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DSE

Controller/no LANC

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Frost glad you got it. The physical dimensions are in the instructions if you want to get really precise.

I really apologize about the delays, but so glad it's finally here. It's been a really long road, but I feel the HYPEYE D PRO really rocks! Hope you guys confer.

You guys remember when DSE asked what you wanted in a controller? Well, I tried to incorporate all your feedback into this product. Hope you like.

Oh and I have to give props out to Steve Curtis. He is the one that came up with the debrief port idea. If you unscrew the HYPEYE D PRO, above the debrief port, you will see "Curtis Port" on the silk screen ;)

See some good things do come out of the Bent Prop! :S

Here are some pics.... Copies of the Instructions and all are on the website if you're inquisitive.

-Trunk

HYPOXIC

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I really apologize about the delays, but so glad it's finally here. It's been a really long road, but I feel the HYPEYE D PRO really rocks!

So does that mean mine should be here soon?

I'm kind of excited now... :)
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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I got mine in! I mounted the controller inside my cookie helmet next to my audible. I did have to mutilate the back of my cookie box. Either way I am thrilled. I would like to figure out a way to wire the debrief port to the outside of the helmet. That way I can just jack into the side of the helmet to debrief. The controller button sits so flush with the halmet it is almost unnoticable.
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Awesome! Looks great...

I'm working with a supplier to get kits in to relocate the debrief port like you are suggesting. Hey one note, somehow mount the display above your eye, letting it loose like that really wears them out quick. I've seen people punch two small holes through the liner and place a zip tie. Other people just gaffer it to the inside of the helmet. You really want the shrink tubing to be against the edge of the helmet, this provides the most longevity. Mount it up there and turn up the brightness B| Looks great though, keep them coming, I want to see other cool mounts.

-Trunk

HYPOXIC

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I got mine yesterday... I ordered the expansion kit as well and proceeded to dismantle switch case to install it...

I mounted the switch to the top of my FTP outside underneath my lens. (I'll take a couple of pictures when I get home.)

Initially the the LED connector appeared to be lose (or because of how I had it mounted) causing the LEDs to be nonfunctional... but I rotated the switch case and pushed the wire in a bit and the lights came on. (it does have me a bit worried, although I do have an original Hypeye I can use as a backup indicator)

The switch is mounted just under my still lens and I may adjust the position later.

I do really like that I can turn on and off the video camera without touching the video camera rocker in the room I was testing it the LEDs were very bright... but outside it may not be as striking I'll adjust it when I'm outside sometime.

I am curious to see how the visual altitude indicator works with my Optima... but that will have to wait until the weekend...
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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I received mine last week, with the expansion kit. Have it wired to my Optima too. Works VERY well. I'm a huge fan, and just ordered another one for my wingsuit helmet.
I used the expansion kit to wire a smaller switch on my helmet, I didn't want to drill out the larger hole just yet, and am putting in a helmet-mounted/chassis mount fourpoint 3.5mm jack for the debrief port.
AFAIC, Hypoxic hit this ball well outta the park. It's a geek's dream.

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Trunk, dude it does not work for the PC range:(:(:( Bummer I stoofed up my lanc port so that would have been spectacualr:)Nice work mate:)

You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

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Icon134, I'm a little confused how the LED cable got loose. There is a hit of hot glue on that connector that should prevent it from doing just that. But who knows on how it was torqued during install, I guess it’s something to look for when the case is open.

Speaking of which, if you haven't already, you may want to place a dab of hot glue or nail polish on the expansion kit connector, this should prevent it from ever accidently vibrating out. Please read the HYPEYE D PRO EXPANSION KIT Install Instructions on the website for the Optima setup. There is a method of testing the setup. Switch to the mode that tests the beep, you know the one where you show Wuffo's how damn loud the thing is :S, this will blink the indicators.

Have fun with it... love to see the pics...

