Kenzdik96

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Everything posted by Kenzdik96

  1. There is an app called spot assist that is advertised (among other things) to help find cutaway canopies and freebags.
  2. Over here, they are somewhat popular, maybe a third of the jumpers use them. Openings are rather good, as they help reduce the linetwists, as the bag is.more stable when leaving the rig. Improvement in speed of deployment is marginal, and so is the improvement in speed of packing. My primary reason for using them is less line twists, and fewer rubber bands to change out.
  3. Yeah, if you decide on modifying the rig yourself I would recommend talking to a professional about it (if you are not one yourself), or if you are inclined to perform some DIY rigging, at least doing way more research than the person who did the modification in the picture above. I would for start look into military tandem systems, NAA makes some that are (probably) legal to jump in the USA, but I don't know if they will sell them to civilians. If that fails (or if legal to jump in the USA is not a requirement for you), you can find expired Strong tandems relatively cheap and use those, or alternatively, there are some non TSOd manufacturers in Russia / Eastern Europe who will happily sell you a military (or regular) tandem for not that much money (although some are of dubious quality), and equally happily sew you any kind of "passenger" harness you ask for.
  4. I stand corrected, I haven't seen any Icarus or Parachute Systems reserves, I have checked the Icarus (NZ) reserve manual and the Icarus (World) manuals, they both have the checkboxes, couldn't find a manual for the decelerator. People around here mostly jump Smart, Techno, and PD stuff, so I didn't really have that much contact with Icarus reserves. You learn something every day :)
  5. Only on PD reserves, AFAIK other manufacturers don't require any markings on the reserve.
  6. That looked like something a 20 jump student would do unintentionally, low toggle turn followed by trying to flare it out in the bank instead of trying to arrest the turn.
  7. Yes, you are right that optimizing a canopy for openings alone will lead to F111 as a choice of material. However, there is more to a main (and even a wingsuit main) than openings alone. For start, an average wingsuit canopy will have more jumps in one month than a reserve will in its lifetime. While your openings need to be without linetwists, they don't have to be as short as those of a reserve, as comfort is one of the considerations as well. And finally, as it is your main, it needs to get you back from that long spot you will inevitably find yourself landing at if you are doing wingsuit. With todays cfd technology, it is possible to design a zp wingsuit main that will have all the performance you need (opening and flight) without having to resort to f111 unless pack volume is the major consideration.
  8. I did say "with a Vector, you can't really do much with a bottom mounted closing loop" I've known about that series, they did change it back to bottom flap rather soon though. Good info for the ones who didn't know about that series (without highjacking the topic and going into the pros and cons of both systems).
  9. I believe he said that his wannabe wingsuit rig is a Vector with an OP 193, and he is jumping a 120 in his primary rig (which he didn't specify the make, size, or reserve). So with a Vector, you can't really do much with a bottom mounted closing loop in terms of over-shortening it (you will just wind up touching the grommets together), but you can have a go with a larger main Dbag, or having your reserve packed to be bottom stiff and push the AAD out. Alternatively, you can get a regular pack volume ZP wingsuit main like the WinX or Pilot7. ZP will give you better flight characteristics, and since you already have a rig that holds a 150 standard, and you want to put a 150 in it, you will really experience no benefits from going for an ultra low pack volume option.
