ctrph8

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Posts posted by ctrph8


  1. So I got my Optimum installed. It feels like a different rig. The PDR 160 does fit but the Optimum 160 fits sooo much better. My rig feels lighter and less like I'm carrying a brick around on my back.

    To surmise, an Optimum 176 will probably fit in there but the Optimum 160 would feel like the perfect fit. I like this so much I'm going to sell my PD reserve and my Tempo and start angling towards another Optimum.




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    I have a W-10 with a PD 160 in it. Right next to it is my new Optimum 160 that I plan to install this week. From what I can gather, an optimum 176 would fit about as well as my PD 160.



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    It's the weekend & Wings is closed - at 3pm on friday - ARGH!!

    Anyone have an Optimum in the Wing W10 Container? If so what size?

    I'm trying to determine what the largest/smallest Optimums I can correctly put in.

    Blue Skies.


  2. One of the concepts that helped me in my early days of belly flying was the idea that I was never just falling straight down. I was always going to be pushing a little bit towards the center of the formation, even if that formation is just two people. If you look at pictures of big way formations, those guys are completely focused on flying their slot as perfectly as they can. They are pretty much all driving in with their legs a little even though they are in the middle of a huge formation and they are not trying to "go" anywhere.






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    Since I have strayed a little off topic I'm going to ask one more question. During my AFF and several solo jumps afterwards I was able to fall straight down during free fall. Lately for some reason I can't seem to keep from "wandering around" in the air, especially backsliding. I retreat like I'm running from the herpes virus and it's getting to be quite frustrating. My legs feel like they always have but watching a video shows another story. Not only have they moved in but my entire body looks like a corps in full rigormortis. Legs, legs, legs is what I hear from the instructors but my ability to keep them out has vanished and I'm not sure why.

    Anyway, thanks again to everyone. here is the link to the A-CoP requirements.

    http://www.cspa.ca/en/cwc/cops/qaq-cop


  3. I'm going to be shopping for a container in the next year. That design would go with NONE of my stuff now but I'm really thinking about it. Maybe orange stitching and pinstripes?



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    Ya know what?


    ...I LIKE THAT! B|

    I saved the pic, next non-demonstration jumping-rig I get will probably be along those lines.

    Subtle yet very classy.

    Nice work...sorry no free ticky from ME though! ;)


  4. I saw pictures of a rig that I thought was really cool. The rig was essentially all black but it had red piping wherever piping was available and all of the stitching was red. Somehow the red thread on black binding tape looked really tricked out. On this one I threw in a red back pad too. You'll have to use your imagination with the red stitching but the piping is there.




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    Im ordering a new wings container and I cant seem to create a design that I love so I thought y'all might be able to help me out. Make a design on the wings website (http://skydivewings.com/PimpMyWings/), then take a screen shot of it and post the picture on this thread. After 3 days ill look at all the posts and ill buy a jump ticket for the person who submitted it.

    Rules
    1. Must be the original wings
    2. Cant have any tie dye on it unless you have some sweet connection that could hook it up for free
    3. The DZ must be in the US
    4. The jump has to be a normal 8-18k ft. jump ticket, not some 30000ft specialty jump

    If your doubting the fact that ill actually follow through I admit this does seem sketch, but even if I dont, youll spend maybe 5 minutes making a rig that could win you a free jump. I think the risk is worth it.

    THIS IS NOT A SCAM. After I choose the winner, ill call the DZ of their choosing and buy a jump ticket on the phone. I will not contact you aside from the congratulatory message and to get the name of your DZ.

    GOOD LUCK ;)


  5. I have a W-10 with a PD 160 in it. Right next to it is my new Optimum 160 that I plan to install this week. From what I can gather, an optimum 176 would fit about as well as my PD 160.



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    It's the weekend & Wings is closed - at 3pm on friday - ARGH!!

    Anyone have an Optimum in the Wing W10 Container? If so what size?

    I'm trying to determine what the largest/smallest Optimums I can correctly put in.

    Blue Skies.


