jmidgley

Does the D50 have a remote release socket? John

I'm sure there are no firmware hacks for post-300 models (Dig Rebel). If you read the entry that says "30D Firmware Hacked to Run on 20D!" you'll see it's a "wouldn't it be nice?" piece of speculation. There's nothing on the 350D. Regretfully John

My 350D came with Canon's version of Digital Photo Professional. A lot of people like Pixmantec's Rawshooter. There's a cut-down version (Essentials) available as a free download. In a nutshell, these programs replace the camera's own internal RAW-JPG converter. The difference is that the camera's converter is fairly simplistic and offers limited scope for configuration. Also once it's done, it's done - you can't go back and have another go at changing the exposure, or the white balance. With a PC based RAW-JPG conversion you get real time visual feedback on the changes you make, and you can correct the white balance, exposure, sharpening, contrast, etc in a lossless format. When you're done, you can apply these changes to a batch of photos and convert them to JPG. Downside - RAWs are bigger than JPGs, and the workflow is more complex. John

Shiny! Just to be clear - up through the check spring before it goes down to that finger-thing? Many thanks John

Hi I'm not convinced I'm threading my 20u correctly, and my machine doesn't match the only manual I've found to download. Can some kind soul either post a picture of a threaded 20u (just around the tension assembly) or describe it in words? My machine has a slanted strip with 3 holes that I guess guides the thread down to the tension disks - then there's a spring on the tension disks. The odd bit is another fixed strip of metal like an inverted finger to the left of the tension disks. When does the thread go round this bit? It kind of works the way I've done it, but I'd sooner it was right. Cheers John

Yeah, all you have to do is watch the video of FB over the Channel to be convinced... oh, hang on. Well, look at the GPS track/baro data... er, OK, an exit photo...... John

You mean... I didn't have to type all that?

Hi No, I don't think so. I got my info off Conceptus' website which states for both tongue and bite switches: 'Type - Single-pole, single-stage, normally open switch, sealed in flexible waterproof plastic' (here) Also: 'When used with Canon cameras in autofocus mode, the two standard plug types will yield different autofocus and metering characteristics. The mono plug will cause the camera to autofocus and meter constantly while the camera is on and the switch plugged in. This results in very rapid shutter reaction time at the expense of increased battery drain. This configuration works best when photographing freeflyers, freestylists, skysurfers, and other moving subjects. The stereo plug will cause the camera to autofocus and meter with each individual exposure. This increases battery life, but slows down the shutter reaction time. This configuration works best will large, relatively stationary formations.' (here) But re-reading this shows I have the mono and stereo characteristics the wrong way round. The *mono* plug shorts the autofocus permanently, causing the camera to continuously autofocus. while the switch is plugged in. John

Hi Just to be clear, you want to cut the Nikon-proprietary plug off a Nikon remote, and solder a 2.5mm socket onto the end? This would allow to have that as a standard connection for different kinds of releases, including, as a bonus, the Conceptus. First, the Conceptus releases seem to be designed with Canons in mind, specifically the ones that take the E3-type release. If you look at this website, you can see how they work on a Canon. A 'full function' remote trigger allows you to separate the autofocus (that you get from a half shutter-press) from the actual shutter release. The conceptus switches are obviously just a single pole normally-open switch, so they have a couple of different strategies for what to do about autofocus. The stereo version allows you to permanently short (switch) the autofocus. If the camera is in some sort of continuous autofocus mode, it will continuously autofocus while the remote release is plugged in and the camera switched on. This obviously takes a fair bit of power. The second strategy is to short the autofocus and shutter release wires together permanently. Conceptus do this by using a mono plug, but I'd rather it was done by using a stereo plug and soldering the correct wires (ie, the two that aren't 'ground') together. When these two are connected to ground (ie, you bite the switch), the camera will seek autofocus and only then take the shot. Less power used, potentially long (certainly arbitrary) delay. The solution, recommended by Conceptus, is to use manual focus. See the thread about hyperfocal distance! Back to your problem (and apologies for all the background, which you probably knew already). If you know you never want to be able to separate the autofocus from the shutter release, you can simplify the job. Always buy the *mono* Conceptus, and get a mono socket to plug it into. That part of the system is just operating as an ordinary switch. Cut the Nikon remote wire and use a multimeter to find which wire is ground, which is autofocus and which is shutter. Typically ground is carried as a sheath of bare copper wires. Solder the autofocus and shutter wires together on the 'tip' terminal of the socket. Solder the ground wire to the 'ring' terminal. If you want the option to keep autofocus and shutter separate, you'll have to use a stereo socket (and get stereo Conceptus switches). Find the ground, autofocus and shutter wires from the Nikon plug/release and solder to the socket terminals as shown on the website above. Of course I might have completely misunderstood the question... John

