crosscountry 0 #1 December 27, 2003 I've got 28 jumps and the only thing i have left before i send off my A card is to get my pack job signed off. Anybody have some kind of packing cheat sheet that i could lay down on the ground while i am learning to pack, like a step by step guide or some kind of outline....i'm having a some trouble learning....thanks for all your tips and help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites kai2k1 0 #2 December 27, 2003 Do this, Slip one of the packers at your DZ A jump ticket or $20. They'll show you how to pack till you can do it blindfolded. There's no truer sense of flying than sky diving," Scott Cowan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Hazarrd 1 #3 December 27, 2003 i paid like $40 for my packing class. took me another free packing class to learn how to do it real good. .-. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites crosscountry 0 #4 December 27, 2003 yeah, i've taken a few packing classes but in order to get it signed off i need to be able to pack "without assistance", i always seem to forget some little detail, or what to do next...ya know? and i need to ask someone near by, anywho...i just think if i had some kind of outline that i could look at while i was packing to make sure i didn't forget any steps, or what to do next....that it would help me learn without constantly bugging people.....thanks for all your input Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites DJL 232 #5 December 27, 2003 This shouldn't replace getting a real lesson but go up to anyone who seems cool and ask to watch them pack and ask them to just say out loud what they're doing. This is just slam bam procedure, get better advice than mine for REALLY learning. Ask questions."I encourage all awesome dangerous behavior." - Jeffro Fincher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites tlshealy 0 #6 December 27, 2003 There are a couple of sites on-line that have good packing instructions with pictures that you can print. I know that aerodyne use to have good packing instructions and I think precision had some also. You might also check PD's site. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites nightjumps 1 #7 December 27, 2003 One for flat-packing. One for Pro-packing. Psycho-packing is on the Icarus site. The checklists are intended as a guide. If you show them to someone, they may have incremental differences. As you progress, you'll see many variations and techniques. I've had many students say, "Well, so & so does it this way." Remember this: "Different isn't neccesarily wrong." In flat-packing, some pack nose left, some nose right. The single common denominator that I have found (riggers feel free to jump in) is "Line Order and Line Tension." 1300+ jumps - no reserve rides. I strongly believe in those two elements. Here's your checklists... Edited to add: I teach Pro-Packing a little different. I have the students place the right line group over the right shoulder and the left line group over the left shoulder... then spread everything out so the center cell seam is running right down their crotch line. Its been my experience that its easier for the students to see the different line groups and center cell. Eventually, they migrate to all line groups over one shoulder once they get comfortable with identifying the line groups on their own. Course, I demonstrate flat-packing first, so they see the A, B, C, & D line groups. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites riggerrob 558 #8 December 27, 2003 5 major points to any pack job 1. lines straight 2. brakes set 3. slider up 4. rubber bands tight around lines 5. bridle routed straight from pin to handle Everything else is a minor point. My pet peeve is people who devote a half hour to flaking the bottom skin (minor point), but lose control of the slider (major point) while bagging the canopy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites nightjumps 1 #9 December 27, 2003 Good points. I should put those in bold on the cheat sheet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites nightjumps 1 #10 December 27, 2003 riggerrob made some suggestions that I bolded on the cheat sheet. Unfortunately, that exceeds the 60 Kb allowance for uploading. If you'd like the newer version; email me and I'll send it directly to you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Nightingale 0 #11 December 27, 2003 I'd also add: Cock the pilot chute if its a collapsible one. I know a guy at perris who just got his A not too long ago... had two mals in one weekend because he forgot to do this. OUCH! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites nightjumps 1 #12 December 27, 2003 Yup. Its in there and bolded. