Blink 0 #1 March 10, 2009 I'm looking for some feedback and help on my cage design. Specs: Sized for CX100/CX105 Machined from Aluminum Made to fit Flatlock Locating pin to ensure alignment when camera is removed. The problem I am running into is securing the top cover. I used a design similar to boneheads, with the hinges on both sides, but I don't know what I will use to secure the higne without a permanent pin, any ideas? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billvon 2,382 #2 March 10, 2009 Just run a cutaway cable through it. BTW if you bent it up out of sheetmetal you'd end up with something both lighter and stronger. Use .040 aluminum, cut it, route it out with whatever pattern you like, bend it and add a back piece for structure. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #3 March 10, 2009 Am I wrong in thinking that you need to open the view screen to do just about anything with the CX100? I know a Hype Eye (or whatever its called) can control some things, but the design you have would require you to remove the camera to open the screen and do anything else. How about something much simpler? Mount the camera to the helmet in a semi-permenant way, and design a half clam shell to cover and protect it. Have the clam shell attach to the helmet with a hinge or quick release pin so you can pull the cover, and access the camera while it remains securely mounted to the helmet. That cage sure looks fancy, but it has to allow you to work the camera or it's worthless. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #4 March 10, 2009 Why do you need the screen open? Mine opens for two reasons only: -Set manual focus on backfocus chart at start of day. -Remove card from camera. My cage allows for that, however. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #5 March 10, 2009 Honestly, I don't know. I've never even seen a CX100 in real life, but I did read that there were very few buttons and no view finder on the outside. What I do know is that things change. Settings get switched or bumped during a debrief. If this guy has any plans of doing tandem video, how do you zoom in with accurate framing, either in the plane or on the ground? Above all, the best way to ensure you get the footage is to double check your camera settings during a gear check in the plane (I do mine right before I don my helmet - check it out, put it on, make sure it doesn't get touched/bumped). If you can't do that, you may be shooting in backlight mode, or with the zoom bumped in. Let's remember that you're the experts expert. Maybe not in terms of skydiving, but when it comes to cameras and their opertation, you've got experience and foresight well beyond all of us. Your SOP when it comes to camera ops is not something the average new guy will be able to match. It just seems like a real limitation that the camera itself has, and I can't see how it would be a good idea to further restrict your access by locking it in a cage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bwilling 0 #6 March 10, 2009 Wow! That's cool, but two words come to mind when I view that design... "Gross Overkill" I definitely agree with Billvon, that screams out for a lighter and simpler sheet metal construction! And I feel so cheap by comparison, I'm just fabricating a simple mounting plate and using a Gold member mount to secure the camera to the plate... add in a neoprene camera condom, and it's the ultimate in simplicity! I guess I am cheap though, hell, I'm mounting it to a used Rat Hat I paid $90 bucks for, and the Gold Member is used too! I am having the sheet metal mount plate laser cut here at work though. Sometimes it doesn't suck to work in a factory! "If all you ever do is all you ever did, then all you'll ever get is all you ever got." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blink 0 #7 March 10, 2009 Thank you guys so much for the replies, all the feedback is greatly appreciated. This is only the first revision, not the final idea, I just wanted to see if I was going in a right direction. Some rational to some of the design may answer some questions or address some comments: I was thinking of making it out of aluminum sheet, and bending it, but: I am not sure how I would secure it, because the holes for the FlatLock are 2.0" apart, using a bolt and nut would place the nuts under the camera (supporting it off the base). I got around this issue by a thick base, which I would tap, and just bolt through, keeping a flat base. Not to mention I have limited experience with sheet metal, although I'm sure I could figure it out. I didn't bother allowing for the viewing screen to open because I plan on running a HypEye to control the camera, however, I didn't think about checking the zoom, focus, etc. I think I will change the design to allow for that as you both brough up good points. DSE, if you've got time, could you post a picture of your cage? I'd like to see the design, maybe borrow a couple ideas. