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carternick79

Manfrotto 394

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Okay, So I posted this on another part of the forums cause I didn't know this was here.. Sorry for the repost...

Is anyone using a Manfrotto 394?? If so, when you got it were the holes where you mount it to the helmet drilled all the way thru??? Mine are not and I also didn't get any hardware so I am wondering what type of screws to use and did you countersink your mounting holes???? Got any pics of ya'lls set up???

Thanks guys!!!!
*** That what does not kill me only makes me stronger and that what makes me stronger only feeds my hunger ***

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The 3233 *is* a Manfrotto, just not the model you're looking at.
Aren't you concerned about the hook/release armature at the front of the 394? Seems like a snag hazard to me. You could face it backwards, but if it's on an FTP for instance, it couldn't face backwards, and I sure wouldn't want it facing sideways or frontways.

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I have used the predecessor to this bracket on a couple of helmets. As I recall, there is one tripod screw hole (1/4-20) that is in the center that goes all the way through. I drilled and tapped my own secondary holes to keep it from rotating as well. I don't recall if there were other holes stock though. If you have taps, it is soft metal that tool well.

It is a well-built bracket, but I don't recommend it for skydiving. I did lose two cameras using this bracket though. Real sick feeling watching your SLR bounce off your foot on opening. So I now use the Stroboframe bracket on my main (Vapor) camera helmet.

I dug up an old photo that kinda shows how I used to mount it.

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About half of the cameracrew on my dz uses that model. Mine is on a custom helmet, sorta like a ft narrow. Mine has 3 holes that go all the way through, no clue how it was fixed to my helmet as I let someone else do that ;) But the holes on the bottom piece should go through all the way yeah. http://www.pictureline.com/images/medium/BO3270_394plate.jpg
I have one old one and one new one, most people get rid of the whaddayacall it, see-if-something-is-horizontal thingie on the side of the new model.

ciel bleu,
Saskia

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How on earth did your manfrotto fail?
If it is used correctly the only way it can fail is if it is not snapped into place correctly, the screw comes undone or the unit breaks(and that is not likely) I have seen a couple of stroboframes fail but never a manfrotto?

I did well over 2000 jumps with the same manfrotto model you had and I got it second hand from a tandem factory and it already had 1000's of jumps on it.

It is a solid unit and with my top mount I had at the time(blade helmets) there was no snag hazard whatsoever!

stroboframes are far less sturdy and more susceptible to failure than a manfrotto.

The newer small manfrottos are wonderful because you don't have to take the unit off to change the battery on a EOS350d.
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power, then the world will see peace." - 'Jimi' Hendrix

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How on earth did your manfrotto fail?



Both times were whacker openings. I'm reasonably sure the riser struck the lever. The geometry of that lever is such that the same direction of force that depresses the level is the direction that pushes the lever to the side to release it. There was no way that that lever didn't stick out some direction (side or front) on my helmet. Maybe it would be different with another helmet. I did keep my Bogen on my freefly helmet for a while.

I retrieved both cameras (one film, one DSLR), and nothing was broken on the plate, and all screws were secure. My hook-up procedures include a double check of the mechanism latching. (That is one thing I did like about the Bogen is that you knew it was latched.)

But the Stroboframe is smaller, slightly shorter, and completely covered by a normal SLR so it you have to stick your finger under the camera to release it making an accidental release unlikely (I think it is lighter as well, but I'm not sure on that one). Well over a thousand jumps with my current Stroboframe without a problem.

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Hi

I have a 394. I cut the protruding bubble-level off, then drilled and tapped a number of M4 holes - it's only aluminium, but it's reasonable thick. I put it on the flat bit on my helmet, and marked through the holes with a pointy thing and drilled clearance holes. The plate is then screwed to the flat bit from inside the helmet with dome-head screws - penny washers help spread the load on the helmet.

I haven't got it in front of me, but I'm pretty sure that a simple riser strike can't release the plate. The lever goes one way and the button on the lever (that you need to press to release the lever) goes the other way. In any event, it's under the edge of the camera on my setup.

There isn't a millimetre of movement of the plate - it's held by wedges and a cam on the lever. Very solid.

Regards
John

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The lever goes one way and the button on the lever...goes the other way



I looked at a photo of the new one (394) on B&H, and I think you are right. That looks like an improvement. I had the older version; the one without the bubble levels, and its button pushed straight in.

I could never get those bubbles level in freefall anyway...

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I am using one, and yes, i drilled the wholes all the way through. I also made a 3rd one. I made the beginning of the holes deeper, so that the screw does not interfeer with the top plate. Was not so hard to do.


Check out the site of the Fallen Angels FreeflY Organisation:
http://www.padliangeli.org

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