Canon EOS SL1 (smallest dslr) and T5i Released

[Arcticanalog 0]

TV and AI servo too right?

thanks dude!

[Jabeln79 0]

I use a Tokina 10-17. The SL1 shoots about 4.5 FPS, the exit shots are pretty good. Ive been pretty happy with them.

Blue Skies
Joe
"Knowledge is the antidote to fear."
--- Ralph Waldo Emerson

[Skydivesg 6]

Jabeln79

I use a Tokina 10-17. The SL1 shoots about 4.5 FPS, the exit shots are pretty good. Ive been pretty happy with them.

Are you talking about tandem exits?

If so are they all in focus and how is the exposure?

I would love to see some of your shots.

I'm using a Canon G10 and I'm having some exposure problems on the exit shots. I think it's because the auto exposure sets to the dark background of the inside of the plane and then doesn't reset quickly enough once the light fuselage comes into the background.

I'll take this issue to another thread so I don't get this one off track.


Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

.

Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

[skyjumpenfool 2]

Skydivesg

***I use a Tokina 10-17. The SL1 shoots about 4.5 FPS, the exit shots are pretty good. Ive been pretty happy with them.

Are you talking about tandem exits?

If so are they all in focus and how is the exposure?

I would love to see some of your shots.

I'm using a Canon G10 and I'm having some exposure problems on the exit shots. I think it's because the auto exposure sets to the dark background of the inside of the plane and then doesn't reset quickly enough once the light fuselage comes into the background.

I'll take this issue to another thread so I don't get this one off track.


Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

.

Sandy... I shoot a G-10 and I'm not having that problem. Contact me. You should have my number.
I do like the 4.5 frames per second. Frame rate is the biggest drawback for the G-10 series.

Birdshit & Fools Productions

"Son, only two things fall from the sky."

[gowlerk 1,910]

Sandy,
A G-10 is a point and shoot and they aren't designed to respond as quickly as a DSLR. The SL1, and any other SLR uses TTL (through the lens) exposure control. Meaning that the camera decides on the shutter speed based on the actual conditions when you release the shutter. (when not set on manual shutter control) Using a wide zoom like 10-17 should allow you to use the widest setting with the lens on manual focus. Just find the place where the nearest important element is still in focus and infinity is as well, the range is huge with this type of setup.

Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

[Skydivesg 6]

gowlerk

Sandy,
A G-10 is a point and shoot and they aren't designed to respond as quickly as a DSLR. The SL1, and any other SLR uses TTL (through the lens) exposure control. Meaning that the camera decides on the shutter speed based on the actual conditions when you release the shutter. (when not set on manual shutter control) Using a wide zoom like 10-17 should allow you to use the widest setting with the lens on manual focus. Just find the place where the nearest important element is still in focus and infinity is as well, the range is huge with this type of setup.

So how does each type camera compare in exposure if I push and hold the tongue switch. Do they adjust exposure while doing this or do they only re-adjust after I let up on the switch.

Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

.

Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

[gowlerk 1,910]

I shoot Nikon, but I`d be surprised if Canon is different. Exposure should adjust for each shot in a sequence unless you go deep into the menus and set exposure lock on purpose. You can also choose to have the focus lock with the button pushed, which you might want to do with autofocus if you have a large depth of field setup. Otherwise many cameras will slow down while they decide what to focus on. You are probably wanting to shoot rapid "spray and pray" frames. Sometimes this works, but many times composing the shot you want is better.

Always remember the brave children who died defending your right to bear arms. Freedom is not free.

[Zlew 0]

Quote

ust bought an SL1 and have a Canon 10-22mm on it. Definitely need some suggestions on ISO, shutter speeds for different lighting environments.

No magic bullet, but 3 basic things make up exposure- film/chip sensitivity (ISO), shutter speed and aperture.

Different people on here shoot in different modes on different occasions, but that can have a big impact on your pics. Shooting AV at f8 will give you awesome depth of field on a wide lens on a sunny day, for example...but will kill your exposure at sunset. Shooting TV at 1/1000th may give you super crisp frozen action with good depth of field at noon, but be too fast for full exposure if the clouds roll in.

10-22 is a great lens, but it isn't very fast (F 3.5-4.5).

ISO- Different cameras respond differently with noise at higher ISO. Play with your camera to find out when your images start to get too grainy and try to stay below that line. Some of the newer cameras handle high ISO extremely well...other look like shit above ISO 800

Aperture or AV priority- lower light you will want it as open as you can get it (smallest number). Faster lens can help here tremendously. But be careful shooting AV priority in low light, as your shutter speeds can slow down to the point of full blur. IMO- if an image is a little dark, I might be able to save something...but if it is a blur it is pretty much lost.

Shutter and TV- Shutter speed will impact your motion blur significantly. In general, faster shutter speeds keep not only action, but the vibrations of free fall and your head in check. I shoot TV pretty often with ~ 1/500th when light is good (usually defaults to a healthy aperture for good DOF). I've gone down to 1/200th a few times in low light...and lower once or twice, but you start getting diecy with my setup going much slower.

I also shoot in RAW which seems to give me more latitude to bump he exposure in post processing than jpg.

Don't be afraid to test. I'll often go out before loading and take test pics with the settings I think will work, and know I'll probably lose 1-3 stops of light by the time we get to altitude. If I test on TV 320, for example, and my camera is metering at F6, I know I have plenty of room and should be ok. If it meters at 1.8.....I'm fucked (unless we are talking dawn, not dusk) and will need to figure something else out to increase my exposure.

The more automatic settings like the magical green box, and P(program) are very risky, as they many times will default to very low shutter speeds, even in moderate light. Sports mode on most cameras usually shoots for reasonable shutter speeds.

I shoot TV most often (~1/500th with good sun, hoping for F>6, and 1/320th in lower light).

I shoot AV once in a while if I really want to insure the DOF I want and have adequate light to not have to worry about shutter speed slowing too much.

Hope this helps

Z