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #8 March 10, 2009 Quote Above all, the best way to ensure you get the footage is to double check your camera settings during a gear check in the plane (I do mine right before I don my helmet - check it out, put it on, make sure it doesn't get touched/bumped). If you can't do that, you may be shooting in backlight mode, or with the zoom bumped in. That was part of my point; there is nothing exposed on the camera except the record and zoom button (OK, the photo button is too, but that won't make a diff) The HypEye controls zoom/start/stop, so the one button does it all. the type of lens I use doesn't allow zoom through, so I don't worry about that, and after a few jumps, I've gotten pretty good at knowing what's in my frame without seeing the LCD panel. I don't like having the panel open in the aircraft anyway. That said, i don't disagree with anything you mentioned here. The cage is a tad of overkill; I'm using a cage that covers top, front, back, right side but left side is open for the LCD panel to open and grant access to the card. [edited to add photos] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rover7 0 #9 March 10, 2009 I love the simple mounting method that I used to mount my cx100, which is a top mount using the quick shoe plate. However I jumped the camera a few times and it's not looking that great. It appears to have a slight bit of shake to the video. I am trying to narrow down the cause. Since the camera is mounted to the plate by just the one screw and that mounting hole is offset on the bottom of the camera, the camera will lift up very slightly on one side if I apply side to side pressure. I think this is mainly due to the offset and there not being equal pressure applied on both sides of the camera when you tighten the screw. I'm going to try and put a strap around the camera so I can tighten it down more and eliminate the movement I'm hoping that solves my issues. I don't have a filter on the camera yet...could the wind blowing in the lens cause this shake? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blink 0 #10 March 10, 2009 Thanks for the photos DSE, exactly what I was looking for, is that cage built by Schumacher? Also, forgive my ignorance, but what is that around the lense? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
velocityphoto 0 #11 March 10, 2009 Who did your cage spot? Looks pretty nice.. A friend will bail you out of jail , a REAL friend will be sitting next to you in the cell slapping your hand saying "DUDE THAT WAS AWSUM " ................ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 3 #12 March 10, 2009 It's built by Terry Schumacher, and his work is outstanding. Just be prepared to wait and wait, and wait, and wait and...... (you get the point). for anything you order. The thing around the front of the lens is a rubber shock reduction system, otherwise known as a bathtub O-ring. It helps dampen, and was a fairly critical piece of gear when jumping the HC7 and CX7. I find it smooths out any camera shake (adds a third point of contact) irregardless of OIS/EIS. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
velocityphoto 0 #13 March 10, 2009 I'd like to see some more detailed photo's of how it opens and functions , removes etc etc?? A friend will bail you out of jail , a REAL friend will be sitting next to you in the cell slapping your hand saying "DUDE THAT WAS AWSUM " ................ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Icon134 0 #14 March 10, 2009 QuoteIt's built by Terry Schumacher, and his work is outstanding. I thought your top plate looked like his work.Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingbunky 3 #15 March 11, 2009 nice design will! we were looking at serge's new camera last night, and it looks like you have the locating pin and the mounting hole reversed. but more importantly, what colours will it come in? it has to match. "Hang on a sec, the young'uns are throwin' beer cans at a golf cart." MB4252 TDS699 killing threads since 2001 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blink 0 #16 March 11, 2009 Thanks. The bottom part was just a quick mock up, I did not get a chance to precisely measure the location and sizes, I just put it on for looks. Colours will be whatever Sharpie you have laying around. Working on Version 2.0 right now, will post pictures when finished. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kingbunky 3 #17 March 19, 2009 so where's version 2, come on will!"Hang on a sec, the young'uns are throwin' beer cans at a golf cart." MB4252 TDS699 killing threads since 2001 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedamigo 0 #18 March 28, 2009 I'm planning on building my own GFK enclosure for the CX-100. A friend of mine is pretty good with this stuff. We'll see how it turns out, otherwise I'll buy the one from Tonfly. One question: Should I plan on leaving extra room for cusion (foam padding or whatever) or can I design the GFK enclosure as tight as possible? I.e. when bumping the box on the airplane it would mean "airplane => GFK => camera" without any foam in between. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blink 0 #19 April 12, 2009 Update: Well, between midterms, classes, and prep for finals, I'm managed to arrive at a final design (for now) pending testing. It's going to be machined out of square aluminum tubing to eliminate all joints and fasteners, and hopefully preserve structural strength. It's taken me a while because everytime I came up with a good idea/design, I came up with two reasons it wouldn't work. I guess it's better to realize it now instead of half way through the machining or assembly, frusterating none the less. The cage will be fastened to a special mounting plate that will act as a quick release by loosening two thumb screws. I should be machining it in about a month or so. Will continue to update the thread as I progress. In case anyone is interested in the evolution of the design, I have attached some of the revisions, although there were probably about twenty, I didn't save them all. Feel free to leave any feedback, good or bad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunnelfly 0 #20 April 12, 2009 Round the corners as much as you can, maybe leave more material on the inside of the corners to keep the strenght. Eventually you will accidentually hit something with it and with rounded corners you will do less damage on other peoples property (or your friends heads...). No.1 reason NOT to be an astronaut: ...You can't drink beer at zero gravity... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blink 0 #21 April 12, 2009 Yeah, there's going to be rad's all over the place, the only reason I didn't model them is because I used SketchUp to draw it, which isn't a real CAD program, and doesn't have a fillet option, so rads and fillits have to all be drawn it by hand. Just gives a rough idea of dimensions, size, and location of pieces. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronaldo 0 #22 April 12, 2009 Have you already considered a fiberglass box? I think it will protect your camera much more from Impact, wind and even humidity. You just need to make a pattern with balsa (or any other easy to work material) and then a master mould to produce your box. Hinge the box, drill all the holes you need and paint. Check how I made my camera helmet and the flat top base for it later, this may give you some ideas: http://picasaweb.google.com/ronaldo.nogueira/CapaceteFreeFly# Safe skies RonaldoEngineering Law #5: The most vital dimension on any plan drawing stands the most chance of being omitted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blink 0 #23 April 12, 2009 Wow, nice pictures, and great looking helmet. I was jumping back and forth between the idea of top mounting it with or without. I figured I would probably bump my head a few times, so a box was a good idea. Well, I just don't feel like handing over $200 for some CF and hinges, or plastic and bungee cords. Don't get me wrong, I think the manufactured boxes look great, and probably work just as good, but I just can't justify the cash, so I decided, I can come up with some sort of protection. The reason why I went with a cage design was because I am familiar with the materials and processes required to design and build one. I have never worked with any fibreglass, and don't know the first thing about it, so I ruled it out. I'm sure I could learn, but it would take a while, and would likely be more expensive than the cage. To each their own I guess. Regardless, beautiful helmet! You should type up some documentation and make a thread about the construction. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronaldo 0 #24 April 12, 2009 Thanks, I understand your thinking, we always tend to chose methods with which we are more familiar. Anyway, fiberglass (not carbon fiber) is really easy to work with and also inexpensive. If you have some time search at youtube.com for videos on how to work with it, you may change your mind. I already made a thread about it a while ago: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2144358;search_string=home%20made%20helmet;#2144358 I`m about to order a CX100 too and I will definitely make a new helmet and box. I’ll post the pictures as soon as I finish it. Good luck and have fun doing the cageEngineering Law #5: The most vital dimension on any plan drawing stands the most chance of being omitted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Juzzie 0 #25 April 16, 2009 why dont you just buy a cookie black box? http://www.cookiecomposites.com/shop/blackbox/73/index.htm you can top mount it, side mount it. have it totally sealed. etc etc you got some great designs, but to be honest. I'ld rather buy something that someone else has already put the hard work into. that way you can jump with your camera sooner, and have it work the first time, instead of doing your own r&d.*IF AT FIRST YOU DONT SUCCEED... SKYDIVING IS NOT FOR YOU!!!* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
