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AndyMan

Planning setup...

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A few questions.

I've got a FTP on the way.

I'm also contemplating buying my first SLR. I'll either get a 300D, a el-cheapo Rebel, or both. The tandem consession at my DZ is not setup for digital stills.

Will the 300D zoom lens that comes in the package work with a standard rebel? (buying the 300d means I won't have to buy a wide angle for the analog camera)

Is anybody shooting the 300D with the standard lens? If I buy both cameras I won't be able to afford another lens.

Can I mount my PC120 behind either Rebel, so that the PC120 can "see" over the Rebel? I'd like to try to mount both towards the center of the FTP to reduce riser-strikes.

How can I topmount my PC120? The tape spits out the bottom, so it'll need to come off quickly. I was thinking about a stroboframe. Will I be able to open the tape compartment with a stroboframe shoe attached?

_Am
__

You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead.

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>Will the 300D zoom lens that comes in the package work with a standard rebel?

No, the 300D uses the new Canon lens series and it will not work on the older frames.

>Can I mount my PC120 behind either Rebel, so that the PC120 can "see" over the Rebel? I'd like to try to mount both towards the center of the FTP to reduce riser-strikes.

Only if you mount the PC120 on a riser thats about 2-3 inches tall. I've got a PC110 and was looking at the same thing and said screw it and I'm just front mounting the stills. That and I'm L bracketing the Stills to be in Portrat next to the video on some other jumps. Turtlespeed just posted pics similar to what I'm doing.

>How can I topmount my PC120? The tape spits out the bottom, so it'll need to come off quickly. I was thinking about a stroboframe.

I Dboxed mine. Thumb screw threw the helmet and the buckle on the Dbox and I'm good to go. Can't get any simplier then that I think.

Check the remote plugs, you might need to have two seperate ones because the new 300d takes different plugs then some of the older rebels.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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No, the 300D uses the new Canon lens series and it will not work on the older frames.



What is it about the lens that different? I thought all EF lenses fit all EOS cameras?

What about current (read: new) Rebel frames?

_Am
__

You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead.

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Can I mount my PC120 behind either Rebel, so that the PC120 can "see" over the Rebel? I'd like to try to mount both towards the center of the FTP to reduce riser-strikes.



I am just about to reconfigure mine this way. Too much strain on my neck (must be getting old!!!:S)

My brother is making a light weight aluminium box to screw my Velbon quick release plate on. It is extra height, but only a little bit more than portrait mounting my 10D. I prefer to have the camera in landscape.

A boatbuilder friend , specialising in GRP, is then going to custom make a protective cover for the whole lot.

I'll let you know what the outcome is............

Bryn
Journey not destination.....

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The lens that comes with the 300D (18-55) is an EF-S lens not an EF lens ... designed specifically for the 300D. The EF-S will not fit any other EOS body. The 300D however will accept EF lenses.

BUT ... you wont be saving money by trying to interchange lenses between (film) EOS and 300D as the 300D has a 1.6 magnification factor. This means if you have a 24mm EF lens set up on your EOS, and you put it on the 300D, you will end up with something like 38mm. To get the same FoV on the 300D you need a 15mm lens (ie. 15*1.6=24). Conversely, if you put the 15mm on the EOS then you will need to be flying up thier nostril to get the money shot!

You can buy the 300D without the EF-S lens (about $100 cheaper); then you'd need a lens for that and a lens for the EOS - say a 15mm and a 24mm to get the same FoV and keep them interchangable.

:)

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The lens that comes with the 300D (18-55) is an EF-S lens not an EF lens ... designed specifically for the 300D. The EF-S will not fit any other EOS body. The 300D however will accept EF lenses.



Thanks.

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BUT ... you wont be saving money by trying to interchange lenses between (film) EOS and 300D as the 300D has a 1.6 magnification factor. This means if you have a 24mm EF lens set up on your EOS, and you put it on the 300D, you will end up with something like 38mm. To get the same FoV on the 300D you need a 15mm lens (ie. 15*1.6=24). Conversely, if you put the 15mm on the EOS then you will need to be flying up thier nostril to get the money shot!