  6. I think they have things worked out on the Sabre 2, but the Sabre 1 is a completely different animal. Until I got a lip sewed onto my slider, it was Russian Roulette at opening time. Most of the time it behaved nicely. The rest of the time it was trying to kill me... just a little at a time. Once the lip got sewn on, everything mellowed out.


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    I can tell you which isn't the softest opening canopy, and that would be my Sabre1. Forgot the roll the nose the other day and opening felt like a car crash.:S


  7. The center A lines take a lot of abuse during the opening sequence. If memory serves, I don't think I've ever seen broken lines on a tandem that were not center A lines. I seem to remember seeing some kind of problem with a worn out brake line once but I don't think it actually broke.




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    I mentioned this in another thread, but think it's worth its own thread.

    We had two Icarus 330 (bought new about April this year) that both broke a center A-line just where the cascade fingertrap ends. It looked the the cascade was property trimmed and not hot-knifed.

    Just wondering if anyone else has seen similar. I estimate 400-600 on the canopy and line-set.


  8. I've bought used gear through Chuting Star but I've never sold anything. Chuting Star has a cool program. They take a look at the gear, figure out what it's worth, sell it, take a small commission and send you your money. It's a good deal for everyone because they inspect everything and give an honest outside opinion of what it is worth. They put it on their website and mail it out to the buyer.

    Also, because they have a reputation to maintain, they are very honest. I bought a used reserve from them and they listed out everything that made it less than perfect. It had a patch and they included pictures of it in the description. When I got it there were no surprises.

    Just call them, arrange to mail them your stuff and wait for your money!




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    Hey, all...

    I haven't jumped in a couple of years... wondering if there is still a market for some of this stuff:

    Neptune altimeter
    Pro-Track
    Bonehead Gunner helmet
    Oxygn Helmet

    Thoughts?


  9. The less a canopy comes in contact with water, the better. If you absolutely have to (like you landed in the ocean or covered it with mud) use fresh water. I've heard of people using things like a very small amount of Woolite but I wouldn't. Each manufacturer has worked out the least invasive way to wash their canopies. Call them!

    Try not to wash the seams too vigorously. There are lots of different materials in a canopy besides 0-P or F-111. Sometimes they shrink but the materials around them don't.

    If you have no other choices, soak the canopy and keep the lines out of the water as much as possible. Empty the water and soak it again to rinse. If I am trying to get the salt out of a canopy from being in the ocean, I actually taste the canopy in a few places to tell if all of the salt is off of the fabric. Let the water do the work. The less you scrub or agitate the canopy the less you will mess with the coatings on the fabric.

    Hang the canopy by the tail (as opposed to the lines) to dry it. Try not to let any one part take the weight of the entire wet canopy. All of that water is heavy and can distort the shape of a canopy. If it is a small canopy, a distortion can make for some really exciting moments. Hang it in a cool, dry, ventilated place. Fans help. The seams will dry much more slowly than the fabric. If the fabric is dry but the seams feel damp, let it hang. Don't pack that wetness into your rig. Mold sucks!

    Ivory soap is probably not a good idea. Again, try not to wash the coatings off of your canopy.


    To the OP: You really can jump the stink out of it. Sometimes rigs just smell rank if they have been sitting for a while. The more you jump them the less they stink.


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    RIGGERS - please give your opinions on the following:

    Bar of Ivory Soap.
    Cheese Grater
    About a quarter of a bar into small bits.
    Place in a mister bottle and let soak until it all becomes liquid.
    Some spritzes deep into in each cell, top skin and bottom skin.
    IMMEDIATELY rinse off entire canopy. Rinse it off a lot.
    Hang out to air dry with a big fan if possible (out of the sun)

    DISCLAIMER: While I've done it on ZP; that don't make it right.


  10. The Neurosurgeon is definitely the place to start. Chiropractors are fantastic and certainly have their place, but I'm betting that if that had worked, we wouldn't be having this discussion. As a rule, the Neurosurgeons are not looking for reasons to do surgery, but this sort of thing is what they deal with every day. Chances are that they will start with pain management and physical therapy before moving on to more invasive treatments.

    Every person is different so what was appropriate for one person might not be appropriate for anyone else. This means that you will hear a thousand stories from well meaning people telling you exactly what they did and what you HAVE to do. Take it all with a grain of salt.

