The111 0 #1 March 7, 2006 I haven't started drilling yet, but last night I was positioning everything where I wanted it on my helmet and ran into a small problem. Helmet = Optik Illusion. Currently I have video topmounted, center, in a TRV style D-box. My plan was to move the video over to one side, and add a sharkfin in the center and mount the stills vertical on the other side. See the attached pic "visionair" for an illustration. I found this guy's setup in an old thread and I wanted mine to be very similar, only without strobo's (to keep the height down), and the sides would be swapped on mine (since remote plug is on opposite side on my XT). Anyway, the issue I ran into is this. I want to keep the cameras as close together as possible to keep the width of the setup down. But I realized if I put them as close as I can, that there will be no access to the screw holding the XT to the sharkfin. See attached pic "mount". Blue = DV D-box. Red = sharkfin. Green = XT still. Yellow = mounting screw. The only solutions I can come up with are: 1. Mount them as close as possible and go through the inconvenience of taking the entire sharkfin off whenever I want to remove the still camera FROM the sharkfin. 2. Mount them with a wide enough gap to be able to reach the screw with my fingers (to take this route I would have to sacrifice desired width, which I do not want to do). Other possibilities include finding a lower profile screw than the standard "thumbscrew"... perhaps one with a low profile hex head that I can slide a thin wrench in to access? Also I could add a strobo for the video which would allow me to slide it out of the way to access the thumbscrew, but I really don't want any strobo's on this assembly. Just wondering if there are any obvious options I overlooked. Really wishing I had bought FTP instead of Optik Illusion now. Was afraid of looking stupid by buying a "Pro" helmet for my first one and only putting a tiny D-box on top, but I should have taken the advice I got to "buy a helmet I could grow into, instead of one I'd grow out of". www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miami 0 #2 March 7, 2006 How about putting a quick release on the shark fin itself for the still? Then you don't have to worry about the thumbscrew.Miami Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #3 March 7, 2006 That is a good idea that actually had occurred to me briefly before. I was thinking against it since it would add a bit of width, but honestly the thumbscrew itself probably would add just as much! This may be the best solution, thanks. And it would be convenient...www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pbla4024 0 #4 March 7, 2006 And what about puting shark fin outside to have Rebel between it and D-box? Fido Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #5 March 7, 2006 That's an option too... but the mounting platform on the Optik Illusion tapers back on the outside, it looks like a big trapezoid from the top. Will have to take a look at that option again. I like it though in that the sharkfin would protect the outside of the camera.www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueSBDeath 2 #6 March 8, 2006 Your best option is to use a FTP. It will be much cleaner, better functionally, and safer too. Just MHO. Stay safe, ArvelBSBD...........Its all about Respect, USPA#-7062, FB-2197, Outlaw 499 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LouDiamond 1 #7 March 9, 2006 QuoteI want to keep the cameras as close together as possible to keep the width of the setup down Then this is definately one way to to do it cleanly. I was thinking about changing my set up to this configuration a while back and this will fit on the top surface of the OI. QuoteReally wishing I had bought FTP instead of Optik Illusion now Trust me on this one, as I have a FTP that sits on the shelf except for tandems.The FTP is not what you want for wingsuiting, its just a major pain in the ass for what we need it to do.Try flying one and you'll see what I mean."It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required" Some people dream about flying, I live my dream SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #8 March 10, 2006 Well, here it is...www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
velocityphoto 0 #9 March 10, 2006 Looks like a line or risor could fit under that still camera very easily! I'd use some gaffers tape on that . my 2 cents A friend will bail you out of jail , a REAL friend will be sitting next to you in the cell slapping your hand saying "DUDE THAT WAS AWSUM " ................ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
freefalle 0 #10 March 10, 2006 Looks good Matt, you going to be in Sebastian this weekend? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steveorino 7 #11 March 10, 2006 QuoteLooks like a line or risor could fit under that still camera very easily! I'd use some gaffers tape on that . my 2 cents ditto that! First thing I thought of when I saw the pic steveOrino Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #12 March 10, 2006 Yes, I'll cya there Chuck. Thanks for the suggestion guys, I will tape that up and in the future see if I can close that gap some by moving the camera down. One reason I posted the helmet was to see if anybody had any suggestions like that. www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deuce 1 #13 March 10, 2006 Just reverse the still camera mount so that the mounting plate is to the outside and the top of the still camera is pointed to the middle. That will reduce the snag risk and protect the camera from getting smacked by the door, etc. Your video camera looks a little snagadelic, but no more so than if it was sidemounted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueSBDeath 2 #14 March 11, 2006 Well done Deuce!!! You beat me to the punch!!! Looks good other wise, nice set up!!! ArvelBSBD...........Its