likestojump

Haha. Nothing to worry about. You will put in many times more needle holes trying to patch it. This is contained within one rips top square.

I am certain they do. They may have just chosen not to respond. Or may not have seen your post. What I can't believe is that you haven't been steered towards the classifieds : http://www.dropzone.com/classifieds/Spare_Parts/index.html

It's all about bulk management - by not stuffing the corners, you are not utilizing 100% volume of the bag/main packtray, and thus you will have much harder time closing the container (unless you are the 1% who has a container sized for a canopy larger than the one you are packing into it). think of this as a cabinet where you place thigs only at the very front, and don't use the back, and then complain about running out of cabinet space.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=what+time+is+it http://lmgtfy.com/?q=define%3Asarcasm

Funny how the brevity of your original question ( re : http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=4438039;#4438039) and your subsequent attitude had generated a completely different thread. Apples are not oranges. They are not plums either. When comparing them and expect identical results. Wait..so this dude asks a very simple question and he gets jumped on by a bunch of jerks with a sarcastic answer and you are surprised by Rohicks's reaction and attitude? No, not surprised. Over the years I came to expect it. And I am no longer wondering why we have coined a term "Nanny generation". Can you tell me what time it is ? I am too lazy to look at the bottom corner of my screen.

I have packed two W14's with PDR176 and two with Raven1's. I believe RavenII would be noticeably tighter than a PDR176

Funny how the brevity of your original question ( re : http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=4438039;#4438039) and your subsequent attitude had generated a completely different thread. Apples are not oranges. They are not plums either. When comparing them and expect identical results.

or try the classifieds : http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/classifieds/search.cgi?d=1&query=d2

Most of replies in this thread have engaged in a game of broken telephone. the OP asked how to disassemble his main from his rig. Assuming that he meant disconnect from his risers, and not cut away the risers, it really, really, really does not take a scientist, nor does it require even a GED to get that done. Nowhere did the OP state that they will be connecting a main back up. So please don't conjure up any safety concerns about things not mentioned. I very much agree with the people who had said that it's pathetic that someone had not bothered to learn or even take a 30 second look to see that something as simple as unscrewing a barrel link or unthreading a slink may not require an internet post. And to entertain the few who think that everyone is tougher on the net than in real life - please meet me, I am no different from my online persona. What I do notice, is that many who ask dumb/ignorant/lazy questions on the net do not ask the same ones in person - which stands to deduce that they know that those questions are silly, and avoid face-to-face confrontations.

Unthread the screws enough to have at least 3mm of head sticking out (both sides). place the L-bar on hard surface with the head of the bottom screw pointing directly down use a hammer to knock 'em loose by hittin the head of the top exposed screw works every time

Pretty much the same pack volumes.

It looks to me as though the OP is asking for help to learn more about his gear, and getting nothing but grief for his efforts. Hopefully his local riggers are more open to the idea of helping jumpers seeking help. When did the days when common sense was ok to be used end ? Unscrewing a barrel on a rapid link or unthreading a slink is hardly rocket surgery. Or maybe I am just a genius.

Just in case anyone is wondering, the seller of such fine piece of parachuting gear is Tracy Roesler of Henderson, Nevada. user : http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?username=Trigger01; He has now told me "There are no refunds or warranty with used equipment. Sorry" So there you have it, some people aren't all that honest, boo :(

I think "my guy" should train "your guy" - at least "my guy" had folded the insides of the material in ! "Ghetto Rigging Innovations, how may I help you ?"

Well, it was hard to hold myself back, but I really think quality work like this deserves it's own thread. see attached, you won't regret it.

dz.com - global website Perris/Elsinore - local dropzones Solution #1 : Ask people at the DZ if they know someone close to your area solution #2 : Bitch and whine on the internet

You should go and spend $6000-$7000 on a new gear that you can get your A license with. Better ? Just remember - you will most likely end up taking a $1000-$2000 loss on that gear when you will be selling it 50-100 jumps later. As long as that's cool - go for it. And don't forget the most likely 12-38 weeks waiting time.

You guys are still missing one thing.... Either you need to hold a Master Rigger's certificate or be under the direct supervision of one for doing major repairs like replacing lines. Cheers, MEL Hypocrisy : Screaming that linework is to be done by Master Riggers only, yes selling anyone you want a chip with factory bartack patterns to do the said line work. I love the chip you sold me, but should I be sending it back for a refund ?!? Or does money trump principle ?

My the same logic I would expect a tire store to give me a discount on new tires because I worn my old ones out. Ya know, just because electronics don't have measurable "wear" it does not mean that the manufacturer must support them indefinitely. At one point you realize that you got what you paid for, and got your value out of it. Paying for things is more or less playing it forward - allowing companies to make a profit is what allows them to do R&D and bring better/newer/more durable product on the market.

So you have piqued my curiosity. Can you point me towards some reference materials where I see what is involved in learning to make a line set? Thanks all you need to do is : measure (with great precision) fingertrap (cascades, and line ends) bartack a square 9 cell canopy has 40 main (A/B/C/D) line attachments and 8 upper steering lines. That translates into : steering lines : 8 upper (12 bartacks, 12 fingertraps) (assuming it's a continuous line that's trapped into itself 2 lower (4 bartacks, 4 fingertraps) 2 toggle lines (2 or 2 bartacks and 2 or 4 fingertraps) main lines : 10 A + 10 B fingertrapped (30 bartacks, 40 fingertraps) 10 C + 10 D fingertrapped (30 bartacks, 40 fingertraps) 4 more bartacks per side at the stabilizers (8 total) that's a total of 48 lines that need to be made, 108 or 106 bartacks that need to be made and 98 to 100 fingertraps quite involved, huh ?

Oh wow. so you are saying my 2009 Spectre is much better than my 1997 Spectre ? Or that my 2010 PDR is a number of steps above my 1993 PDR ??? This the a problem with putting hard numbers on things - it's not accurate. Otherwise you would be able to articulate the major change that happened to the gear between December 31, 1999 and Jan 1st, 2000

pics the only one I ever had. Was made from a very thick ZP material that packed huge.

This is an older Javelin with a sewn in main cover tuck tab (what you are seeing as frayed) and an older ROL with a little dirt on it. nothing look unsafe based on the picture you posted.

I must be either blind or too tolerant, but I think the "damage" you point it is so superficial that it's silly to even think about it. you have a big beefy junction of load tapes, and you are worried about a single rip stop square worth of damage ??? HTFU !

Comrade made UT15