Wharewaka 0 #1 November 19, 2009 No such thing as a setting on the stills that always makes great photos, but what is a setting that works the best as a universal setting. Say when it's sun, cloud, overcast but with strong light etc. Mostly thinking about the light and colours. How do you guys set your stills? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
velocityphoto 0 #2 November 19, 2009 Profile says you have 5000 camera jumps , you should already know this stuff. A friend will bail you out of jail , a REAL friend will be sitting next to you in the cell slapping your hand saying "DUDE THAT WAS AWSUM " ................ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freefalle 0 #3 November 19, 2009 If I didn't know how to use mu camera, I'd use the sports setting and go from there. Camera settings used depend on many things its hard to describe. Chuck Bryan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pilotdave 0 #4 November 19, 2009 The ultimate setting: Set the On/Off switch to On. Works great in almost all conditions. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #5 November 19, 2009 IMO, Sports mode with a blue grad on the lens works best. Everyone is going to have a different opinion about what works best in full auto/set-and-forget modes. Each camera has a unique personality too, so the best answer is...Experiment, figure out what works best for you. I use Custom settings in my Canon cams, and often shoot through a blue grad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChangoLanzao 0 #6 November 19, 2009 For the grad filter to really make a positive difference, consistently in freefall don't you have to really pay attention to being level, either head-down or belly-to-earth (or whatever angle the grad filter is oriented), with your subject in the middle of the frame? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #7 November 19, 2009 Quote For the grad filter to really make a positive difference, consistently in freefall don't you have to really pay attention to being level, either head-down or belly-to-earth (or whatever angle the grad filter is oriented), with your subject in the middle of the frame? Absolutely. You've got to consider the angle at all times. using a grad isn't a "one size/fits all kind of thing. But... Attached is an image where I'm obviously not level, and chose the wrong lens for the distance I needed to fly to be clear of the other shot. The grad works just fine, and still adds a nice change in the sky. Even at a "wrong" angle. Because the grad still matches the angle of the camera. For me, I tend to pay attention to being level and composing the shot in most situations. I get fewer stills, but I usually get close to what I want. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHoyThere 0 #8 November 20, 2009 Here's a one page summary for those who want to know what a graduated filter is. http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/graduated-filters.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #9 November 20, 2009 QuoteHere's a one page summary for those who want to know what a graduated filter is. http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/graduated-filters.html Nice page (but filled with odd opinions.) "Never use a tobacco grad!" WTF?? Ok, tell that to a LOT of producers and photographers. "Do it in Photoshop?" Pushing colors and contrast makes for additional noise. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChangoLanzao 0 #10 November 20, 2009 QuoteQuoteHere's a one page summary for those who want to know what a graduated filter is. http://www.great-landscape-photography.com/graduated-filters.html Nice page (but filled with odd opinions.) "Never use a tobacco grad!" WTF?? Ok, tell that to a LOT of producers and photographers. "Do it in Photoshop?" Pushing colors and contrast makes for additional noise. Doesn't adding more glass in front of your lens degrade the image too? I think you can easily add a gradient layer in photoshop without adding an unacceptable amount of noise to an image. I don't know, to me it just seems a lot simpler to post-process in photoshop than to deal with the complexity and cost of using a grad in freefall. That's why it's never occured to me to use one. Perhaps I should give it a try. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #11 November 20, 2009 "degrade" is a relative term. Since you've "degraded" the image before it hits the sensor or film, it's still a pristine image before it hits compression or digital processing. ANY time you can get the image correct in glass vs post, it's the way to go. But at the same time, you're committed. You can't undo glass. You'll find that the "fix it in post" concept works really well for screwing around, but snobby and meticulous people like to do things up front rather than in the back. Photoshop is capable of a LOT, but you're still pushing chroma/luma values around, and that usually induces noise. Bottom line, to each his own and what you're comfortable with. I've even been known to jump with a circular polarizer! (they don't work well for every day use, but they do some nice things if you're working with the polarizer for the sake of what it is) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cphelan 0 #12 November 20, 2009 QuoteNo such thing as a setting on the stills that always makes great photos, but what is a setting that works the best as a universal setting. Say when it's sun, cloud, overcast but with strong light etc. Mostly thinking about the light and colours. How do you guys set your stills? All depends on your camera but I have a Rebel XS and 500 shutter speed and ISO between 200-400 is my most used setting. Get a notebook and log your different setting on each jump and what the lighting conditions were then compare them to your photos. Worked pretty good for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gearless_chris 1 #13 November 20, 2009 I like my circular polarizer for on level shots with sky in the background, not so much for RW from above."If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane. My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #14 November 20, 2009 And I like it if the landscape in the background is an important component in the shot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gearless_chris 1 #15 November 21, 2009 TV/400/ISO 400 is what I start with, then adjust accordingly during the day. Sunset pictures are an art form that venture far from the green box settings."If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane. My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
