Chris-Ottawa 0 #301 April 28, 2009 Hey, Just finished my camera helmet and I think it is pretty clean. The only thing I have left to do is make some neoprene condoms for the cameras. Setup: -Bonehead Optik w/ cutaway -Canon Rebel Xs (Stock Lens) w/ bite switch -Sony CX100 w/ Cookie .3 Lens (SD) -Hypeye D Pro -Custom L bracket made by BillVon (Thanks a bunch) -Ring Sight Later!"When once you have tasted flight..." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bdazel 0 #302 April 29, 2009 Watch that battery on the Sony. Seems it could be lost with a good riser slap or other impact. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris-Ottawa 0 #303 April 29, 2009 Thanks, I hadn't thought of that, but it'll be in a neoprene condom very shortly."When once you have tasted flight..." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kusi 0 #304 April 29, 2009 How did you mount your hypeye on your helmet? adhesion? adhesive tape (double-sided)? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vdschoor 0 #305 April 29, 2009 It's been a while, but here's another version of my setup. This time setup for shooting film. Also showing some neck protection for the "just in case" scenario. Thanks to Fozz for taking the shots. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jadera 0 #306 May 26, 2009 Finished my camera setup, and made few jumps with it (10 jumps).. feels great!!!! setup: 1. BARK helmet 2. Cam eye 3. pro track 4. Cookie black box 5. Sony HC-40 camera Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VTmotoMike08 0 #307 August 27, 2009 Here's my newly completed setup, I would really like to get some feedback. BH Optik Illusion PC 109 Rebel XT with an RRS Clamp on top, which I love. The blow switch mounted on top took quite a bit of work to wire like that but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Edit: Currently saving for a CX100 with a FTP so I can join this century of camera flyers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pilotdave 0 #308 August 28, 2009 QuoteI would really like to get some feedback. If you've been here for a couple days, I'm sure you can anticipate the feedback you're going to get about your ringsight, its hardware, and mounting location. Looks like it's begging to snag a line and not break off. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lurch 0 #309 August 28, 2009 Current project: May not be done for this weekend, but definitely by next. Specs: Bonehead Havok CX100, remote-mounted 3.9 AH battery, (439 minutes battery life) cheap .5 lens. Mount: lexan-cored ceramic, carbon fiber, silicone RTV, maybe some aluminum. The battery mount is half done. Still got to make inner and outer hull plates to cover the battery and protect my ear if the battery blows. Dunno if I'm going to bother with a ringsight since it ain't for pro work. Been a fun project so far. -BLive and learn... or die, and teach by example. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 4 #310 August 28, 2009 in terms of fashion, that matches the Franken-wing wonderfully. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lurch 0 #311 August 31, 2009 Live and learn... or die, and teach by example. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lurch 0 #312 August 31, 2009 ooo, tough crowd. Heres the finished product. One of the more challenging geometry hacks I've done. Working out shapes and locations so its low-profile, puts no structural load on the battery and maintains good solid electrical connection under the beating this thing is intended to tolerate was tricky as hell. Inner and outer hull plates are tinted lexan. I cut down the ceramic so its only present in concealed places where I wanted hard rigidity to transfer sideloads to the helmets surfaces and sealed much of it under RTV silicone. The green stuff is velcro, used for both padding/rub surfaces and camera wrapping. If I get sick of the velcro camera wrap I might make it a hard shell out of the same lexan later, but for now I like it for elegance and simplicity, plus it keeps the camera shell from getting all beat up and scratched. Same as last camera, I integrated the camera strap into the design rather than cutting it off. Instead of being in the way, it covers the mount details and acts as secondary retainer in the unlikely event of failure of the mount. The remote battery mount was carved out of parts from an old camera so it kept the ability to swap out and upgrade...tiny button inside releases battery, buttons at such an angle that theres no way in hell the battery gets released accidentally. I'm going to replace the two bolts on the back carbon fiber piece with rounded button head capscrews because repeated riserslaps will start to chew up the riser with time. I gutted an old spare battery from my previous camera setup, hacked the case so it fits the new camera and made a braided self-stowing cable for the resulting adapter so theres no loose loops of wire or anything. No plugs to come loose, should be incredibly riserslap-resistant, and now I get the closest thing to unlimited battery life while still keeping the camera itself as small as possible. I wanted to recess the camera further into the side of the helmet and still might over this winter, but it'll be VERY involved and require as much or more radical redesigning of the geometry as the battery mount did. The weight and balance worked out VERY well. I jumped it yesterday and the fact that theres a camera present at all is almost unnoticeable. Its far more low-profile than the old crude lexan mount I had with an HC-42, which stuck out a good half inch from the side. You didn't think those first pics were the whole thing, did you Spot? Although I must admit, it still somehow came out looking like it was specifically designed to fit a certain industrial-brutality aesthetic. It ain't a broadcast-grade helmet, but it was intended for rough-and-tumble daily-driver combat wingsuiting, and I think it'll serve. Whaddya think...ugly enough, or needs some diamond plate? -BLive and learn... or die, and teach by example. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zymurdoo 0 #313 December 5, 2009 So after looking at every post in this thread I am almost finished with my semi custom camera helmet. I started with a Bonehead Mindwarp that had been modified with a side mount D-Box and a small custom top plate. After jumping the video cam in both the top and side mount positions, I decided I wanted both vid and still on top but didn't have the real estate to maki it happen. Thanks to my good friend Chris, we stripped her down and started over. Here are a few pics from along the way... Sorry about some of the pic sizes. I was just over and had to compress them quickly so they may be a bit small. See the complete project at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=38518&id=1528170363&saved#/album.php?aid=38518&id=1528170363Blue Skies, Soft Docks and Happy Landings! CWR #23 (It's called CRW, add an e if you like, but I ain't calling it CFS. FU FAI!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DSE 4 #314 December 5, 2009 Looks great. Since it's still a chin cup helmet after all those mods, does it stay in one place? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zymurdoo 0 #315 December 5, 2009 Sorry for the bad clicky - http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=38518&id=1528170363&l=5ecd20defcDSE- I did the oven bake of the helmet prior to modifying and have some extra padding too boot. The helmet fits pretty tight and I ratchet the chin-cup TIGHT. Total weight of the system is 6.6 lbs and it is centered over the spinal column. It feels pretty stable on the head (as stable as the video cam alone was). I have yet to make the maiden voyage so I will have to get back to you on how she flies. This helmet project was intended to see if I wanted to tackle a CCM of my own. At this point I am not sure it is worth the effort. I was able to keep the costs down with some creative engineering and utilizing a great technical assistance from a friend. Will hopefully get in the air sometime early next week since I am on shift till Monday A.M. Blue Skies, Soft Docks and Happy Landings! CWR #23 (It's called CRW, add an e if you like, but I ain't calling it CFS. FU FAI!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skyjumpenfool 2 #316 December 5, 2009 Here you go... Bonehead Mindwarp Sony TRV-18 Cannon G-10, Nikon D-40, or Nikon 2020 35mm Finley ring sight w/ custom mount. Skytronic FX audible Cam Eye II The rest is custom built, carbon fiber and aluminum mounts. The still camera just slides in and out when the Video Camera is removed by undoing one Velcro strap. Shown with G-10, but, I also use a Nikon D-40 or a Nikon 2020 35mm. It takes me about 15 seconds to swap out cameras. I often shoot just video and it is designed to do that as well. When I do, there is very little sign of any still camera mounts, just a small slot in the Carbon Fiber video cover. My goal was to make it snag proof. I've decided there is no such animal. But, like you guys all know, we keep on trying. I love the G-10 and I'm currently designing a new setup with it, and one of those small new video cams. My goal is to cut the weight and size by at least 1/3.Birdshit & Fools Productions "Son, only two things fall from the sky." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronaldo 0 #317 December 6, 2009 Really nice job Rick! There is nothing like the feeling of building your own toys. Here is the link for the step by step process of my current camera helmet. I believe I never posted it in this thread http://cid-b5905376ce73cf21.skydrive.live.com/play.aspx/Capacete%20freefly%20%5E5Free%20Fly%20camera%20helmet%5E6?ref=1 BTW, there is a new Project coming soon for a CX100, almost entirely from scratch! I wish I had more space to work at home Engineering Law #5: The most vital dimension on any plan drawing stands the most chance of being omitted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zymurdoo 0 #318 December 7, 2009 Nice work! I'm not sure where I found the link but I did see your slide show before. It was one of the projects that inspired me to try my own.Blue Skies, Soft Docks and Happy Landings! CWR #23 (It's called CRW, add an e if you like, but I ain't calling it CFS. FU FAI!) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sdkd1995 0 #319 December 30, 2009 QuoteJust got it assembled... a few mods have been made since the pictures (Tape to cover snag points, etc....) http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/terminalvelocity120/IMG_9301.jpg http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/terminalvelocity120/IMG_9308.jpg http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/terminalvelocity120/IMG_9299.jpg What brand of helmet is this? I saw one at CouchFreaks this year for the first time and thought it looked cool then, too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
west33freefall 0 #320 March 20, 2010 My Rawa Vision with a HC38 and a Canon Rebel XT tongue switch cameye and ring sight. Nothing has gafers tape or zip ties yet. Just built it. Any Thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stratostar 5 #321 March 20, 2010 It's a bonehead. don't remember the model name.you can't pay for kids schoolin' with love of skydiving! ~ Airtwardo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Superfletch 1 #322 March 20, 2010 QuoteWhat brand of helmet is this? I saw one at CouchFreaks this year for the first time and thought it looked cool then, too. Sonny... it's a Bonehead Zeus... http://www.boneheadcomposites.com/zeus.htm Gary "Superfletch" Fletcher D-26145; USPA Coach, IAD/I, AFF/I Videographer/Photographer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PharmerPhil 0 #323 March 23, 2011 I originally put together my SkySystems' Vapor Wes Pro helmet system two years ago. Info on the original build can be found here. This winter I re-did a few things for the new season. This was primarily to add the CX150 as we are going to all file based, NLE this year (the CX150 replaces an HC-5). The original helmet was