manufactured before 2015 are affected. Give M2 Distribution Inc. a call and they will send you the cutters you need. I talked to them this morning about 3 units and they were very helpful. M2 Distribution, Inc 1200 Flightline Blvd, Suite 5A DeLand FL 32724 USA Tel: +1 (386) 279-7542 [email protected] www.m2-usa.com In my log books are some M2's that were manufactured in early 2015. Is Mars saying that 2014 cutters were only installed in 2014 AADs?

I think you're referring to the list of cutter batch numbers. Those are in the report, but not serial numbers of AADs which had those cutters installed. Unless you're seeing a lage that's not coming up on my droid

This SB mentions a list of serial numbers: "All identifiable m2 safety device owners of the listed serial numbers;" But I don't see that list. Hopefully Mars is working on that list now, because it would help me plan cutter replacements for specific owners if I know they're going to be affected.