agk23

DSE, I looked around and from what I am reading Vegas Movie Studio only contains DVD Architect Studio 4.5 which does not support creation of BD menus. Vegas 9 Pro contains DVD Architect 5 which looks like support creation of BD menus, but it is $600 vs. $115 for the Studio, unless the info I found is dated and things changed. My guess their next version of Studio would come with DVD Architect Studio 5 supporting BD menus. "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

DSE, I the past I used DVD-lab Pro for authoring, it was very easy and cost effective way of making good looking DVDs. Unfortunately they do not support HD and Blue Ray, do you know of anything similar that would support BD? "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

Does Sony Vegas Movie Studio and Ulead Video Studio support BD menus? "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

true, the site is mostly for amateurs, but aren't most of us here? Can you suggest better sites that amateurs (such as myself) can visit for reference materials? Can you recommend any other tool that can be used for authoring BD disks (including making menus) that would not cost me very large amounts of money? Thanks "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

Anyone used multiAVCHD for Blue ray authoring? It is free and supposed to be pretty good. Details can be found here http://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=143744 By the way Doom9.org is a very good source for video editing info "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

Thanks for the offer, but I think your part will probably not fit my helmet (bottom curve). Besides, that way I will not have fun messing up my helmet. "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

Totally agree, I just do not have proper material (or experience working with what I have) I have almost finished making my own box out of aluminum using only the tools that you mentioned above, but I used fairly thin sheet (which is fairly solid when you have it in a box form). For the mount I would prefer to use something thicker. The stuff that I have is 1/8 inch T6 aluminum sheet, which I could not bend cleanly (plus it starts to break and is fairly heavy) I think will try what Ronaldo suggested. Now I just need to figure our what is the best epoxy to use with ABS and aluminum "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

as I said it would be the easiest solution, but I do not know which one and with shipping it to canada, it will cost me probably around $80 anyway "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

Can't really agree with that (using skydiving helmet). Initially I bought Nvertigo-V, ended up selling it. It offers almost no impact protection (which is unfortunately true of all skydiving helmets), and in terms of fit, my ski helmet has much better fit and a lot more secure. fully agree. this is one more reason why I went with ski helmet, i could try on 10 different types in different sizes, when as with skydiving helmets, i can not get access to many different helmets types and sizes here in Canada. Chincup will also help to keep it tight I have already done that portion and have a very good idea of how this part will look like, its dimensions and angles. This is what I wanted to do initially, but i do not have instruments to bend or weld aluminum and manually it does not work well. that is why i started to look at other options "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

Thanks Ronaldo for such detailed post and the drawing. I had something like that in mind (probably did not explain it well in my first post though), the only main difference was to keep the top open when pouring the resin and then putting aluminum sheet cut to size on top prior to curing. I thought that way there is less chances that it would retain any air pockets, but i guess depending on how thin the resin is your approach can work too. as for leveling top sheet to the right angle, I have already made a mock up and figured out the angle of the top and dimensions of the sides, so if I build a form to hold resin to the correct size and just drop the sheet on top, it should be at the right angle "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

I noticed that JB is a little too brittle especially if attached to softer materials and in cold. Where would I get aviation grade epoxy (is there particular brand/grade i should be looking for?) Is the white stuff in the pic - aviation grade epoxy? it looks like some kind of foam. What did you use to create a form to shape the epoxy? Anyone ever use Bondo-Hair® Long Strand Fiberglass Reinforced Filler or Bondo® Fiberglass Resin Jelly? do you think it is any good for the job? "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

I have seen this. Great work, but looks like a lot of work and an overkill for my purpouse. all I want to do it to attach flatlock to the round top helmet. "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

Yes, I am planning to paint it and no, I do not mind if the base is different color from the helmet (because i will paint it anyway) as for finishing sides - i would not be doing on the helmet, i will take it off and trim then and glue it back to the helmet when it is finished (I was planning to use JB weld for that as I think it can bond both ABS and fiberglass) just as you did with your final part. As for the perfectly flat top - I was thinking to use a sheet of aluminum place on top of the epoxy while it is still not cured. It will bond right to the part and i will later renforce the whole thing with screws when attaching flatlock. I will try to get pictures later today, but it's top looks very much like cookie ozone (maybe a little bigger though to allow for crashable foam protection) "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

or any other camera helmet No, I am looking for a little more constructive suggestion "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"

I am trying to put together a camera helmet and need your help: I have a ski helmet (with round top) that I want to convert into camera helmet with cx-100 mounted on top. Here is what I have for the project: -Ski racing helmet made out of ABS (provides fairly good impact protection) with almost round top -cookie chincup with cutaway -cookie flatlock mount (without top-mount helmet adapter) - camera cage for cx-100 made out of aluminum (similar to one made by Blink) -cx-100 the first problem that i have is how to attache flatlock mount to the round surface of the helmet? I thought about buying cookie adapter, but i do not know which one will fit, plus with shipping to canada it becomes pretty expensive (it can get up to $80 with shipping, duties and custom clearance) especially if i need to ship it back and forth to figure out which one fits. So I need your help in figuring out what options do I have to DIY something like cookie adapter The first I idea that came to my mind was to do something similar to what Ronaldo showed a while ago on this forum http://cid-b5905376ce73cf21.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Capacete%20freefly%20%5E5Free%20Fly%20camera%20helmet%5E6/Suporte%20fotografica%20008.jpg (I also attached three pics from this link) But I am not sure I understand why he made a master mold and then used it to make the part instead of just making a part right on the helmet. and I do not know what type of rasin would work best. Do you think the following approach would work: -cover helmet with shrink wrap (to release the part) -make a form from cardboard or balsa wood right on the helmet using playdough for support and sealing any cracks (instead of just playdough in Renaldo's case) -use bondo fiberglass resin jelly (is there anything better for this job?) -put thin (1mm-1.5mm) sheet of aluminum cut to size on top of bondo. -clean up edges after it dries -attach finished part to helmet together with flatlock using bolts in a similar fashion to cookie adapter Is there any easier way to solve the problem? "Gravity is a habit that is hard to shake off" Terry Pratchett, "Small Gods"