designed with future expansion in mind without having to re-do the basic helmet, so primarily this just involved building new quick-release plates. But I used the opportunity to add some additional electronics too. Shortly after my original post, I also added a nylon back-up strap over the entire top assembly that can be seen in these pics. This is insurance against lost gear, and keeps the LCD screen closed on the video cameras. CX150 Building a plate specifically for the CX150 allowed me to move the DSLR inboard a full 3/4-inch (19mm). Now the two cameras are almost completely within the top-plate. I was torn between the CX150 and the CX100 only because of the bottom-mounted card slot. However, when I made my purchase, I anticipated doing my own editing, and planned on just using the USB connector to get files off of the camera. I did machine an opening in the bottom of the plate for card access though, so while I have to take the camera off of the helmet to access the card slot, I don't have to unscrew the camera from the QR plate (see "Brackets" photo). Likewise, the DSLR plate has an opening so I can replace the battery without unscrewing it from its QR plate. Using the CX also required the addition of a Hypeye D Pro, so this gave me an excuse to do a little re-wiring. Wiring I added the Hypeye D Pro and the Hypeye D Pro Expansion kit, so I could add a remote, flush-mounted button in just the right location for me (right front). I added an identical push-button on the other side (left front) and wired it in parallel with my blow switch for triggering my SLR. The way I hold my helmet for landing shots is with my left hand grabbing the face/eye opening of the helmet, and my right hand holding the video camera so I can ride the zoom lever. I found I couldn't grip the helmet firmly doing this and have a hand near the DSLR shutter, so this extra button is just the trick. I kept the Hypeye mini installed in case I need to put my HC-5 back into service as a second cam if I get fortunate enough to do some serious competition video again. Lights The smaller CX camera allowed me to build a new, more elegant flash bracket. This bracket also keeps the flash, and the weight of the batteries a little lower on the helmet. All I have to do is connect the extension cable to the hot shoe on the DSLR, and two thumbscrews to attach the flash and bracket. Honestly, one common need for a flash for me is when we are cramming to get all the tandems up before, and sometimes just a little after sunset. In these cases, I am typically turning every load, and don't have time to mess with anything complicated, so this quick attachment is important. Although the flash is also nice for high noon, solid overcast, and/or for dark-skinned tandem students. Additionally, I made a simple bracket for an LED light for possible video use. When I originally put the helmet together, I had an extra inch of top-plate in front that I could have cut off. But I looked at that and thought someday I might want to hang something off of it, so I drilled a series of holes in the top-plate and it only takes two thumbscrews to quickly attach the light. It will probably be under-powered for anything except very close up shots, but it is very light weight, and I'll be psyched to try it out. Impressions The original helmet set-up has served me extremely well for the past two seasons. It is compact, the weight is very well balanced, and it is easy to take cameras on and off when I need to. (Up until this year, we shot film for tandems, but I would swap out the film SLR for my DSLR for special students, or anything non-tandem.) I haven't jumped this new set-up yet, but I am obviously happy with the reduced weight of the basic two-camera set-up, and the fact that everything moved a little inboard. The flash bracket is lighter as well, and while the whole full-tilt boogie set-up is a little on the weighty side, it is as light and compact as I can imagine using all of these toys. I am a little disappointed in how narrow the stock lens on the CX150 is. The field of view on my HC-5 with a Raynox HD-5050Pro lens was wider than the CX150 with a Raynox HD-3035Pro lens. And I don't want to give up at least partial zoom capabilities. Plus I am going to have to get used to doing without a viewfinder. Not only are they easier to see in sunlight, but pushing the helmet against my head added stability to the hand-held shots when I was zoomed in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DesertDevil 0 #324 March 25, 2011 Hi Everyone, I'm trying to upgrade. I wonder what people think about the BoneHead Flat Top Pro and the Flat Top Narrow. Is one noticeably heavier than the other? Thanks Faris Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
base729 0 #325 May 10, 2011 Here's my current work in progress. Waiting for a 15mm drill to finish mounting the controller. Wes Vapor Pro (cutaway mod) Sony CX150 (Schumacher Box, Century .5 lens) Pentax K7 (10-17mm fisheye) (2) Gopros in 3D Housing Hypeye Pro A few questions: 1. On WVP, the forehead padding is all glued in, not velcroed. How have you routed your indicator for the hypeye? Pull it apart, cut, drill? 2. I was going to use the option to push the hypeye controller through a 15mm hole. I have a plan to be able to support it from the bottom so that it can't accidentally be pushed back through. That necessary? 3. Basically same question as #1, except for the tongue switch. All the padding around the mouth is glued in and no easy path to run the tongue switch. 4. Waiting on some hardware to replace what's there to make it cleaner (BHCS vs SHCS) and waiting to get it all done before taking the last bit off of the ringsight. 5. Not sure if I'm going to shoot 3D, or just have it be a backup photo/video. Just getting into video so not sure how the conversation goes with a tandem when there is an equipment problem and there is no photo/video to give them (at least with this setup, there would be 'something') Any feedback would be appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites