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tkhayes

Small digital camera with remote shutter release?

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:)
..yes.... I have been using a Sony dcs-V1 for about 18 months.... It is 5 megapixels..... a wide angle lens is available for it which works well for exit shots, and tandem close ups.....The V1 has now been superceded by the dcs W1..... an accessory jack allows for the use of a wired, handheld pendant
the pendant lets me turn the camera on or off, it has a glowing amber light which TELLS me at a glance IF the camera is on... It lets me zoom the lens. wide angle to tele,. and it lets me fire the shutter..... The camera is NOT a 3 shots per second sort of tool... It does need a couple of seconds to recover,,, ( there is a "multi burst" option which will bang out a series of images...)... So I fire maybe 4 or 5 shots per skydive...The images are sharp and clear,, and print very well
even as 8 by 10's...
I took it upon myself to splice a plastic 'molex' connector into the 3 conductor wire.. ( the wire is approx 60 inches in length) the molex is located so that One end hangs 5 or 6 inches below my neckline as it comes from my BatRack,,, and the end coming from my jumpsuit has maybe a foot of slack in it... I don the helmet,, mate up the connectors, tuck it away inside my jumpsuit,,, and I'm good to go..
The pendant has a spring loaded clip which I secure to the "tubestow" of my altimaster.. This way.. I can open my left hand completely,, and the pendant stays put... if I need it.. i simple close my hand around it and my thumb finds the shutter release button... It's for sure Not a digi rebel or a 20 D... but it takes perfectly fine shots,,, and is killer in the plane, on the ground,, and in terms of it's capabilities in post production "editing".. here are a few shots,,,(shrunk down from 2 MB to under 60 kb...) the first jpeg is actually the very first photo I took, while in freefall... I was pleased with it.. the last shot happened to capture the very instant that the
3 ring on the drogue bridle,,,lets go.. to allow for main deployment... The size of the camera itself can be noted on the shot of my helmet...
wishing the best to you and to ALL in FLA...
jimmy from rochester.......:)

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Jimmy,

Thank-you very much for the information and photos. Do you have a photo of the "molex" connector?
--
Murray

"No tyranny is so irksome as petty tyranny: the officious demands of policemen, government clerks, and electromechanical gadgets." - Edward Abbey

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:)male and female .... crimp connections for the wires,,,,(I soldered them as well ) onto the pins,, then the pins push into the plastic body, til they 'click' into place... they can accomodate up to 8 conductors,,, Radio Shack etc.... inexpensive,,, pretty reliable....picture attached.....

I checked with a retail suppier of the DSC-W 1 [:/]>:( to find that the "newer" W1 doesn't HAVE the accessory port....:(..for the remote.... and so May Not be a good suggestion....
If the V1 is still available near you,,, it's the better choice of the two..( should be between 4 and 500 $$$ retail ) But keep looking for others,,, since there are so many maufacturers, introducing "new and better" things,, everyday...
pictures attached to show the camera the jack, the wide angle lens, the pendant,, and a Shot which I took while seated in the co pilot seat.... with the w. a. lens.....:)

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Thanks Jimmy,

Would the connector come apart if you had to jettison the helmet?



good question.. and yes. that's the hope...
don't want a tether...
yet in 10 years of doing video I've never faced a situation like that..
More so,,,, the break in the wire,, allows for ease of donning and removing the helmet. The pendant and its lead,,, stay in the jumpsuit sleeve...
After a while though,, the molex connect can get a bit sloppy and the damn thing can seperate during a jump >:(.........[:/] so keep an eye on it...
If you consider this system,,, be sure not to short yourself the distance you need from the helmet end of the wire,,to get from your jawline to a place comfortably inside the front of your jumpsuit... ( you only get to cut the wire,,, Once!!!!:ph34r::):)

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Thanks Jimmy,

Would the connector come apart if you had to jettison the helmet?



