RayLosli

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Posts posted by RayLosli


  1. On 2/8/2024 at 8:34 AM, SewingGuy said:

    I was was also  thinking to upgrade my machine and found those guys selling a similar one for around $5K: https://www.jacksew.com/highlead-ga2688-1-single-needle-extra-heavy-duty-shuttle-hook-16-5-cylinder-arm-compound-walking-foot-sewing-machine/

    You say ..."Upgrading your machine ." .. what are you upgrading from ?

    The ' JACK' branded label name.  ( the way I interpret ) , is that their biggest customer base is Europe,and even Australia. not N. America market. The 'jack' link you give in your Post, gets redirected straight to Highlead branding label and their 441 clone/import.
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    OK . I read your Post, like you looking to purchase a 'new' decent Juki 441/import clone, 794/dyx3 Needle, 441shuttle/bobbin assembly system machine ? . These days there are several nice well made 441 imports being put-out in different brand name labels.

    In your user name info. Your location is Tahoe NV. .. ( my advice ) the 1st thing that hits me is.. You are 'really close' to the CA. San.Fran.bay area . Artisan Sew over in San Bruno, CA has a pretty good 16" 441 clone/Import they spec.out and brand their name to .

    Artisan sew has a ( Mdl 4000 ). They been around for longtime and does a decent job with machines and customer service. Their prices are pretty good also because they have their machine order shipments come-in directly into Port of Entry right there to help hold their prices down.

    Also, you not that far away, so the cost of shipping of a machine on a pallet from Artisan/bay area CA. to Tahoe NV. the cost won't be bad at all . If you ship straight into a trucking hub in Tahoe. Then just pick it up the pallet yourself from the Hub . Avoid doing that delivery bullshit to home/residence because that just doubles the cost .
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  2. On 2/8/2024 at 8:34 AM, SewingGuy said:

    Hello guys, I found this https://parts.jacksew.com/hanging-roller-strt-guide-generic-mah-15201-0a0/ just wondering if anyone knows if it would fit a Juki 441?

     

    I was was also  thinking to upgrade my machine and found those guys selling a similar one for around $5K: https://www.jacksew.com/highlead-ga2688-1-single-needle-extra-heavy-duty-shuttle-hook-16-5-cylinder-arm-compound-walking-foot-sewing-machine/

     

    Also did anyone have any experience ordering from Jacksew?

    ( will Not fit 441 ) . I have that same swing-drop-down edge guide on my  juki 1541 . That drop edge guild in your link is not going on the 441, it way to small/short, for the big head clearance of juki 441.
    The 'standard ' edge guide for the 441 is just a T-bar mounting bracket attached on the cylinder bed close in by needle plate.
    looks like this,  in pic.
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    1793750400_441guide.jpg.46485036b128eae6c06c1152616d9c27.jpg

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    The Only drop-Swing-down edge that I have even seen offered for fitting a 441 or 441 clone is offered by ( Toledo Industrial sew ) in Ohio, for their Mdl.4500 /441 clone .
    Drop down adjustable roller edge guide (Adler style)
    441/4500 drop-down edge

    https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html

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  3. On 5/2/2023 at 7:08 PM, craddock said:

    So I picked up an old singer 237.  Last of the real metal singers.  Read good reviews on it and looks new.  However it doesn’t grab the bobbin thread when trying to sew so it doesn’t sew.   Need to figure out how to adjust.   Have not had time to play with.   Still looking for a good deal on an old pfaff 130 or 230 and a husky Viking.   Thanks for all the help.  I think this 237 is going to do good bartack imitation though once running.  

    Was it sewing before, you put your hands on it, and set it up at your place ?

    Have  you checked the basics ?
    like ... 
    Did you properly route Top Thread ?
    Are you using correct needle size .
    Needles scarf and thread channel are pointed correct direction to Hook .
    to much Distance away from the scarf, when hook passes by it . Hook will not pickup and also skip stitches .
    also look at the Needle scarfs timing, ( to high or Low ) when the Hook passes by .

    Also your machine is pretty small,  i assuming you using text70/#69 thread . Your Needle hole size 'preferably' should be #18, and #16 smallest.

