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KennyP

8mp vs 10mp Are pixels that important?

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Yes that's what he uses. Matter the fact he has the older 1st generation one with a Nikon lens mount.
The flash sync is only 125/sec and he can "bump it up" to 180/sec. But it works as you see it in the magazines... Yes it's big and heavy compare to todays cameras. But now he's in the "trap" because he sold all of his Canon stuff when he swithched to full frame and now he still can't buy a Nikon with 24x36mm sensor. (I remember when Tony was shooting with a D60 cost as much as the 5D now).
-Laszlo-

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full frame sensor is nice to have, but not at all totally necessary... the biggest pain, is on the short end of things, 15mm lens = 20mm but thats not the end of the world if you know ahead of time and plan accordingly..

its a bonus if youre shooting land-based action sports from afar with a telefoto because now your 200mm=250mm.

(math may be jacked, but principle is the same...)


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full frame sensor is nice to have, but not at all totally necessary... the biggest pain, is on the short end of things, 15mm lens = 20mm but thats not the end of the world if you know ahead of time and plan accordingly..

its a bonus if youre shooting land-based action sports from afar with a telefoto because now your 200mm=250mm.



It's also a bonus because at extreme wide angles, using an EF-S lens (like the 10-22 I have), you can get rid of fisheye distortion almost entirely. Unless of course you like the fisheye, then I guess not so much a bonus (although you can get the fisheye with other lenses). This is because of the crop factor (I think), right?

I will ask something that will show my ignorance... I honestly don't know. What are the major benefits of full frame? I've seen 5D pictures and in some cases they seem noticeably better than a picture from an XT, but what is the photographic reason for this?
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

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The advantage of the full frame is you have more room to play with depht of field, you actullay get the full coverage of the lens, and better image quality too. (as you noticed already)
The reason is you get better colors, less noise, and more dynamic image is the size of the indivisual pixels in the image sensor. The 5D has a 4368x2912 resolution (12.7MP) on the 36x24mm sensor plate vs. the 30D's 3504x2336 (8.2MP) on the 22.5x15mm sensor plate. Now if you take the time and do the math the 5D has 4 times bigger indivisual pixels in its sensor. That means it can collect more light (more signal) with each pixel so the colors are detected more accurately with significantly less noise. Because of that I can bravely say when I use ISO400 is on my 5D just as smoth as the ISO200 is on my XT. And top of that just the fact of the nearby 13MP resolution. More res.=More detail.
-Laszlo-

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One advantage of the cropfactor though is that you use the best part of the lens if it was made for FF, namely the middle part. This means you can get away with cheaper glass and still get good quality.

My favourite zoom on my old Canon D30/300D was an old f2.8 zoom, with a chip in the glass near the edge. So I could buy it real cheap. I saw some light refraction due to that maybe twice in like 15.000 pictures :)
edit: oops, D30, 30D, why make two cameras with so similar a name :S

ciel bleu,
Saskia

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What Laszlo said is exactly right, but the 5d, 1D etc have a disadvantage (depending on how you look at it of course) in that you HAVE to have good (generally heavy and expensive) glass. For Canon that can mean the L series and the top end sigma stuff, although there are noticeable exceptions to this. Lenses tend to be weaker around the edges, and with the full frame cameras you are using the edges of the lens whereas the same lens on the 1.6 will lose some of the vignetting, softening etc.

The canons have very good low light noise as well, especially on the 5d. This is one region where the canons are far better than the nikons. In the right conditions, both primary manufacturers are awesome. on the margins canon tend to shade it.
Like someone else said look at the pros - the vast majority of sports photographers use Canon, but if i had nikon glass i would stick with Nikon. anyway I'm not good enough for it to make a difference to me.
Never try to eat more than you can lift

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People say a lot of good thing about it. I personally try to stay away from zoom lenses in free fall.
They heavy and more "sensitive" in free fall. I've been using zoom lenses before and when I was too lazy to tape it for protection, caused an error signal in my camera multiple times. With protection they worked fine but still too heavy...
For free fall I prefer fixed lenses. Of course this way is more expensive since I have to buy different lenses for different focal lenghts. But I make sure I get paid for my photos too!
-Laszlo-

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you guys bitch more than us BASE jumpers!!!