all about Respect, USPA#-7062, FB-2197, Outlaw 499 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #15 March 11, 2006 QuoteJust reverse the still camera mount so that the mounting plate is to the outside and the top of the still camera is pointed to the middle. I tried that before and I'm pretty sure there's not enough space to do it. I'll check again but I don't think it's possible... unless I make the d-box hang off even more, and if I did that I'd lose a lot of mounting surface area.www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlueSBDeath 2 #16 March 11, 2006 If you do it the way "D" recommends, then you do not need the camera mount, you just need a standard mount screw. ArvelBSBD...........Its all about Respect, USPA#-7062, FB-2197, Outlaw 499 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Unutsch 0 #17 March 14, 2006 just a question: is the weight centered? it looks to me that it's not... Check out the site of the Fallen Angels FreeflY Organisation: http://www.padliangeli.org Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #18 March 14, 2006 Slightly off center to the left... but not nearly as much as a sidemount.www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ltdiver 3 #19 March 14, 2006 QuoteSlightly off center to the left... but not nearly as much as a sidemount. You get a decent lens on that XT and it'll come right back to center, then. ltdiver Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are footprints on the moon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #20 March 14, 2006 QuoteJust reverse the still camera mount so that the mounting plate is to the outside and the top of the still camera is pointed to the middle. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I tried that before and I'm pretty sure there's not enough space to do it. All you need is another still mount with a longer bottom section. Did you make the one thats on there now? If not, you should have, and with a hacksaw and a vice you can make one that will allow you to scoot the video cam over a bit as well to center up the weight. For that matter, if you want to eliminate the width of the quick release, why not figure out a way to flush mount or even recess it into the still cam mount to narrow the thing up? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #21 March 14, 2006 Good point. I actually may redo the whole setup sometime soon anyway, try to put the sharkfin on the outside with top of camera facing center... will probably have to get rid of box on DVcam to make this fit. Will try to keep it all balanced when I do. And yes I'm gonna get a better lens once I can make up my mind on one. www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #22 March 14, 2006 QuoteAll you need is another still mount with a longer bottom section. Did you make the one thats on there now? If not, you should have, and with a hacksaw and a vice you can make one that will allow you to scoot the video cam over a bit as well to center up the weight. Nope, I guess I'm an idiot for paying $50 for the Bonehead sharkfin. Will look into making my own if I can't get this one to fit on the new setup. QuoteFor that matter, if you want to eliminate the width of the quick release, why not figure out a way to flush mount or even recess it into the still cam mount to narrow the thing up? The only reason I used the QRS is because with the Dbox outside the sharkfin, there is not room for a standard 1/4" screw head (it wouldn't be accessible, at least). If I swap the camera sides and have sharkfin outside, I can get rid of the QRS and use a standard screw.www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #23 March 14, 2006 QuoteIf I swap the camera sides and have sharkfin outside, I can get rid of the QRS and use a standard screw. Make sure it's not a thumbscrew. That would be a super snag hazzard on the outside. Do what ever you can to snug the cam down until it's touching the top of the helmet too. Keeping the weight in close will reduce the leverage it has on your neck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The111 0 #24 March 14, 2006 QuoteMake sure it's not a thumbscrew. That would be a super snag hazzard on the outside. Yeh, I was thinking about that. My other concern is that the top surface of an OI is "trapezoidal", it tapers in at the front. If I slide the fin to the outside it will be hanging over the front "corner" of the trapezoid quite a bit... if that makes any sense. My D-box is already doing that but it doesn't look as bad for some reason.www.WingsuitPhotos.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
davelepka 4 #25 March 14, 2006 If you're not too worried about the looks, you can fashion a wedge out of wood or foam that will conform to the overhang and create a 'ramp' down the side of the helmet (maybe an inch or so). Then you can completely cover the wedge with gaffers tape. You could also make a sharkfin thats one flat-ish piece of aluminum that mounts to the side of the helmet, a couple inches below the flat top, and then bends out ward to form the vertical portion of the sharkfin. Does that make sense? There's really no reason is has to be a right angle bend mounted to a horizontal surface. what you really need is a vertical mounting surface, so you can just mount it to the side, and elimitate a snag hazzard. Keep in mind to keep the size of the sharkfin to a minnimum. Any corners hanging out on the top are also snag hazzards, and don't really need to be there any way. It only needs to be tall enough to mount the quick release. The flip side is that then maybe your camera is open to riser strikes or what ever. Take a look at the situation, and find the best balance between using the least amount of material, and protecting your camera. Building camera helmets and mounts is easy. Making it look good is the tricky part. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
