ctrph8

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Posts posted by ctrph8


  1. I meant that all things being equal, a skyhook accomplishes it faster. Different rigs, different jumpers and different canopies would not be a reliable way to determine what was faster. I have no idea whether or not any of those were the same or different beyond the obvious difference in rig manufacturers. In that case, the Racer was faster. If you were comparing a skyhook equipped Javelin to an RSL equipped Javelin with the same jumper and same reserve canopies, that would give some useful information.






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    My view is that under most conditions, an RSL would work just fine. The Skyhook just accomplishes it faster.



    Not necessarily, See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ze0Rcp7E0to


  2. My next rig will have one. An RSL and a MARD system accomplish the same thing but do it differently. My view is that under most conditions, an RSL would work just fine. The Skyhook just accomplishes it faster. This would be no big deal at altitude but if you are super low and every last foot counts, I'd prefer a Skyhook.



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    I am in the process of building a new rig and I am trying to decide whether or not to put a skyhook in it. I would like to hear your thoughts and input on skyhooks and if you have used one please tell me about it.


  3. Earlier this year I packed an old Firelite. It was in beautiful condition and only been packed a few times. However, as nice as it was, it was still made of really porous F-111 and would probably land much harder than a "modern" F-111 reserve of the same size. Every time I see one of the older ones I want to go hug my Optimum.

    I can probably get you the Firelite for real cheap ;)

    Does anyone know what they are calling the Optimum material? It's not any of the variations of F-111... That I know of. I don't think you can buy raw material and if you need to do a patch it has to go back to PD.



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    they are supposed to fly more like modern parachutes than traditional 7 cell F-111 parachutes.

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    Reading the incident reports, aren't 'modern parachutes' a little gamey to land at times? I'll stick with tradition thanks anyway. ;)


  4. Neither. Right now I'm very impressed with the PD Optimum. It is more money but they are supposed to fly more like modern parachutes than traditional 7 cell F-111 parachutes. They also pack smaller. I went from a PD-160R to an Optimum 160. I'm selling off my other reserves to buy another one.

    That being said, I don't have any experience with an AngelFire reserve. Jumpshack has a reputation for quality products and for doing things right... except their website which is stuck in the 90's. PD has made thousands and thousands of reserves that have been time tested. You would get a safe and durable product from either company. You would probably get a better product in terms of flight characteristics with an Optimum.

  5. I did most of my early skydiving at a Cessna DZ where the ground elevation was 4000 feet MSL. 8000 feet AGL was the norm. We did a static line progression and worked our way up to 8000 feet as soon as we could. There was plenty of time as a student going to that altitude.

    The first time I went to a turbine DZ I was absolutely amazed that you can get on the plane, get to 13000 ft and do it in less than 15 minutes.


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    Just wondering, what sort of student jump are you planning to do from 8000ft AGL? Student jumps tend to come in two varieties - first is the SL/IAD in which the canopy is opened right as you leave the plane so the exit atlitude is generally between 2500 and 4500 ft agl.

    The other is the AFF type, which adds freefall training and uses exit altitudes between 10k and 13k agl, mostly depending on the plane (182s don't like to climb much above 10k/11k). The reason for this is that if you're going to train in freefall, you want as much time as possible to get though the learning objectives for the jump. Doing AFF from 8k makes for a very tight schedule trying to get all the learning in before pull time.


  6. If I understand you correctly, you are moving up one size for your reserve but going to an Optimum from an F-111 reserve and you are keeping your current main? If that is the case, you should be fine at least for right now. Nothing should change much. It might even pack a little bit easier into your container... A little bit.

    If you are going to upsize your main, get a demo for a couple of weeks. It is a cheap way to try out some cool gear and if it turns out to be a pain in the ass to pack then you need to weigh out the cost of a new/different container vs the strife of cramming that thing into the container for the next few years.




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    :$

    So being older, I decided to commit to a upsizing of my reserve...OP 218 and continue with a Sabre 2 190. The question is should I belive the sizing chart and plan on a M3 a year from now and trust that Full Fitting is an ok thing to just trust UPT or do I use some common sense and say to myself their idea of full fitting and a little cement I can build a foundation. So the real question is HAS ANYONE put a full fitting main and full fitting reserve, NOT IN A MICRON, but in a regular 310 + V3 and have a no problem outcome??? Ya I know everyone is downsizing these days, but I an't gettin any younger...

