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  1. Not to be the wiseguy .... but try turning steadyshot on? CX 150 doesn't have optical stabilisation as far as i know so that shouldn't give you any problems. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  2. Hi, I got around to determine the composition of my closing pin. Most notable : 16% Chrome 4% Nickel 4% Copper 0.5% Silicium and about the same amount of Manganese If you want to know more of this material try a search for "17-4 PH". -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  3. I doubt the specific material grade would void any TSO'd system as long as it is a proper choice that doesn't corrode, break, bend or whatever in "normal" use conditions. I guess a decent quality control wil cover this. I have put my old closing pin necklace in my wallet. If i get a chance at work i will try to get a general composition of mine for you. But it is not unlikely different producers use different alloys. On the other hand it is also quite likely one producer makes these things and because there isn't a really huge market for it or it is patented all gear manufacturers end up buying the same thing from one supplier and will last several months/years with one production batch. Maybe some riggers or manufacturers can shine some light on this. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  4. 10 karat gold is roughly 40% gold with 60% other metals to create a more wear resistant item... Usually silver, copper, nickel and tin if i am correct... i believe they aren't obliged to mention the exact composition. Interesting to know : Nickel is in the same metal group as platinum, so it could biochemically give a similar irritation. Although i strongly doubt they would use platinum in closing pins and if it was in your jewelry they would make a big deal out of it so you'd probably know.. Could really be worth finding those specifics out... Good luck! -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  5. They call it stainless steel, you basically have that in 3 large groups. The most commonly used kind is "300" series stainless steel. generally they become austenitic by addition of enough nickel. ( the base type 304, contains ± 18% chrome and 10% nickel roughly) The nickel gives the material an austenitic structure and it loses it magnetic abilities if it is fully done right. I just held a magnet against mine. They are magnetic. Witch generally means it isn't a 300 series. Given the function of the thing it would be a fairly logical guess they use a 420 or 431 type or similar... ( Martensitic : wear resistant and not overly sensitive to atmospheric pollutants and saltwater for short periods) These types generally have a nickel content of 1-3%( 431) or even no nickel at all(420) and naturally form a chrome-oxide coating... I think the amount of nickel you'd be in contact with would be fairly minimal. As a disclaimer : i have no idea how severe a nickel-allergy reaction can be... my father also has had problems with chrome plated watches so there could be more evil doers for you... Another disclaimer : there are a few thousands of specific kinds of stainless steel, i am doing some educated guesswork here. I haven't analysed the things although i could determine a general composition at work if wanted. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  6. Ok, i'll bite :) roughy 1.85 euro per litre over here... that should convert to about US$ 9.30 per gallon good thing we have bicycle paths stretching over roughly all the roads... my bicycles don't eat hay :) Edit : a gallon is 3.8 L and not 3.6 L :) -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  7. What was the specific situation ? I'm quite curious about that one tbh. I can imagine the possible issues with it, although i can reach all the important controls with the wings clipped. I can make riser turns and toggle turns with the wings attached to the leg. If i want to stow the slider i will need to remove them - which isn't really my first concern in a potential incident anyways - but everything else can be done without releasing the wings. It has even been "malfunction tested" a few years back :) -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  8. My Symbiosis was delivered with a long piece of tape i could model to anything i wanted. I've made it into a sewn thumb loop i wear under my gloves.( i can even reach my toggles without releasing the clips on my leg) On my previous suit i got a habit of snagging the top bar on the plane with the swoop cord if i wore it over my hand/glove. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  9. I had a safire-1 119, Mine had hard openings until i upsized the slider by ± 20% On my DZ there are a couple of other Safires and they have the warning label in the middle of the center cell, on the seam. They do not have opening issues Mine had the waring label next to the middle seam on the center cell just like the precision aero canopies i've seen. I'm not 100% certain but i believe that is the only way to tell. Those are the only ones affected with the size and tougher openings if i am correct. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  10. I was quite surprised to see a megapixel monster after the recent releases of pro-grade stuff where it looked like the megapixel madness was about to end ... Although it looks like this is intended as a studio machine where the conditions are probably more controllable making better use of those extra dots possible. Can't wait to see what canons reaction will be... ( and maybe keep fantasizing a nice bank balance that can cough up enough to get me some of it :)... My current full frame toy is an EOS33 ;) ) -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  11. The connectors protrude about 6-7mm through the top plate. including the soldered connection it is just a little less than the hype-eye unit itself. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  12. I've attached a pic for you. In the front you'll see the audio connections and behind the stroboframes the video connection near the hypeye. I decided to keep them separate for ease of identification although i originally had them planned next to each other as mystery the holes show :) I'm in the process of figuring out the best place for moving the DSLR a step to the center because I've replaced my HC5 with a CX115 and have a bit more free space now. Then i will also have to relocate the RCA connection as they are going to conflict with the placement of the DSLR lens. This will require a bit of soldering.( 2 leads per connector) This build-up isn't perfect as you see but you'll get a general idea of a possible layout. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  13. I currently dont have pics of it but i have used it in my setup to connect to a tv or dvd recorder. i chopped up an old 3.5mm cable and it comes through the top plate as 3 RCA connectors. this way i'm not continiously unplugging the D connector to dub my video's/debrief. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  14. Have you tried Handbrake ? http://handbrake.fr/ -------- www.youtube.com/l0013
  15. [fun fact] ... most peoples arms are not long enough to reach the canopies bottom skin. This makes them unable to cut only the A or B line. Following logic this means we'll be cutting lines near the riser: Cutting a line at the riser position means A+B or C+D for cascaded canopies. (except from the outer 2 D lines, wich a velo doesn't have) Seeing the big PD logo on the bottom of the canopy i guess this wing does not have direct lines. [/fun fact] Edited to add: I believe I would have done the same thing: Riding it down to a position where material recovery is a bit more likely. I lost my main in the corn last year... Would hate to see that happen again! 4k is plenty for a safe chop in my opinion Also leaves the rest of the load time to land and chase your canopy! But : i do carry a hook-knife and if the line causing the malfunction was this clear i think i would have given that a chance, probably due to losing my gear with my last chop. -------- www.youtube.com/l0013