  10. Exactly which problem are you attempting to solve? Is your main too loose in your container, and not putting enough pressure on the closing loop, keeping the pin unsecure? On some rigs where the closing loop is located at the top (Javelin), you can shorten it to "compress" the main dbag and help keep a smaller than spec main secure. Putting in an oversized main dbag can also help, as it will allow the canopy to keep some air in it and fill more space in the container. Putting a maximum possible size of reserve in the rig can also help with keeping an undersized main in check. Having your rigger pack your reserve with more material at the bottom can help keep the dividing wall rigid, and even push the AAD into the space normally reserved for your main, again helping to keep an undersized main in check (do not do this on Javelin/Wings/any other pop top - on rigs with enclosed reserve pilot cutes this will only make the rig less comfortable, on pop tops it is a safety concern as it creates a gap between the top of the reserve pilot chute and your container). As Binary said, logos and Dacron lines help push the pack volume up, but if you are willing to make that level of investment (relines (most canopies don't come with Dacron default), and especially custom canopies with logos are expensive), you are better off finding a used rig in the size that you need for your intended canopy to be a proper fit and selling your current one. If the smallest size your rig can hold is a 150 ZP, it can hold a 170 and probably a 190, which makes it a popular size for first rig, which makes selling it easier. I would advise against adding any sort of padding to your container/dbag to help with the pack volume. Doing the padding properly is not easy, and your rigger will probably charge you a lot for it, doing it the quick and dirty way might interfere with your openings, and both will significantly lower the resale value of your rig. I know that your question was largely hypothetical, but my $0.02 is that some additional information can't hurt.
  11. I am talking about getting from a student canopy to a properly loaded sport canopy to learn some slightly more advanced aspects of canopy control. There are basic things you can and should learn on your Navigator 240 (like making a proper landing pattern, making a flat turn, accurately landing in a designated place, avoiding traffic, and timing your flare), but once you are at 50ish jumps, a good number of people who were interested enough to learn those things will have learned them. Those that are not interested to learn them will not learn them in 300+ jumps. But things like front and rear riser flight, as well as harness input are almost impossible to learn on such canopies at such wingloadings as the forces required to use the risers are insanely high, and harness response is non-existent. Please note that I am not talking about high performance landings here, just knowing how to pilot your canopy the way you want it to go.. And the idea that would totally eliminate the danger is to ban skydiving all together, as no one can get hurt landing a parachute if no one is jumping out of airplanes, but eliminating the danger is not the point of this sport. What I am proposing is to help those who are interested in and capable of learning to learn as quickly as possible, and as in any sport, there are certain risks if you want to progress faster, which some people are willing to accept.
  12. And we agree here, as I would not encourage anyone to do downplanes or make stacks with anything but a dedicated CReW canopy. (which doesn't have to be a 7 cell, nor does it have to be lightly loaded, have you seen the PD Tango?) But downplanes and canopy docks are exercises which are applicable only to people doing CReW, and I don't want to force anyone to get into full contact canopy relative any more than you want to force people to go into swooping. Contactless canopy proximity flying on the other hand is an exercise that makes you a much better canopy pilot, regardless of the discipline you choose to pursue afterwards. When you have another canopy in the air next to you, you can see exactly what happens when you initiate any sort of toggle, riser, or harness input, because you will have a frame of reference (which you normally only have during landing, when the ground is getting closer), and you will learn how to control your canopy horizontal and vertical speed, as you will need to match them to another person (and this can't be done properly on very lightly loaded wings, as both the front and the rear risers are way to heavy to be useful, and harness is almost unresponsive). Glide ratio is a constructive characteristic of the airfoil, and is independent of wing loading. A 9 cell will typically have a better glide ratio than a 7 cell, purely because the aspect ratio of the wing is greater, and aspect ratio positively affects wing efficiency (that is why gliders have very big wing spans in relation to their chord, and consequently very high aspect ratios). When we say glide ratio, we are referring solely on airspeed. When it comes to penetrating wind, it is not only the glide ratio you need, but horizontal speed, as ground speed (difference between you airspeed and the speed of the wind) is what you need to get over that powerline/highway/barn. When wind gets sufficiently strong, you will be standing still with anything loaded at 1.0, but something at 1.4 might get you moving forward. And before someone responds with "you shouldn't be jumping if winds are too strong", wind can change during jump, and people are eager to jump so in the real world wind limits will routinely be pushed.