    ' Take-up Lever ' Check thread routing . And This--> Look to see that 'on the needle plunge' and bottoms-out as Hook passes by . there is a creation of a small Loop with the thread, so the Hook can pickup .
    The machines 'Take-up Lever' serves a purpose. it is timed to be down, on the needles plunge thew material leaving slack for the thread loops creation . So the hook passes into the Loop for pick-up. The Lever then goes on the upstroke to then resume the proper thread tension again.
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  4. 1 hour ago, craddock said:

    Thanks. I found a 230 on marketplace that looked mint with a box of accessories I probably wouldn’t need for $90.   Sadly it was pending pickup.    I would like to get. Sailrite but can’t justify.  I have been aware of them for their portable ability to to some canvas and vinyl work.  I will keep my eyes open.  I have used a 20u before if that’s the blue singer.   I was just doing straight stitch on it and don’t remember much about it.  

      Ya, I think you going to be getting into at least 1-k-$ new for those Sailrite portables now . It's the option of self contained/portability you paying for, personally I don't see the attraction, unless you actually live on a sailboat, or on the move, or just lack the space for a industrial table . For same or a couple hundred more you could get yourself into a nice clean used, heavier, more powerful industrial unison-feed model machine like consew or juki.
      I actually have a Sailrite sitting here in the sew room right now, owner dropped it off for a few months because he off traveling doing tandems . I checked it out a couple times out of curiosity . it is the Sailrite straight/zigzag stitch with the large oversized hand-wheel for more punch-torque . It has it's oddities with it's design, but overall Sailrite portable seems to be a pretty solid machine for it's size, and lays down a nice stitch.

      The old Singer blue 20U are a straight-stitch/Zigzag . lots of them were produced and all over the place. Other model also ( 20U33 ) straight/zigzag stitch, that also was mass produced . Both are just a bottom-feeds, and light industrial that you should be able to get into cheep . I not sure about the exact difference between them as they both look pretty similar to each other.
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    • Like 1

  5. The Sailrite is a cool design, it looks like a Consew 146RB1a  and a Bernina 217 had a Baby ...LOL .

    If it just has to be a Portable, for a ZigZag option ? , Then get a Sailrite like Riggerrob suggested . It a little smaller, with 7"on the work area than the standard 10" industrial, but totally makes up for it on their whole self-contained portable package design.
    It's a combo straight-stitch/zigzag . It's feed is walk foot, strong puncher for it's size, and probably the portable sew with most needle punch power sold .
    The old pfaff 230's are around for a lot less-$ than Sailrite, and good for a lightweight fabric stitcher .

    If not need portable package, maybe look for a old Singer 20U zigzag, singer made a million of them, I see them around for sale on the Craigslist here once in while, and always pretty cheep-$ .
    Also look for the old Singer 143w strait-stitch/zigzag. I used to have one of those and they are old but 'strong' built model.
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    • Like 1

  6. On 6/1/2004 at 2:43 PM, gulaz said:

    Wow, its that popular...

    Im having fun finding the manual :-p

    Go to this Link for downloadable manuals .This link goes to a DB-170 , but if you go on Left-side of the page, it list all the different DB Mitsu. models .

    ( I might be wrong ? ) I don't think it an old juki/mitsu. head. .The DB170 looks pretty close to the pic's above, but like I said, they made a lot of different bottom feed single-needles in that older casting head style . So if you search the models listed you might see Manual you looking for .

    https://manualmachine.com/mitsubishi/db170/8322687-manual/

    .


  7. On 6/1/2004 at 2:43 PM, gulaz said:

    Wow, its that popular...

    Im having fun finding the manual :-p

     

    I think, it pretty common found machine found.everywhere.

    ( Just guessing for a Mitsu. model # ) , as pic's above are not detail/great for ID .

      the 'Omega Emblem' .. is just that particular dealers 'brand label' , put to what looks like a older Mitsubishi DB#  model . There is a ShitLoad of different DB model #'s produced over many years . with  'bottom feed' , with common high-shank presser foot, and all the DB models were made in HUGE industrial volume, pretty common easy found, economical parts, big selection, with the presser feet, needle plates, feed dogs ..etc. . 
      That is a real common cast body, and I would also guess that if you tilt machine back and look at underside there in front. you would find the Mitsubishi factory Emblem ( 3 diamond ) stamped in the cast.

      Good sewing machines, that you can easy setup to do a lot of different jobs. I still keep an older DB-170 in my stable, and use it all the time . common found parts 'easy' setup for real lightweight, or setup for doing heavier weight fabric materials also.
    .


  8. On 12/28/2022 at 11:19 AM, Bluhdow said:

    That's one very expensive marketing stunt/ego stroke. 

    They could have gotten Brad Slums to do it for a sliver of the time and money, I suspect.