    Thanks, Chris


  7. This comes up a lot. The short answer is that there is no "Best" container. There are a lot of good ones with different pros and cons but really, they are minor. All of the major container manufacturers put out a great product. The older Javelins had the problem with the flap opening up but that has been fixed for a while.

    The skydivers who are in the public eye and who do this day in and day out primarily use Javelins and Vectors and Mirage. They also use LOTS of other stuff but I see more folks using those than anything else.

    Here are the basics for whatever container you buy:
    Get one that is sized for your canopies, not the canopies you are hoping to be able to jump in a few years.

    Get your measurements done by somebody who has done this before. DON'T DO IT YOURSELF!

    Darker colors wear better and sell quickly.

    Get the safety options (an RSL at the very least or a Skyhook) They are not perfect systems but your odds go up if you are using them.

    Check their delivery times. Vectors were running 37 weeks for delivery where most of the others were 10-14. Vector owners will say that that it is worth the wait. Everybody else will console themselves with getting to jump for most of a season with their new gear.

    Most of the websites have good information about their products. A few (I'm looking at you Jumpshack) have a great product but you'd never know it from their website or online presence. The Mirage Facebook page puts out photos every week of recent rigs and it's a really good way to get ideas for creating your own rig.




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    A good friend of mine reccomended the javelin odyseey to me…alot of the reviews however complain about the main flap opening up. Theres so many mixed reviews on almost every type of make and model rig…I just cant filter out the main takeaways…someone help guide me towards the best option, $$ not an obstacle…just need to understand what will be the most comfortable, safest design. Period.


  8. I was under the impression that there was a 6 month window before and after the 4 year date to take care of the maintenance. Following that line, could someone legally jump the rig for 4 years and 5 months after the date of manufacture?


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    No it will not give you an error code. Neither will a CYPRES1. But as already mentioned it's illegal to jump with an AAD that is over its scheduled maint. period.


  9. Not having seen it, I'd guess about 500 for the reserve and $500-700 for the container depending on how well preserved it is and whether it has lots of bells and whistles and looks pretty new. If it looks like a 13 year old container, then closer to $500 even with the bells and whistles.

    Drew is right about the span-wise reinforcements in that you would rather have a reserve with them than without them. However, Tempo reserves have been time tested and have done very well over the years. It is not the best reserve you can buy but they do work. If money is a concern, I wouldn't shy away from one. Do what you have to to get in the air then you can wheel and deal your way into better gear. There are certainly better technologies out there but if your rigger says it will save your life, believe him. If money is less of a concern, go with an Optimum.

    In the last month I've jumped rigs with a '97 Tempo 150, '03 PD 143 and '11 Optimum 160. I had no hesitation at all to jump any of them.




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    So im looking at this rig and its a '99 Infinity with a '97 Tempo 210

    NO main
    NO ADD

    the guy is asking $1400 for the entire setup. I asked some of the guys at the DZ and they said its okay, so I wanted to get the opinion of the internet.


  10. I don't use Cypres silicone very often but one afternoon I played with the idea of whether I could create a hard pull scenario if there was silicone on the very top of the loop. In short, I couldn't. To be fair, I didn't try very many times to do this and was leery of putting my rig through that more than those few times.

    I never came to any real conclusions other than the thought that it has some effect in the moment and that I didn't know much beyond what I'd seen that afternoon.

    Has anyone played with this? If so, does anyone know if the effects of the silicone can wear off so that it could be a pull within the limits at the time of packing but get harder to pull later?




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    Is it possible to create a hard pull from pin tension alone? Or would pin tension just contribute to other possible problems with the cable, cable housing, to cause a hard pull?

    Of course varying pin tension will require more or less strength to pull the pin, but what would it take to put enough tension on the pin to cause a catastrophically hard pull?

