Brake Setting on Sabre2

[MagicGuy 0]

Hey guys.

I just bought a used Sabre2 120 with a not-so-good line set on it. Lines themselves aren't in bad shape but they are way out of trim. The brake lines are definitely pretty short.

I've only done a few jumps on it, mainly due to the condition of the lines and a recent case of bronchitis. As expected, the stall point was right at my waist and forget about even touching the fronts.. it bucks like a MF.

Line set is going to be ordered next weekend, so I should be good to go pretty soon, but..

My question is: Are the factory brake setting on a Sabre2 generally long enough to where the canopy won't buck on a HP approach? I had to lengthen the brakes a good deal on my last canopy, which was a Pilot 150, so I was just curious if this is something I will have to do on the Sabre, as well.

Thanks for any input, much appreciated.

[dragon2 0]

Don't know about the sabre2 specifically, but so far on every canopy I've had I needed to lengthen the steering lines, except on safires. Even a lot of (new) HP canopies are set up too short And then people complain about the safire having not so much flare, when it does, you just need to flare all the way Seems most people are used to the shorter lines, even seen a few swoop competitors with the topskin making funny waves and the canopy braking a bit while in fronts

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[MagicGuy 0]

Yeah, I agree. I think people get used to short brake lines. I don't see why anyone with a HP canopy would want them, though.. unless they are in the corner a LOT and need to dig out of it quickly.

[Fab 0]

On my previous canopy (new sabre2) I had to lenghten them by about 8 to 10 cms

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[Blink 0]

I got my Sabre2 135 directly from PD after a re-line and I can pull the fronts down to my chest and the tail doesn't deflect. I don't think I could have fine tuned them any better myself. To stall it I have to hold them all the way down and wait a couple seconds. It's set up perfectly. (for me)

[JanuszPS 0]

Based on my experience (WL 1.25 Sa2 150 100 jumps) with Sabre 2 (2nd hand about 400j), the brakes were in that range that I could only get nice full range for flare with nice landing but no fronts, or get them longer with good dive but no full landing range (stall definitely too low). Everything in between cost me buckling while on fronts and short flare.
Janusz

Back to Poland... back home.

[MagicGuy 0]

I'm having my rigger order the line set and having him do the install. My wingloading on the 120 is 1.27.

Last time I jumped a Sabre2 135, it was a demo from PD and the brake lines were definitely not long enough for HP approaches. Not a whole lot of bucking, but it definitely wasn't as smooth as I like it.

[Reginald 0]

I’ve found the initial settings on my Sabre2’s to be about right. I’ve bought 3 new ones and 2 of the three were right at the “factory” settings. One I had to lengthen. EVERY one had to have the brake lines lengthened after about 200 jumps, for obvious reasons, though. As for a demo canopy I wouldn’t read anything into it, like a rental car you just don’t know where it’s been.

That said the first thing you need to do on a new canopy is go do a jump finding the stall point, looking at the amount of slack in the brakes, how it responds to riser input, etc. and make adjustments to the brake length.

"We've been looking for the enemy for some time now. We've finally found him. We're surrounded. That simplifies things." CP

[Buffdiver 0]

When I bought my used Sabre2 135 last year it had 200 jumps on it. Brakes were at factory setting and any front riser input resulted in major bucking of the canopy. My rigger maxed out the steering lines but still had minor bucking. Ended up replacing the lowers but the end result ended up with a sweet opening/swooping canopy. I just sold this canopy but let the buyer know the mods I had done (he is 5 inches shorter than me). My new Crossfire has the opposite prob. It hauls ass coming in but I cant seem to shut it down enough. Looking back on some video the brake lines are 1-2 inches too long for me. The best thing is to test jump and adjust your canopy to your body specs. what is perfect for some may be too short/long for others. The new lineset should improve things a bunch though. I loved my SA135 for a great transitional canopy to my new elliptical. Good luck, and enjoy.

[phoenixlpr 0]

Quote

When I bought my used Sabre2 135 last year it had 200 jumps on it. Brakes were at factory setting and any front riser input resulted in major bucking of the canopy.

Factory does not get lines shrinking, but jumping does.

Quote

The best thing is to test jump and adjust your canopy to your body specs.

You must have been kidding. It has nothing to do with you.

You should be able to check if breaks in correct length.

[DanG 1]

If the lines shrink above the cat's-eye, then correct length lowers still make for too short brake lines. Once the brakes are released, it doesn't matter if the lowers are too short, or the uppers are too short. If the steering lines are too short, the canopy will buck when you pull the front risers.

I agree with buffdiver about adjusting the brake lines to your body. I recently bought a Sabre2 from someone whom I've never met, but am pretty sure she had significantly shorter arms than mine. She had the brakes set VERY short. This can be effective for someone with short arms and short risers to get sufficient flare out of a canopy. It also means that front riser control is not available to that person. I've already taken about 4 inches out, and will probably take 2 more out next weekend.

On the other hand, I think buffdiver was incorrect in attributing sweeter openings to longer lower brake lines, since the lowers are not involved whatsoever in opening.

- Dan G