Blink

Here's a video of someone trying to land with rears and stalls/collapses the canopy on final: http://www.skydivingmovies.com/ver2/pafiledb.php?action=file&id=7187&string=collapse

Thanks for the reference DSE, although that doesn't say much about the quality comparison, except for speculation. I've attached a comparison I found elsewhere. If you're interested and have lots of time to read, a friend pointed me here: 16 Pages: http://forums.skateperception.com/index.php?showtopic=217875 54 Pages: http://forums.skateperception.com/index.php?showtopic=209966 There's some good information there, don't mind the annoying repetitive posts.

Bump. Did anyone happen to get a look at the Opteka 0.3X lense at NAB? Thanks!

One proper way to secure toggles, page 20: http://performancedesigns.com/docs/MainUsersManual.pdf Corrected.

My Opinion: Javelin Odyssey Sabre2 150 PDR 143 Vigil II

Are you asking because you want to buy one or are you asking if Sunpath makes something bigger than a J4K? If you are looking to buy one, check the classifieds, otherwise Sunpath has a sizing chart on their website: http://sunpath.com/sizchart.htm

Does the hood have threads to mount a filter? Just wondering if there's anyway to protect the glass.

There's a "Gear" tab on the top of this website that has reviews for all types of equipment, including reserves. http://www.dropzone.com/gear/Main_and_Reserve_Parachutes/index.shtml Two popular reserves: Smart: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/gear/review.cgi?ID=423 PDR: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/gear/review.cgi?ID=24 Also, the search button on the top right can be very helpful: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=search_results&search_forum=all&search_string=reserve&sb=score&mh=25

It is used to widen the view.

If you go to the Schneider website: http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=1069&IID=1754 And click on "Physical Specs" it tells you the various sizes, and what filter size it takes. (Just another reference)

They Century Optics website has merged with the parent company website: Schneider Optics. 0.30: http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=1069&IID=1755 0.55: http://www.schneideroptics.com/ecommerce/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?CID=1069&IID=1754

A friend of mine sent me this modification for Raynox HD lense. He was trying to get something similar to the Baby Death. Just thought I'd share: 1)Taking off the ring The front (top) ring DOES come off. After and hour and a half of trying to get it off, I manged to. The trick is to place it right under a work light or a heater (anything VERY hot) and let it sit for a while. That way the metal will expand. The lamp won't produce ultra-violet so dont be worried about the lens getting damaged. Once the lens is REALLY hot, use something to protect your hands (i recommend gloves) and twist the ring off. (Left Loosy|Righty Tighty) 2) Taking out the glass After the ring is off, heat the lens up again. This will let the second set of metal expand so you can take the glass out easily. Once the lens is heated, hold it upside-down over something soft (such as a bed) and tap the plastic so that the glass falls out. (if it doesnt come out that way, take a screw-driver and just tap on the plastic and it should fall out. 3) Taking out the Macro Now, all that's left is the plastic that holds the lens and the macro at the bottom. Take something, such as a knee hammer or a screwdriver butt, (the plastic end that you hold) and hit it a couple times from the bottom and it should just pop out. 4) Putting it back together Now, put the glass back inside and put the screw the ring back on (not as tight as it was before, just incase you need to get it off again) and you're good to go!! *NOTE* If you don't want a lot of vignetting, I suggest you leave the ring off. But leaving it off may cause the lens conver to not fit properly. *NOTE* There may be a lot of vignetting, so just zoom in a little when you're filming. It works GREAT with the GS500. He told me he did thing with the 3030/3032. I am curious if it would be less of a fish eye with the 5050, or if the only difference between the lenses is the macro lense.

http://www.cspa.ca/cwc/english/bcop.htm http://www.cspa.ca/cwc/english/forms/B-CoP.pdf

Two posts up... Plus, where's the fun in that? I enjoy designing and building my own stuff, rather than buying it off the shelf. Although it's not always as fast/easy, you get exactly what you want.

http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3508658;search_string=Pulse;#3508658 http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3491776;search_string=Pulse;#3491776 http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=search_results&search_forum=all&search_string=Pulse&sb=score&mh=25

I got my Sabre2 135 directly from PD after a re-line and I can pull the fronts down to my chest and the tail doesn't deflect. I don't think I could have fine tuned them any better myself. To stall it I have to hold them all the way down and wait a couple seconds. It's set up perfectly. (for me)

Wow, nice pictures, and great looking helmet. I was jumping back and forth between the idea of top mounting it with or without. I figured I would probably bump my head a few times, so a box was a good idea. Well, I just don't feel like handing over $200 for some CF and hinges, or plastic and bungee cords. Don't get me wrong, I think the manufactured boxes look great, and probably work just as good, but I just can't justify the cash, so I decided, I can come up with some sort of protection. The reason why I went with a cage design was because I am familiar with the materials and processes required to design and build one. I have never worked with any fibreglass, and don't know the first thing about it, so I ruled it out. I'm sure I could learn, but it would take a while, and would likely be more expensive than the cage. To each their own I guess. Regardless, beautiful helmet! You should type up some documentation and make a thread about the construction.

Yeah, there's going to be rad's all over the place, the only reason I didn't model them is because I used SketchUp to draw it, which isn't a real CAD program, and doesn't have a fillet option, so rads and fillits have to all be drawn it by hand. Just gives a rough idea of dimensions, size, and location of pieces.

Update: Well, between midterms, classes, and prep for finals, I'm managed to arrive at a final design (for now) pending testing. It's going to be machined out of square aluminum tubing to eliminate all joints and fasteners, and hopefully preserve structural strength. It's taken me a while because everytime I came up with a good idea/design, I came up with two reasons it wouldn't work. I guess it's better to realize it now instead of half way through the machining or assembly, frusterating none the less. The cage will be fastened to a special mounting plate that will act as a quick release by loosening two thumb screws. I should be machining it in about a month or so. Will continue to update the thread as I progress. In case anyone is interested in the evolution of the design, I have attached some of the revisions, although there were probably about twenty, I didn't save them all. Feel free to leave any feedback, good or bad.

What constitutes "real" slinks? PD Slinks? Aerodyne Softlinks? Precision Softlinks?

Saw this the other day. They are now advertising it: http://www.flyaerodyne.com/fly/products/sensei.asp

Is that a carabiner on your leg strap where the junction is with the lateral? If not, what is it, and what's it for?

Another option: http://cookiecomposites.com/shop/blackbox/73/index.htm Not released yet but apparently they're taking orders, looks nice. Edit: Thanks for making the address a link. I clicked on the underline tag instead of url tag.

I can only say good things about FF. My suit is built rock solid, and my next suit will be a FF. It's about time they got their site updated, I don't know how long it said "Under Construction." Looks great!

QuoteI don't know when it'll be shipping.reply] I got an email from Cookie the other day about the Padlock, they said about 4-6 weeks until shipping. (They're machining them right now.)