    Is it possible to close a reserve (e.g with a leverage device) so tightly that a main pilot chute would not be able to pull the pin - e.g via an RSL/Skyhook when cutting away from a high-speed malfunction like a baglock?


  11. Funny you mention that. Recently I was trying to wheel and deal my way into a Sabre 2 170 and have not been able to make this work... for cheap of course.





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    ...Assuming the gear is in the kind of shape the seller says it is in, that still seems a little high... In the ball park but a little high...

    ...This is probably great gear but there is sooo much gear out there waiting for a new home...



    Yes and no, IMO.

    There really isn't a lot of gear out with big enough main and reserves for beginners. It's going to command a premium.

    And it's going to go fairly fast.

    Try finding a Sabre2 170. Same situation (I know that one from personal experience).


  12. Pretty much all of the major canopy manufacturers have a demo program. For a small fee or maybe just shipping, they will send you a canopy to try out. It will give you an idea about how these things fly and what works for you. As an added bonus, the manufacturers will just talk with you about what your needs are and try to steer you in a direction that will meet those needs safely.



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    True. I don't jump at a large DZ so accessing the canopies isn't necessarily going to be easy, but definitely something I'll ask about.

    On the plus side, I'm in no rush to try them so I have patience and time on my side!!


  13. This is definitely a discussion that your local rigger needs to be a part of. That being said, if we break it down this is what I see:
    $800 for a 10 year old reserve
    $1500 for a 10 year old Javelin
    $1500 for a 10 year old Spectre.

    Assuming the gear is in the kind of shape the seller says it is in, that still seems a little high... In the ball park but a little high.

    If you and your rigger decide that this is the gear for you, make him an offer.

    This is probably great gear but there is sooo much gear out there waiting for a new home. Don't get sucked into the idea that this is the only gear for you. There are lots of options. Putting up an ad in the classifieds saying that you are looking for a particular component will bring all kinds of replies. You can build the perfect rig for where you are in your skill level.


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    Sorry about that I totally forgot to mention that stuff. Everything in the rig was made in 2002 and the seller claims that it only has 100 jumps but who knows about that.


  14. Mine did that too. It was a problem in the first visors they put out with the new helmet design. Cookie will replace it. Send them the picture of it and just talk with them. I bought mine through Chuting Star and they had a replacement in the mail to me in no time.

    While you are waiting you can remove it, wash it in warm soapy water and dry it with a microfiber towel. The stuff that is crackling off is the anti fog coating. When you wash it off fogging will be an issue but some RainX anti-fog will work as a short term fix.





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    Hey Guys!

    Having a big issue with my new, fresh out of the box, G3 Cookie Helmet.

    As soon as I put it on to make sure it fits and just to get a feel of it myself, I noticed some very strange reaction to it.

    At the exact place I was breathing on my visor, inside, something started to peel off.

    At first, I thought it was some protective plastic screen that you had to removed, but quickly realize it wasn't the case.

    As you can see on my picture, it was some kind of plastic melting. I took a soft cloth and some water, and gently started to clean it off... and it just made things worst... it spread all over my visor.

    Now before the "cancer", as I call it, invade all the inside of my visor, I touched it and it was very smooth, just like the outside. After the "cancer" was all over it and I gently and soft rubbed it off. the inside became rough.

    After an hour of clean, wipe and repeat I finally manage to get rid of most of it ... but it because clear that it was some fog protection that had the problem cause after 10 sec of my head inside it, it became very foggy, fast!

    I was wondering if you guys had any tips? I used the little anti-fog wipe they give you and it still didn't work.
    Someone told me Pledge was good for that.

    Or should I just wait for the Cookie people to reply to my email? Hoping this will help me out.


  15. We've been feeding the troll.





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    You guys are right, fuck him he's not worth the trouble.

    Sparky



    the only info that the person lists is 150 jumps and military experience

    Would you not agree that if it's a 120lbs person, a OP143 would not be a terrible choice ?

    carriage------- horse
    <------------ direction of movement



    And what do you think the chances are he is less than 150 out the door? He said he was in the military, didn’t say anything about military experience in jumping.

    Sparky



    I have no idea what those chances are, but I have dealt with a number of dudes who were pretty lightweight.