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites crosscountry 0 #13 December 27, 2003 Thanks alot guys...i think this will help me out lot Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites skycop 0 #14 December 27, 2003 Very nice!! A good refresher for me after a long winter!!! Thanks! Blue Skies!! "Just 'cause I'm simple, don't mean I'm stewpid!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Mad47 0 #15 December 27, 2003 Nice checklist The only I would do differenly is cocking PC before you flake the canopy and put in into d-bag. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites jdthomas 0 #16 December 28, 2003 Cross country Packing can freak you out, listen to Bigun and rigger rob for good advice. I say wad it up, throw it in the bag and support your local rigger! or send it to me for a repack I need the cash. JTwww.greenboxphotography.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites ernokaikkonen 0 #17 December 28, 2003 Quote5 major points to any pack job 1. lines straight 2. brakes set 3. slider up 4. rubber bands tight around lines 5. bridle routed straight from pin to handle Everything else is a minor point. I'd add to number 2: 2. brakes set & slider uncollapsed & PC cocked I do all three at the same time before starting the actual packjob. Missing any one has the potential of ruining your day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites sid 1 #18 December 28, 2003 http://www.sidsrigging.com/Articles/packing/packing_index.htmPete Draper, Just because my life plan is written on the back of a Hooter's Napkin, it's still a life plan.... right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites skymick 0 #19 December 28, 2003 OK I got one problem with the pro packing check list. You have the PC cocked after the canopy in the D-bag, does'nt this mean that some of the canopy can be pinched by the bridle/rapide link inside the D-bag if the kill line inside the D-bag happens to grab some material when it is pulled through the bridle and cause it to rip the canopy on deployment? Would'nt it be better to cock the PC either when you uncollapse the slider or lay the canopy down before bagging it? I have seen this happen myself, someone cocked the PC after bagging the canopy..after he got down found out that there was a 10cm tear in the top skin of the canopy. Anyone want to confirm/clarify the above suggestion? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites nightjumps 1 #20 December 28, 2003 I must admit to not having it in there because I have seen numerous folks "Pre-Cock" and never verify the cock after getting it in the bag. SO, I've been teaching students to ensure the kill line is centered in the D-bag prior to placing the canopy in the bag... Then you only have to cock the kill line once after the first two stows are done. However, consensus amongst my peers would dictate that I change it. I have done so, but added a "Stop Check" on the chekclist to verify the P/C has been cocked. Unfortunately, the changes and bolding of important points is greater than the 60 kb upload allowance. So here it is for you to manipulate, bold, modify, as you see fit. If you'd like version 2 in MS Word format with rows and check boxes, send me an email and I'll send it to ya: Tie 3-rings together with “Pull-up” cord Place two weights in main packing tray Brakes Stowed (Set) (Excess brake line NOT routed through risers) Slider Up and UN-collapsed Right-side toggles in Right hand/Left-side toggles in Left Hand Walk down to canopy maintaining Line Order & Line Tension Line Group Check – 1) Right front group to right front of canopy; 2) Right rear group to right rear of canopy; 3) Right brake line group to right furthest rear of canopy; 4) Left front group to left front of canopy; 5) Left rear group to left rear of canopy; 6) Left brake line group to left furthest rear of canopy. Place all line groups on right shoulder with nose to the left Count and collect nose cells (7 or 9) Grab all nose cells and punch towards center of canopy and vigorously pull left Place both hands over canopy and smooth out excess air Peek between stabilizer groups to check for line continuity NOSE – according to manufacturer or personal specs (Roll and stuff or leave alone) Place nose between legs Split line groups on either side of your head Pull slider over head across back of neck Ensure the CENTER CELL Seam runs straight down “D” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “D” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left “C” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “C” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left “B” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “B” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left Grab Right side “A” and stabilizer lines and flake out stabilizer canopy to the right Grab Left side “A” and stabilizer lines and flake out stabilizer canopy to the left Redress from top to bottom ensuring lines are along