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Everything posted by betzilla

  1. Actually, that's incorrect. We carry class 1 exclusively. (In one case that I know of, we received webbing that was labeled as class 1 by our supplier, but was actually class 1A. The manufacturers are human, we are human, you are human. To err is, unfortunately, human.) ** I would also note that jumping Class 1 webbing with edge damage is just as bad a plan as jumping Class 1A with edge damage.
  2. I have amblyopia too (still have vision in both eyes, such as it is, but can only use them one at a time. It's like a superpower, haha). I'm not known for my graceful landings - I tend to slide in. But I have 1300 jumps, and work in the industry. If you want it, do it. This sport is for everyone!
  3. Hiya Jerry! 1. zero so far... 2. nope 3. Several times, I've recommended against buying squares if there's any chance a non-skydiver will be wearing the rig. I do have a handful of skydiving customers who are learning aerobatics, and have asked about buying rigs with squares. I'm happy to sell them in that case (though I usually have to explain why a PDR 126 might not be a great idea, haha), but none of those people have purchased PEPs just yet. There was one customer who was a very experienced skydiver who wanted an Aviator to wear in his new experimental plane. But the lead time wasn't short, and he didn't want to wait as long as it would take to get one. Interestingly, he opted for a round in his Softie, even when I told him he could get a PDR in it. Go figure.
  4. I found it in a packed rig once. Creepy. Also annoying that I had to spend all that extra time removing rubber bands from the diaper, and installing them in the container.
  5. It's on the right-hand side of the homepage. use "PARA5" for $5 off an order of $100 or more use "PARA10" for $10 off an order of $200 or more
  6. ^^^ . Thanks for the chuckle. But seriously... Paragear item D224 is a pair of velcro mini risers. *toggles not included -- you will need to purchase those separately (maybe the ones you have will fit). Item # is D226. Item m3345 is the hard riser housing pair. They're super easy to install -- in fact if you order all this stuff together from the Para Gear website, and ask nicely in the 'comments' box as you check out, I'll install the housings for you before we ship. And don't forget to use the coupon code to save a couple bucks...
  7. We probably have at least some info lying around here; maybe even the actual part. When the human encyclopedia (Jay) gets back tomorrow from his CSPA Symposium (good times, good beer, GREAT poutine and fabulous people! Thanks for having us, CSPA!), I'll see what he's got in the archives... If you don't hear back from me in a few days, give me a nudge...
  8. @OP: the smaller Sabres, from what I recall, don't open that hard. I put maybe 25 jumps on a Sabre 135 that opened fine (briskly, but not hard). I'd jump it before spending money on a tweaked slider, because I suspect you won't need one for the 120. For that matter, if you're worried a 120 will be too small, You should be able to put a Sabre 135 into your V308 with little problem (as long as you have microline, not dacron), especially since it won't be brand-new ZP... Just my 2 cents :)
  9. Out of curiosity (and sort of off-topic. sorry), does anybody know what the change was to the Ravens built after March 10th, 1988, that made the bikini slider unnecessary but apparently didn't change the line trim? Thanks @pchapman for posting all that info -- I knew the bikini slider thing existed, but had never seen anything in writing about it.
  10. UPT speculated on that for us, here: Seems like a long shot to me, but admittedly, they are smarter than I. I have, however, personally seen an inexperienced, poorly supervised packer shove the eye of the pin right through a closing loop before, so Occam's Razor makes me think that's what happened this time too (and probably other times which no one has owned up to or published on the intergoogles).
  11. I totally agree with this. I did my two night jumps fifteen years ago, loved them, landed on target, and will probably never do another, unless it's a ridiculously cool setup. These days, I'm just not that interested in the added risk.
  12. CSR Braids is the place! Here's a link:
  13. As nylon cordura ages, it starts to smell a little like puke (I think rigs that get a little damp are maybe more susceptible to the stink. Might be a fun experiment to try to figure out why some rigs reek and others don't). If that's what's going on with your rig, no number of washes will make that smell go away. I tend to agree with Terry that washing is best left to an experienced rigger, but if you decide to do it yourself, don't forget to pull your AAD and cover all the exposed hook velcro first .
  14. The link has been flipped through the line group between that one line and the other lines. That's why the other ones look twisted around each other.
  15. Looks like the right front link got flipped through its line group a time or two before being connected to the riser. Should take you about a minute to fix it (or an hour if you stink at puzzles).
  16. The V308 stowless bag is perfect for a CF2 129. Should fit your M1 okay too, I think.
  17. exhausting to turn those babies over, isn't it? That's why we nylon technicians get paid the big bucks.
  18. When you are dealing with a symmetrical piece of equipment (like a pair of risers, leg straps, steering lines, whatever), it's actually pretty easy to look at both sides of it and verify that they're the same. Then, if they aren't the same (maybe one side has a bunch of rows of stitching, but the other side doesn't), you can think about why they aren't (maybe one side has rsl stuff, and that's why there is more stitching), and decide whether it's a defect. I'm actually really surprised that whoever assembled the main didn't notice those stitches weren't there when he/she hand tacked the soft links. Your eyes are pointed right at the missing stitches at that point. Just goes to show how easy it is to not notice something is missing that isn't there to notice. I might have missed it too, but I sure hope not!
  19. EXACTLY. It's easy to inspect what is there. It's also relatively easy to miss what isn't there. This is a good lesson for all of us who inspect... ANYTHING. A couple years ago I inspected a reserve that was missing a bartack on one center A line. It had been inspected and packed that way by three other riggers before me. Thankfully there was a well-equipped loft and master rigger nearby who could make it right without the customer having to wait any extra length of time. Any of us are capable of a mistake at any moment. Let's just keep trying not to make them, and let's watch out for each other!
  20. ah. The links weren't working when I first clicked them. Now they are. back when I was a DZ rigger at a place with SG340's, were were having to replace sliders about every second reline too - the vectran was eventually dinging the grommets to the point where the stainless was actually torn (and then, in a vicious circle, the sharp edges would destroy the lines). I'd never seen anything like it before dealing with the 340s, but it was happening all across our fleet of 18 sigmas. Perhaps the Spectra will help with that problem too!
  21. anybody got a photo they can post? I almost never see sigmas in my current job, and would like to get a visual on how this is put together... Thanks!
  22. I replace the Cypres loop each time unless it's pristine (and they are almost never pristine, haha). I never charge extra for a standard Cypres loop - I just see it as part of the job to make a new one each time. I could definitely see charging a nominal fee to build and replace a racer loop, or maybe even for a Reflex, but for just a plain old regular loop, just wouldn't seem right to me personally.
  23. you should use a number 4 if you want the option to use a 'no hardware' bridle/PC like UPT's. The number 5 grommet will be just big enough that as the tape that the stopper is made of softens up, it may allow the bag to slip over it and slide down the bridle to the PC.