Set up for GX200

[jjx247 0]

I've just bought a GX200 to lighten the load on my head when taking tandem shots, can anyone recommend what settings to use? I'm a complete novice when it comes to camera set up. With my old camera I'd just look helpless and hand it to someone else , but noone at my dz has the GX200...

[dynamite 1]

At the risk of not being very helpful I'm afraid it's not a camera that you can use with a generic setting.

Even though it's a compact camera, for the best results set the camera to manual and so the settings will change with the conditions.

It can be used in the fully automatic mode and also has a sports mode until you can try and learn something about the settings from the other camera flyers but you'll have quite a few pictures that are shaky. It can be set up in manual almost exactly the same as a DSLR so why not start off by copying the settings of the other camera flyers on the load.

The Ricoh CX1 or CX2 are better options for the technically challenged camera flyer as they only have limited settings to change. The lens is a bit narrower at 28mm rather than 24mm so you have to fly a bit further away. I've been using the CX1 all season, even after the GX100 came back from repair.

[Jonntis 0]

Quote

I've been using the CX1 all season, even after the GX100 came back from repair.

That's interesting. I suppose that's because of the higher framerate of the CX1?

The GX100 should produce better images though? Did you notice any difference in low light performance?


The GR series also looks like a great but rather expensive low weight option. Anyone got experience?


I've spent some time trying to make a CHDK modded compact jumpable, it might work out in the end but it seems there would be so much less hassle just buying one of the Ricohs.


Jonathan

[guscabana 0]

Holaaaa,
I been using a GX200 for some time know, with good results (just for tandems...).
The settings I use:
-manual focus.
-program mode.
-continuous shooting.
-pic quality F4000 (12 mpxs).
-exposure metering multi.
-iso 100.
-camera shake/distortion correction/noise reduction: all off.
-iso auto high: 200.
-the fastest sd card available.
-a nice small wide angle adaptor which gives the equivalent of a 12 mm lens, veeery wide.
-screen off to save power.
-a mini usb cable extension fixed on the camera, then I don't need to unplug it after every jump saving the jack for a premature demise...
-an extra battery always on the charger, to replace it as soon the indicator didn't show full, around 5 jumps.

Is my first P&S and i think is pretty fast, it keeps shooting 1.5 pics a second until the card is full, BUT, and this is my only complain: it makes the exposure of the first frame in the burst (as normal), and didn't change it until you pause shooting (and then take almost 2 seconds to start shooting again). Thats mean you expose the exit towards the plane, and afterward the sky is way overexpose... Is kind of workable if you look outside for the first frame and then look to the plane...
At the end came down to this: a 12mm wide still camera weighting less than 300 grams, that I can jump all day almost don't knowing is there...
For the good stuff I have my nice, lovely & heavier Nikons...
Gustavo

[Skydivesg 6]

Please clarify.

What is the fastest SD card available and how much difference does that make?

Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

[Jonntis 0]

Just curious, were these photos taken with the wide angle converter?

[jjx247 0]

Thanks so much, this is just the sort of info I was after, you're a star One other question, which I'm hoping you can also answer...:
I'm trying to set up a remote switch at the moment (trying to decide between just extending the handcontrol with a mini usb extension or cobbling something together that I can plug my bite switch into), I understand that both options would need to be powered by a AAA battery, how long (how many jumps) do you find your batteries last for your bite/hand switch?
many thanks x

[dynamite 1]

Quote

cobbling something together that I can plug my bite switch into

This is exactly how i've done it, Gus may have done something different. It's quite easy to modify the Ricoh remote switch (CA-1) and add a tongue switch.

I find the battery in the switch will last each day no problem. I have rechargeables and switch them over each morning. I have never had one fail doing this but have a spare in my jump suit and test it on the climb just in case.

[guscabana 0]

Quote

What is the fastest SD card available and how much difference does that make?

A faster card will flush the buffer in the camera quicker and will take less time to download the pics to the computer.
Cards has different classes: 4,6,10, or x133, or x60 speed, etc. The fastest I found is the SanDisk Extreme Class 10, 30 mb/sec version.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/580124-REG/SanDisk_SDSDX3_004G_A31_4GB_Extreme_SDHC_Memory.html
And some (old) tests:
http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/camera_multi_page.asp?cid=6007-9597

[guscabana 0]

Quote

Just curious, were these photos taken with the wide angle converter?

Yes, I always use an old Konica/Minolta semi fisheye lens, single element, weights only 30 grms.
Ricoh sells one, but is not as wide, is bigger and heavier: 110 grms

[guscabana 0]

I solder two cables to the switch inside the remote, it has 3 connections, 2 goes together, check the pics. Cut a little piece in the plastic to get the cables out, and then connect to whatever switch you will use.
I put an energizer battery and still never change it, lots of jumps...I even forget to turn off the remote sometimes...
The last 2 pics are of the complete set up, with the HA2 lens adaptor, the screen protector and the angled USB Mini B Extension.

Good luck and enjoy this little marvel!
Gustavo

[Skydivesg 6]

Gus.

Do you change your settings when there is a heavy, somewhat dark overcast?

Be the canopy pilot you want that other guy to be.