champu 1 #16 November 21, 2009 http://tinyurl.com/ycevsyl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHoyThere 0 #17 November 22, 2009 Quotehttp://tinyurl.com/ycevsyl Okay, that was funny. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wharewaka 0 #18 November 22, 2009 See this is what I'm trying to achieve, I need to take about 40 freefall pics and I have alps and lakes that the customers want in their photos, but often the sun is located so I need to face the sun to get the best views. I'm pretty happy with my photos but I find that the landscape, is sometimes over exposed in overcast skies. I do experiment and try and I have an good idea of what I do, mostly I remember to switch the on/off switch to on. I use the P setting when there is a few cloud layers and I have not been happy with my photos for the day, sometimes I use the sports mode too and get the best results. No time for photoshop since photos goes to customer on a CD 10 minutes after jumps. Just trying to minimilize the not so good photos. Thanks for your input DSE, always reliable and you other guys too. Got to keep learning or I might become a dick who thinks I know everything, skydiving don't need any more dicks, eh. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #19 November 22, 2009 if you're facing the sun for *most* of your shots, a fill flash would be my response. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vdschoor 0 #20 November 23, 2009 Quote if you're facing the sun for *most* of your shots, a fill flash would be my response. +1 If you HAVE to shoot "into the light" bring your own light for best results. Shoot manual would be another tip, figure out what the right / almost right settings would be, bring your fill flash and go up and get the shots Most important though.. have fun figuring it all out.. and don't be scared to ask questions. I think the real answer to the "ultimate" setting is.. there is none.. If you take a shot that is heavily over exposed.. it might just look like that to most of us, but if it's what you WANTED to get.. that was the "ultimate setting" for you.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #21 November 23, 2009 Quote Quote if you're facing the sun for *most* of your shots, a fill flash would be my response. +1 If you HAVE to shoot "into the light" bring your own light for best results. Shoot manual would be another tip, figure out what the right / almost right settings would be, bring your fill flash and go up and get the shots Most important though.. have fun figuring it all out.. and don't be scared to ask questions. I think the real answer to the "ultimate" setting is.. there is none.. If you take a shot that is heavily over exposed.. it might just look like that to most of us, but if it's what you WANTED to get.. that was the "ultimate setting" for you.. Overexposed "I meant to do that!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChangoLanzao 0 #22 November 23, 2009 Quote Quote if you're facing the sun for *most* of your shots, a fill flash would be my response. +1 If you HAVE to shoot "into the light" bring your own light for best results. Shoot manual would be another tip, figure out what the right / almost right settings would be, bring your fill flash and go up and get the shots Most important though.. have fun figuring it all out.. and don't be scared to ask questions. I think the real answer to the "ultimate" setting is.. there is none.. If you take a shot that is heavily over exposed.. it might just look like that to most of us, but if it's what you WANTED to get.. that was the "ultimate setting" for you.. It's always good to keep in mind that photography can be Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vdschoor 0 #23 November 23, 2009 Quote Quote Quote if you're facing the sun for *most* of your shots, a fill flash would be my response. +1 If you HAVE to shoot "into the light" bring your own light for best results. Shoot manual would be another tip, figure out what the right / almost right settings would be, bring your fill flash and go up and get the shots Most important though.. have fun figuring it all out.. and don't be scared to ask questions. I think the real answer to the "ultimate" setting is.. there is none.. If you take a shot that is heavily over exposed.. it might just look like that to most of us, but if it's what you WANTED to get.. that was the "ultimate setting" for you.. Overexposed "I meant to do that!" But.. but.. it's art DSE!!! It's not an excuse to tandem customers.. but it is if you're really going for a certain look.. I actually have gotten a "talkin' to" from an organizer since he saw me filming into the sun, and pretty far away from the formation.. and then I showed the footage.. End of conversation with the organizer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 0 #24 November 23, 2009 One of our jumpers sometimes jumps camera. He got a Nikon D100 but kept turning the dials by accident so they ended up every which way. One particular jump he shot at 1/4000 sec, which gave him very dark pics of the other headdowner as they were carving around each other, but one shot was publication-worthy as he got an excellent shot of said headdowner shot straight into the sun! After that, we set all the setting on his camera so that whatever the dial happened to be at, chances were the settings were at least sorta right ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pilotdave 0 #25 November 23, 2009 I've been having that problem a lot with my 50D when jumping Cessna 206s. I must rub against the rolled-up fabric door during climbout. 100 blurry canopy shots on a sunset high pull finally got me to put tape over the dials. I was surprised a couple weeks ago how well freefall shots came out at 1/160th, but nowhere near as clear as 1/500th+. On one of my first jumps on that camera, I ended up in the wrong mode and ISO 800. Ended up with all my shots at 1/8000th. They actually looked good! Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
