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hoym

Here's one that I took on Sunday.

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I just thought the shot was interesting because you don't often see a freeflyer face to face (kind-of) with a tandem passenger.

I never really gave any thought to the de-arch of the student in this shot because I got to see the entire sequence of photos and the video. They are just at the end of a coordinated front loop exit and both instructor and student come out of the front loop and both go into an arch.

Some students manage this type of exit better than others but most do pretty good with the coaching that we give them.


Since you both noticed that right away, I've posted the entire exit series.


Edited to add: I don't know why the pictures are not listed in the order that I uploaded the attachment. Follow the number of the image to see them in order.

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Hoym, I'm digging the pictures. That's a Porter?

Your'e proximate the whole time, and that's what matters. The tandem master looks like he keeps the student's legs fetal as a matter of course. That's different than my DZ, but if it works, whatever!

Nice shots. Bring them in!

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Yes deuce, that's a pilatus porter.The same plane that's used for the mondial in Gap france.Only they have better colorsceme's as you can see on these phot's
If people from Poland are called Poles, why aren't people from Holland called Holes???
My logbook

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As far as I know, Cliff (the tandem instructor in these pics) and I are the only TI's at our DZ who actually coach the passengers to stay fetal during the front loop. Most TI's that I've observed don't do this. I've taught this technique recently to some new TI's that were working on their phase II.

The way I do it... I'll usually tell the passenger that we are going to do one front loop. "Ready, set go", Front loop then at the top/end of the loop, yell "Arch" in their ear, and two taps on their shoulders to signal to them to come out of the front flip position and go into the arch. They have been coached to expect this from me and I've coached them on how I want them to stay fetal and then respond with a good arch when I give them the signal.

If they want want more than one front flip, I'll yell a count at the top of each rotation ("One"... "Two"... "Three"... "Arch") and then two taps on their shoulder to come out of the front flip and into an arch.

It really works quite well.

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Thanks. Canon 10D, Canon 20mm USM lens.
I'm still not sure what size / resolution to save these pics prior to posting in order for them to look as good as possible here. I think we are limited to an image size of 60k. Is that correct?

Any advice out there? How do you all save your jpegs prior to upload?

I've been using 72 dpi for the resolution and then photoshop prompts for a quality of 1 to 12 or something like that. I usually pick between 4 and 6 in order to get the image below the 60k size.

Any advice is appreciated.

-mh.

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Well are the resolution you will get out of a monitor is 72dpi anyhow since that's what they are. But, you need to adjust your quality in PShop based on your constraints - in this websites case, I think you are right about the 60k. I usually use the Save for Web feature (PShop 6 and above I think) and that gives a hefty amount of freedom to experiment with quality versus filesize (not to mention file types).

Anyhow - all in all, whatever you are doing compression wise looks wonderful.

What is the 20mm USM - just a standard non zoomable lens with some wide to it??

Just curious...

-- (N.DG) "If all else fails – at least try and look under control." --

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The 20mm is a fixed focal length lens (no zoom). The USM is a Canon thing that stands for Ultra Sonic Motor. It's supposed to mean that the lens will autofocus quickly and quietly.

I haven't experimented with autofocus in freefall photography yet.

This is a link to Canon's site for lens information.

http://www.usa.canon.com/eflenses/lineup/wideangle/index.html


Deuce, GREAT exit shot of the skyvan.
Just a thought... there are all these photographers here, I think they should all post more pics.

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I agree, Hoym, but it's bad etiquette. It eats up a ton of HH's bandwidth. What we are supposed to be doing is putting our photos in the gallery section that has been provided and link to it.

I, however, am a postwhore with poor impulse control.

I love when somebody needs a picture, and I can put one up quickly, or when we get a topical string going.

I'm also using the 20 mm Canon, and have used autofucus real successfully, with the fill flash too. It works OK when the subject is not moving fast relative to the camera, like RW, but fails on openings or really fast closures.

My freefly photography is improving, and I'll be needing that 14mm. Last weekend I had to give a push-back motion to the three guys I was up with so I could frame them all. The 14 is the way to go with freefliers if you can get inside.

On the attached photo (Ha! Managed it again!) I really would have felt more comfortable being closer and using a wider lens. But the 14 would put me too far back of most stuff, with my flying style/ability. It works superbly on single-person or two way shoots. A 14 is on my wish list.

Edit: Yes Freaky, it's a fixed WA lens.

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Yeah, I think so. The WA adaptors for video are all pretty different. My .5 Diamond matches up pretty good with my 20mm Canon (32mm corrected).

The .3 would probably work pretty closely with the 14. Check out Pete Galli's galleries about the American Boogie. He shoots a Sigma 14 I think, with his D60

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Okay, if you don't mind, could you tell me what autofocus settings you use?

1. One Shot, AI Servo, or AI Focus. (I would guess AI Servo)
2. Which of the 7 selectable autofocus points do you use? (I'd guess all seven.)
3. Does your remote shutter release that you built have a two part switch that makes use of the stereo jack for activating the autofocus independant of the shutter release? Or did you wire both together when you built your switch?

I think this is how the switch from Canon worked before I hacked it apart. Half a push to activate the Autofocus and push the rest of the way to release the shutter.

I hard wired them together when I built my remote switch. I guess I just haven't tried it on the ground yet to see what it does when the lens is set to autofocus.

I've been meaning to try it but just haven't taken the time yet.

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Quote

Okay, if you don't mind, could you tell me what autofocus settings you use?

1. One Shot, AI Servo, or AI Focus. (I would guess AI Servo)

AI Servo.

2. Which of the 7 selectable autofocus points do you use? (I'd guess all seven.)

Only the center one. It is exactly matched to the dead-center of my concentric ringsite.

3. Does your remote shutter release that you built have a two part switch that makes use of the stereo jack for activating the autofocus independant of the shutter release? Or did you wire both together when you built your switch?

No, I don't know of a switch that would let you keep the camera focusing and then bite or something to hit the shutter. When I activate the tongue switch it focuses on that center focus point and trips. It is not fast enough to keep up with openings. The autofocus does not activate independent of the shutter. It just focuses and trips with a single activation of the tongue switch.



These are autofocus shots with fill flash.

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