     

      Of course it would have been more economical and faster just to subcontract a stunt crew to do the jump. but I give Hats Off to Cruise for taking the time and expense to do his own jump. It really shows he has pride in his work and believes in what he is doing. It's smart business, 100% adds quality to the product he is selling, and doing it himself, he gets the Ego stroke for a job well done .
      He demands quality for his Fan base with profit return. It really showed bigtime few years back when Cruise took all the time and money also in doing 'top gun Maverick' with all the elaborate cockpit Imax camera setup for flight effect and flight time for Imax theater release, instead of going CGI .

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    • Like 1

  9. On 7/28/2022 at 5:15 PM, coviti said:

    I'm thinking of buying a new sewing machine soon and it is so overwhelming. I'm leaning toward Singer or Janome but really don't want to spend more than $400. I'll be using it mostly for fleece stuff. I'm fairly new to sewing and have just been borrowing a friend's super old machine that skips stitches a lot. Pretty sure I want an automatic threading/bobbin set up and a walking foot (I read that makes sewing fleece easier??) What does everyone out there use? Do you like it or is there something you hate? Thanks for any help!

    your 1st post, and a 2016 resurrection .
    Craigslist is good for used machine deals, and if you browse regular you will eventually find something used or new .
    in your Area . I don't know how many hits you get in 'craiglist France' ? when you type-in search ( Sew Machine ) , but right at this moment in my Area, If I type 'sew machine' in Craigslist I get 326 listings .

    Most people posting here in the Gear and Rigging are searching machine info for medium and heavy industrial machines, for heavy nylons, cordura, webbing, binding.. etc.

    You say you mostly sewing fleece . You probably not asking about machine for sewing natural lamb/sheep fleece leather hide ? . If you are sewing lightweight garment Poly fleece , as you don't need a lot of thread tension, presser foot tension, and heavy needle/thread weight for fleece. You can buy a lightweight garment single-needle lock-stitch machine and chain-stitch Serger , if your seams are all inside a garment .
    .


  10. I was out to Ralph's DZ about 3 months back to bullshit and have cup coffee . He still there, I talked to him couple times this morning on the phone to .

    He still putting some fun jump loads in the air, and doing a few tandems, and selling/buying gear. He been at it to long, Ralph will never quit till he's dead.

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  11. On 3/7/2022 at 12:18 PM, RiggerLee said:

    I built my container for my first base jump. Did not build the canopy. You've got me beat.

    Lee

     

    That cool . 1st BASE jump -1st BASE container build, same time . My 1st two container looked No where near refined finish as the containers ' Quagmirian ' built for his 1st jump.

    I built 2 containers at same time, but I had a years worth of jumps down before I did it . But I still remember, was pretty nervous on the exits ...LOL .  took one container FF jump off a bridge, and then same day did PC assist exit with the other container off 150' 4-guywire antenna . After that, I jumped my own home built gear, Containers , supporting gear PC's and Risers-toggles, for years after that .

    .

     


  12. What RiggerLee say's ...  it what ? .. at minimum an old 40+ year old Consew , with an old timing belt, Old hook/bobbin assembly , old clutch drive , small bobbin , No reverse .
    if it was 'real' clean and clean table, Running smooth and lays down a nice stitch . ..  in the year 2022 .. 'Maybe' 500-$ would be the top price .
    .


  13. Man those are looking Good . They look real solid just looking at the Pic's. Nice stitching and finish work to, container and tray just open nice and clean for a good extraction . 
    It's a nice feeling to pattern/cut/sew-up your 1st Rig, then pack it up, take it out and put a jump on it . You will always remember that.
    .


  14. On 12/21/2021 at 11:49 AM, Quagmirian said:

    The way I'm stacking the layers is leg strap on the bottom, followed by a MLW layer, then the other legstrap layer, then finally the second MLW layer on the top. That's the way it is on the one I'm copying.

    I do read everything that's written here but I often just go away and think about for a while rather than reply immediately. One of the reasons why I put this on a public forum is that when I was starting out, there was precious little in the way of reference material, and this way it's all available for others who want to read about these things.

    That pic. of 8-point stitch on that Lateral to Main Lift junction you using for an example, is not going to break on any deep No slider deployments, it stronger than the forces your body can ever take .

    No matter what way you do it . Your Lateral webbing coming out to connect to Main Lift to leg-strap area . If doing a BASE container just try to keep that open bottom area of Tray and the Lateral webbing coming out to minimum .
    That inside corner area that I pointing to . Is covered by a Lateral Cover, Also the 'splayed' Lat. webbing in the one Pic. in previous Post , It also helps get rid of the Potential Bridal Snag of open area . The Lat. cover that is in PIc. is really simple, and just cut the bottom angle of it, to meet down there to the Container Tray corner area .