I have a 400D (XTI) and a nice 17-85 chunk of glass, and it works really well. i just started jumping it last weekend, before that i was just doing ground based photography.

I let my freind jump it for a dr bill jump, and the bitch hit the lense on the door, zooming it in.

so, zoom lenses are bad. im also to lazy to tape.

the pics i get from mine compared to my freinds XT are nicer, at least i think. thats just for ground based photos.

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Hi Guy and Gals,
I'm back and cross-eyed from reading up on cameras. My question is; if I'm not going to be blowing up anything more than... say 8x10... Is there a huge difference between a 8mp and a 10 mp camera? ?
TIA Ken



http://www.sspline.com

Interpolation means no, it doesn't matter. You can do this in Photoshop or use a program such as the one above.
I have a D70s but I also have a D1H NIkon that cost me $5400 in 2002. It is only 2.74MP and I have printed stuff to 11x14 and bigger no problemo. Just remember to turn the "in camera" sharpening OFF! All that should be done post shoot anyway.

The pic attached was printed 11x14 after being cropped. Original was 4x6@ 300dpi but I used an action in PS to interpolate it up to 11x14@ 300dpi and it printed nice and crisp.

Yo
SabreDave

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Do you or anybody else use/have an opinion on the 10-22mm zoom?



I do. I love this lens. It's actually only .03lb heavier than the Sigma 15mm and .11lb heavier than the canon 15mm

How ever it is a bit longer, so may not be great for forehead mounting. I made my own top mount bracket that supports the lens and has a 1" velcro strap that locks the zoom and focus rings in place.

It is expensive, but so are multiple fixed lenses. I'd recomment a canon 20mm if you really want fixed.

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...a dr bill jump...



He finally graduated from medical school, huh?? Congrats!

Dave



its just like a mr bill, but with connections between the jumpers in the form pf PG 4 ring tow releases. full-airspeed and terminal openings are possible.

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its just like a mr bill, but with connections between the jumpers in the form pf PG 4 ring tow releases. full-airspeed and terminal openings are possible.



I though something like that got called a tandem ;)

Carlos Martins
Portugal www.cj.smugmug.com

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Hey Luke, I'm curious about your setup. After a lot of reading, I think the canon with a 10-22mm is a good starting point. Do you have a picture of the bracket? I have a hawk eye helmet with a side mount video and plan on putting the camera on top. I haven't got the camera or lens yet but I'm thinking about support for the lens so the body doesn't have to absorb the opening shock of an unsupported lens.

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Interesting how prices fluctuate. The silver XT body was $484.95 at Bhphotovideo 2 weeks ago. I snagged one and had some fun with it this weekend. I checked with some tandem students who hadn't ordered video to see if I could tag along.

I was in KennyP's position a couple weeks ago... had done lots of reading and I wasn't sure what to get. I'm glad I bit the bullet and spent some $$ on the camera and a 28mm fixed lens. I'm looking forward to learning more about video/stills this summer. Attached is a photo I took yesterday with automatic 'no flash' setting on the XT, auto focus enabled on the 28mm lens. I think the XT makes it easy to start out with very little knowledge, but with capability to tweak it manually as you learn more.

Chris

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I've been doing some on-line shopping and found the best prices for the camera and lenses at Broadway photo http://www.bwayphoto.com/product.asp?id=cneosrdxtblk

But they'll rape you on accessories. Look at the price for the 512 mb flash ($219). You can get an 8 gig ultra II at BH photo for 129.95. Same deal on filters.

Anyway with the body(XT), lens(10-22mm), filter, hood, and flashcard, I'm already over $1k. I still need to set up a mount and get a mouth switch and I can get started taking pictures. Of couse then I'm going to want a good wide lens (for the 22mm and above shots) and an external flash... Yea this is going to be over $2k in a hurry. At least I already have a helmet and sight.

Anyway it's sunny and temp is in the upper 60's. I need to jump. Thanks for all the advice.
Later

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