  13. It is neither necessary, nor inevitable, but it will statistically happen to a vast number of people. I have read your post in the Perris fatality thread about pilot progression and encouraging learning other (than high performance landings) aspects of canopy flight (like canopy formations, practical accuracy, and similar), and while I agree with you that those are valuable skills, it is not really necessary to teach those at 7 cells loaded below 1.0. Slightly higher wing loadings give you increased ability to penetrate wind and higher stability in turbulence, while 9 cells give you a better glide and better flare over 7 cells. A Safire, Sabre, Volt, Pilot, or a similar semi elliptical canopy loaded at 1.4-ish gives you ample opportunity to learn majority of aspects of canopy flight, will tolerate all but the stupidest of mistakes, and still enable you to get back from that bad downwind spot. Adding on, a 170ish canopy with vectran lines has a sufficiently small pack volume for you to have a normal sized rig that will not kill your back while you are waiting to board the plane, and will help prevent snagging your pins on objects in the airplane (which also requires training and attention on the side of the skydiver, but is also much easier to do with something holding a Safire 169 than a Navigator 240). I have not seen people being forced to downsize everywhere, and while I have seen some instructors push people to downsize more and more, those were rather rare instances. The reality is that a lot of (especially younger) people perceive high performance landings as fun. While those carry certain risk, a lot of people are willing to accept them as after all, if our primary concern was safety over fun, we would be playing chess every weekend instead of jumping out of somewhat serviceable airplanes.
  14. Without knowing the skill of the person in question, and altitude/climate of the local dropzone, it seems excessive, but I can see the circumstances under which those would be considered acceptable. A lot of people don't have the money to change gear very often, so the idea was probably to get the guy a container that will be useful for a couple of future downsizes, providing he doesn't get hurt for the first 20-30 jumps while he is getting used to the canopy. If the local dropzone has rather constant winds, low altitude, and a C182 which limits the number of simultaneous people in the air to 4, it might not be the smartest idea in the world, but it isn't a catastrophic one. I would also recommend a Safire over a Sabre as it has a shorter recovery arch. While in the ideal world of the average person advocating safety on this website (conservative people with infinite money, strong safety culture, and highly regulated skydiving) this situation would be frowned upon and this person would be prevented from jumping that gear, we are living in the real world, and things often need to be optimized using more than one parameter (the likelihood of the jumper getting hurt). I have seen it very often that the first canopy a person buys at under 100 jumps is a 170 by default, regardless of a wing loading (and sometimes even a 150 with a very light person).
  15. I didn't specifically see a 308 with a full fitting main and reserve at the same time, but I have seen a V309 and a V310 with full fitting things in top and bottom, and I have seen an ancient V34X (can't really remember exact number) which was overstuffed beyond factory full fit in both top and bottom, but somehow managed to handle it as it was old/stretched. Basically, all of those were safe, but the look of the container was not really good. I would still recommend that over getting a smaller reserve than you are comfortable having, especially because with your KA being a KA you might be needing that reserve a wee bit more than if you were flying say a Crossfire.
  16. AO(N2)s X2 also has Bluetooth connectivity, among other features similar to Dekunu. X2 – AO(N²) (aon2.co.uk) On the subject of life advice, while I agree that in the 21st century digital record keeping should be the norm, aviation in general (skydiving included) is not really quick to accept any change, and there are places that will not accept your digital logbook as proof of anything. I am not saying that they are correct in doing so, but as a private company, it is their right to provide or decline service to someone based on basically arbitrary requirements. You might make your life easier if you keep a paper logbook in addition to your digital one...
  17. Age of the rig can also play the part. A 15 year old rig that was routinely overstuffed with canopies will basically stretch and go up a size when it comes to canopies you can put in it.
  18. Loose fabric on the arms is generally a crutch people use while they are still learning freefall, and while I agree that a forearm mounted alti would negate some of the advantages of a loose jumpsuit, hand mount has a big disadvantage of someone being able to dock on you and grab you by the hand and in turn the altimeter (people tend to grab each other by the hands when doing their first FS jumps) which can obscure it, or even worse if it is an analogue unit, can actually turn the calibration ring rendering your altimeter useless. Even with a forearm mount, you will still have loose fabric above and below it, while keeping your altimeter much safer (albeit not 100% safe) from obstruction / interference. As for getting an audible for the decision altitude alarm only, statistically it can be a good idea. Taking into account the average frequency of people needing the decision altitude, you are more likely to learn altitude awareness before experiencing enough emergencies to train yourself to wait for the alarm like a robot.
