Deuce 1 #1 July 18, 2002 Well, it's the only one I've ever owned. I took tips from every source I could find and I'm happy with the result. It's a Hawkeye LT with a black base color and blue marbling. Got a cameye II wired right into the D-box, the wire for the light is shrink-tubed onto the swivel mount and quick tied to the sight. The indicator light is on the outside of the sight where both me and my subject can see it. It's right against my soarz goggle when in the down position. Got a stoboframe QR for the Nikon, and the switch for the nikon is permanently soldered on. Activate the SLR with a conceptus tongue switch. The tongue switch does activate the Auto focus before it trips the shutter. The SLR plugs into a 2.5mm jack I got from radio shack. The tongue switch tucks behind the ear pad when I'm not using the film camera. The cameye button is right in front of the stoboframe, and the jack for the SLR is right behind it. Note: I should have put the Cameye button behind the camera also, because if I turn it off with my left hand, my left hand comes into frame on the video. I've started turning the camera on and off with my right hand, just to avoid having my hand obscure the beginning and end of every segment of video. I ground out the room I needed in the "attic" of the helmet with a die grinder, but a Dremel tool would work fine. Seal all exposed carbon fiber with clear nail polish. Keep clear nail polish with the camera/helmet cause when you scratch either, you can seal them up and make them look fine with an application of nail polish. The coolest thing is the laser sight. This is an airgun laser sight I got through Cabelas.com. It's $30 and is adjustable for windage and elevation. It's attached to the D-box with a "Weaver" base. A Weaver is a scope mount base. You can usually get one out of a loose parts barrel at a gun store (I was an armorer) Mount the sight to the D-box and put the camera in. Point the helmet at a wall 25' away. Turn the camera on and zoom it to maximum. Adjust the laser until the dot is shown in the middle of the video frame. Mount your film camera so that the dot is in the middle of the camera frame. Put the helmet on and adjust the ringsight to dead center of the laser dot. Voila! Perfect alignment when you account for parallax. And you don't need a volunteer from the audience to confirm that everything is aligned if the helmet rolls out of the bag on the way to the DZ. I take the laser off when jumping the helmet. The weaver base is low profile and not especially snagedelic. (It's ALL a lot more snagadelic than not wearing a camera helmet, but not bad considering.) Thats' mine, show me yours! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diverds 0 #2 July 18, 2002 Looks pretty nice! Here is mine. It is a Bonehead Optik with a Sony TRV-30 in a D-box. It is video only. I use a little paper ring on my goggles in place of a ringsight. I also have a laser sight but mine stays on the D-box all the time. It is in line with the center of the lense so there are no parallax issues with it. Just before exit I use it to align the paper ringsight on my goggles and I never have any trouble keeping things in frame and centered. I put the cameye2 light inside the goggles just prior to exit. My wife and I share this helmet so a fixed ringsight will not work for us as her head is considerably smaller and her eyes would not be in the same place as mine. Skydive Radio Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deuce 1 #3 July 18, 2002 Very cool. One of the nice things about the bonehead carbon fiber is if you scratch it you can get it looking like new with nail polish. I "rashed" mine pretty good on an exit and felt like you do when you get that first car-door ding on a new car. That nail polish made it look almost like new. That big 'SMILE' is a nice touch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diverds 0 #4 July 18, 2002 QuoteI "rashed" mine pretty good on an exit and felt like you do when you get that first car-door ding on a new car. It's not a real piece of skydiving equipment until it has a scratch, gouge, tear, patch, hole, crack or bandaid on it. Just my opinion. Skydive Radio Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaTo 0 #5 July 19, 2002 and duck-tape, don't forget the duck-tape :-) I even have some 'spare' ducktape sticked to my helmet in case of.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rdutch 0 #6 July 24, 2002 Nice helmet. But you might want to do something about all those snag points on it. One rule of a camera helmet if a line can snag on it, IT will. Those quick release still camera brackets are good for catching lines. Ever land on a no wind day an have your canopy drape you. Its hard to get the canopy off in no wind on the ground. Now imagine a line twist in front of your face or a hard opening that swings you up, And especially an unstable reserve opening. These can catch lines on your helmet real easy. Theres still not the perfect helmet but you can try and clean up any snag points. Ray Small and fast what every girl dreams of! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deuce 1 #7 November 10, 2002 I bumped this cause it has some photos of my setup and some others, and curious camera flyers have been asking about setups. The laser in the pictures is for alignment only, and I don't fly it. JP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zlew 0 #8 November 10, 2002 The Laser....there has to be something more to it. Wanted to be a SEAL, or some other Spec opps guy... SWAT even maybe? that cracks me up man. It seems to be functional for you, but it looks like you had the toy (laser) and figured out a place to put it. I duct taped a laser pointer to my BB gun when I was a kid.... you and me.... I thinks' we'z a lot alike! Z Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
