exposure issues on cloudy day

[barnett 0]

After filming a couple of tandems today I was irritated to find that the first really decent footage I have taken (still new to camera flying) was somewhat spoiled by the subject being underexposed to the point where it is difficult to see faces on the tape. The sky was overcast giving a fairly poor looking background, and the glare from this background seems to have confused the camera into exposing for the cloud and not the subject. I definitely did not have the backlight button on. I don't use a UV filter, would one help? I had the sun behind me, but no shadow was cast as the light was too diffused to cast any. Whilst flying above the tandem the problem wasn't too bad, but when flying in close and looking up from slightly below all colour washed out and the look of excitement on the passengers' face became difficult to see. I have been told that these are the hardest conditions to get good footage and after today would have to agree. My camera is a sony DCR-H 42 with a Giotto .45 lens, and I set the focus to infinity with the exposure left on auto. I don't think manual exposure would help because A: It would involve guess work that is too variable as lighting can change quickly during jump run and in freefall and B:The exit might look good but the freefall poor or vice versa. Help please!!!

[piisfish 135]

It happens... My dream setup would include a spotlight in order to avoid/minimize that kind of problem.

scissors beat paper, paper beat rock, rock beat wingsuit - KarlM

[barnett 0]

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It happens... My dream setup would include a spotlight in order to avoid/minimize that kind of problem.

If only... By the way, after watching your footage of the helmet entanglement I spent the extra $ and ordered a helmet with chin cup and cutaway...

[piisfish 135]

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after watching your footage of the helmet entanglement I spent the extra $ and ordered a helmet with chin cup and cutaway...

good choice. Safety has no price
Also remember : if you use a ringsight, mount it with nylon screws... And when you throw, THROW

scissors beat paper, paper beat rock, rock beat wingsuit - KarlM

[Laszloimage 0]

Go to the menu and find "Program AE", after selecting that find the little palm tree symbol or the window says "Beach&Ski". Choosing that AE setting will help. It won't make a miracle though, but it will deffinetly make a differece.
The colors will be a bit strange too, but at least the face will be more recognizable. I use this in the light conditions what you described. Of course a powerfull camera light would be the real solution, but this a tandem video not a movie production...

-There's no camera setting which always works!-

-Laszlo- www.laszloimage.com

[barnett 0]

Isn't it funny that settings that may be obvious on the ground some how escape us in the air... I'd forgotten about that setting, thanks heaps, and here's hoping i won't need it because of all the blue sky out there!

[vdschoor 0]

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-There's no camera setting which always works!-

What he said..

Also, in those kind of conditions, I try to fly really close, but since you said this was one of your firsts... get some practice first before getting close.

[velvetjo 0]

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My camera is a sony DCR-H 42 with a Giotto .45 lens, and I set the focus to infinity with the exposure left on auto.

Be careful about setting focus to infinity. A better bet to maximize depth of field is to set your camera for the hyperfocal distance of your lens combination. You can do this very simply by setting your camera on AF, pointing it at an object about 20-30 feet away, and then switching to MF while it's still focused on this object.

I've made this focus setting part of my video prep routine for my HC-40 w/ Royal 0.5 lens setup, and it works like a charm. I've had the camera go back into AF mode occasionally when changing batteries between loads, so it's worth a quick look through the viewfinder anytime you do that.

I can't help you as much with the exposure issue - my HC-40 seems to do a pretty good job in this situation. I've seen what you're talking about with PC series cameras shooting tandems on the same overcast day loads, but for whatever reason the HC handled it better, even on auto-exposure. Kinda surprised all of us - we figured my video would be washed out as well.

Lance

[DSE 3]

Haven't tried it on a jump, but have used mini-mag flashlights with LED vs filament. Has worked really, really well for some of the reality and doc work.
Could this work in freefall if you avoided snag points or used heavy Velcro to hold light in place?

[Miami 0]

Don't see why that wouldn't work. Might need a diffuser on them to even out the light but that would be pretty easy to do...

Miami

[vdschoor 0]

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Haven't tried it on a jump, but have used mini-mag flashlights with LED vs filament. Has worked really, really well for some of the reality and doc work.
Could this work in freefall if you avoided snag points or used heavy Velcro to hold light in place?