There's a great depth of field calculator at http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html. Feed in the camera, lens and settings and it will calculate the depth of field. Frinstance: Canon 350D, 12mm lens, f/8. Focus on a subject at 3.15' and everything from 1.57' to infinity will be within the range of acceptable sharpness. Exercise for the reader: pick f/5.6 and see what happens to the depth of field! Change the ISO, not the aperture, to get the shutter speed you need! John

Ah! Thanks. Armed with that info, I have found the right thing. I've found references to 135X9 as being suitable as well - any idea what the difference is (apart from 2)? John

Mike Will jont respect me in the morning, I wonder? I received two of these in the post today. I'll take a photo later and post more details, but just a quick update: You could either blow or suck as you see fit, by picking the right inlet/outlet. Of the two (physically identical) ones I was sent, one was very easy to trigger, the other required a slightly more robust suck. There's a little screw that adjusts the force required, but I haven't played with it yet. Connection is by two spade connectors - I just need to bodge a 2.5mm stereo jack onto it, and I can see how the camera likes it. They're about the size of an old-style 50p piece. It will fit neatly in the spare (internal) audible alti pocket in my helmet (2k composites) for a short vacuum tube to my mouth. John

Hi Can someone tell me what type of needle the Singer 20U takes? I presume they're not 130/705H (AKA 15x1). The manual helpfully says 'catalogue item 1910-05', but that doesn't seem to translate to anything I can buy... Cheers John

Jon I went and had a look at that switch after your reply the other day. Is it really 36mmx26mmx42mm? Browsing around (once you'd pointed me to the right section of the catalogue) I found 317948, which is only £5.63 and is 21.5mm diameter. As I understand it, there's a vacuum outlet and a pressure inlet - blow in the latter or suck the former. There's a screw to adjust the 'preload' on the spring that sets the trigger pressure. I have a couple of samples on the way, all being well, so (Mike) I'll let you know how it goes. Regards John

Hi Jon! You wouldn't have an RS stock number to hand for that item would you? Been searching, but I can't find it... Cheers John

Ah. That would be the clueless tandem paraglider passenger who ignores the brief to keep running until they're pulled off the ground, and then run some more for good luck but decides instead to JUMP into the harness, dragging the whole thing down to the ground. Richly deserved reward follows. You also see solo hang glider and paraglider pilots doing the same thing; 'right, thats enough running, ... oops.' John

Would I need to upgrade the dot on my goggles? John

Sorry, I knew what I meant when I typed that, but it's nonsense. I meant something like 'the lower shutter speeds allowed by IS won't stop action'. Regards John

Interested in responses to this Q too; I've been thinking about something in the 300mm range. I've sort of narrowed it down to: 70-200mm f4 L - universally well regarded, can take a 1.4TC for the loss of a stop, bit big and heavy and white. 70-300mm f4-f5.6 IS - optics seem to be well regarded, build quality less so, image stabilisation offers a 3 stop advantage when handheld (but lower shutter speeds won't stop action like they do camera shake!), inconspicuous. Slower autofocus than 70-200. 300mm f4 IS - prime, sharp as a tack, fast AF, image stabilisation, takes 1.4TC, twice the price of the two above and SCREAMS the fact at anyone who looks at it, hence poor spouse-acceptance rating... Any gear-heads got any of these? John

You reckon? Reading the incidents forum sometimes makes me wonder... John

Thanks for that; you can be sure that I've already googled it to death! When I say 'opinions are divided', I mean that among the reviews I've seen on t'Internet some are very favourable and some a bit huffy. Hence me turning to 'you lot' to see if anyone had any real-world experience. Regards John

While search is unavailable... Does anyone have any experience with this lens (on a Rebel XT/350D)? For size and weight (to say nothing of cost) it seems like a plausible competitor for the Canon 10-22mm, but opinions seem divided on optical quality. So, anyone got any 'field experience'? Cheers John

Hi You don't need the docking station for analogue video, or for charging. Sockets for both of those are on the camera. You need the docking station for firewire. Regards John

Hi I have this camera and a Diamond 0.3 lens. Just to be clear, do you mean that footage is overexposed? I've certainly never had this problem. The exosure can be manually overridden - perhaps someone has been 'playing' and done this? Go into the menu settings and check that exposure is set to auto. Regards John

I looked at the subject on this thread and thought 'I know, I'll be a smart arse and mention my unicycling'. Then, whaddya know... Thing is, I think the balance *does* help. So, what you got, what can you do? John