rocketdog 0 #1 March 24, 2007 i have an Aviator freefly helmet (made by the out-of-business Arrow Dynamics). it has a cavity for 1 audible on EACH side. has anyone side-mounted a camera with these helmets? IF NOT, how might i go about getting a custom d box? is it even possible to side-mount since i have an audible cavity on each side? basically, any info regarding how to safely mount it & where to purchase materials would be appreciated. i don't get on here everyday so please be patient -- i will read the replies! THANKS! ~hollywood see the world! http://gorocketdog.blogspot.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gearless_chris 1 #2 March 24, 2007 Please show a picture of the side of the helmet you want the camera on. You may be able to cut the audible pocket out of the side of the helmet. It would leave a hole, but it will be covered by the camera mount. This would keep the camera tighter against your head and away from the risers. Another choice may be the sidemount set up from skydance( makers of the velocity helmet). It comes with a box that goes between the "L" bracket and the helmet. You would have to trim the adapter box to clear the lump from your pocket though. I had problems with riser strikes bending my "L" bracket so I made my own D box enclosure. A store bought D box from bonehead could be bolted to your helmet with spacers to make up for the un-even shape. Fill the gaps between the D box and helmet with silicone after your sure it's lined up."If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane. My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
everymansaved 0 #3 March 25, 2007 I just bought a new Aviator, and I'm thinking of trying to mount a camera to it. I prettymuch had the same idea as Chris, with the Dbox and filling the uneven space with something (not sure what). If I do it, I'll let you know how it turns out, and you do the same for me!God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gearless_chris 1 #4 March 25, 2007 I just found a way to make pics small enough to attach. Here's my latest creation in process, I will be adding a still camera on top also. The big square hole is so I can get to the camera ports from the inside of the helmet."If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane. My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rocketdog 0 #5 March 25, 2007 ok i'm technologically challenged so bear with me.... do they sell dboxes for the majority of different cameras (a.k.a. how easy will this be to find one)? also, i'm not sure what you mean regarding cutting the side -- the inner part or the outter, hard shell? i will try to find/take pics to show you..... keep 'em coming. p.s. if you "just bought" an Aviator, what is their telephone # so i could ask them personally? thanks! ~hollywood see the world! http://gorocketdog.blogspot.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gearless_chris 1 #6 March 26, 2007 I don't think i have seen an aviator helmet before. Do the audible pockets stick out past the outer hard shell or are they internal? My velocity has a large pocket on the right side that sticks out. If your helmet has a large pocket (lump) on the outside of the shell on the left side, then you may want to cut it out (the hard shell). Anything you can do to keep the camera close to your head is good. The camera box will tend to hit your risers while you're checking for traffic, that's another reason to loosen your chest strap after opening if you don't already. Bonehead makes D boxes for most of the cameras we use, they are expesive though. If your helmet is slightly curved you just use shims to align it. Either clear silicone or Touch-N-Foam will fill the gaps and help make it more rigid. The top hinge pin on mine is removeable to open the box for screen access. There will be velcro on the back of the box covering the hook on the end, and JB weld to fill the small gaps between the box and helmet, and to glue in the step up ring for the circular polarizer."If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane. My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
damion75 0 #7 March 26, 2007 If it is the same helmet that I see on the sunshine factory website with audible 'bulges' on each side, my personal immediate response would be... get a different helmet. Sorry. I don't think that compromising the structure of your helmet by cutting large chunks out of it is a good idea. You might get some more responses to this in the camera forum?*************** Not one shred of evidence supports the theory that life is serious - look at the platypus. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gearless_chris 1 #8 March 26, 2007 That's a good point, I was more concerned about fitment than actually using it for protection. I just got my new Skydiving magazine today and found an ad for the Aviator. The pocket (lump) looks big enough to mount the D box or L bracket to. Make sure you put the bolts as far out in the corners of the pocket as possible. The diameter of the camera will more than likely be bigger than the diameter of the pocket so you will still ned to do some gap filling."If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane. My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rocketdog 0 #9 March 27, 2007 yep the Aviator (mine's from 2003) has hard "bulges" on each side where the audibles slightly break the plane. ew, filling space. sounds like a lot of work & materials.... do you think it'd be cheaper just to buy new helmet/mount a camera to that? all-in-all how much does a helmet + dbox, etc. cost? THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP! see the world! http://gorocketdog.blogspot.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Iceburner 0 #10 March 27, 2007 It's a lot of work and materials...but if you know some basics and have the tools or know someone who does, it's pretty cheap to make it yourself...just make sure you check for snag points and things of that nature. I have built 23 d-boxes for different helmets, and it's really not that tough once you do it a few times...i will send you pictures of my work if you want...just send me a pm or something. A new helmet is expensive, and the parts to make your own are fairly cheap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gearless_chris 1 #11 March 27, 2007 The FF2 from 2Kcompostites is a nice helmet. Get the chin cup cutaway. According to their website it costs $245 of their money. I think the velocity camera helmet from skydance cost me $350 assembled. The FF2 will be much lighter than the velocity. Building your own set up will probably cost more than buying one. You're not just buying the helmet ($200-300), you also have to buy the mounting bracket ($75) for L bracket-($180) for a Dbox ,chin cup ($40), eye sight ($45), and cameye 2 ($55) if you build it yourself."If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane. My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pilotdave 0 #12 March 27, 2007 My FF2, with cutaway and cameye installed, was nearly $600 (US) including shipping. But worth it! I haven't found another side mount helmet that's more snag-proof. The cutaway adds about $100. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
