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HSPScott

New Camera Mount

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I am designing a camera mount track to fit the FTP. The track is 7" and has 5 locking positions. I am thinking of using the pull pins like on the other ones out there. In the process of getting a machine shop to build it. Just wanted to see if anyone was interested in getting one???

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It looks interesting but I'm guessing that there will be a little bit of slop in the fit as it looks similar the goldmember. What I'd love to see is something similar to your design with respect to the ability to travel left or right just a bit, have a clamp instead of a pin, and an "L" bracket so you can mount your still in either landscape or portrait. And last but not least, it needs to cost less than either the RRS mount or a CX100.

I know, I don't want much. Just inexpensive, reliable gear, four day weekends and Hooter's girls packing for the DZ.

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If you make a longer piece with one hole(with or without threads) it might be usable for a prosumer style camcorder.
"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return." - Da Vinci
www.lilchief.no

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ah..let me clarify B|

The mounting plate that you screws on the camera and that slides in the fixed mount on the helmet. :$

I assume your idea is to have the mount installed left-right oriented on the helmet to hold vid/stills? With a pro-sumer camcorder on top it, all you just need to rotate it 90 degrees, right?
"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return." - Da Vinci
www.lilchief.no

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The mount concept sound good. But. I've mounted many of these sliding mounts on various helmets. The mount you describe should work pretty well for a FTP or Wes Pro top plates. As long as the mount does not cover a plate mounting screw on the FTP. On the Wes Pro it will not matter. The real problems arise when you try to mount it on a top "plate" that is molded as part of the shell. I have NEVER found the "flat" mounting surface that was molded to the shell to be flat.
If the mounting surface is not damn near perfectly flat, the aluminum rack or rail will twist or bow when locked down. Three unwanted reactions will occur on a non-flat mounting surface.
1>The tracks will bow open and allow the mounting block will shake and rattle. Not good.
2>The tracks will bow closed not allowing the mounting block to move freely along the length of the track. Not good.
3>On a long length track, it may become twisted. The can lead to the problems of #1&2. Not good.
Will the mounting block for the camera allow for the camera mount holes to be drilled so that the camera sits over the tracks? Not offset to one side of the tracks because the mounting screw hole is offset on the camera body. And will it allow an alignment pin to be installed just in front of the mounting hole to prevent the camera body from twisting?
The mounting idea you are planning sound good. Just don't fall in the same problems the mounts before you have endured. While the problems I've mentioned can usually be adjusted with tape and time, it is still a hassle for a lot of vidiographers to set up when they thought it would be a drill, mount, and go project.
Good luck with your project and I hope you keep us informed on your progress.

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I am designing a camera mount track to fit the FTP. The track is 7" and has 5 locking positions. I am thinking of using the pull pins like on the other ones out there. In the process of getting a machine shop to build it. Just wanted to see if anyone was interested in getting one???



I approached RRS about building a longer mount like that some time back and while they were willing to do it, it would have proved to be a very expensive undertaking. However, I think if more people asked for something like this, they might be inclined to oblige.

My work around was to use 2 of their mounts end to end and flip the lock down levers so that they closed in opposing directions. Personally, on something this long, I would want a locking version as opposed to a pin just due to the many possibilities of where a base could be along the entire length of the mount.
"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

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Personally, on something this long, I would want a locking version as opposed to a pin just due to the many possibilities of where a base could be along the entire length of the mount.



I agree. I've started working on that design. I'll let you know when I get something close.

Thanks all for the feedback. I'll be refining the design I guess...

Blue Ones,
Scott

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I made one from Delrin (Glass reinforced polycarbonate)

You can make it to closer tolerances and not worry about slop or binding - it's lighter - it doesn't need anodising - it comes in black

I used threaded holes in both parts and a thumbscrew.

I would be interested

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My helmet is at the dz - I'm not - If I remember I'll take a picture.

It is plenty strong enough. I use it with a D-Box and a TRV70. I inverted the normal mounting method and put the channel piece on the box and the wedge piece on the helmet. This gives it a very low profile when not in use.

The thumb screw is inside the D-Box and goes vertically through both pieces - this adds to the strength, but you might say it works a little against the "quick release" nature of such a mount.

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