center seam and canopy is chopped outwards creating “S” folds between each line group. Bend over at the waist 90 degrees and gently release canopy Pull slider over head and quarter between line groups as deep into the canopy as possible. Pull all four lines groups off shoulders and place on right shoulder maintaining line tension to rig (milk any line slack up and down into the canopy). Re-dress all lines to center seam Find center of tail and place left hand at the bottom of all the line groups Gently pull tail up to the bottom of the slider & four line group while keeping lines down and centered with left hand GENTLY Pull tail around canopy Wrap bottom of tail TIGHTLY around the four line groups Wrap tail ends towards nose until they meet Twist & wrap top and bottom of tail together at least five times Place four line groups in right hand and wrapped tail in left hand Go down on right knee and use left forearm to gently lay parachute down Cock “Kill Line” Pilot Chute Place right knee on tail/lines and lay down on the canopy to remove excess air Redress canopy from bottom to top criss-crossing inwards until parachute width is same size as “D” bag. Lay on canopy and remove final excess air. While laying down, check deployment bag bands and orient for parachute stowing Remove weights Kneeling on right side of canopy, place “karate chop” one-third up canopy and “S” fold Straddle and maintain first “S” fold with hand Pull next third over first “S” fold creating three “S” folds Dress top of canopy into “S” folds Gently place knee on top of all “S” folds Pull “D” Bag over canopy using “Condom” method Roll bag towards lines/ rubber band through grommet and stow first line group 1.5 inches (Ensure rubber band stows are tight) Rubber band through second grommet and stow second line group 1.5 inches STOP Re-Cock or verify kill-line parachute or Pull standard pilot chute bridle grommet to grommet Continue “S” folding lines approximately 1.5 inches until there is ~18” of suspension line Place bag in main pack tray with toggles facing towards reserve container. & close tuck tabs according to manufacturer specs.. Place excess suspension line in a “V” at a 45 degree angle towards bottom of pack tray while holding the bag by the bridle above the pack tray. Place D-bag in main pack (straight up & down or down and rotate according to manufacturer) Close main pack tray flaps according to manufacturer’s closing specifications Fold pilot chute as trained and place in BOC (if there are bulges in the BOC, use fist to flatten and check for “Monkey Fist.” Ensure bridle routed straight from pin to handle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites nightjumps 1 #21 December 28, 2003 Nice job on the packing visuals, Sid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites sid 1 #22 December 28, 2003 QuoteNice job on the packing visuals, Sid. Thanks - that part of the site gets a LOT of hits!Pete Draper, Just because my life plan is written on the back of a Hooter's Napkin, it's still a life plan.... right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites JennyB 0 #23 December 29, 2003 You know this may be scary, but i had about 30 jumps and i had a wonderful jumpmaster spend about an hour teaching me to pack (or did he do it because of the short shorts?) anyhow,i couldn't get it in the bag because i bought a brand new canopy. (the experienced jumpers were trash packing my canopy- they could hardly get it in the d-bag) so i took it home and cussed and fought and got it in the bag.Next day i jumped it! and noone watched me pack it. What a freak i was! Me and another guy who was learning to pack was deciding what we were going to do after we cut away our main " do we chase it down or come back to the D.Z. then go get it?" Someone heard us and said " that has to be one of the craziest dirt dives i ever heard!" thank goodness both of our canopies opened. I figured i had a reserve.....crazy- i know better now.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites jumpinjackflash 0 #24 December 31, 2003 Exactly, one more thing though Kai... I slipped our packer "the fee" and, I video taped him packing too. I spent the other nite, at home (8 weeks later), packing my rig and going step by step through what my packer had taught me. Play, Rewind, Stop, FFwd... Very cool truly. jus my two cents. JackIt's a gas, gas, gas... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Auryn 0 #25 December 31, 2003 one note on the checklist that I saw, and riggers correct me if I am wrong (this is a minor point) the checklist recommends to cock the PC after the canopy is in the bag. I have been told that doing this can cause excess wear on the topskin of the canopy and even wear a hole in it. anyone with more experience on this one ? Blue Ones ! D 27808 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2 Join the conversation You can post now and register later. 