degeneration

1) Find a DZ that has a decent tandem operation. 2) Look for a job helping out there, and that could be helping out with anything - packing, cleaning, anything. Join the team of people that work there. 3) Make it known that you'd like to progress to being a tandem camera flyer. If they are a good operation, as you've already shown commitment to the team, they'll hopefully help you out getting there. What form this help takes may vary from DZ to DZ, but in your regular jumps you should make sure you are completely safe, in control and reliable when jumping with other people. Try some jumps with camera wings to get used to flying that suit, and if you are allowed, jump with some tandems to practice filming, getting the angles etc. All the above is based on what I gather is a good way to go about it. I'm not a tandem camera man so I may be wrong with the above! Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Basically whatever will give the most valuable information for someone at the beginner stages of learning to swoop. (I know the words "beginner" and "learning" and "swoop" in the same sentence set alarm bells going, but I've done the Flight-1 100 and 200 series, so am practising what I learnt on those.) I've seen some flysight data and don't have a clue how to interpret it. Does it overlay with a video? Cause I'm not 100% convinced that it would mean that much to me without the video of what I was doing at the same time. Where I generally jump the boarding and landing areas are not in the same place, so I won't be able to do this. I can pick up cheap and semi-cheerful ish gopro style cameras for very little these days, so may go the both views route. Otherwise think I'll put the first one as forward facing, as it sounds a bit better for my goals in learning at the moment. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

As per the title really... When practicing swoops what's the best camera angle/view to use for debriefing and analysis? And by that I mean with the camera on the swooper, not an external camera. I know a more POV one won't be as good as external, but for self-analysis when I'm practicing without a coach or anyone to film the landing, it's my only option. So basically, is it: Standard Forward facing; Chest mounted, looking up or some other? I'm just getting myself a little action cam so want to know how to mount it! Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I've only done 1 jump on a Saf2, so can't really say. But I've read lots of threads with people using the Saf2 as their first "learning to swoop" canopy, as its recovery arc is longer than a Pilots. It is in the same class of wing though, along with the Sab2. However, as you do seem to be getting intrigued by the fully elliptical canopy side of things, I can throw in another suggestion - an Odyssey, also from Skylark. I demoed one in a 120, loved it, so bought myself one. I now have two, one in a 105 and the other is a 100. I've also jumped an xf2 in a 109. They are very similar canopies. If you like one, you'll also like the other. So why the Odyssey instead of the xf2? Well, personally I found it to be just that little bit better - less snivelly, but still nice opening and slightly more power in the flare. I didn't do enough with the xf2 to really compare recovery arc, but I've been told they are very similar. I love it. But, as with the Volt comment previously, another reason to consider it is the price. Not sure what the dealer price is in the UK, but their website says an Odyssey is $1500 in a 150 (largest size they seem to offer). If you are concerned about the step up to a fully elliptical, then don't do it. This game isn't a sprint to the finish line. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I've heard (so take this for what you will) that the Zulu has quite a short recovery arc. Katana I've heard (see above) is the most aggressive non-cross-braced canopy out there. As for suitability at your jump numbers - ask your CI or the like, I'm in no way qualified to say. Another elliptical others are maybe likely to suggest if you go the aggressive route is the xfire2 - but I've heard (see above) that if you don't load it at least at 1.4 then you can have performance degradation issues. But to the more sensible part - alternatives to the Sabre2. Safire2 has been mentioned. Another one I've heard (see above) really good things about is the Magellan from Skylark. If you are in the UK, look up Aerosky on facebook and get in touch with them, as I believe they have a Magellan demo canopy available. I've seen that someone called Aiden Chaffe used to have a Magellan, so he would be able to give you first hand experience. His write ups certainly seemed extremely positive for it. As for the Pilots flare... I jumped Pilots in 150, 132, 124, 117 sizes, and the flare was great until the more heavily loaded ones. The problem with it is that the power is right down at the bottom of the toggle stroke. So if you have long brake lines, short arms or other factors that stop you getting right down to the bottom of the toggle stroke, you'll miss the power of the flare. That's all from my experience, so much better info than the "I've heard" bits above. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I hope you got some form of Intellectual Property protection, such as a Patent, for your design, then you may be able to get somewhere with getting paid for it. Without it... And the video you posted is the one I saw, for some reason I didn't like to it. Hopefully someone will have first hand knowledge of how the ACE system works, and therefore be able to confirm that it is your design, or not. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Just saw the Peregrine Ace video. Any information on how it works? http://www.peregrinemfginc.com/styled-18/ Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

If you are looking for a cheap priced container that is known more than these ones, but is still not a 'major' brand, try http://sws.aero/en/ and their fire container. Container for $1150 plus options. I've got 2 of them, and they are slowly getting more popular. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

That's there is specifically why I was putting cling film around the loops first, then the tape around the cling film. If what I'm doing really is a rigging no no, I'll take it off before next jump. Not being a rigger, it just seemed like a simple solution to my problem, and I couldn't think of any way in which it would have an adverse impact. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I have the same problem, and I've got swoop risers with Louie loop style dive loops. At the bottom of the dive loop where I wanted it to stick out rather than lay flat, I wrapped about 1" wide in cling film (saran wrap?) to protect the material of the loop, then covered this cling film in a layer or two of gaffa/duct tape. Can still pull my slider over it, but it is more inclined to leave the loop open. The cling film/gaffa tape stiffener is generally able to slide on the dive loop, so you can move it in storage/when packing so that it is on a different part of the loop if you want. Then just slide it to the bottom once canopy is open. Or something like that. Has worked for me anyway. Will definitely start packing it with the loops opened/pressed the other way though. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I may be one of the makers your are referring to in there, but if not, I make a 2.5mm conversion cable (at a considerably lower price than $80 though! Nearer $22 depending on exchange rates) with a right angle connector on the multi-terminal end (my site - www.skyswitches.com) I use a thermosetting plastic for the right angle connector, so it sets rock solid with no need for shrink wrap over the connector. Can mould to whatever shape, angle, orientation you want, but have relatively limited working time before it sets. I also make the switches, but alas tongue only not bite. If you are able to DIY it, then it will most likely always be cheaper than buying from someone else! Where the extra may be worth it for some though is if you think you might make a mess of it, or don't have the wire strippers and soldering station. For the stuff I sell, person pays the cost, if I make a mistake, mess up a connector, that cost is swallowed by me, still costs the same to the person, I make a new one, and they'll get one guaranteed to work. But 100% agree with the purpose of what you're saying. I only started making adaptors/switches because of the lack of camera support available, and because of what I thought was too much cost for these things! So I've tried to make mine more affordable for people who don't want to go the DIY route. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

If you plan to use it outside of skydiving, the A6000 has a viewfinder which may be useful. The A5100 is smaller than the A6000, which has its obvious mounting on your head benefits. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Time spent in the tunnel is rarely wasted. If you want to be good at skydiving, spend as much time as you possibly can in the tunnel while still allowing you to jump. Learning curve is much steeper in there, it is AWESOME fun as well, and it will make you a better skydiver. I've done 35 ish hours, and don't regret it at all, even though that could have been another 300+ jumps. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Short review as there are no others for it at this point. I had one of these for a while, and had a lot of good jumps with it. It opened nice, flew responsively, and most importantly in skydiving, it looked AWESOME. Easily the best looking canopy I've ever owned. Up in the sky I had a lot of fun with it. I was flying a 100, loaded around 1.8. It was all good until coming in to land. Some occasions it was absolutely fine, with a nice suitable flare. Other times it wasn't though. Particularly for low speed flares. If you misjudge your landing heights and plane out too high, there is next to no flare on the resulting drop to the ground. That made me nervous every time, after the first time, of being too high. Compare that to other canopies I've jumped, where if I plane out too high, there's still plenty of power left in the flare to let me land nicely. Not with the Chili. So as long as you get your heights right, it's good fun. But I moved on from this as I preferred a canopy that I didn't HAVE to think about PLFing if I plane out too high. But that's just my experience, and I'm probably a rather crap canopy pilot, so take this review for what it's worth!