    Lat.cover.jpg.8c2efc31bf21b3a20d2c73584a3753f4.jpg
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    • Like 2

  15. Don't know if he looking for extra drug-$$ .  But Agree, 'Really' does throw-up red-flag when it's a , 1st Post, Overpriced, shittyShape, abused looking machine Head all by itself, set in a bad blurry Pic. ...LOL
    . But OP was brutally honest is stating .." does Not know Much about sew machines "
    ---
    Is definitely one machine that will always be keeping around . I will browse craigslist here in my AO couple times a week for catching a good deal on different used/new machines, and I have actually scored a couple over last few years . The clean running old Swiss Bernina/217's on a clean motor table, still gets around the 1-k price range.
    The old Swiss Bernina 217's were a real well made, balanced smooth running and a great Light/medium straight-zigzag-stitch, and accepting Cam readers also . (imho) ,One of the best sewing Bottom-Feeds made . It was such a well made, that was put under the brand label Chandler, Durkopp, and newer clone variants by Global Industrial . I even seen a nice clean 36" longarm  global/217 model  in the craiglist for sale last year .
    .


  16. This is not the For Sale Forum ... but I will give you a solid polite opinion on your 217 machine Head you are selling .

    ( looking at your Pic. )  and having owned 2, 217's and still have one set-up in shop and use regular . No Way you will get 500-$ for that old Head even if was set-up on a complete table

    Quick observation from your blurry photo. At Best, in the bad shape it's in, the buyer is receiving a machine ( for parts only ) sale . It does Not run/sew even if set-up on a table w/motor, is Rusty, Missing parts, and broken reverse lever .

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    • Like 2

  17. Nice .. good solid machine to say the least,  a good find on the old Jap Consew RB, and that (3-A ) designation , is a model I never seen/used . . Seiko was producing the old line Consew's way back then .

    The same body style RB as yours . I still have one of the last built Japan/'Seiko' ( 146 RB-1A ) That I bought (new old stock)  way over 20 years back . my RB-1A is straight stitch , zigzag , walk foot, and it is a solid workhorse that I still get behind everyday .
    Me... Living the dream would be getting a old Seiko/Consew RB-1A  'Long-Arm' .....LOL

    ( I kind of half/ass guessing here ? ) . . So your model designation ( RB 3A ) ??? , So is that is a 'bottom feed' drop feed . and it is built factory Cam-disked in a 3-Step ZigZag ???
    Your top choice of modification to add . probably good to search-out getting a ( Puller System ) if it a bottom-feed and you doing some long runs for seam work, for canvas, sail work ..etc.  A puller will get you feeding better with way less presser foot pressure, less fiction/distortion and laying down Nice stitches, and also letting your machine moving at top speed on the longs runs .

    Also..  your Consew Zig-Zag . probable will span at least 10mm . or bigger .
    and .. So your Needle Bar length is set for using 135x17  needle length ?

    so THIS  -->  on my RB-1A and when used to tune-up for stitching proper on it's 'widest' zigzag . I never could get it perfect factory spec. and the Hook would always be tapping both ends of the Scarf, and Short of it's factory Max zigzag adjustment .
    I finally figured out that the length of Scarf's on all needles are not the same. even though they are listed and sold being same size .
    For the most part I really like buying the Groz-Beckert needles for all the machines and they top quality . but years back on a whim I bought a box of the Organ Brand , and then I quickly seen there factory Organ Scarf was cut much longer and I tore into it and re-tuned.. instantly the machine fell into Max width/span zigzag.

    Here old Pic. I took, you can see the Scarf difference, and Groz-bec. on top, and Organ on the bottom . both needles are 135x17 ( 21 )  .. (imho)  Groz-beckert better quality, but your Consew needs a Long cut Scarf on the zigzag .
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    scarf.jpg.a268c44984146c26c19b597d460e1c70.jpg
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  18. On 3/8/2019 at 11:07 AM, JerryBaumchen said:

    Hi tribe,

    Yes, last year PARACHUTIST ran a small notice that Shoobie had bought the business back.

    I have not heard anything since; well, other than some unfounded rumors.

    Jerry Baumchen

    Hey Jerry .. saw your Post with words -Shoobie and Parachutist Magazine in it, and could not resist...

    Here a blast from the past . Parachutist, November 1982 Pg #42

    Shoobie and Bird Suit Add .

    .