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kai2k1 0 #2 December 27, 2003 Do this, Slip one of the packers at your DZ A jump ticket or $20. They'll show you how to pack till you can do it blindfolded. There's no truer sense of flying than sky diving," Scott Cowan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hazarrd 1 #3 December 27, 2003 i paid like $40 for my packing class. took me another free packing class to learn how to do it real good. .-. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crosscountry 0 #4 December 27, 2003 yeah, i've taken a few packing classes but in order to get it signed off i need to be able to pack "without assistance", i always seem to forget some little detail, or what to do next...ya know? and i need to ask someone near by, anywho...i just think if i had some kind of outline that i could look at while i was packing to make sure i didn't forget any steps, or what to do next....that it would help me learn without constantly bugging people.....thanks for all your input Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DJL 232 #5 December 27, 2003 This shouldn't replace getting a real lesson but go up to anyone who seems cool and ask to watch them pack and ask them to just say out loud what they're doing. This is just slam bam procedure, get better advice than mine for REALLY learning. Ask questions."I encourage all awesome dangerous behavior." - Jeffro Fincher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tlshealy 0 #6 December 27, 2003 There are a couple of sites on-line that have good packing instructions with pictures that you can print. I know that aerodyne use to have good packing instructions and I think precision had some also. You might also check PD's site. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nightjumps 1 #7 December 27, 2003 One for flat-packing. One for Pro-packing. Psycho-packing is on the Icarus site. The checklists are intended as a guide. If you show them to someone, they may have incremental differences. As you progress, you'll see many variations and techniques. I've had many students say, "Well, so & so does it this way." Remember this: "Different isn't neccesarily wrong." In flat-packing, some pack nose left, some nose right. The single common denominator that I have found (riggers feel free to jump in) is "Line Order and Line Tension." 1300+ jumps - no reserve rides. I strongly believe in those two elements. Here's your checklists... Edited to add: I teach Pro-Packing a little different. I have the students place the right line group over the right shoulder and the left line group over the left shoulder... then spread everything out so the center cell seam is running right down their crotch line. Its been my experience that its easier for the students to see the different line groups and center cell. Eventually, they migrate to all line groups over one shoulder once they get comfortable with identifying the line groups on their own. Course, I demonstrate flat-packing first, so they see the A, B, C, & D line groups. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
riggerrob 558 #8 December 27, 2003 5 major points to any pack job 1. lines straight 2. brakes set 3. slider up 4. rubber bands tight around lines 5. bridle routed straight from pin to handle Everything else is a minor point. My pet peeve is people who devote a half hour to flaking the bottom skin (minor point), but lose control of the slider (major point) while bagging the canopy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nightjumps 1 #9 December 27, 2003 Good points. I should put those in bold on the cheat sheet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nightjumps 1 #10 December 27, 2003 riggerrob made some suggestions that I bolded on the cheat sheet. Unfortunately, that exceeds the 60 Kb allowance for uploading. If you'd like the newer version; email me and I'll send it directly to you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nightingale 0 #11 December 27, 2003 I'd also add: Cock the pilot chute if its a collapsible one. I know a guy at perris who just got his A not too long ago... had two mals in one weekend because he forgot to do this. OUCH! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nightjumps 1 #12 December 27, 2003 Yup. Its in there and bolded. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crosscountry 0 #13 December 27, 2003 Thanks alot guys...i think this will help me out lot Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites skycop 0 #14 December 27, 2003 Very nice!! A good refresher for me after a long winter!!! Thanks! Blue Skies!! "Just 'cause I'm simple, don't mean I'm stewpid!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Mad47 0 #15 December 27, 2003 Nice checklist The only I would do differenly is cocking PC before you flake the canopy and put in into d-bag. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites jdthomas 0 #16 December 28, 2003 Cross country Packing can freak you out, listen to Bigun and rigger rob for good advice. I say wad it up, throw it in the bag and support your local rigger! or send it to me for a repack I need the cash. JTwww.greenboxphotography.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites ernokaikkonen 0 #17 December 28, 2003 Quote5 major points to any pack job 1. lines straight 2. brakes set 3. slider up 4. rubber bands tight around lines 5. bridle routed straight from pin to handle Everything else is a minor point. I'd add to number 2: 2. brakes set & slider uncollapsed & PC cocked I do all three at the same time before starting the actual packjob. Missing any one has the potential of ruining your day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites sid 1 #18 December 28, 2003 http://www.sidsrigging.com/Articles/packing/packing_index.htmPete Draper, Just because my life plan is written on the back of a Hooter's Napkin, it's still a life plan.... right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites skymick 0 #19 December 28, 2003 OK I got one problem with the pro packing check list. You have the PC cocked after the canopy in the D-bag, does'nt this mean that some of the canopy can be pinched by the bridle/rapide link inside the D-bag if the kill line inside the D-bag happens to grab some material when it is pulled through the bridle and cause it to rip the canopy on deployment? Would'nt it be better to cock the PC either when you uncollapse the slider or lay the canopy down before bagging it? I have seen this happen myself, someone cocked the PC after bagging the canopy..after he got down found out that there was a 10cm tear in the top skin of the canopy. Anyone want to confirm/clarify the above suggestion? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites nightjumps 1 #20 December 28, 2003 I must admit to not having it in there because I have seen numerous folks "Pre-Cock" and never verify the cock after getting it in the bag. SO, I've been teaching students to ensure the kill line is centered in the D-bag prior to placing the canopy in the bag... Then you only have to cock the kill line once after the first two stows are done. However, consensus amongst my peers would dictate that I change it. I have done so, but added a "Stop Check" on the chekclist to verify the P/C has been cocked. Unfortunately, the changes and bolding of important points is greater than the 60 kb upload allowance. So here it is for you to manipulate, bold, modify, as you see fit. If you'd like version 2 in MS Word format with rows and check boxes, send me an email and I'll send it to ya: Tie 3-rings together with “Pull-up” cord Place two weights in main packing tray Brakes Stowed (Set) (Excess brake line NOT routed through risers) Slider Up and UN-collapsed Right-side toggles in Right hand/Left-side toggles in Left Hand Walk down to canopy maintaining Line Order & Line Tension Line Group Check – 1) Right front group to right front of canopy; 2) Right rear group to right rear of canopy; 3) Right brake line group to right furthest rear of canopy; 4) Left front group to left front of canopy; 5) Left rear group to left rear of canopy; 6) Left brake line group to left furthest rear of canopy. Place all line groups on right shoulder with nose to the left Count and collect nose cells (7 or 9) Grab all nose cells and punch towards center of canopy and vigorously pull left Place both hands over canopy and smooth out excess air Peek between stabilizer groups to check for line continuity NOSE – according to manufacturer or personal specs (Roll and stuff or leave alone) Place nose between legs Split line groups on either side of your head Pull slider over head across back of neck Ensure the CENTER CELL Seam runs straight down “D” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “D” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left “C” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “C” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left “B” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “B” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left Grab Right side “A” and stabilizer lines and flake out stabilizer canopy to the right Grab Left side “A” and stabilizer lines and flake out stabilizer canopy to the left Redress from top to bottom ensuring lines are along center seam and canopy is chopped outwards creating “S” folds between each line group. Bend over at the waist 90 degrees and gently release canopy Pull slider over head and quarter between line groups as deep into the canopy as possible. Pull all four lines groups off shoulders and place on right shoulder maintaining line tension to rig (milk any line slack up and down into the