    I had spinal surgery almost 4 months ago and have been skydiving regularly for the last 3 months. I'm not 100% pain free but I can work and play and have taken nothing stronger than Advil since then. The methods they are using have improved so much over the last few years. They sent me home that day and I didn't even have a bandage. It was amazing. 6 or 8 years ago that would have had a much different ending.

    One of the lessons that I learned though this was that if the physical therapists tell you to do something (and it will almost always be something unpleasant), do it. If they tell you to do something 3 times a day, do it 4. If they want 10 reps, do 15 of the most perfect reps you can do. The conditioning they will want you to do is really important. In my case, the pain didn't go away but my mobility got MUCH better. I also suspect that the conditioning helped speed my recovery.

    Again, my condition, surgery, recovery and treatment may not relate at all to your current situation but from someone who has been down this long road, there are options out there.



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    I'm a TI with around 800-1000 tandems. For the last couple of years I've experienced neck pain at one point during the year that set me back for a week or so. This year I'm on my second flair up with more continuous pain over the last two weeks that comes and goes. Got an MRI that revealed 2 bulged discs in the mid back area of my spine and a "partially ruptured" disc much higher up at the base of my neck. I can't get a straight answer out of the chiropractor. He assures me that no one will operate surgically until the disc is completely blown out. Health care absolutely sucks where I live and I'm not exactly sure what type of doctor I should be seeing. I'm extremely concerned that at age 29 I've got an irreparable condition that will prevent me from doing what I love for the rest of my life.

    Anyone experienced issues like this in the past? How did you get through it and what was your overall recovery time? Suggestions?


  11. I've been using a velcro keeper on the collar of my jumpsuits for years now. It's not a perfect system but somehow I liked it better than on my rig.


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    Just looking for a few opinions. The reserve flap seems quite wide to put a sky tie on my Voodoo. im not a huge fan of the rubber band ball method though not completely opposed to it. Is there something im overlooking on the magnetic system? How do you guys do it?


  12. With most modern canopies, the manufacturers have tamed the openings quite a bit. I'm sure there are exceptions but most manufacturers don't recommend rolling the nose on modern canopies. From what I can see in the Aerodyne manual, they don't mention it. Just flake the nose and keep it neat and orderly when you are packing it.

    The same principals for any good pack job still apply regardless of which packing method you are using. The end result of your pack job should be very symmetrical, the slider should be firmly seated in place and your lines should be straight and neat. One of the things that I've learned is that when I go to lay the canopy down, I do it very gently. Flopping it onto the ground can undo all of the careful work you just put in to it.

    Something else you might consider is that your body position on opening can have a lot to do with the way your canopy opens. You should be flying your body all the way through the opening. You might be surprised at the trend your openings take if you are really mindful of being relaxed and symmetrical through those last few seconds of freefall.


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    Hi,

    I have a few questions, firstly has anyone had any problems using this method and it seems like it works just fine. I was wondering if you do anything with the cells. In this Youtube clip he rolls 4 cells to the left, 4 to the right and leaves the center cell open with the slider.


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qICN19uaRE

    Do you do anything like this? The reason I ask is that this canopy snivels a lot so I don't want to do anything that adds to this.

    Apart from tucking the slider a bit, is there anything I can do to reduce the snivel ? If I could get consistent 800' openings then I'd be happy.


    Last question is about end cells. In about one opening in five I find that the end cells open unevenly. What seems to happen is that it will sit for a short period of time unil the slider comes down and the end cells will inflate on one side more than the other. This will induce a 1/4 to 1/2 line twist. It seems to happen on the slower openings.

    So... does anyone see this problem and if so do you do anything special to prevent it ?

    Thanks.


  13. Definitely find a better rigger.

    More than that though, see if you can put a couple of jumps on the rig. If it fits and the gear is appropriate for you size wise, this could be a good thing. Go play with it before you make any decisions.

    There are plenty of riggers out there who will talk with you objectively about your gear questions. If you are not getting real answers, that's a clue.

    Talk with the last rigger who packed it. They were the last person to inspect the gear and can talk with you about the general condition of it.