good question.. and yes. that's the hope...
don't want a tether...
yet in 10 years of doing video I've never faced a situation like that..
More so,,,, the break in the wire,, allows for ease of donning and removing the helmet. The pendant and its lead,,, stay in the jumpsuit sleeve...
After a while though,, the molex connect can get a bit sloppy and the damn thing can seperate during a jump >:(.........[:/] so keep an eye on it...
If you consider this system,,, be sure not to short yourself the distance you need from the helmet end of the wire,,to get from your jawline to a place comfortably inside the front of your jumpsuit... ( you only get to cut the wire,,, Once!!!!:ph34r::):)


Measure twice - cut once! ;)

I used some male/female connectors years ago to create a break in my 35 mm still camera cable release. I'm sure they would have come apart in the event of a jettison situation. I like the connector you are using because it is one connector...I had one for each wire.

Thanks for all the photos and info. As much as I would like to buy a Digital Rebel I can't justify the cost....this looks like it produces excellent results for a lot less moolah and is something I will look into.

Cheers,
--
Murray

"No tyranny is so irksome as petty tyranny: the officious demands of policemen, government clerks, and electromechanical gadgets." - Edward Abbey

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I'm looking for a digital photo camera too...

I have seen several wired remote, non-SLR cameras on www.dpreview.com:

Not-so-wide-angle (<=38mm)

Sony DSC-V1 - the drawback is the long storage time between each shot

Some cameras of the Nikon Coolpix series with USB based wired remote control e.g. 990, 4500, and more. The DigiSnap control might be a very useful accessory for these cameras.

Some Casio cameras e.g. QV 8000SX and QV 4000 - the wired remote control might be hard to get.

Wide-angle (<=28mm)

Minoltas Dimage 7 series - but these are not compact.

Panasonic DMC-LC1 - very nice, but rather expensive and approx. 750 g!

Leica Digilux 2 - even more expensive

Some of Nikon Coolpix series e.g. 5000 and 5400 - either with remote control from Nikon or a DigiSnap controller

Sonys cameras with ACC-connector e.g. DSC-F828 and F717 - far too big for me

Do you know others?

Another idea

Some of the IR-remote cameras have rather cheap IR remote controls. One could attach a modified IR-controller on the camera body and shorten the IR-controllers shutter key with a wire/push button system...

Stefan

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hmm, i as looking also for such a camera, but my biggist concern is the possibility of using manual focus, AND the fact that the camera has no automatic shutdown period (can be set to 0). This beacuse I want to use it with CRW, and automatic focus will slow things down dramatically, so
"ah, nice formation, wait: push the remote button----wait----wait----click (ah boy, they broke up already)"

so the 1-million dollar question is: does this sony camera has manual focus and a configurable shutdown period?

caren
Caren

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Hi Caren

New processor technologies reduce shutter release lags now. There is a big improvement in digital camera technology.

But you should check the time between each shot, too. Some cameras spend quite a long time to store a picture.

The Sony DSC-V3 has manual focus in 13 steps. I think this is from some near distance to infinity (what you need for CF).
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Sony/sony_dscv3.asp

The auto power-off function (90s/3min) of the previous model DSC-V1 is explained in the english manual on page 14.
http://www.sonydigital-link.com/DIME/manuals/manuals.asp?l=de&sc=&m=DSC-V1

I think, you can disable this function when you put a plug in the A/V Out (MONO) jack - easy! I hope the DSC-V3 manual and more reviews/tests/sample images will be online soon.

Stefan

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Unfortunately there's no small point and shoot digital camera on the market with any kind of conection for external shutter release.
I can modify certain models, and so far they're working great.
The two succesfull models are the Kodak V570 and the Kodak V705. These two have a 23mm wide lens too!!! (talking about 35mm equiv.)
Unfortunately thes models are discontinued, but they're still availble on-line here and there.
I saw a few newer models from different manufactures with 28mm lenses. I never tried to take them apart, but they could still work.
If anyone is interested about the Kodak ones please send me a PM.
-Laszlo-
www.laszloimage.com

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Actually Ricoh make a point and shoot with a remote shutter release http://www.ricoh.com/r_dc/caplio/gx100/ http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews_ricoh_caplio_gx100.php

The Caplio GX100. It also has a 24mm wide angle lens which can be widened to 19mm with an adapter.