canopy). Re-dress all lines to center seam Find center of tail and place left hand at the bottom of all the line groups Gently pull tail up to the bottom of the slider & four line group while keeping lines down and centered with left hand GENTLY Pull tail around canopy Wrap bottom of tail TIGHTLY around the four line groups Wrap tail ends towards nose until they meet Twist & wrap top and bottom of tail together at least five times Place four line groups in right hand and wrapped tail in left hand Go down on right knee and use left forearm to gently lay parachute down Cock “Kill Line” Pilot Chute Place right knee on tail/lines and lay down on the canopy to remove excess air Redress canopy from bottom to top criss-crossing inwards until parachute width is same size as “D” bag. Lay on canopy and remove final excess air. While laying down, check deployment bag bands and orient for parachute stowing Remove weights Kneeling on right side of canopy, place “karate chop” one-third up canopy and “S” fold Straddle and maintain first “S” fold with hand Pull next third over first “S” fold creating three “S” folds Dress top of canopy into “S” folds Gently place knee on top of all “S” folds Pull “D” Bag over canopy using “Condom” method Roll bag towards lines/ rubber band through grommet and stow first line group 1.5 inches (Ensure rubber band stows are tight) Rubber band through second grommet and stow second line group 1.5 inches STOP Re-Cock or verify kill-line parachute or Pull standard pilot chute bridle grommet to grommet Continue “S” folding lines approximately 1.5 inches until there is ~18” of suspension line Place bag in main pack tray with toggles facing towards reserve container. & close tuck tabs according to manufacturer specs.. Place excess suspension line in a “V” at a 45 degree angle towards bottom of pack tray while holding the bag by the bridle above the pack tray. Place D-bag in main pack (straight up & down or down and rotate according to manufacturer) Close main pack tray flaps according to manufacturer’s closing specifications Fold pilot chute as trained and place in BOC (if there are bulges in the BOC, use fist to flatten and check for “Monkey Fist.” Ensure bridle routed straight from pin to handle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites nightjumps 1 #21 December 28, 2003 Nice job on the packing visuals, Sid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites sid 1 #22 December 28, 2003 QuoteNice job on the packing visuals, Sid. Thanks - that part of the site gets a LOT of hits!Pete Draper, Just because my life plan is written on the back of a Hooter's Napkin, it's still a life plan.... right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites JennyB 0 #23 December 29, 2003 You know this may be scary, but i had about 30 jumps and i had a wonderful jumpmaster spend about an hour teaching me to pack (or did he do it because of the short shorts?) anyhow,i couldn't get it in the bag because i bought a brand new canopy. (the experienced jumpers were trash packing my canopy- they could hardly get it in the d-bag) so i took it home and cussed and fought and got it in the bag.Next day i jumped it! and noone watched me pack it. What a freak i was! Me and another guy who was learning to pack was deciding what we were going to do after we cut away our main " do we chase it down or come back to the D.Z. then go get it?" Someone heard us and said " that has to be one of the craziest dirt dives i ever heard!" thank goodness both of our canopies opened. I figured i had a reserve.....crazy- i know better now.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites jumpinjackflash 0 #24 December 31, 2003 Exactly, one more thing though Kai... I slipped our packer "the fee" and, I video taped him packing too. I spent the other nite, at home (8 weeks later), packing my rig and going step by step through what my packer had taught me. Play, Rewind, Stop, FFwd... Very cool truly. jus my two cents. JackIt's a gas, gas, gas... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Auryn 0 #25 December 31, 2003 one note on the checklist that I saw, and riggers correct me if I am wrong (this is a minor point) the checklist recommends to cock the PC after the canopy is in the bag. I have been told that doing this can cause excess wear on the topskin of the canopy and even wear a hole in it. anyone with more experience on this one ? Blue Ones ! D 27808 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites Prev 1 2 Next Page 1 of 2 Join the conversation You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible. Reply to this topic... × Pasted as rich text. Paste as plain text instead Only 75 emoji are allowed. × Your link has been automatically embedded. Display as a link instead × Your previous content has been restored. Clear editor × You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL. Insert image from URL × Desktop Tablet Phone Submit Reply 0