x3mcam 0 #9 November 10, 2002 Out of curiosity; Ever thought of a cut away system foe that set up? tomppa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deuce 1 #10 November 10, 2002 Yo Z! Getting the cameras aligned without help is worth the Buzz Lightyear ribbingAnd some way to effectively chop the helmet hasn't shown up yet. I've got about 130 jumps on it, and haven't had a single problem. I jump a Spectre, though, and haven't had any bad openings, either. Worst so far was brake line unstowed on opening, and I pulled some G's before I got the other brake out. TO FOURTEEN THOUSAND, AND BEYOND! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhreeZone 15 #11 November 11, 2002 Simple... effective.. and it only cost me about $.45 and 15 minutes.... The spring goes inside to provide tension and pulls the bar inside the helmet to prevent it from catching there. (You might need to lighten the photos depending on your computer settings) Yesterday is history And tomorrow is a mystery Parachutemanuals.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deuce 1 #12 November 11, 2002 Phree, that's just plain garage genius.That's the best, simplest, cheapest solution I've seen yet. You've got me thinking, and that's no small feat. I've had the ratchet come undone, and without the additional chinstrap, I'd a lost the whole shebang. Two pins, one for the chinstrap and one for the ratchet, both on one handle...... I think the argument you'll hear, with or without merit, is that when the helmet comes under tension with your whole body hanging from it suspended under a line entaglement, that you couldn't pull the pin. That's the genius of the three ring system, as I understand it. So maybe a combination of your pin idea, which I think is brilliant, combined with a ring system to address the issue of detachment under load is the ultimate solution to helmet cutaways that are compact and safe. Really neat! If you're coming to Eloy, I'll share a pitcher of good beer with you for sharing that! Simple and low profile. That's the kind of genius that built the first airplane and invented Velcro. Coolio. JP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhreeZone 15 #13 November 11, 2002 To pull the pin the 1 inch required even under full tension (some one holding the helmet and me under it) only takes pulling it at about 10-15 pounds of force. It takes almost as much strength to open the velcro as it does to pull the pin (Industrial strength, never had it move on head down dives the protrack has recorded at 205 mph). Keeping the pin oiled helps a lot. The spring adds the majority of the tension and if its removed and a washer is inserted for spacing... the pull force is about 3-7 pounds, but it lease the pin exposed for the strap to still catch on. Reserve's are legal to 22 pounds and they have to be pulled at least 2 inches. Its easier to pull this under full tension then it is a reserve in most cases. Three rings have to be made to near exact standerds in order to keep the mechanical advantage they create. Improperly made set ups can even increase the pull force. Not to mention they are a large snag hazard if on the helmet. Even Skyboards that can get under intense presure only use a 1 or 2 ring design that only serves to fasten the binding, it does'nt matter on the pull force since its main purpose is just to fall apart when the release cable is pulled. If you've have the ratchet come undone then something is wrong in your camera set up. Either the ratchet straps are cut too short or the springs inside the ratches are junk. On a properly designed helmet there is no reason to keep the secondary (original) strap. In fact... having both might actually cause the ratchet to fail due to not being able to tighten it enough. I have mine so tight I have issues opening my mouth to geek the camera's but in 250 jumps it's never even thought about coming loose on my head or releasing.Yesterday is history And tomorrow is a mystery Parachutemanuals.