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    Recently I have been offered to purchase a Racer sport rig with everything except the main. I mentioned it to the rigger where I packed and he just cringed. I've been told to STAY AWAY.

    Why?


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    I am a bit tall and skinny and have been told I need to think about a weight belt to help in RW.

    I am not flexable enough to have a wide range of options with my arch. My lower back has given me a little trouble over the years but so far in skydiving it is not an issue. But I don't want to expose my back to any more stress than is required.

    I was wondering if anyone had worked toward the goal to allow the main lift web to take on the weight of a weight belt so that during opening the weight belt load is pulling on the harness and not compressing the jumper's lower body.





    Weights might help but my first thought was that the right suit might help more than just adding weight. Go for something slick and tight. Also, as you progress you are going to get better at flying your body and controlling how much of it is out in the wind. You can get really small without going into a hard arch.

    I've seen people attach things to the MLW that could either mess with the handles in free fall or make for an awkward pull if you had to use them. Things shift around in free fall that looked great on the ground. Better to wear them as a vest. At this point in your learning I don't think that attaching them to your harness will change your experience much except to possibly impede some of your emergency procedures.

  15. I was thinking that Hand Gliding was when you drove fast with your arm out the window and making airplane noises... In which case the goggles would be perfect.





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    What is "military rang"?



    I was more worried trying to figure out how the goggles might save you if you tried to go 'hand gliding'.


  16. There are a lot of variables there. Assuming the rig is well maintained and is in good shape, I'd say that it should work as well as a newer rig and the malfunction rate should be the same. I'm not addressing older main canopies at all here. Each one has it's own temperament.

    There is a limit to this though. Really old rigs obviously are not as safe as the newer ones. Belly band pilot chutes, capewells and 5 cell reserves all worked... most of the time, but I'm grateful that technology has moved past these.

    The newer rigs probably have some technologies built in that the older ones don't have that will significantly improve your chances. RSLs, MARD systems, modern AADs and some tweaks in the reserve pilot chutes have all pushed things in the right direction. YMMV. Of course none of those things will prevent malfunctions but if you do have one, your odds go up. The newer rigs are built for higher speeds and present less opportunity for a premature deployment.

    I'd say that if you are looking for a rig, try for the newest rig you can afford but don't discount an older one without talking with a rigger about it. Pretty much anything (that is well maintained and in serviceable condition) within the last decade would be a good bet but again, you really need to be doing this with the help of a rigger. There is a lot of cheap gear that is cheap for a reason or just not right for you.

  17. I had a lip sewn onto my Sabre 150 and it fixed all of that. It became a very well behaved canopy afterwards. Got one sewn onto a foul tempered Para Flite Turbo Z too.



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    Ther dimensions ARE of the latest slider (as found on PD website), but it still opens brutally hard... That is why I was looking for another solution.


  18. This isn't exactly what you are talking about but here goes: When I was going through my rigger training I borrowed an old Racer that had lived a heroic and hard life to practice packing. During the inspection I found that all of the hardware had rusted and that some of it had been slowly sawing through the harness in places until it was retired. Nothing was cut all the way through but if memory serves, I'd guess that there were places in the webbing that were 25% degraded.

    I also seem to remember a Vector where the adapter for the chest strap had done the same thing and was cutting through the attachment point.

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    If someone is willing to put the time and energy into really learning to fly their canopy, we should reward that with letting them fly a canopy more suited to what they perceive as the best canopy for them.



    The question is, what are they basing that perception on? I can base my perception of how different canopies fly on my experience flying them, and seeing the differences. Unless you've flown 'them all', you can't really say which ones are, or aren't, good for you. You could guess, but if you guess wrong, the consequences can be dire.

    So even if someone has education, their ability to handle a canopy remains unknown until they try it. So the best method to dealing with this is to ensure that jumpers start at an appropriate level, and move one step at a time while taking an appropriate level of time at each step.

    Without the steps, and some sort of requirement for time on each step, you could have jumpers making 5 or 10 jumps on one size before downsizing. In my book, that hardly 'proves' their ability to handle that size, and certainly doesn't allow them sufficient time to truely acclimate to the new canopy.