[guscabana 0]

I tried center metering, it helps. Normally I just fly more on level and closer, almost filling the frame with the tandem at the start of the sequence. I think the limitations of this camera makes you think more about exposure

[Jonntis 0]

Quote

I always use an old Konica/Minolta semi fisheye lens, single element, weights only 30 grms.

Thanks, that's interesting. Is it the ZCW-200 converter?

[guscabana 0]

yeep, thats the one, made around 2004 for the Minolta Z10/20 P&S cams, very hard to find now...

[ultimateswitch 0]

Hello Gus,

First of all, congratulations for your photography skydive work.

One guy request us (Ultimate Switch) a new blow swtch for the new Ricoh GXR model. After I read your post, it sems that a simple setup to make, I'm waiting for the standard remote shutter release to make this new Ultimate Switch model. After that I send you a report with photo too.

Thanks for sharing your remote setup, helping me and the skydive photographers community.

Two weeks ago I was at Empuriabrava filming the XStormin 8Way team, and a see other guy using a Ricoh camera, do you now is name please ?

Best regards,

Nuno Lobo Paulo
Skydive Ultimate Switch . www.ultimate-switch.com
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 00351 919 327 315

[ultimateswitch 0]

I received today a Remote Shutter release for Ricoh models (GX200... GXR). (Luxury Cable switch FOR GX200 GX100 R-10 as RICOH CA-1, from http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/treekoala/.

I'm going to prepar the porper setup off this remote shutter for skydive application. Like the Guscabana orifinal Ricoh remote model.

After I finish, I post here the setup with photos.

Regards,

Nuno Lobo Paulo
Skydive Ultimate Switch . www.ultimate-switch.com
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 00351 919 327 315

[ultimateswitch 0]

Hello all,

As promised, I already finish and shipped the first Skydive Ultimate Switch (blow switch) adapted to a Ricoh camera model (new and very light cameras)

If some one want to make it, is very easy. With this setup you can use your bite, tongue or blow switch (all models).

1– Buy the remote control (Ebay) or use the original one (my option is buy a new one from China manufacture)
2 – Open the remote and remove the AAA power battery;
3 – Search the electronic “touch switch/button”
4 – Soldering a 3 wired cable (My example: yellow + white and red on other terminal)
5 – Make the proper connections for your switch model…
6 - Test
7 - Close the LR remote and put the AAA battery oon the right place.

This is a micro switch, be careful with the soldering work.

If some one need help just contact me to [email protected]

Nuno Lobo Paulo
Skydive Ultimate Switch . www.ultimate-switch.com
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 00351 919 327 315

[charlote22 0]

Thanks for you information i newly join and your post help me.

Charlote

[ultimateswitch 0]

Hello Charlote,

If you need any help, don't hesitate, contact me at:

[email protected]
or
Facebook: facebook.com/ultimateswitch

I have on my hands two new Ricoh setup, finished at 5 minutes ago.

Regards,

Nuno Lobo Paulo
Skydive Ultimate Switch . www.ultimate-switch.com
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 00351 919 327 315

[m0l 0]

Hi!

Thanks for the advice and the instructions. Have you tested if this modification works with Conceptus bite/tounge switch?

[Jonntis 0]

I jump a CX4 with the ranch pro mouth switch wired to the remote. The 2.5mm plug on the remote had some play in it, which originally made the remote jam in freefall. It was fixed by splicing the cables instead. It now works well and I guess that goes for any mouth switch with a simple on/off function.

[m0l 0]

The sounds good that you can attach a bite switch to the cable. I was thinking of just adding a on-off switch to the JJC switch that simply keeps the shooting pressed so the camera is taking pictures continously (simmilar to this one http://www.electrokit.se/omkopplare-tryck-tryckknapp-bla-off-on_40220014 ) Then I would not have to have the button pressed all the time.
My second option was to add a 2.5 mm connection directly to the JJC switch where I could attach the bite-switch directly (a contact like this one: http://www.electrokit.se/kontaktdon-2-5-mm-2-5-mm-jack-chassie-stereo_41002164)

On the pictures that is presented above 3 cables are soldered onto the board. To what position should they be connected to on the bite switch? Are two cables sufficient?

[Jonntis 0]

I dont know about the GXR, it is probably different, but the GX200 nd the CX-series locks exposure on the first frame in a burst, so shooting continuously through the whole jump would not work. You would also end up with a huge amount of pictures. I tried the second option with a cheap 2.5mm female from Kjell&co, it had some play in it, and did not work well in freefall. Now that I think about it this was likely the connection that had my system jam, and not the one that came with the remote. I removed them both anyway.

Most cameras used for freefall photography has a 2.5mm jack for the switch, so the idea works, just not with the stuff I got.

I dont know how many cables you need, but I would guess all three, I had a friend soldering the three cables according to the instructions above, and then tested how to connect them to the switch. Two of the cables needed to be on the same pin for the camera to shoot.

/Jonathan

[m0l 0]

Hi Jonntis!
Well I know Kjell&Co and they are not famous for good quality ;-)
I will have to test both I guess. The first thing just keeping it shooting is easy to test by just pressing the handle through the jump and see how it goes. If that does not work I will modifiy for a bite switch.
Do you know if I should use the mono or stereo bite switch?
Go my GX200 now - now I am nust looking for a ZCW-200 lens (30 g wide lens = a VERY light camera setup!). I wonder if there are any other 46 mm lenses with simmilar low weight and not costing a fortune...