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Still camera lens for night glow photos?

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I'm taking my DSLR to the Lake Havasu Balloon Festival next month and am wanting to get good photos of the night glow. Night glow is when the balloons are tethered after sunset and they fire off the propane in short bursts. It makes the balloons look like giant glowing lanterns.

My camera came with a 16-55mm kit lens but I've been reading up on photographing fire and fireworks and think I'll need better/faster lens for the shots I'm after. One night I plan to use a tripod and the other I'm thinking hand held so I can get different perspectives.

Thought I'd see if anyone on here has any lens suggestions and /or tips on shooting fire, since we spend time around the bonfires.

Thanks
diamonds are a dawgs best friend

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Lens suggestions are tough to make because you don't say what brand your camera is. The 16-55 you speak of is probably an 18-55, because most of them are, although Sony may have one. Almost all makers have a cheap fast normal in their line up, and that's your next lens to buy. Probably a 35mm f1.8. It will be fast enough, but you'll need to figure out what speed to use it at for the DOF you need. You don't need a tripod, unless you are shooting film. With a fast lens, and the crazy high ISOs available on modern cameras about the only time anyone needs a tripod is with big heavy super telephotos. Or in your case possibly if you want a very long exposure to catch fireworks in the background. Your biggest problem will be getting good focus. With the low light levels, autofocus won't work with any but the newest, and highest end Nikons and Canons. You will need to experiment by focusing on something the same distance away that is lit up, and then switching to manual focus or locking the focus for your shot.

The biggest thing is to go out and practice in similar conditions until you are confident you can get the shots you want. Learning at the event you want pics of is a recipe for disappointment.
Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

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Sony makes a 35mm 1.8 on sale at adorama for $398 and a 50mm 1.8 for $248. The largest Sony zoom is 18-200mm but kinda slow at 3.5-6.3.

The A6000 can go pretty high in the ISO so if you don't want to spend the money on a fast lens you should be ok. Might get a little noisy but should be ok.

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Shooting glowing Balloons is similar to photographing the moon:

You need a very fast (read: light-sensitive) lens, something like a 1.4, a camera capable of high ISOs (the higher it can go without noise the better!) and a short exposure time, so the balloons will still have all the logos and surface area visible and a are not only "glowing balls". You'll need to put the spotmeter only on the balloon and not measuring around it, otherwise it will try to lighten up the background as well and your ballon will be over-exposed. It's not the easiest subject to shoot, good luck! ;)

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This is with my Canon Rebel T1i, not sure which lens, but probably my Canon 10-22 since it was shot at 22mm.
Shutter speed .8 seconds
Aperture at f4.5
ISO 200
Shot at 9:00pm on July 7th, 2012.
"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

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gearless_chris

This is with my Canon Rebel T1i, not sure which lens, but probably my Canon 10-22 since it was shot at 22mm.
Shutter speed .8 seconds
Aperture at f4.5
ISO 200
Shot at 9:00pm on July 7th, 2012.



Nicely done, Chris!

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Nice shot!

I think Chris has the right idea. You won't necessarily need a super fast lens to get the exposure you are looking for.

If it was me, having a good tripod/platform for the camera, and figuring out the exposure to get the glow/background combo I was looking for. As Chris's picture demonstrates, you don't need a really fast lens for that. I bet you could get great pics even with the Kit lens as long as you have a stable platform for it since you may need shutter times longer than you can easily handhold.

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I have better equipment now, but it's not necessary. A crappy tripod will work, just put some weights on it. I often use barbell weights or those ankle weights you find at the Salvation Army. You could even use a gallon jug full of water in a pinch. Put your camera in mirror lock up mode, and use either the 2 second timer, or a remote switch, so you aren't touching the camera when it shoots.
"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

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Oh and start early, there will probably be a very short window of time when you can balance the glow of the balloon with the light level of the sky. I run into that all the time when shooting at near dark, maybe a couple minutes where every thing is perfect.
"If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane.

My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole.

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gearless_chris

use either the 2 second timer, or a remote switch, so you aren't touching the camera when it shoots.



Another tip- If you don't have a remote switch, you can use the self timer on the camera to separates the vibrations of you pushing the button from the stutter opening.

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