I emailed Vigil about the 10 years battery life, as mine is approaching it, and wanted to know whether it is to the day, or to the end of the month. My vigil's DoM is 7th Aug 2006. Their reply stated that as the battery wasn't going to suddenly stop working, I could change the battery in August or September, whenever suits me. So not hard and fast on the 10 year limit! Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Look at it's main certificate? Or if it had to go through the type 3 cutter mod, look at the certificate that says it has been done. I've got both of those things for my Vigil 1. But beyond that, email AAD to ask them. I've found they are pretty quick at replying, as I've emailed them a couple of times about their 10 year battery limit, and got a reply within a day or thereabouts. Don't know if it'll help much but mine with serial 6479 was Aug 2006. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Presuming the A6300 uses the same multi-terminal control port as the A5100, A6000 etc, to use your Conceptus tongue switch you'll need a 2.5mm to multi-terminal conversion adaptor. Such adaptors are available from various shops online, one of which is from me (www.skyswitches.com) - it comes with a right angled connector on the sony multi-terminal connector, for £16 + shipping. Other brands are available, and I'm sure the likes of Chutingstar stock some from others. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

So, anyone know what the rate is for the tunnel on these beyond the first minute is free? Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Would that be Jedi? As noticed on Frexer's Facebook page they had put a Jedi airware picture up... Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Rather than starting a new thread to ask this question, when it comes to ff suits which is better regarding the ankle cuff: elasticated spandex or a Velcro fastener? Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I saw a picture someone posted of a base wingsuit or something that had in the toe part basically a proper sturdy shoe like sole and surround on it. Something that didn't look like it would wear out if you walk on it. I'd like to see FS suit manufacturers adopt that in their suits, as usually the sole of the bootie is crap and needs to be shoe-gooed or the like to stop it being worn through too quickly. It shouldn't add too much to the cost to make the sole something more heavy duty to negate the requirement to shoe goo. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Ummm, Lucas had great ideas, but was awful at putting them down on screen. He wasn't good at writing a script, he wasn't good at directing - look at all the prequels. TESB, which is considered the best of the SW films, was not directed or produced by Lucas, and the screenplay was not written by him either. I personally don't think that was a coincidence!! All the prequels were written and directed by him, and they aren't exactly great. I'd take a new SW film without Lucas and with Abrams every time. I would, however, like Lucas to give the general story, but then for others to have control over all of it. Anyway, Point Break... Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

I'm 5'7" and about 145 lbs so not really same shape as you, so not got great advice in that perspective. However, when I fly 4 way camera I fly with wings and load up with lead, usually between 8-14 lbs for me. I generally fly with my wings mostly, but not completely, collapsed, but then the wings are there to be used if/when I need them. The weight and slight bit of wings keeps me at the fall rate of the team. Hit that burble and with wings you might be able to save it, without them I'd say there's more chance you are going through. They allow you to have extra range in your fall rate than you would have without them. And the loading up with weight will also allow you to fall faster should the team funnel and start to get away from you. I find fully collapsing the wings then allows me to have that faster range with the weight. I've not done any tandem camera to give any meaningful input there. It does seem counter-productive, but so far for me it has worked, and I've got no plans on changing this approach any time soon. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

No. It is just an audible altimeter. At least, I've never randomly stumbled across any logged data in my years of using one. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).

Get the one that you are comfortable having on your back. If you are having lingering doubts about one, get the other. Cypres' have a mandatory service every 4 years. Vigils can have an optional service any time you want. You can make it every four years if you want. Sky Switches - Affordable stills camera tongue switches and conversion adaptors, supporting various brands of camera (Canon, Sony, Nikon, Panasonic).