Chrisky

I'm wondering; Might there be the slightest whatever chance of the magnets interfering with the AADs circuity/chips? The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Didn't experience, didn't have my rigger notice but saw an ugly picture here and heard the ugly story along with it. But there's no option for that. Check out the pics. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Taking this to the german forum may have helped too. Check out the "Adressen" link on http://www.prueferverband.de/, either check the "Reservepacker - Fallschirmwarte" (Riggers) or the "Prüfer von Luftfahrtgerät - Fallschirmtechniker" (Master Riggers) lists. Warning - PDF lists! Or you might just call the DZ and ask them for available rigging services on location. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Freefly Pud on throw out BOC. Nothing ever moves, handle stays right where it belongs. Safest bet IMO. Custom newly bought rig (5 years ago that is). If I'd buy a used rig now, I'd have my rigger retrofit a hackey with a pud. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Just curious; A recently graduated student at my home DZ had a malfunction somewhat similar to that. I can't imagine how that could possibly happen to me given the packing method (Brians way on youtube linked) and using a pud. I'd suspect this to be a PC packing method issue, but given your jump numbers and experience this too seems contradictory. Here's the shot of the crap PC the guy cut away; [inline 11052008101rs.jpg] The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

I sure hope you had two directions to approach and one to land. If you're running low from a long spot, doing a righthand turn in an otherwise lefthand pattern is not a biggie. That is, as you get in so low that all you do is a straight in approach with a right turn STRAIGH TO FINAL. BUT if you have enough altitude left to actually fly a PATTERN with an Upwind/Base/Downwind leg, you better do it left hand as the others do. You dont have to do a 270° left turn to "do a lefthand approach" when you only have enough space for a flat 90° right turn before touchdown. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Thanks for the hints, I've been shooting SLRs for like 18 years now, so I consider myself to have a pretty thorough understanding of the camera workings (excluding image stabilization of course ); I'll still read through the Settingsquestions thread - there's always new info out there. Thanks again! The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Boohoooo. 27 USD? Hahaha! Dude... How's it for 28 EUR as we pay over here? That's like 42 USD... I just wish we had your prices. Kerosene is 1.98 EUR per litre over here - Diesel is at around 1.52 EUR/lit. Damn China. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Cool. So I guess I'll go for the 450D with the kit lens. Thanks for the info! I'll try not to forget to report back on how things worked out. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

In reviews the kit lens didnt actually do so bad, picture-quality wise. Plus as the build quality is maybe not premium, it should suffice (fixed installation on the mount) and be a bit more lightweight. I dont necessarily want to shell out loads of money for the lens, as I do have a solid 11-18mm 2.8 lens already for my general wa. photography. So the way I see it, if I start out with a rather cheap wideangle-lens, i could just as well go with the kit lens if the IS is no issue. I can always upgrade the lens if the results suck, but at 70 EUR (in kit), it's a good lens. The other lenses start at roughly 200 EUR, with good lenses above 450 EUR as usual. They also tend to be a wee bit more heavy, and for starters at least, I'd like to keep the weight down. I'm aware of the picture differences/drawbacks, but as long as I wont charge people for the pix, which will be a while until I get the hang of things, I'm not going to put premium stuff on there for that last extra shine. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

That is why it is always a good idea to have a landing direction indicator, preferrably one that is set by a ground crew member and not being changed after canopies are open. The instance of the windsock turning 180° is very very rare on days where you have a significant wind speed. Windsocks turning are usually low-wind days where it's more important for everyone to land in the SAME direction rather than against a 1-2 kts wind. A canopy collision in 5-30m altitude is much more dangerous than a controlled downwind/crosswind flare can ever be. Stay calm and hit the ground running. My 2 ¢. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Yup that's just what I'm curious about. I wasn't aware IS could be switched off on a lens. The question put clearly is: Is image stabilization in a Canon kit lens going to cause trouble if it can't be disabled? Will it adversely affect image quality? Would it be preferable to jump a non-IS lens? Can it be switched off permanently and effectively? The question is not being asked out of interest to make use of IS, but simply because the kit lens of the kit I'm looking at is an IS lens. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

I'm looking at a Canon EOS 450D for topmounting. The kit with the EF-S 18-55 IS sounds tempting, as the lens supposingly is not too bad and really cheap. However, it's an IS lens, and I was wondering if that is an issue for skydiving? As I understood the IS in SLR lenses is achieved by a gyroscopic lens element? Anyone can elaborate? The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

I know coming from AFF and renting gear seems terribly expensive and you wanna have your own gear like everyone else. But is it really a good idea to shell out quite a bit of money for new gear that you will likely only be jumping for a year or two/100-200 jumps? Try and get a good used rig for that time, then, when you have more experience with gear, you can decide what to get more educated and that will last you longer in your skydiving life. I also asked my DZ back in the day to cut me a deal on rental gear and they did, as it took a long time for me to find a good deal on a used beginners rig. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