everymansaved 0 #13 May 9, 2007 I'm just starting to add the cam to my aviator, and you don't have to spend $75 on an L bracket. I went to a local metal mart, and got an identical piece of aluminum for free.God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
monkycndo 0 #14 May 9, 2007 QuoteI'm just starting to add the cam to my aviator, and you don't have to spend $75 on an L bracket. I went to a local metal mart, and got an identical piece of aluminum for free. I agree on the bracket, but BH's also includes the strap and bungy. Not too hard to make, but when you factor in your time to chase parts and assemble it all, it evens out a bit.50 donations so far. Give it a try. You know you want to spank it Jump an Infinity Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
everymansaved 0 #15 May 9, 2007 Yeah, I don't know. I'm headed out to buy the strap, bungy, and screw tomorrow. I'm estimating abuot $10-15 on parts. It'll take me a bit of time, but I think it's worth it. But then again, my job affoards me a little more time off to work on it.God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
everymansaved 0 #16 May 15, 2007 Okay, so I'm almost done. Here are pics of the cam mount on my Aviator. I still need to do a bit of work, but the majority is done. Parts List: - 3.5" piece of 4"x2"x(1/8") angle aluminum: free -3 "wellnuts" (little rubber nut/grommet dealy): $12 with screws - Strap and buckle: $1.50 - Chin cup: $8 (Hockey helmet style) Total: $21.50 I was kind of concerned about the audible ports placing the cam too far from my head, but it actually protudes from the helmet less than my wife's FF2. I'd say all in all, it took me 2-3 hours. I know she won't be the pretiest girl at the ball, but it'll work just fine. Feel free to ask quesitons. PS: You can call those other two holes in the helmet, um... "speed holes." Nothing at all to do with me drilling holes in the wrong place...God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #17 May 15, 2007 Please DO NOT JUMP THIS HELMET in it's current configuration! You need to take that rough-cut, pointed aluminum bracket and modify it so that the corners are well rounded off (min. 1/2-inch radius), and the edges of the aluminum are filed or milled smooth. I can picture a riser, line or piece of skin (yours or someone elses) slamming against what is effectively a sharp serrated knife, and doing major damage. Plus, you have a major snag point between the bracket and the helmet in the back. You need to fill in that space with something solid that gives a line more of a chance to slip off. I use hot glue for small paces, but that crevice is so deep, you need to attach something solid to fill that void before addressing the little depressions. Also, it may not be as much of a safety issue, but that's a fairly large lens for a side mount, and if it rips off, it may do major damage to your camera as well (but that's your dime rather than someone else's safety). Usually I don't like camera boxes (can't access most camera functions), but in the case of side-mount I think they are advisable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
everymansaved 0 #18 May 15, 2007 That's what I meant about it ot being 100% finished yet. Those edges are sharp as hell, and I have no intent of jumpig it yet. I was just done all the structural stuff, so I thought I'd post it. I'm still thinking about how to get that space filled in. If anyone has any sugestions, I'm open!God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #19 May 15, 2007 Here are three techniques I used on an NvertigoX helmet several years back. Not the prettiest, but they served me well. In the first photo, I took some sort of nylon dowel stock or thick washer. It may have come from a plumbing fixtures repair parts bin (don't remember). Look in your local hardware store. I ground it down on a grinding wheel to match the contour of the box I was mounting. A nut and bolt goes through the box, nlylon and helmet. BTW, nylon or other UHMW plastic is slippery which should help deflect lines and the like. In the second photo, you can see where I added hot glue to fill a small depression that may have snagged a line. And in the third, I found some black plastic 1/4-inch sheet stock that I ground to match the contour of the helmet below an aluminum bracket similar to yours. I had to drill and tap the plastic to accept screws. You have to be creative, think like McGiver (sp?), and it helps to have a well stocked shop or hardware store. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragon2 0 #20 May 15, 2007 McGuyver ciel bleu, Saskia Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gearless_chris 1 #21 May 15, 2007 How about Touch-n-foam (expanding foam) to fill the space between the bracket and helmet. After it dries completely you can shape it with a steak knife and sandpaper, then cover it with JB Weld so it'll look OK. Or you can use Bondo, but it'll be heavier than foam."If it wasn't easy stupid people couldn't do it", Duane. My momma said I could be anything I wanted when I grew up, so I became an a$$hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
everymansaved 0 #22 May 16, 2007 That's a good idea. Like the insulation stuff you get from Home Depot, etc... I like it. The only problem I can think of is that anything you coat it with will probably eat away at it, don't you think? I'm not familiar with JB weld, but I supose it's worth a try.God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skyblu3 0 #23 November 3, 2008 Bump.... How this did helmet turn out. Any pics??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
everymansaved 0 #24 November 4, 2008 Not well, don't do it!God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
beowulf 1 #25 November 4, 2008 What happened? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