    Shoobie .. Bird Suit.jpg

    • Like 1

  19. I always out taking look at machines . You not giving much info on the machine for judging a fair asking price . Are you original owner or buy it used . How old is the model ? How many years you own it ?  what shape it in and what the setup actually looks like ? ...etc
    Also pictures are sometimes even hard to judge the true shape a machine is really in, as opposed to actually seeing and sitting behind and laying down some stitches with it .

    Pretty sure It is a import copy of a Singer zigzag model as the parent machine . So No Problems getting parts on that machine, so that a plus .
     'nothing wrong' with imports and all machines are  copy of one thing or another . BUT 'sometimes' there is different quality on some of the parts used by whoever is ordering that run from the manufacture . SO age of the model and what generation/revision of the model is good to know .

    So Probably  ' off top of my head',  I would say 50% of purchase price is good place to start . but that a educated guess . also consider in selling a machine Is there is an over abundance of import's out there and buying new Heads or complete table setup's these days is pretty economic .
    .
     


  20. Nice.. That is pretty sweet on that lightweight pulley wheel you 3-D printed .

    I do have a gear reduction pulley set-up on my heavier cylinder bed '214x needle' sewing cord-tread . It runs great and it just chugs along and the torque is pretty big .
    Thanks for posting that gear Pic. I never though of the inertia of the heavy steel pulley weight causing problems on Servo conversion with brake & needle position sensor .
    .

  21. Got it found . and this is the one I am trying for little more power on the 135x17 needle walker . It is a CSM on the Consew model # .
    The Consew largest for '110 volt' is the , ( CSM-3000 ) 1 HP, 750 watt , and it drawing a solid 6-Amps. for pushing power . It not bad on the pricing either, it comes-in at just @ 200-$ shipped w/ needle position sensor, on the Ebay / Paypal .

    There 750 Watt 1-hp was the 'only one' I saw that was drawing 6 Amp. on the power . And 6amp is the same draw as the big electric clutch motor it is replacing . 'All' the 550 watt servo drives advertised only draw 4-Amp for power . Even that (reliable corp. model ) that advertised 12 magnetic pick-up's on there servo, only draws 4-Amp. for power .
    I like the smaller 550 watt consew servo drives . So there bigger 1-HP model servo ought to do it . And If it turn's out to SUCK, then I can always put back on the old but reliable clutch motor . And then put that 1-hp servo on another machine in the shop .

    I am not going to mess with mine . but looks like for any heavy duty machine your going to be punching thread-cord like #277 or #346 then it looks like your really forced to move into larger servo drive . like a 1000 Watt Servo, single-phase 220-Volt, 1-1/2 or 1-1/3 HP .
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  22. Add to last Post:

    The Consew csm550 model servo motor comes with ( 75mm ) drive pulley from the factory.
    but, found there is available ( 50mm ) belt pulley on sale ( 18-$ ebay ) for them .

    also .. reading the buyer reviews from all, say that it (50mm) does control the slower rpm speed settings even better, with also adding little more torque on the bottom end of the 550 servo . same as on your old brush motors when gearing down with small pulley .
    .

  23. Thanks for the reply's and links . I will research more watts in power .
    I know there is a difference in power/torque given off of servo motors . Even though they might be same watt output . the number of magnetic pickup's and the size of magnets used, changes things much .

    I found this servo today researching . .. it is a 550 watt but they design with 12 pickup's rather than 9 used on most 550 watt like on the Consew 550 servo . But it also cost more than the 550 watt consew servos I use now .. but 200-$ is not out of the question if it is in fact better quality power .

    https://reliablecorporation.com/products/sewquiet-6000sm-servomotor

    This machine runs great now and I also do have a very small pulley on it also . Maybe I should not dick around with it as it runs perfect for years, got the power and control never a problem .
    But the machine gets used daily and Just getting tired of the noise . The 'quietness' of using brushless servo really gets you spoiled and no vibration buzzing and smooth . No loud humming in my brain seems to give me less stress and more relaxing when sitting behind a machine for few hours at a time .
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  24. Anyone ( actually use or know ) model of servo motor that has little more power/torque that what I normally use now ?

    changing out motor on a heavier duty model walk-foot using ( 135 x 17 ) needle size that I use on heavier thicker nylon work .

    Right now I do use/have a couple digital servo motors ( consew 550 watt ) , and find them 'OK' for push behind the ( 135 x 5 Needle size ) . It just seems like that size 550 size servo, is NOT going to cut it moving up in machine size and punching thicker materials .
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