My unit has a Ublox/Antaris4 chip, the device is a WSG-1000 and i did some jumps over the past weekend. I was sitting on a Skyvan, and on the last 2 (out of 5) jumps I kept close to the window prior to exit and got a lock. I did some logs (first three jumps logging with 2Hz, then did the last 2 jumps with 1Hz. The 2 Hz tracks are quite jittery. also my bicycle ride the day before logging at 4 Hz was very jittery, it seemed the unit was not writing the log entries in proper sequence. Spumoni - in u-center under the RATE settings there are three options, 0-UTC time, 1 - GPS time and 2 - local time. Could these maybe be used to get the log points in proper sequence @ 4 Hz? Camera guys usually jump canopies that open a bit softer and are proficient enough at landing to not "impact", so the only thing to fear is the opening, which depends largely on the canopy. I just got a new canopy reknown for its soft openings, because my old one used to give me an occasional opening shock and I want to start shooting stills in the air, which adds about 1 kg of gear to my head. Funny side result showed that the Skyvan pilot sucked at GPS approaches for jumprun - he unloaded us right over the landing area without considering drift. result was us hanging under canopy 1500m downwind of the landing area... Visual approaches were spot-on... Edited to add my jump #807, logging @ 1Hz, losing Fix upon boarding and reaquiring it on jumprun. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Just stumbled on this thread. Very cool stuff! What GPS chip is in there? I have a Logger arriving today using an Antaris 4 chipset which is an Amtel/ublox cooperation iirc. Cant wait to check it out on the weekend. > From reading some of the posts, is it common to have the risers get tangled onto the helmet mounted cameras? Risers getting tangled is not common, but if it happens it's a very dangerous situation. Most of the times a situation of that sort arises, lines get caught under parts of the camera equipment, ripping them off (like lenses including their mounts). Riser strike is much more common and refers to the risers hitting the helmet setup quite fiercely upon canopy deployment, which is why many people prefer putting their cameras in extra boxes. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Sub- standard-def resolution (640x480). Why would you want to use that for skydiving? Image quality is mediocre, but low res and you probably can't fit a wide angle of any kind. Killer; no Image stabilization: check out the website video 0:13-0:20 someone rushing down a water slide - camshake galore! Dont think it's worth trying out. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Well, doesn't have to be CCD quote>(or equal pic quality/CMOS) I haven't been shopping around for Camcorders until late last year, I'm not up to speed on what technology is really hip these days (other than Flash). Good to know LanC is a tape-based protokoll - is there any wired remote control available for Flash based camcorders? Vertical form factor because I'll need the top for the still cam. A narrow cylindrical cam may also apply for side mounting. So with LanC and CCD out of the race, the question remains: What cams are there which (in order of importance) - have good image quality (eventually HD capability)? (My reference is the PC-1000, best image quality in I've seen so far) - record to flash (no drive=less weigth), (minimum fullres SD). - preferably vertical form factor (can be cylindrical if it's not too wide) - have a wired remote (optional) Or to put it straight; if you had to get a comcorder now that you'd want to put on next to a still cam and that should be lightweigth with excellent picture, which would you go for? TIA, this really saves hours and hours of homework! The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Although my old Sony PC-5 is still hanging in there quite ok, I plan to start jumping a still cam along and think about a new camcordedr with better image quality. Now - Is there a Cam that records to Flash (SDHC/MemStick), has 3CCD (or equal pic quality/CMOS), Full HD option and LanC capability in a preferrably vertical form factor? Asking to much, i guess - I'm just a niche consumer, huh? The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

I digress. I own a Wings w/ Cordura BOC and Pud handle (so I'm biased) and as long as you pay attention to the rubber band closing the BOC, IMO it is the superior option. Cordura is a very lasting material and I've seen lots of Spandex BOCs that gave me the creeps as they were kind of yelling "I can't hold it any longer!" Seriously - I'd go for a cordura BOC w/ the pud handle anytime again. Zero bridle exposure plus the handle covers the whole mouth of the BOC, nothing moving. With a hackey bouncing around a Spandex - well, in my book you're more likely in for another go-around than with the cordura pouch. Check out Brian Germains Famous Pilot Chute Packing Method on how to pack a PC (a) right (way). And pay close attention to the Spandex wear. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

My choice would be the one top center. Looks very nice overall. Maybe that dude who said that just said it because he's a D*ckhead? Dont worry man... The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

I was looking at the new Garmin Forerunner series, esp. the Forerunner 305. I want to use it for rockclimbing, running and skydiving. Any opinions? The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Shoot them a message here on DZ.com; Manufacturer Contacts on Dropzone.com It's not like the only options are calls and email... The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...

Check my profile picture for my canopy coloring. I chose a mix of darks and brights (and neon yellow is VERY visible in most all conditions). I designed my canopy for a DZ sitting in a forest and having overcast skies a lot of the time, not for beauty, after all it's only out for few minutes and serves two purposes: Lift me and make itself seen (for me in case of cutaway and to other jumpers when I'm under it). Generally I'd say desert, overcast sky and blue sky recommend the use of a dark tone for contrast and green backdrop a light color. A combination is the only real way in my book. Contrast is what makes you visible. I just checked a video of another guy who was jumping way ahead of me in sequence and could instantly tell my canopy apart from others and background from a large distance.

Sorry to say, but someone was seriously hurt. He will fully recover, but nevertheless it was a shattered vertebrae. To me that is a serious injury. Either way, good that an ambulance was standing by and thanks to the LOs in place who handled the situation professionally, well having made the difference between full recovery and paralyzation. The mind is like a parachute - it only works once it's open. From the edge you just see more. ... Not every Swooper hooks & not every Hooker swoops ...