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zlew 0 #14 November 11, 2002 I sight mine in with a TV and using the AV cable. THe wire can snake out of the openning of the D-box and into the VCR at the DZ. We have some marks on the walls to Zero in with, and I just use the TV's (Set up low on it like I do a tandem, and zero it that way). Its no fun to have to find someone to get you zero'ed....and nobody else can really get it the way you want it. I like the Cut away you showed. I have a bat Rack though, and have to un clamp the back (just pop the hing, not un thread) and undo one on the chin cups to get it off. I can do it really fast ( and parctice) but a quck release would be nice too. I might see if I can come up with something for the back hing. Very cool man. Blue skies Z Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brentfinley 0 #15 November 11, 2002 Dude... I must object to that paper circle... :)www.brentfinley.com [email protected] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brentfinley 0 #16 November 11, 2002 Surely you mean GAFFERS tape, right? Blue ones.www.brentfinley.com [email protected] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skreamer 1 #17 November 11, 2002 Quote In fact... having both might actually cause the ratchet to fail due to not being able to tighten it enough. I disagree. I've used both straps for about the last 120 jumps (kept original strap when I added Bonehead chincup). The original strap has no effect on how tight I ratchet the chincup (at least on my setup). I like having the second strap there (eg its more comfortable on take-off just to clip on the second strap). Quote On a properly designed helmet there is no reason to keep the secondary (original) strap. I'm sure you know more about designing helmets than Arrow Dynamics (Hawkeye).Will BTW both my straps are on the same cutaway system. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deuce 1 #18 November 11, 2002 Quote Dude... I must object to that paper circle... :) LOL! Yes, the sight and the swivel mount are Finley's Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
diverds 0 #19 November 11, 2002 QuoteDude... I must object to that paper circle... I would be glad to replace it with one of your ringsights if you would like to make a donation. Skydive Radio Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AndyMan 7 #20 November 12, 2002 QuoteSimple... effective.. and it only cost me about $.45 and 15 minutes Eric, a few questions. 1) where did you get the parts? 2) does the spring provide enough tension to force the chin strap off the pin while under tension? I don't doubt you can pull the pin, rather that the system will instantly dissasemble when you do. _Am__ You put the fun in "funnel" - craichead. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhreeZone 15 #21 November 12, 2002 The Spring came from a Z1, the 2 cotter pins ($.07 each) came from the local Sears Hardware store (1 mile from my place) and the hitch bolt was the most expensive part at $.25. It was originally 3 inches long but 10 minutes with the dremel had it cut down to the right size. The cool thing on the spring is since its inside the helmet it serves to suck the bolt assembly inside the helmet and keep it there. If I had another spring I'd mount it under the strap in addition to inside the helmet to insure it clears. It hung up one time in testing but flexing my jaw was enough to free it.Yesterday is history And tomorrow is a mystery Parachutemanuals.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pablito 0 #22 November 21, 2002 You have the right to object on this I hope you have a great Day Cielos Azules Pablito "If you don't overcome your fears they will overcome you first" Shady Monkey/6Segundos Rodriguez/AKA Pablito Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Craig 0 #23 January 23, 2003 Just to add a little more discussion to the cutaway systems. I am gonna set up my strap to helmet connection like Phree above (just to add we jump at the same DZ and I have seen the system first hand and is slick and simple). The problem I run into on my bonehead is the audible pocket is closer to where the strap is connected so I really don't have room for he cutaway handle there so I came up with another idea for the handle placement. The pic pretty much illustrates what is going on. Just to add the helmet could still be released by the ratchet if so desired on the cutaway side just to be safe, you would just be pulling the pin out as well. Just wondering what everyone thinks? As a side note I don't have a d-box attached yet... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tictoc 0 #24 January 23, 2003 So when the ratchet accidentally gets released you will have to put the cutaway system back together??? Or when some one accidently gets their thumb caught under it whiles trying to Spock you it will be gone?? Just my opinion, to much to chance. Why don’t you run the cable to just behind the didder pocket and just on the bottom of the helmet? I would also do away with the cotter pin and just use the cable like bonehead does. You could also drill a hole and put the extra cable in the helmet. This would alow you to have more cable, maby 2 inches.-------------------------------------------------------- Some one must go to the edge for others to be able to find it. But if you go be sure you can make it back. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vandev 0 #25 January 23, 2003 What kind of box is that? It looks like it fits perfect. I ask as i have a cannon elura 40mc and im thinking of having a box custom made to fit it. Anyone ever make there own d-box! Thanks Bros, Blue Skie's In the end...the universe has a way of working itself out.... "Harold and Kumar go to White Castle" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