    What I was pointing out is that you are assuming that the person would be overloading the OP143 beyond what's safe for their skill level. And that may not be the case, yet you make an absolute statement as if know some facts that are not presented to us by the OP.

    Notice how I am not answering your question ? it's because I have no idea, and I prefer not to make wild assumptions.


  16. A very good point! His question was about where, not whether he should buy one.

    To the OP: Since price is going to be about the same across the board for the canopy, I'd go for good service.

    For the record, I got mine at Chutingstar as well.





    weird, i dont recall him asking about wingloading or safety advice.........


  • Except that everyone who answered his question was probably right.




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    Do not, under any circumstance, solicit or listen to advice on the internet. Ever. Period. End of discussion.
    The internet is for:
    1) Pr0n
    2) Videos of pets
    3) Stalking you ex on facebook
    4) Buying stuff you don't need with money you don't have
    5) Unleashing an all caps rant about how much you hate/love a TV show (or celebrity or band...)
    6) Finding random occurrences on Google StreetView
    7) Searching for obscure facts to win an argument, on principle.
    8) Trolling other users' posts on forums and hijacking the thread (kind of like this post)
    9) More pr0n

    As it relates to skydiving:
    1) Find out about or organize events
    2) Organize carpool to boogies
    3) Market "awesome" videos
    4) Wild speculations about incidents
    5) Wingsuit brand wars
    6) NSFW threads
    7) Pictures/Videos/Announcements about skydiving related stuff that the general media misses or gets wrong or covers superficially.
    8) Get ideas and advice from people who you already know and are qualified to answer them.
    9) DB Cooper stuff
    The list goes on, but nowhere on that list will you find an entry that says " Solicit advice from random people about how to do something that could potentially kill me"

    All questions of that nature should be directed to: Instructor, rigger, DZO, S&TA. Or someone who has any authority and could get in trouble for giving you the wrong advice.

    If I was a moderator here, This thread goes directly to "gear and rigging" with a stern warning that anyone who answers this had better be a rigger verified by a moderator. I err on the side of caution.


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    Hey guys, I am interested in learning to skydive, my whole life I have been fastenated with flight and I can finally acheive the dream of being one of the people I used to look at with wonder and amazement as they soared through the sky. Iam considering several different methods of flight such as paragliding, Hang gliding, and powered paragliding. I was wondering if anyone could give me a few tips and suggestions as to the price of gear and the price it costs to jump after training and gear are obtained. any help would be appreciated......Ezra



    I'd do a tandem in each category. You might find that you like one more than another.

    The problem with hang gliding and powered paragliding is that they are VERY gear intensive. You can't just have that thing in the back seat of the car. If you want to go hang gliding, you have to work out some logistics. They are huge and you probably are not going to be landing where you parked your truck.

    Powered paragliders are smaller but still not going to fit in the back seat. If you do go with a powered paraglider, GET REAL TRAINING, lots of it. Everybody thinks that because they can fly "X" (fill in whatever other air sport you like) that they can just step in to powered paragliding. There are a lot of broken people and people who had nasty scares because they missed a step somewhere. I'm not saying don't do it, just do it under an instructional program. All of these sports grow new participants because the mentors are there to impart safety aspects that the new folks might not have thought about.

    Of course that goes for the rest of your options as well but lack of training has been a big problem in the powered paraglider world.

    My vote is for skydiving or paragliding. I do both but have had a hard time keeping current in both.

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    Interesting observation. I'm going to have a longer chat with the local rigger. He doesn't like that method of pilot chute packing due to a potential for a hard pull. Until this weekend I used to pack the.way you recommend. I love the discussions when they get to trading off between hard choices - makes you think.:)




    Brian's Response:

    Hard pull? I have been packing my pilotchutes this way for more than twenty five years, and I have never had a hard pull. I even use oversized F-111 pilotchutes due to a high frequency of hop-n-pops. Further, I have never heard of anyone having a hard a hard pull from this packing method. You mentioned that you have been packing this way. Have you ever experienced a hard pull from this method? Anyone?