I was hoping to use the 18-35 on the film rebel. I see that won't work, but it would have meant not having to buy a 20mm for the analog rebel - I could've used the 18-35mm.

_Am
__

You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead.

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I have a 120 mounted on the top of my FTP. The 120 fits so tight in the dbox that there is no need for a thumbscrew in the bottom. As said before you will have to raise it some to put a still camera in front of it. It might be tall enough on the top of some quick releases to clear the camera but you will still most likely see the lens of the still camera once you have a wide angle lens on the 120.

William

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I top mounted both my 10D and PC-1. Somebody posted pics here of his PC style video mounted in back of his SLR. I thought that would be a good setup but when I tried it, I found the same thing that PhreeZone said. It needed a 2+ inch riser to keep the still camera out of view of the video.

I experimented a bit and found that the PC-video camera in front of the 10D worked. I thought for sure the video camera would be in the view of the still camera but it is not. Part of the reason this works is because of the 1.6 Field of View of the DSLR's. The outside perimeter of the lens is not used or 'viewed' through by the sensor.

I liked this setup because the CamEye button is mounted on top and seems to be a bit protected and I can use my right hand to activate it and its easy to find and my hand doesn't pass in front of any lenses.

The 'L' bracket I made for the still camera gives a little bit of protection to the camera. It is attached to the top of the camera and will not allow the camera to twist. And, it offers a little bit of protection to the remote cord where it is attached to the camera.

Edited to add:
I forgot to talk about pic 0465. When I mounted the cameras, I also mounted the laser site. I took this piece of paper and taped it to the wall. The still camera, video, laser, and eyepiece, are all mounted in parallel. The two circles line up exactly with the two cameras. The red dot lines up with the laser and the black dot lines up with the eyepiece. All four are centered with their respective target whether the helmet is inches away or a hundred yards away. This way I know if I've got the right side of his jaw in the center of the site, his forehead will be in the center of the frame no matter how close or far away I am. The laser makes it very easy to check the alignment of the site by my self.

Here are a few pics.

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This winter I got the flash mounted onto the helmet. On the back is a Strobo Frame plate. The flash is thumb screwed to a bracket that mounts to this. Then I tie the flash to the still camera 'L' bracket with a strap and quick clip. The strap help keep the flash remote cord corralled.

The flash setup is all new and I haven't jumped it yet.

Here are a few more pics showing the flash setup...

-mh.

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here are some photos i had of my last setup with the still behiend the video on a riser....block of wood.....i have since changed that to front mounting the still. Its easier on your neck with all the weight as center as possible....but think of the consiquences.


Forgot to add the clicky
"Professor of Pimpology"~~~Bolas

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I got a PM from a guy who noticed that I had checklists taped to the back of the 'L' bracket of my camera helmet. He asked me to post them so here they are. I had to re-type them and so there are a few changes here that I intend to make to the original.

BEFORE LEAVING HANGER Part 1
1. Still Camera, ISO 200
A. Clean Lens
B. Check Battery
C. Flash Card
D. Bolt & Strap

2. Video Camera
A. Check Battery, & Spare
B. Set Infinity Focus
C. Check Zoom
D. Clean Lens
E. Bolt & Strap

3. Helmet
A. Top Pad

4.Remote Switch, ready

BEFORE LEAVING HANGER Part 2
1.Weights
2.Suit w/ Switch Routed
3.Goggles/spare
4.Lens clean cloth
5.Rig
6.Altimeter Hand/Chest
7.Chest Strap
8.Wings Attached
9.Spare Batteries

BEFORE LEAVING PLANE
1.Camera MF, tv 400, ISO 200
2.Plug in remote
3.Still Turned On
4.Test switch
5.Check Handles / chest strap
6.Swoop Cords
7.Goggles at hand
8.Get Pin Check
9.Helmet on
10.Goggles on
11.Video on / Test CamEye

AFTER LEAVING AIRPLANE
1.Take good pictures
2.Be Safe

(Edited to add: 'Get Pin Check')

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This is a pretty good checklist. I run through all of this several times before and in the plane. We should throw this at people who want to start with video just to give them some idea as to how many variables need to be thought of. And this is only prior to exit. Lots more needs to be done from air to ground yet.

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