skycop 0 #14 December 27, 2003 Very nice!! A good refresher for me after a long winter!!! Thanks! Blue Skies!! "Just 'cause I'm simple, don't mean I'm stewpid!" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad47 0 #15 December 27, 2003 Nice checklist The only I would do differenly is cocking PC before you flake the canopy and put in into d-bag. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdthomas 0 #16 December 28, 2003 Cross country Packing can freak you out, listen to Bigun and rigger rob for good advice. I say wad it up, throw it in the bag and support your local rigger! or send it to me for a repack I need the cash. JTwww.greenboxphotography.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ernokaikkonen 0 #17 December 28, 2003 Quote5 major points to any pack job 1. lines straight 2. brakes set 3. slider up 4. rubber bands tight around lines 5. bridle routed straight from pin to handle Everything else is a minor point. I'd add to number 2: 2. brakes set & slider uncollapsed & PC cocked I do all three at the same time before starting the actual packjob. Missing any one has the potential of ruining your day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sid 1 #18 December 28, 2003 http://www.sidsrigging.com/Articles/packing/packing_index.htmPete Draper, Just because my life plan is written on the back of a Hooter's Napkin, it's still a life plan.... right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skymick 0 #19 December 28, 2003 OK I got one problem with the pro packing check list. You have the PC cocked after the canopy in the D-bag, does'nt this mean that some of the canopy can be pinched by the bridle/rapide link inside the D-bag if the kill line inside the D-bag happens to grab some material when it is pulled through the bridle and cause it to rip the canopy on deployment? Would'nt it be better to cock the PC either when you uncollapse the slider or lay the canopy down before bagging it? I have seen this happen myself, someone cocked the PC after bagging the canopy..after he got down found out that there was a 10cm tear in the top skin of the canopy. Anyone want to confirm/clarify the above suggestion? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nightjumps 1 #20 December 28, 2003 I must admit to not having it in there because I have seen numerous folks "Pre-Cock" and never verify the cock after getting it in the bag. SO, I've been teaching students to ensure the kill line is centered in the D-bag prior to placing the canopy in the bag... Then you only have to cock the kill line once after the first two stows are done. However, consensus amongst my peers would dictate that I change it. I have done so, but added a "Stop Check" on the chekclist to verify the P/C has been cocked. Unfortunately, the changes and bolding of important points is greater than the 60 kb upload allowance. So here it is for you to manipulate, bold, modify, as you see fit. If you'd like version 2 in MS Word format with rows and check boxes, send me an email and I'll send it to ya: Tie 3-rings together with “Pull-up” cord Place two weights in main packing tray Brakes Stowed (Set) (Excess brake line NOT routed through risers) Slider Up and UN-collapsed Right-side toggles in Right hand/Left-side toggles in Left Hand Walk down to canopy maintaining Line Order & Line Tension Line Group Check – 1) Right front group to right front of canopy; 2) Right rear group to right rear of canopy; 3) Right brake line group to right furthest rear of canopy; 4) Left front group to left front of canopy; 5) Left rear group to left rear of canopy; 6) Left brake line group to left furthest rear of canopy. Place all line groups on right shoulder with nose to the left Count and collect nose cells (7 or 9) Grab all nose cells and punch towards center of canopy and vigorously pull left Place both hands over canopy and smooth out excess air Peek between stabilizer groups to check for line continuity NOSE – according to manufacturer or personal specs (Roll and stuff or leave alone) Place nose between legs Split line groups on either side of your head Pull slider over head across back of neck Ensure the CENTER CELL Seam runs straight down “D” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “D” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left “C” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “C” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left “B” lines on right side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the right “B” lines on left side to center cell seam and chop canopy outwards to the left Grab Right side “A” and stabilizer lines and flake out stabilizer canopy to the right Grab Left side “A” and stabilizer lines and flake out stabilizer canopy to the left Redress from top to bottom