Yup.. that would work..

I've used the Sony video lights too (the ones that mount on the camera shoe, but that operate without being mounted on the camera) and they work GREAT.


I use this one: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=367190&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

[Laszloimage 0]

Focusing 20-30feet away?
If you're focusing for example to 20' with the relative high F stop like 8 the closest thing will be in focus about 13'. Also there's another factor, the size of the chip... But still hard to belive it will be still in focus only from 3-5feet (avarege distance on tandem videos) if you're setting manally to 20-30feet.
He didn't have the problem with focusing anyway...
Otherwise it worked the same on all my cameras the, zoom out and use the manual focus set to infinity.
-Laszlo-

[velvetjo 0]

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Focusing 20-30feet away?
If you're focusing for example to 20' with the relative high F stop like 8 the closest thing will be in focus about 13'. Also there's another factor, the size of the chip... But still hard to belive it will be still in focus only from 3-5feet (avarege distance on tandem videos) if you're setting manally to 20-30feet.
He didn't have the problem with focusing anyway...
Otherwise it worked the same on all my cameras the, zoom out and use the manual focus set to infinity.
-Laszlo-

I get what you're saying about the 20-30' distance being a little far, but it works with my setup. Crisp images, even up close. Focusing on anything closer with AF seems to make things worse, so it may be as much a function of the AF sensor as anything else. Would the use of a single-element wide angle lens factor into this?

As far as setting cameras for infinity, it seems like you'd sacrifice even more depth of field than what I describe above (backing slightly off infinity). I'm not sure exactly what you're getting at, other than infinity settings work for your setup. Since the HC-42 is very similar to my camera and he mentioned using infinity for focus, it seemed like a good idea to share something I'd found to be useful with a new video flyer. That's bad how?

Lance

[Bagheera 0]

Any advice from you guys is good at my level of experience. I have no focus issues but that hyperfocal link explains another way of doing things that at the very least is worth trying. I am flying consistently enough that being close is not challenging to the point of being dangerous for me or the tandem, infact after reviewing the footage I think if I fly any closure I'll need a wider lens (.45 certainly won't do what .3 will at that distance). I have yet to have anyone tell me how much difference a UV filter would make, some camera flyers tell me they use one all the time for all lighting, what's the opinion on this one out there?

[barnett 0]

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Any advice from you guys is good at my level of experience. I have no focus issues but that hyperfocal link explains another way of doing things that at the very least is worth trying. I am flying consistently enough that being close is not challenging to the point of being dangerous for me or the tandem, infact after reviewing the footage I think if I fly any closure I'll need a wider lens (.45 certainly won't do what .3 will at that distance). I have yet to have anyone tell me how much difference a UV filter would make, some camera flyers tell me they use one all the time for all lighting, what's the opinion on this one out there?

oops was logged in as a friend who was using my computer, that post was from Barnett

[bofh 0]

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I have yet to have anyone tell me how much difference a UV filter would make, some camera flyers tell me they use one all the time for all lighting, what's the opinion on this one out there?

Most digital video and still cameras have an UV filter infront of the sensor, so an extra UV filter before the lens does not make much good for the picture quality. It can be nice to have as a protection for the lens though, depending on the price of the lens & filters.

[jtval 0]

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good choice. Safety has no price

yes it does; its $35, isn't it

My photos

My Videos

[Fast 0]

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-There's no camera setting which always works!-

What he said..

Also, in those kind of conditions, I try to fly really close, but since you said this was one of your firsts... get some practice first before getting close.

Yeah. I just put the camera right in thier face for a good portion of the jump. I hate cloudy days

~D
Where troubles melt like lemon drops Away above the chimney tops That's where you'll find me.
Swooping is taking one last poke at the bear before escaping it's cave - davelepka

[barnett 0]

Just had a look at some other peoples' footage and I think I need to retract my statement about needing a wider lens if I fly any closer. When someone is screaming you can't be too close!

[piisfish 135]

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good choice. Safety has no price

yes it does; its $35, isn't it

including all taxes, shipping and handling it brings the price to 42

I checked for the Sony light linked a bit higher and the price here is the double than the price at BH

scissors beat paper, paper beat rock, rock beat wingsuit - KarlM