likestojump

You are just too cool for a reserve, you don't need one. Just get a BASE rig. Then you won't need a rigger ticket either. They didn't make the older, now cheaper reserves in sizes that small. Because they would have landed like rocks. bullshit. the man needs a MicroRaven109. He'll be fine. Well, at least no worse than he already is.

Grab it with a pair of hemostats or needle nose pliers. It's pretty tight in there.

Pictures please. As far as Velcro - it's extremely directional. Practice the natural pull(peel) direction, and I bet(hope) it'll be a lot easier to separate.

straight from the horses mouth ... http://www.performancedesigns.com/packingchart.aspx

You are likely a very infrequent, low volume PayPal user, thus all the checks. No matter what you tell them, what the buyer tells them, they'll need proof of you being you before they will be willing to assume the risk of the transaction. You can always just do a wire transfer...

Let's see a screenshot of the email and email address it came from.

I found that on my 31-15 the presser foot would stick intermittently after I would drop it after a lift. I got into a habit of pulling down after dropping via a the back lever, and that cured my problem with inconsistent pressurize between the foot/feeddogs. Could you be experiencing the same problem ?

http://www.velocityrigs.com/media/site/information-canopy-compatibility-chart-r3.pdf says the max regular 9 cell ZP is a 135 Stiletto, so I am guessing NO. Another thing to think about - what size reserve will you be pairing up with that 170 Pulse ? (my guess : "low bulk 150ish") If you decide to get a i23SN for that combo, I hope whichever rigger agrees to pack this, is a not prone to stress and throwing things.

a world of difference between stuff made in the 90's. 1991 - not freefly friendly, most likely F111 main 1998 - most likely freefly friendly, most likely a ZP main Give more details. Also please don't assume that EVERYTHING was made in 1998 - each component can have a drastically different DOM.

$3500 to $4500 for something that will be newer and will have most bells and whistles. $2500 to $3500 for still modern, but older, still safe, but higher jump numbers. Be ready to tell people to get a reality check when they are offering you "mint condition 1993 gear with only 300 jumps" for $3K.

HOW DARE YOU INSULT THE ONE TRUE RIG! on a more serious note... Icarus reserves are bad? No idea, but definitely not as well proven as PD or Aerodyne.

This has been beaten to a pulp, resurrected, and then beaten again. However, in the interests of help, here are some very generic guidelines : Most things made in the past 15 or so years are going to be more or less modern. The exceptions would be some Racer models (this is a completely different topic, but no matter how people preach the Racer to you, the resale value is shit), Dolphins, and some oddball Euro-manufacturers. If you want a hard and fast rule - go with the major manufacturer container, a PD or an Aerodyne reserve, and a PD or an Aerodyne or an Icarus canopy, and your only concern should be gear condition and the price. In fact if you are super AR, just stick with PD made mains and reserves, just be ready to pony up a few extra dollars. That's as generic as I can keep it. good luck, and don't cheap out, or you will be chasing those 1986 Vector rigs with 5 cell Swift reserves until you are blue in a face. PS Oh, and see what people WITH EXPERIENCE say. You are opening up the floodgates for a bunch of low experience jumpers, who have owned 1-2 rigs in their career, to start chiming in and praying to the only manufacturer they have ever dealt with. Hardly an unbiased or a useful opinion.

That's impossible, Spectre came out in 97.

My main canopies are Spectres from 1999 and 2001. I also have a Comp Cobalt from 2003, and a 1997 Heatwave.

Let's see some pictures.

The rig is not properly described. The reserve is an older Firelite, and I am betting the main is some older F111 canopy, but definitely not a Navigator.

I'd like to give some more "in-date" advice. Get a G3 helmet with a tinted mirror visor. It looks way cool in the pictures. And an extremely tight fitting suit. This way no one will have any doubt that you are cool as fuck. Don't worry about tunnel coaching, it's too expensive.

Translated : when you femur in, you better not start a GoFundMe, because you certainly won't deserve it.

If you are smart, you'll go up to a 170 main and reserve combo, but I know you won't. I'd like dibs on your gear when you fly yourself into the ground. PS two weeks ago I was talking to a nearly identical dude, and a day later I was visiting him in the hospital with a turn taint, broken toes and fused lumbar.

Why would someone want to have an in-flight door in a 172 ? Because it may be a personal airplane that when operated by a properly rated pilot, with proper paperwork may be fun to have your friends bail out of. Because it may be used for other work that's best done with door open. Because it could be used as a hop-n-popper to off-load the main plane on a busy day. I am sure there are other reasons people may want one. so - how about some info on STC's for models newer than a C :) ?

That wouldn't surprise me at all, it would just be nice to know for sure. I found the trim line measurements and i think it's closest to a 190 but i really have no idea what I'm measuring for sure Just measure the span and the chord in feet. Multiply those numbers to get the square footage. It won't be exact, but close enough to identify the size. Or you can take a look at the V load tape in the right end cell and see what's printed there in ink.

I'll freefly admit to googling "mechanical trubulence". this is what I found : http://aviationknowledge.wikidot.com/aviation:atmospheric-turbulence With that in mind, flying over obstacles on final is a moronic move and many people learn it as wind shadow. NEXT.

on a counter side, how much are you willing to pay for the convenience of trading rather than selling, and then buying ?

It can happen, but I would attribute it to either sloppy packing or poor kill string design. Easiest solution is to beef up the very end of the line that remains inside the kill line channel when the slider is fully expanded. In-field solution would be to use a rubberband to keep the line from sneaking out, while still allowing it to pay out once the jumper intends to collapse the slider.

One of the least productive ways to seek help in public forum is to be a dick. Delete the thread, Tomadams1, I triple dare you.