    I think the key here is that they will have done the work first and then have the option to downsize. It might even be more than one size down too. If a guy my size went from a 230 down to a 190 it might (or might not) be a bit of a stretch but not unreasonable. I just think if someone is willing to go through the training and demonstrate a proficiency with the concepts AND execution of it, that should count for something towards being able to choose the canopy that is right for them.

    Also, every one of us who tried a smaller/different canopy has had a time in their lives when they had not tried that canopy. The remedy for that is actually getting out there, trying things and learning. I only speak for myself here but I've tried lots of canopies and purchased many fewer.

    Jump numbers alone are not the answer. Education and demonstration of that knowledge is the answer. We all know a version of "that guy" who has a ton of jumps and no clue.

    I still hold that if someone can show that they have mastered the skill set, they should be rewarded for their work with the freedom to make a wider set of choices for themselves.

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    What I would suggest would be a way to test out of the requirements... or at least into a higher bracket. If someone has the skills and has done the work, let them prove it and move into a more appropriate canopy as they see it



    How is that different than we have now? Currently, jumpers have to pass the opinion of the 'powers that be', be that the S&TA, the DZO, or head instructor. The end result is that someone is in charge of what is inappropriate, and that person's opinion becomes the standard.

    If a jumper is dedicated enough, they'll blow through the WL chart in short order, and be up to a 'sporty' WL in 300/400 jumps.





    I think that's kind of the point. If someone is willing to put the time and energy into really learning to fly their canopy, we should reward that with letting them fly a canopy more suited to what they perceive as the best canopy for them. There is a lot of education that goes into it. That isn't to say that they WILL need a smaller canopy, just that they could if that is what worked best for them.

    Also, I like that there is a human factor in determining some of these things. I can't speak for other drop zones, but the ones I've spent the most time at have very active S&TAs. I think this is a much better idea than an arbitrary number.

  21. This whole thing sticks in my craw. Jumping at a high wind drop zone, these requirements would be prohibitive and particularly so for the lighter jumpers. I don't have the numbers to back this up, but the wing loading here is higher than the proposed limitations and this generally works well for us.

    What I would suggest would be a way to test out of the requirements... or at least into a higher bracket. If someone has the skills and has done the work, let them prove it and move into a more appropriate canopy as they see it. The arbitrary jump numbers as indicators of ability could be a base line but if someone can test out early, let that be an option.

    When I first bought a Saber in 1992 I was the only person at our drop zone with a zero P canopy. These discussions were rampant except instead of wing loading, it was canopy material.... That I was a 100 jump wonder and was jumping a Wonderhog was entirely beside the point. ;)

  22. I loved my Stiletto. I moved on to Crossfire 2s and won't ever look back but I still think the Stiletto is a good canopy. My openings were getting ugly. They canopy was on it's last legs and I blamed it on that but when I got my Crossfire I was still occasionally getting erratic openings. When I changed pilot chutes (by moving it to a different rig) everything clicked.

    My pilot chute looked fine and the kill line was still in great shape but the mesh had elongated in places and the pilot chute wouldn't hold it's original shape under load. My theory is that the openings were not as staged because the pilot chute was not holding the load evenly.

    When I got another one (Jim Cazer actually traded my old one in on a new one) everything smoothed out.

    I bring this up only to say that you should check your pilot chute when you go through it with your rigger. If you get it relined, I just got great service and an excellent reline from MEL at Skyworks Rigging. Sending it to PD has it's advantages too. ;)



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    I currently jump a Stiletto 120. I have made about 300-400 jumps on this stiletto and jumped a Stiletto 135 before. I’m a small girl and load it maybe 1.2 wearing weights. I love my Stiletto except for the openings. I have had quite a lot of slammers no matter who packs it, and the occasional spinning diving line twist! :ph34r: I love the flying characteristic of the Stiletto. I love getting back to the dz after a long spot and I love the recovery arch of the Stiletto. I don’t want to swoop but I want a zippy canopy like the Stiletto.

    I am looking for a replacement for my Stiletto. I don’t want to downsize, but I want something similar with better more forgiving openings. I have asked a few people at my dz but want to hear the opinions of dz.comers.