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tosca

lenght from pinstop to pilot chute

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I´m going to add a pinstop closer to the pilot chute to convert a throw out to a pull out (with the pilot chute still packed in the boc).

If you would jump with this: How long would you like the lenght from the base of the pilot chute (where you´re going to hold it) to the pin stop to be?

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I jump this setup. My stop is 16" from the PC base end of the bridle. The simplest thing to do is pack everything up and close with loose pin. Then hold the PC where you want the pin to release and have a helper measure where the taught bridle touches the pin. Make sure the pin gets pulled well before your arm is fully outstretched.

Bob

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Bob, my Lightning packs up very tight in the container; it's only 1 sq.ft. bigger than my Triathlon, but you know Lightnings. This past weekend I had back to back PCs in tow. They each cleared quick, but I don't like to loose the altitude. This sounds like a solution to the problem. Anything I should be concerned about? Chuck.


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Here's more about my setup: I got the idea from Scott Chew of the Wild Humans, but I've seen the same setup jumped by the Swedes and the Russians. It's basically a BOC pullout with a floating pin and a pinstop. The pilot chute is similar to a pullout, but is closed at the bottom with a handle (pvc pipe, ping pong ball, wiffle golf ball - something light and easy to grab) sew inside free to "float". The handle is packed at the PC base so it can be grabbed and pulled easily.

I've attached some pics:

  1. Deployment system as packed (main flap opened to show pin and pinstop).
  2. PC pulled from BOC pounch.
  3. PC/bridle/pin/pinstop at full extension prior to pulling the pin. This is the dimension that needs to be somewhat shorter than the jumpers arm at full extension to ensure the pin is pulled.
  4. The PC is 28" F-111 and marquisette netting (PD mesh slider material would be ideal, IMO) closed at the base. Note the handle.
  5. The bridle is S-folded under the side flaps before the pinstop (seen on top off the side flaps in the photo to show the routing).
  6. PC packing sequence #1
  7. PC packing sequence #2
  8. PC packing sequence #3
  9. PC packing sequence #4

I use a straight pin but I've seen both curved and straight used. Like Eric says, the only problem is dropping the handle before pulling the pin (like any pullout arrangement), but I've not experienced that.

Bob

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The reason someone mentioned to me that you should not use a hackey is because of its size and shape - in a wrap its more likely to get locked into the v of lines and risers and not release. For throwouts orange handles are much lighter and more easily come out, but with the handle actually inside the pilot chute - its even less likely to get hung up.

W

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Quote

Thanks for the info. Just curious though; is the reason you use the "floating" pull handle to get the pilot chute to catch air quicker? Do you think a regular "hackey" pilot chute with a pin stop 16 inches from the attachment point would present any problems? Chuck.



Yes, a big reason we've used a floating handle was that you are pulling the pilot chute out from the apex rather than the top, allowing it to catch air instantly. Obviously, you don't want the handle fixed at the apex because the proper bridle setup will retract your pilot chute through the center ring a bit. If you're using a regular hackey pilot chute, you will need to adjust the pin stop accordingly as the "lenghth" of the pilot chute itself now needs to be factored into the pull. If you don't account for this, there's a good chance that a full arm extension will not be enough to pull the pin.

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