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Hooknswoop

No-Sew Fingertrap

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I'm a bit confused by their directions, but I'll try it out. I gather that the entire running end (which may be several feet long) gets pulled through the locking hole, so that it sort of looks like you turn everything inside out at that point on the line (but I know it isn't really inside out)

-- Jeff
My Skydiving History

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"I tried the technique with 500 Vectran and it was easy, no sewing, and reportedly just as stong as a 'conventional' finger-trap/bar-tack.

Derek

"

Are you sure about using it on Vectran?
I like the idea too, but vectran is supposedly more sensitive to flexing, the fibers break more easily.

/René

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Are you sure about using it on Vectran?
I like the idea too, but vectran is supposedly more sensitive to flexing, the fibers break more easily.



No, I would need to test it. I tried with Vectran because it was the skinnyest line I have. I'll e-mail Jump Shack and ask them what line they have tested the 'No-Sew Fingertrap' with and post their reply.

Derek

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Very cool...and you really can't tell it's even been done...

It'll be a neat "field fix" for replacing lines without a machine too...


"...and once you had tasted flight, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward.
For there you have been, and there you long to return..."

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Jump Shack implies that it is useful for other sizes of line, and now I'm sure many people will try it.

I wonder if it would be any better/worse/different if you pulled the loop through the locking hole, instead of the running end? The problem I envision using the running end is that pulling through several feet of line too quickly could heat the region around the hole to the point where the line strength was seriously degraded.

-- Jeff
My Skydiving History

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I wonder if it would be any better/worse/different if you pulled the loop through the locking hole, instead of the running end?



I did just that...a few times...it seems to work just as well. It's just a bit bulkier to pull through, but not that big of a deal.


"...and once you had tasted flight, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward.
For there you have been, and there you long to return..."

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now I'm sure many people will try it.



I would definitely consider this method experimental, especially in load bearing applications. I think it might see the best use in making loops for attaching toggles without a knot. With a fid, it can be done quickly and w/o a sewing machine. This makes it a lot easier to adjust the toggle setting on a new canopy.

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I wonder if it would be any better/worse/different if you pulled the loop through the locking hole, instead of the running end? The problem I envision using the running end is that pulling through several feet of line too quickly could heat the region around the hole to the point where the line strength was seriously degraded.



I thought about that and not only might it result in a stronger line, but is probably easier to do it that way.

Derek

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I thought about that and not only might it result in a stronger line, but is probably easier to do it that way.


Not only that, but if one end of the line is attached to, say, a canopy, it might it make it easier to pull through (or faster then detatching the canopy, and then having the same problem at the other end).
Remster

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For those interested:

I've tested all the different line types we've got in the loft.

Spectra and HMA worked the easiest. Then Vectran, very closely behind.

Dacron didn't want to cooperate...which didn't really surprise me. It's just too bulky to make work well. I screwed around with it for a few minutes and gave up on trying to get it to "roll" properly once it was through itself.

I don't have the correct test equipment to pull the loops to failure, but I did load them up to a few hundred pounds on our ripcord tester, and they all (Spectra, Vectran and HMA) all came through with flying colors.

Interestingly enough, I tied a doubled overhand knot on the other side of the piece of cord I was working with and that knot blew up quite quickly. I was able to get somewhere around 500-600 lbs. on the lines and not have the finger traps fail...just shows you that the finger trap knot, in itself, is definitely superior for strength.

I like this "trap-through" design. I think you're going to see it more and more in the industry. Hats off the Jump Shack!


"...and once you had tasted flight, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward.
For there you have been, and there you long to return..."

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I've been beating up this first spectra loop I made yesterday all day long. Just kind of walking around tugging and releasing it, squishing and rolling the knot around in my fingers, trying to loosen it up, then tugging on it and loading it up again...seems to be hanging in there so far.

Of course these aren't accurate field condition tests, but doing the same to non-sewn finger trap knots gets them to release right away.

At first glance, I'm pretty confident with this knot, although surely some real "field testing" is needed to be sure...even beyond what Jump Shack has done.


"...and once you had tasted flight, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward.
For there you have been, and there you long to return..."

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I think it might see the best use in making loops for attaching toggles without a knot. With a fid, it can be done quickly and w/o a sewing machine. This makes it a lot easier to adjust the toggle setting on a new canopy.



I would still recommend tying a knot over the fingertrap for attaching toggles, since the Jump Shack method will be hard (but not impossible) to reverse should the toggle setting need to be changed.

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OK, I think I'm gettin' my head round this. But how would I use this method to eliminate the need to stitch a fingertrap on my toggles. Once fully attached the spare line would normally be fingertrapped up the brakeline, yeah? But how would I then thread any line back through, it's already in the line? Or is it not suitable for this application? I hope I've made it clear, here's a diagram (note - I've not shown the actual knot holing on the toggle)

http://www.mentalasanything.com/trap2.gif

Cheers

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The line is finger trapped normally. Then either end (and it looks like taking the loop end through might be a better way to go) is taken through both lines 1/2 to 1 inch from the original finger trap. This locks the finger trap in place, which is normally done by a bar-tack or knot (on toggles).

Derek

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The whole thing is done before attaching the toggle.

It seems to work pretty well and it doesn't want to back itself out.


"...and once you had tasted flight, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward.
For there you have been, and there you long to return..."

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the whole thing gets pulled through and it kind of inverts at the pull through point. It looks straight when you are done. Look at the pix posted above by hook...



Ah yes, I got it now. However, while trying to figure out the right way of doing it, I only managed to do it incorrectly in several different ways... like these for example...:S

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