    I say, always go with your gut. If your instincts have been telling you to pack this way, keep doing it. If you have a hard pull, let me know. Unless you have a cordura pouch, your risks of a hard pull are very low regardless of how you pack, due to the elasticity of the spandex. Don't let others dissuade you from what your gut is telling you, ever. Even if you are wrong, at least you are honoring your instincts.

    My 2 cents...





    I have a theory about one of the ways the hard pull fears got started.

    When I was a beginning packer I was packing for a guy who had pull out rigs. They were really tight. I had a pull out at the time but the container had lots of room in it so I had not really thought much about this. One day I packed him a total. When he got down we figured out that I did not leave him enough slack in the bridle to actually extract the pin. In my rig it didn't matter because my pack jobs were not as tight and allowed for movement... or I just managed to pack him the perfect storm. Either way, it was a lesson learned.

    Fast forward to today's discussion. In the method we are talking about, the bridle looks a bit like the pull out bridles but the mechanism is entirely different. The pull is from above and there is never a chance that my scenario could happen.

    My suspicion is that many of the fears we are seeing are from people who learned good info about how to effectively pack pull outs but trying to apply it to the throw out system... or more likely, applying the lesson to the wrong scenario because it looks a little like what we remembered.

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    has anyone tried this method with a Infinity rig. I called them but they didnt know about it and said i was welcome to try it at my own risk.





    I packed one on Sunday that way. It works just fine. Pretty much it is the same closing sequence for all of these containers. There are a few exceptions but in general it is the same across the board.

  • A good rule of thumb is to watch how the more experienced people handle their gear. If you don't see many people flat packing, that's a clue. Watch the packers. Later, offer beer or some cash to someone who is both good at packing and good at teaching. They may or may not accept anything for it but it is good form. The next step is to start packing at home in your living room over and over. You'll figure out your sticking points. Then do it under adult supervision.

    Also, rely less on the internet and more on local talent to get you where you need to be with your learning.




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    was watching Pack like a PRO...have not tried packing yet, we'll get to that later, but it looks like the side pack method would be easier, and it is supposed to be a reliable method that produces good opens, so why don't more people use it?


  • It is supposedly lower bulk than colored canopies. The theory is that the darker colors are bulkier than lighter ones. I don't think anyone has been able to accurately measure out how much more bulky colored fabrics are but I think the general consensus is that it does pack marginally smaller... Marginally.


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    Get your reserve in white fabric...



    Why?


  • Chest mount reserves can be smaller but can also be as big or bigger. There really isn't much to a chest mounted reserve container. It is 4 flaps, a deployment system which might or might not have a pilot chute, a canopy and some risers. They are not trying to make it comfortable or flat against your back. A back style parachute also has the harness, a cutaway system, the deployment system, padding (maybe) and is usually meant to be wide and flat for comfort. There is a lot of other stuff in there besides canopy which makes it look big as compared to a chest mount.


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    Just curious why the front mounted reserve parachutes appear to be so much smaller than the mains. I understand why the mains are so big now that I have seen them packed (on video) but how can the reserve fit into such a small package? Are they just smaller?


  • When I ordered my rig there was some confusion about how to get a correct measurement from the instructions on the chart. By "confusion" I mean I interpreted the instructions incorrectly and told the person who measured me the wrong thing. The rig didn't fit. I sent it back so they could look at it to see what kind of remedy there was and they ended up building me a new harness. Through the process they were just plain cool. Each and every time I spoke with them they were professional, VERY knowledgable and easy to talk to. A lot of companies could take lessons from these guys.

    I have a feeling that there might be more to this story.





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    look im the roommate and i asked him to post cause i have never posted but yes everything he did say is completely true yes my questions were answered but with attitude and i did call my dzo who ordered for me with questions as well but im the one spending the money so i feel i should be able to call the ppl im spending thousands of dollars with. im not calling all the time. this is my first rig and im new to this whole process and i just want to be reassured that every thing is right and the way i want it. i dont feel like i deserve attitude when i call. if i had todo it all over i wouldnt have chosen Wings. Im just frustrated with the situation. i dont feel like im asking too much. and for him to just hang up on me in mid sentence when i was asking my question is completely unacceptable.