moreton

I was just wondering whether there was any intension of increasing the depth of the top plate? The width is perfert to fit my CX7 and Rebel XT without any overhang, but with a raynox 0.5 lens on the front the camera would hang off the back or the lens off the front. I was looking for a helmet like this, but with a bit more depth. When it is likely to be put into production?

What's strange is that I also have purchased a Raynox 0.3 (HD-3032PRO) and despite the thread being the same 37mm, they do no include a 37-37 adapter.

I have just received my Raynox HD-5050PRO lens to use with my HDR-CX7. I was surprised to find that there is a 37-37mm adpater ring. As the thread on the CX7 is 37mm do I need to use the thread adapter to get the correct focal distance? What's the point of this 37-37mm adapter? Thanks Ben

Thanks for the information. I think I will get a Raynox 5050 for the moment, but has anybody tried the Raynox HD-3032PRO for filming close up. How do this lense perform? For filming a student close up it would be nice to have a wider lense.

Personally, as a beginner in skydiving photography I was quite happy with the 18-55mm EFS lens. After getting the settings right, the lens took some good photos (one example attached). I've now got a EF 17-40mm, but that's in anticipation of upgrading to a full frame canon in the near future.

As I plan to move up to HD with the purchase of HDR-CX6, I was wondering whether the wide angle lenses currently used for standard definition video are suitable, in terms of optical quality) for HD recording? I’m currently using a Sony VCL0637S, which I could use as the thread is the same. They do sell a high grade lens (VCL-HG0737C), however, this lens is rather large. Does the wide angle lens used really affect the quality of the HD film? Has anybody been using one of the slim lenses (eg Liquid 0.45) with HD?

I would like to get some ideas on what people think is the best camera helmet configuration for video and photos. At the moment I have a FF2 with a PC120 in and a rebex xt (350D) top mounted. As I sense the PC120 is near the end of its life I am looking to get a sony HDR-CX6. This will mean I need to change my helmet and I was wondering whether people prefer a video camera on the side and photos camera on the top (eg: FF3) or video camera on the top and the photos camera on the front just above the jumpers eyes (eg: Kryten freefly helmet form 2k composites). I have mostly been filming tandems with a 0.6 wide angle lens, but if I decide to go into freeflying with a wider lens how wide can I go without getting the photo camera in the shot? I like my FF2 for the snag free video box, but mounting the video on the top and the camera on the front will allow me to change the video camera at a later date without having to change the helmet again. Any suggestion would be gratefully appreciated.

I'm currently using a rebel xt with the kit standard 18-55mm lens and would like to upgrade my lens. I've been looking at the Canon ef-17-40mm and ef-s 10-22mm. The lenses are a similar price, but I'm not sure which one to choose. What I like about the ef 17-40mm lens is that fact that if I decide to upgrade to a full frame sensor camera in a couple of years I can continue to use it. The 10-22mm on the other hand will be just another piece of expensive electronic waste! My question is, does anybody have any experience using the 17-40mm lens for jumping and what do they think of it? I've seen that people are happy with the 10-22mm and that it has a good depth of field, but I don't think I'll need to go as wide as 10mm. Thanks Ben

I think I may know what the problem is, but as I'm not jumping for a month (holidays) I won't be able to fully check this until then. The neoprene camera cover I'm using (Waycool, Australia) is very tight on the camera, especially with the tongue switch connector plugged in. As a result it maybe possible that if the AE lock (exposure lock - located just below the on-off switch), which is positioned where all the velco flaps are, gets pressed accidentially the aperture will remain fixed. I did a quick test on the ground this morning and even when I took the picture and removed pressure from the tongue switch, the time was not enough between photos to reset the aperture. Given the aperture while taking photos into the plane is bag, it would explain why the photos are over-exposed in freefall. I'll have to test this theory when I get back to jumping, but thanks to the advice here hopefully the problem will be resolved. Thanks Ben

The photos i posted are when the camera works ok. I've attached one when the apature jams on 3.5. I was just wondering whether it has anything to do with the settings I am using, or maybe a tongue switch. The focus is set to manual. Ben

Hello I have a Rebel XT with the standard 18-55 lens which i use for mainly photographing tandems. I set the camera on speed priority: TV 400 and generally I get good photos (see attachments). However, several times I have had the camera freeze up resulting in the aperture blocking at 3.5 and hence the photos are completely washed out. Sometime the only way to unblock the camera is to remove the battery. I would like to know whether anybody else has had similar problem? I don't usually keep the tongue switch pressed down, so I'm not really sure why the aperture remains on 3.5. The aperture is generally larger (3.5) when I'm taking photos at the door. Thanks Ben

Earlier this year I had the line set on my Parachutes de France Techno reserve replaced, approximately two years after it was manufactured. The reason I did this is that two packers had expressed concern over the stickiness of the lines. By ‘sticky’, I mean the lines felt tacky and when pulled out of the free bag they remained clumped together. The first packer, 6 months ago had already commented that the lines were sticky and had left the canopy out to air for a week before packing it. The packer also noted that the lines on another Parachutes de France techno reserve manufactured at about the same time were in a similar condition but not as bad as mine were. The following time the packer clearly refused to pack the reserve and told me to send it to Parachutes de France as he felt it was not normal for the lines to be in such a condition. Parachutes de France response after receiving the reserve said that is passed the test and that was all that concerned them. Despite them refusing to admit there was a problem, I believe they have since changed the material used on all of their new reserves. I was so concerned that two packers had expressed concern over the condition of the lines that I asked Parachutes de France to change the line set at my expense. I am writing to find out if anybody has had a similar problem with the same equipment or any other equipment. How concerned would people be with jumping a reserve that has ‘sticky’ lines? On my main canopy, I would perhaps not be as worried, but on the reserve, I do not wish to take any chances. (For your information, my main canopy is a PD Spectre and has absolutely no problem with the lines. Due to an accident (not skydiving), I was not able to jump for over three months and the lines on my Spectre main were fine).