The remote shutter is attached through the usb so you can't use it with the attachable view finder.

Is this the future?

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Sadly I have tested the GX100 and the results weren't great. It has a nice wide angle lens and continuous shoot mode that will shoot 10-15 pictures very rapidly (2-3 fps) but after about 15 shots the camera lags for ages as it buffers the images.

I also had a look at the canon G9. That shot 12m pretty quickly at about 1-2 fps with no noticable buffer. I took about 50-60 pics on a continuous burst. Only problem was no remote release.

Ricoh is supposed to be bringing out 2 new cameras soon with improved buffers which will hopefully improve things. In the interim i was shown this devise http://www.jacobsdigital.co.uk/index.php?target=products&product_id=70256 Which is essentially a velcro strap that enables you to fit an old style cable release to any compact camera.

Looked like a fairly low tech and simple solution.

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Hi Dynamite

I have had my eyes on the GX100 for a some time now. What did you use for the shutter? I've read previously that the shutter was controled via the USB port? Do you have some sort of bite(tongue, blow..)-switch that fits in this port? A converter maybe? Also, the pictures you took, were they OK? Do you have one that you could show us?

Thanks!!
dlepot

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Well, contrary to my previous thread, I went ahead and bought the GX100. I solved the buffer problem by using a fast card and using the manual functions. In fact i'm not sure the problem even existed - I think the salesman in the camera shop was trying to sell me another camera! It will happily take just over a frame per second and will shoot on continuous mode until the battery runs out (200-300 frames) or the card fills up.

The image quality is good at lower ISOs (80 and 100) but above 200 it starts to get quite grainy. Therefore, it's not great in low light. However the DoF is still quite large when you increase the aperture size.

The beauty of this camera is that you can set the ISO, shutter speed and aperture in full manual mode or shoot in aperture or shutter priority. You can fix the focal point too.

This camera is not as good as your DSLR (quality or speed) but then it only ways 250grms, is much, much smaller and you have less chance of getting the sensor dirty.

I have not jumped this camera yet as i am waiting for the cable releases. As soon as i have them, i will be modifying them to add a tongue switch. In theory i see no reason why you couldn't just use a usb extension cable and operate the cable release by hand.

As soon as the cable release arrives and is modified, i'll jump the camera and post the results. If i have the chance i'll jump the camera this weekend and operate it the old fashioned way just as a test.

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I also use the Kodak, mounted on my FF2. But compared to Laszlo's modification, I guess my way is a little bit more "subtle", but can only be used on my helmet. The whole project took me almost 5 months, but there's not much jumping during winter anyway, around here...
Check out the pics.
Some details:
- manual (tongue) and automatic (pic every 3 seconds) modes, changeable during freefall
- electronic circuit powered by camera battery (short-circuit protected, of course...)
- 3-color LED indication: yellow for automatic on, red lights up 1 second before release, blue at shutter release
- built in 3mW laser pointer, indicates center-of-view, also powered by camera battery
- gold plated contacts
- low profile, only 3 mm higher than the helmet itself
- lightweight, camera and complete bracket adds less than 350 grams to the helmet

Sure, it doesn't even get close to DSLR-quality, but for a fraction of the price, weight and size, it's nice to have a still cam with you on every jump...

More pictures on my gallery
andy.jairo.ch

No.1 reason NOT to be an astronaut: ...You can't drink beer at zero gravity...

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The whole project took me almost 5 months,... ...but for a fraction of the price...it's nice to have a still cam with you on every jump...



How much are 5 months of your time worth??? If you are going to spend that much of your life on a project like this, why do it for a sub-standard camera?

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WOW!
Man you built another camera around the camera.
It's awesome. You're definitelly know what you're doing....
But I have a similar qustion as Phil, 5 months?
How much would it cost to sell it to others?
Anyway, no doubt it is a marvelous achivment to build something like that at home.
-Laszlo-

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