2 2
IanHarrop

ISO instructions for making tube stows

Recommended Posts

I've heard of people making their own tube stows and since availability of quality rubber bands is now an issue, I'm hoping someone can post detailed instructions on how to make standard size tube stows. Yes I know they can be purchased but I'm curious. 

I've done a search of the forums and did not find details like:

  • what tubing to use
  • diameter of the tubing
  • length to cut to for each stow
  • how much overlap of the tube is recommended
  • what glue if any should be used.

I've probably missed something important that needs to be considered.

Is anyone out there making their own tube stows and willing to share details?

Edited by IanHarrop

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have a good answer, but have some partial ones:

1) The new dropzone.com removed the old photo attachments, so I won't even bother to try to find the original post. But way back in 2012 I copied a post on here by Gabor Szelei.   I've put it into a Word file. The descriptions are rather terse so there are still some questions, but that's what I have.

2) And in 2005 I had saved this post, from Sundevil777:

Quote

 

Nov 21, 2005, 4:52 AM

Re: [popsjumper] Anatomy of a Baglock - NEW [In reply to] Quote | Reply

Actually, it doesn't shock me. Your incident reinforces my opinion that tube stows are clearly better for the middle locking stows. The old guy with the big beard thinks so too. Wink

I make my own tube stows really cheap, and make them the length that I need from the bulk silicone tubing you can find in the fishing/sporting goods section of any department store (really cheap per foot).

Use a pair of needlenose pliers to turn one end over about 5mm. Insert the closed pliers into the other end and open the pliers to expand the tubing. Now take a pair of hemostats (sp?) or similar instrument used for other purposes to grab the turned over end of the tubing and insert it into the opened end. Carefully slide the tubing off the pliers and you're done. No need to glue anything.

 

 

Tube stows - Gabor Szelei 2012.docx

Edited by pchapman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i made a dozen last night.  took almost an hour and a half to figure out how to make the first one, then 11 in half an hour.  the trick is to use the hemos to hold the outside edge of the tube that isn't folded back and press it inside the hole and hold it while wrapping it with the fold.  if you don't let them open enough it starts to pull the tube out.  two sets of hemos would be easier than one and the needle nosed pliers i was using.  i hope to get down and change them out and test them to see if they work today.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, sfzombie13 said:

i made a dozen last night.  took almost an hour and a half to figure out how to make the first one, then 11 in half an hour.  the trick is to use the hemos to hold the outside edge of the tube that isn't folded back and press it inside the hole and hold it while wrapping it with the fold.  if you don't let them open enough it starts to pull the tube out.  two sets of hemos would be easier than one and the needle nosed pliers i was using.  i hope to get down and change them out and test them to see if they work today.

It seems like my instructions are the opposite of the word document.  I put the rolled up side into the other.  The result is a larger diameter at the junction, which gets placed at the base of the lark's head knot when installed.  It is a bit bulky, but doesn't bother me. No need for glue when there is so little tension when installed.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i didn't look at the word document and my way looks easier.  i took some pictures and made my own guide.  i didn't glue anything and haven't tested them yet.  if anyone sees anything potentially dangerous let me know please. 

i'm calling them tim stows.

 

tim-stow-instructions.docx

Edited by sfzombie13
named them

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
47 minutes ago, sfzombie13 said:

i didn't look at the word document and my way looks easier.  i took some pictures and made my own guide.  i didn't glue anything and haven't tested them yet.  if anyone sees anything potentially dangerous let me know please. 

i'm calling them tim stows.

 

tim-stow-instructions.docx 3.46 MB · 0 downloads

Thanks Tim. The details and pictures help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Made my first 12 Tim-Stows B)

To be cautious, I have kept my 4 locking stows as good old Keener rubber bands but the other 8 stows have been changed. I'll probably do a hop and pop, look for anything I notice either during the opening or inspection after the jump before I consider changing my locking stows.

Much thanks!

Ian

IMG_20220928_172501578.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For those resistant to using alternatives to rubber bands...have y'all ever had a had to replace a rubber band at a center locking stow location?  Did it break while the lines were getting pulled free (no harm if it breaks then) or did it break long before line stretch?  When they d-bag is accelerated upwards, when you absolutely do not want a locking stow to break, the Newton's 2nd law force from the hunk of nylon inside is focused on breaking that/those critical center locking stows. where all that force gets concentrated.  A substantial portion of nasty hard openings may be due to this.

The critical middle locking stows are the only location where I've used tube stows for 30 or so years. It isn't practical to double stow so the bite goes relatively deep.  Regular bands do so much better for the outer 2 locking stows on my 4 grommet d-bag and the non-locking stows.  The tandem mfgs obviously do not trust regular or even the super wide/thick tandem rubber bands alone for critical locking stows.  The risk for the tandems is more severe because of the much heavier mass inside the d-bag, but the point still remains for smaller canopies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
(edited)

I made a few jumps using my newly made tube stows. The first was with rubber bands for the locking stows but tube stows on all the others and then a hop and pop with tube stows for the locking stows as well. I could see no issues so I made a couple of jumps from the top with everything as tube stows. They worked great.

On the plus side I liked how they performed and I liked the tension they provide when double wrapped. On the down side I am looking to add glue to the joints. Over the four jumps so far with them I had two of them separate while packing.

From what I've found online rubber cement appears to be the glue to use with latex tubing. Thoughts or suggestions on gluing tube stows will be much appreciated.

Thanks, Ian 

 

Edited to specify rubber cement seems to be recommended for Latex tubing. From what I've read Silicone tubing is a whole different thing when it comes to adhesives.

Edited by IanHarrop

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, IanHarrop said:

I am looking to add glue to the joints. Over the four jumps so far with them I had two of them separate while packing.

Never needed glue.  Did you try inserting the turned-back end into the other end?  Doesn't need to be inserted as far as your pics show you doing.  A bit bigger in dia than yours, but the overlapped section is shorter and fits at the base of the larkshead well.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/3/2022 at 11:20 AM, IanHarrop said:

I made a few jumps using my newly made tube stows. The first was with rubber bands for the locking stows but tube stows on all the others and then a hop and pop with tube stows for the locking stows as well. I could see no issues so I made a couple of jumps from the top with everything as tube stows. They worked great.

On the plus side I liked how they performed and I liked the tension they provide when double wrapped. On the down side I am looking to add glue to the joints. Over the four jumps so far with them I had two of them separate while packing.

From what I've found online rubber cement appears to be the glue to use with latex tubing. Thoughts or suggestions on gluing tube stows will be much appreciated.

Thanks, Ian 

 

Edited to specify rubber cement seems to be recommended for Latex tubing. From what I've read Silicone tubing is a whole different thing when it comes to adhesives.

question on the tube stows:  are they working good?  i won't use mine because they aren't as grippy as real ones.  i just got a chance to get to the dz yesterday to try them out.  we tested the breaking strength and holding the seam, it went to 12 lbs and about a foot of stretch and didn't break.  then he got out a real tube stow and we found it was slick as hell in comparison.  i can't seem to find a silicone tubing supply easily.  that's all food grade stuff  and i'd hate to buy another bunch of the wrong stuff.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So far I am pleased with them. I probably only have a dozen jumps on them but they seem to be holding up well..  They certainly stretch very wellB)

I double stow everything. Recently I pulled open a pack job and watched how things deployed. It appeared to be the same as if I was using rubber bands.

It's the end of the season here. Local DZs are now closed so I won't get any more jumps on them this year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

2 2