  19. Forearm mount gives you much more flexibility when it comes to placing the altimeter, and adjusting the angle for ease of viewing. You can also adjust it during your jump when required (when flying a high performance canopy, you need your altimeter under canopy much more), as viewing angle for belly freefall and canopy piloting is not the same. Because of its greater accuracy (which is why they are used for swooping as Binary mentioned), I would always recommend a digital altimeter over an analogue one to a licensed jumper. However (and this might not be what you want to hear), I would recommend holding with your altimeter purchase for 30-40 more jumps, and only then getting a digital. When you are still learning, an analogue altimeter with a colored scale (the kind you can rent at your dropzone) is much easier to process in your head (ie you do not need to see the actual number to asses the situation, it is enough for you to process that the needle is entering yellow vs checking if it is actually pointing to 4000 feet). A digital one just gives you a number and it is up to you to interpret it. While you will eventually learn to process the numbers, imo it is better to have a color coded fail safe while you are learning. As far as an audible is concerned, they are great tools, but if you don't know how to properly fly without an audible before you get one, you will train yourself to become a robot who waits for an audible command to perform an action. One day that command will not come (your battery died, you forgot to turn it on, you lent it to a friend and forgot it isn't in your helmet), but the ground will keep coming closer, and you will find yourself with a problem. Only when you are proficient in breaking off, tracking, and pulling at proper altitude without an audible should you get an audible.
  20. Speaking of Airpods, you can actually buy proper earbuds/headphones from reputable companies like Bose or Sennheiser where you will get an order of magnitude better sound quality for equivalent or lower price.
  21. You would think so, but I have seen some rigs (15+ years old) where the hardware seemed almost destroyed, if I had to guess, I would say rings looked like they were exposed to salt water and corroded because of it. I have also seen 20+ year old rigs where hardware looked new. I don't know if some manufacturers use something other than stainless for the rings?
  22. I wouldn't call any form of training "best". They each have their time and place. For the first jump, static line or IAD work well, and I would lean towards static line as it removes instructor skill out of the equation (IAD does give you less line twists which is better for the student, but it can also attach a student to the horizontal stabilizer of the Cessna, which is less fun for all involved). You (as a student) will have a canopy safely above you without having to do anything, and it will help you grasp the feeling that you are alone in the air. I remember my first jump (static line), it was so intense I barely knew which way was down. I would not like to ever have that feeling in freefall. Once people have put a couple of jumps in, and have a basic understanding of flying their canopy, AFF will help them learn freefall stuff faster and in a more controlled environment (or tunnel plus AFF if they can afford it). While you can learn freefall using conventional methods, having a competent instructor holding on to you for the first couple of freefalls decreases the chances of a terminal reserve deployment followed by a cutter replacement.
  23. Coating is probably black oxide, which means it wont flake, but it can wear over time. It does not weaken the material in any way, but it also doesn't improve it in any way, so I would treat it as purely aesthetic. Do take into account that wear will not be uniform so after a couple of years, you might see some spottiness in the black hardware (which will probably impact your aesthetics negatively).
  24. Really depends on the place. I have had experience with really awful places, that would basically treat you like a second class person if you jumped at another local dropzone, to the point of being unofficially denied service (you were not asked to leave directly, but manifest made sure you had a bad experience, with the goal of you not returning again). Speaking of cliques, there are dropzones that will treat you poorly (again with the goal of you not returning) if you dare to disagree or question any of the local policies (ie why is the jump run in this direction, why are there more people on the plane than regulations and common sense allow, why am I on a load I didn't sign up for, why was the jump altitude less than agreed, etc). Basically, your mileage may wary wherever you go. I have met some of the best people in my life on a dropzone, I have also met some of the worst.