ensuring lines are along center seam and canopy is chopped outwards creating “S” folds between each line group. Bend over at the waist 90 degrees and gently release canopy Pull slider over head and quarter between line groups as deep into the canopy as possible. Pull all four lines groups off shoulders and place on right shoulder maintaining line tension to rig (milk any line slack up and down into the canopy). Re-dress all lines to center seam Find center of tail and place left hand at the bottom of all the line groups Gently pull tail up to the bottom of the slider & four line group while keeping lines down and centered with left hand GENTLY Pull tail around canopy Wrap bottom of tail TIGHTLY around the four line groups Wrap tail ends towards nose until they meet Twist & wrap top and bottom of tail together at least five times Place four line groups in right hand and wrapped tail in left hand Go down on right knee and use left forearm to gently lay parachute down Cock “Kill Line” Pilot Chute Place right knee on tail/lines and lay down on the canopy to remove excess air Redress canopy from bottom to top criss-crossing inwards until parachute width is same size as “D” bag. Lay on canopy and remove final excess air. While laying down, check deployment bag bands and orient for parachute stowing Remove weights Kneeling on right side of canopy, place “karate chop” one-third up canopy and “S” fold Straddle and maintain first “S” fold with hand Pull next third over first “S” fold creating three “S” folds Dress top of canopy into “S” folds Gently place knee on top of all “S” folds Pull “D” Bag over canopy using “Condom” method Roll bag towards lines/ rubber band through grommet and stow first line group 1.5 inches (Ensure rubber band stows are tight) Rubber band through second grommet and stow second line group 1.5 inches STOP Re-Cock or verify kill-line parachute or Pull standard pilot chute bridle grommet to grommet Continue “S” folding lines approximately 1.5 inches until there is ~18” of suspension line Place bag in main pack tray with toggles facing towards reserve container. & close tuck tabs according to manufacturer specs.. Place excess suspension line in a “V” at a 45 degree angle towards bottom of pack tray while holding the bag by the bridle above the pack tray. Place D-bag in main pack (straight up & down or down and rotate according to manufacturer) Close main pack tray flaps according to manufacturer’s closing specifications Fold pilot chute as trained and place in BOC (if there are bulges in the BOC, use fist to flatten and check for “Monkey Fist.” Ensure bridle routed straight from pin to handle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nightjumps 1 #21 December 28, 2003 Nice job on the packing visuals, Sid. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sid 1 #22 December 28, 2003 QuoteNice job on the packing visuals, Sid. Thanks - that part of the site gets a LOT of hits!Pete Draper, Just because my life plan is written on the back of a Hooter's Napkin, it's still a life plan.... right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JennyB 0 #23 December 29, 2003 You know this may be scary, but i had about 30 jumps and i had a wonderful jumpmaster spend about an hour teaching me to pack (or did he do it because of the short shorts?) anyhow,i couldn't get it in the bag because i bought a brand new canopy. (the experienced jumpers were trash packing my canopy- they could hardly get it in the d-bag) so i took it home and cussed and fought and got it in the bag.Next day i jumped it! and noone watched me pack it. What a freak i was! Me and another guy who was learning to pack was deciding what we were going to do after we cut away our main " do we chase it down or come back to the D.Z. then go get it?" Someone heard us and said " that has to be one of the craziest dirt dives i ever heard!" thank goodness both of our canopies opened. I figured i had a reserve.....crazy- i know better now.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jumpinjackflash 0 #24 December 31, 2003 Exactly, one more thing though Kai... I slipped our packer "the fee" and, I video taped him packing too. I spent the other nite, at home (8 weeks later), packing my rig and going step by step through what my packer had taught me. Play, Rewind, Stop, FFwd... Very cool truly. jus my two cents. JackIt's a gas, gas, gas... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auryn 0 #25 December 31, 2003 one note on the checklist that I saw, and riggers correct me if I am wrong (this is a minor point) the checklist recommends to cock the PC after the canopy is in the bag. I have been told that doing this can cause excess wear on the topskin of the canopy and even wear a hole in it. anyone with more experience on this one ? Blue Ones ! D 27808 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
