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sakaad

270 Front Risers

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Hi everyone, I was after some advice on how to get some "safe" speed out of my canopy. I am on a Safire 2 135 loaded at 1.4. I currently am doing 90 degree front risers and can do the consistently and accurately. I find that after the riser input I am usually a bit high and need to stay on the fronts to keep the speed up and even to the point that all the speed washes off. ( Obviously too high but I'm not bothered). Is this ok? Even though I am loosing the speed generated by the turn. I dont mind doing this at this point because I know that I'm not too close to the deck and is a bit safer. I have also been doing 270's up high with full height hop n pops. I am wondering what is the principle behind it? Do you do the turn and stay on the risers to maintain the dive or after the turn is completed, you shouldnt have to do any input on rears/toggles until the flare at the end? Is a 270 safer than a 180 due to the lack of vision of looking over your shoulder? This is what I've been told and tend to agree a bit even though I havent done any 270's close to the deck yet. A few of the guy's like to bury a toggle and do a huge 180 degree hookie and they generate heaps of speed for there swoop. Fronts are heaps safer in my book and I plan to stick with it.
What do ya think? All help is always appreciated, thanks.

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well if you don't have your 90s dialed in yet stick with them. i'm doing front riser 90s for about 500jumps with the same sized canopy and i'm not over with them by far...

i don't know how many jumps you have doing this turns (how much you learned/experienced), but with my turns in no wind days i went around 200-250feets (gates are 3 feet high)and i know i can go further with the same turn. so why switching to something more dangerous and difficult if i have more to learn with this aproach i'm doing at the moment... :)
I'd advise the same for you.
"George just lucky i guess!"

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Hi everyone, I was after some advice on how to get some "safe" speed out of my canopy



You don't need to turn far or agressively to get plenty of speed. As a data point I clocked 48 MPH on RADAR with a carving 90 degree front riser turn under my Stiletto 120. A better pilot that got out of his dive smoother would have been faster through the gates.

You'll go farther and faster with a well-executed 90 than a poor 180 and have an easier time putting it where you want.

Start high because speed comes from acceleration over distance, establish roll angle to set your acceleration with a front riser, maintain roll angle to keep it through the dive using both risers so your turn fits into the space available, and come out smoothly with no (or minimal) toggle input

Take a class and get video so you aren't doing things like digging out without knowing it (bruised my heels that way).



Establish roll angle. A faster


. I am on a Safire 2 135 loaded at 1.4. I currently am doing 90 degree front risers and can do the consistently and accurately. I find that after the riser input I am usually a bit high and need to stay on the fronts to keep the speed up and even to the point that all the speed washes off. ( Obviously too high but I'm not bothered). Is this ok? Even though I am loosing the speed generated by the turn. I dont mind doing this at this point because I know that I'm not too close to the deck and is a bit safer. I have also been doing 270's up high with full height hop n pops. I am wondering what is the principle behind it? Do you do the turn and stay on the risers to maintain the dive or after the turn is completed, you shouldnt have to do any input on rears/toggles until the flare at the end? Is a 270 safer than a 180 due to the lack of vision of looking over your shoulder? This is what I've been told and tend to agree a bit even though I havent done any 270's close to the deck yet. A few of the guy's like to bury a toggle and do a huge 180 degree hookie and they generate heaps of speed for there swoop. Fronts are heaps safer in my book and I plan to stick with it.
What do ya think? All help is always appreciated, thanks.

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