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bliston

still switch problem

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I have an old still switch that I made - it's a 2.5mm plug with a switch similar to a pro mouth switch. It's worked fine and still works with a Canon Rebel X I have as well as with a modified Kodak V705 camera. I have a new camera that it only partially works with - when I use the remote shutter release it only does what a 1/2 press of the on camera shutter release normally does, it only focuses the camera. The camera is a modified Panasonic FP8.

Is there a chance that I have a mono plug and if I buy a stereo plug and re-wire it that I'll be all set? I just don't want to have to throw down $45 for a switch if I can avoid it. If a stereo plug should work, doesn't anyone have a good source for a 90 degree plug on line?

Thanks,
Ben
Mass Defiance 4-wayFS website


sticks!

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Hey Ben. Unfortunately, good 2.5mm stereo plugs are hard to come by. Even Mouser doesn't offer much in the way of a quality plug. I typically use the Radio Shack plug (I think almost all RS stuff is available online), but it is a PITA to solder on to (don't drink coffee beforehand), and the plastic housing is huge and negates the size advantage of this small plug in the first place. In the past I have used it and soldered it carefully and covered it with heat-shrink tubing rather than the overly bulky housing it comes with.

(P.S. Does RS ship to Guatemala?)

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Mouser's got some decent plugs but I find you've got to get pretty creative with their search engine sometimes to find what you're looking for. They also have some molded cables with a 2.5mm stereo plug on one end and bare leads on the other. If I were building a switch I might go that route in order to have a molded, sealed connection at the camera where it's going to be getting handled on a semi-regular basis.
I got nuthin

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I’ve gone through many plugs over the years until I finally found great plugs, which are already attached to the wires, are tiny, and are extremely durable. I use the plugs and wires from the leads used for TENS units (transcutaneous electrical nerve stimulation). They are the small shock units, which are used to reduce the symptoms of pain. Originally, you plug one end of the lead into the TENS unit and the other end into sticky pads that you stick to your skin over painful nerve endings. The leads come with straight or right angle ends and are made to take a lot of abuse when being threaded under belts, through clothing, and around limbs. I cut the end that goes into the sticky pad off and solder the wires to my switch (I use a blow switch). I plug the other end into my camera. The leads are inexpensive and can be purchased through medical distributors. They work great and do not short out or break.

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New plug worked... I simply had to solder the 3rd (un-attached) wire down and it was good to go. Of course now it doesn't work on my older camera. The radio shack plug was bulky and a pain to work with - I ended up lathering JB Quick into it to strengthen it and feel good about it holding up at least.

Thanks for the thoughts,
Ben
Mass Defiance 4-wayFS website


sticks!

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Quote

Of course now it doesn't work on my older camera.



I vaguely remember having that issue many years ago. But as I recall, there is some combination of connections that works on all Canon cameras. Basically, one lead when grounded focuses and/or adjusts exposure, the other lead fires the shutter. If you keep the first lead shunted to ground, it will constantly focus and/or set exposure. Fine, but it wears the battery down. But I thought if you tied these first two leads together constantly, and then connected them to the third momentarily when the switch is closed, it should work on all cams.

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