HYPOXIC

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Squeak, That is correct. That is the reason we put the compatibility list on the website. Not all D connector camcorders have the protocol on them. It's for cameras around two years old and newer. If you already bought one, I'm sure you can quickly resell it to someone else, if not, contact me and we can work something out.
HYPOXIC

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AFAIC, Hypoxic hit this ball well outta the park. It's a geek's dream.

The extra cables coming out of the expansion kite are neat no doubt about it... I'm not sure what I need to use the control cable connections but I'll figure it out... B|
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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Icon134, I'm a little confused how the LED cable got loose. There is a hit of hot glue on that connector that should prevent it from doing just that. But who knows on how it was torqued during install, I guess it’s something to look for when the case is open.

Speaking of which, if you haven't already, you may want to place a dab of hot glue or nail polish on the expansion kit connector, this should prevent it from ever accidently vibrating out.

I actually did use a bit of nailpolish and will probably bolster it with some hot glue later (I didn't have a hot glue gun handy... but it is something I'll be adding to my tool set...)

It is very possible that it was just torqued such that the plug was a little bit lose and when I rotated the case a bit it worked...

Thanks for the idea to test out the Optima... I hadn't gotten to that point in the expansion kit instructions so I'll have to test it out when I get home tonight.

Scott
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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Did some googling last nite and found that this thing may be still LANC. It uses the LANC protocol but just on a different connector. Actually, it is combining the LANC jack and A/V in/out jacks together in the D connector. People have found a spare D cable, hacked it and put a 3/32" jack on the LANC signal wires and then plug in their old LANC controller. The problem is that the cable is not very common and that not all cables have wires connected to the LANC signal pins.

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it uses the same controller data, but it isn't LANC. LANC is a trademarked protocol that Sony OEM owns, that is licensed to Canon and Sony Electronics.
In a way, it's just semantics, but the control/remote port has more to it than they're using w/LANC

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Lets settle this now since I can talk a little more freely. It's actually an expansion of the existing "LANC" protocol, there are a bunch more features in it that was not in the past. I think Sony cannot call it "Lanc" 2.0 for trademark reasons.

And you are correct,

Quote

The problem is that the cable is not very common and that not all cables have wires connected to the LANC signal pins.



You guys do not want to know how much money we had to spend to get this connector made. Let's just say I would be an extremely bad ass skydiver if I spent it all on jump tickets and tunnel time.:P

We attempted to make the most versatile, skydiver friendly controller possible. With that said, having been a hobbiest and in the industry for many years, you can always build something on your own. In the end, I have never replicated an off the shelf product for less money than it costs to buy the production unit. With that said, home built stuff generally needs some TLC and will crap out on you at the worst time. I've been down that road... a lot [:/]

Spumoni, work on it if you like, its fun to mess around with. Just know it's a long road. I've been working on it for 5 years now.

[add]
LANC was 5volt tolerant because of legacy. I do not have any documentation from Sony as far as if the new connector will continue to be 5v tolerant. Sony's and Get Hypoxic's A/V R products take in the 5.6V from the controller and run the signal line down at 2.5v. What you are suggesting will take the regulated 5v signal and over-drive the signal line. On cameras that do have a LANC jack this probably will be ok, on cameras that do not, only Sony knows. Just use at your own risk on cameras going forward.

-Trunk
HYPOXIC

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The current LANC protocol enables you to control almost everything in the camcorders (and still cameras) and it is just a matter of sending the right commands and monitoring the status. It is just a 9600 baud serial signal which can be read on a seiral port on a PC. You can use a "lanc sniffer" to find out new or unique commands in new models by monitoring the signal on this port. Here's an link detailing the amount of stuff that can be controlled and monitored.

http://www.boehmel.de/lanc.htm

As well as controlling the basic functions of the camcorder (stop,rec,rw,ff,etc, I've played around sending zoom commands and reading tape time values in the play mode using a microcontroller. Fun stuff if you have the patience!

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BTW if you google

RM-AV2 10 pin lanc

you will see links to people trying to reverse engineer this new 10 pin A/V connector. Probably by picking up the Sony RM-AV2 controller (on Amazon for $50) you can easily figure out the pin assignments and voltage levels with an o-scope.

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